Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
March 8th 2021Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
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Very well fitted, just as well if not better (at least on me). They have fewer hand-sewn details as standard, and usually don't do extended waistbands etc, but they can do those too. I find I prefer a cleaner, well-made ...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
January 4th 2021Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aware of when this undermining s...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
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Funnily enough I got turn ups on my pair and then ended up having them removed as I preferred the natural folding up also. Firstly because I like to wear quite a cropped trouser normally and I didn't get the turn up quit...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
December 30th 2020We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
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The other model I’m considering from them is the IH727, which is a bit wider in the hem (7.8” for a 32), it’s a little more tapered at the knee than I’d ideally like and is a different lighter weight cloth (also ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
December 11th 2020The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
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Best suggestion is spencers trousers in Yorkshire. Made to order service. If you have a pair of trousers that fit well you can measure them to ensure a good fit. Very good quality trousers in a large variety of clothes. ...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I’ve been buying trousers and other items from them every season. I simply love the wool trousers they offer. Every single pair fits as perfectly as RTW can be on my body, and I have no complaints against the quality. ...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
October 21st 2020Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
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OK thanks Alex, will do. And yes you could....
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
August 3rd 2020Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not an easy thing to describe. Par...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
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…and no one has complimented you for one of the best photo captions ever?...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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Oh good. Helps when you've been there!...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
January 20th 2020This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
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I've never had that with the front fastening on my trousers, Lindsay. To be honest that sounds like it might be down to the cheapness of the make (the hardware, but also the structure in the waistband). On the side adjus...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
January 6th 2020Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
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No, sorry. Any alterations tailor would do. Ideally they'd have some experience with Italian style jackets, but chances are they will given the volume of Italian RTW out there...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
December 20th 2019I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
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Thanks Lukasz, and yes good points...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
November 18th 2019Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
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Thanks, Simon. Your responses always really help my choices....
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
November 4th 2019Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
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I can't remember but I'd guess left-hand. Denser, stronger chinos aren't really what Anglo does...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
September 30th 2019This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics. Available in the men...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
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I think it's probably best that you make sure customers aren't buying them tight, and look after them well - that they know those are delicate cloths...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
June 12th 2019Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
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I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
June 3rd 2019Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
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Yes I would, either...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
May 1st 2019A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last wee...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
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They're nice - I wouldn't tuck in, as you say, but nice otherwise. And they're wide but you can always slim them down if you want to later...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Probably, yes, aside from vintage versions...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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If you haven't already, can I recommend Aero Leather in Galashiels as a place to try out a bespoke-style experience for leather jackets. They have a wide array of leathers - their double-sided goat suede is particularly ...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
November 28th 2018Several readers commented on the post highlighting pieces from No Man Walks Alone that articles on other shops would be helpful, if objective and analytical. If there’s any area that needs this most, it’s trousers. Once men find a model...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
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It's probably tightness across the seat and hips Jonny, it usually is with me. But you're right that it's often not a good idea to try and diagnose it yourself - leave it to a good alterations tailor...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
October 29th 2018It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
October 10th 2018A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
