The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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Hi Matej, the morning dress looks very nice. I am from Vienna and have been struggling to find an affordable yet non-standard morning dress myself. Any chance I might connect with your tailor? I would not mind the travel...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
May 11th 2022When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
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Well, the canvas is certainly cut on the bias, yes, but I can't say I've noticed any more difference compared to other Savile Row houses...
This feels like me
May 2nd 2022I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
April 29th 2022A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
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Presuming you're sitting down Mike, undo the jacket...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
April 20th 2022It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
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Thank you for pointing out carrier company. The jacket was not for me but I came across the fisherman’s jumper. A robust navy roll neck with raglan sleeves - I has been looking for one like this with raglan sleeves for...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
April 13th 2022I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
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Not really, no, the ribbing would be difficult to get off and on again. Or at least, it would be a big job...
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
April 6th 2022Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
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Hey, Sure, happy to. A high collar at the back of the jacket is sometimes incorporated as a nice tailoring touch, and complimentary to a higher shirt collar. You see some bespoke tailors, like Anderson & Sheppard, favour...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
March 30th 2022This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
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Thanks! Indeed not perhaps the best choice for this but was considering to get one of their horsehide jackets some day. Glad to hear good things about them....
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
February 25th 2022Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
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Hi Everybody, I wasn’t go to join this discussion but feel I may need to dip my toes in the water. Firstly some of the most durable and best made jackets Belstaff ever made actually came out in the 1990’s/early 2000â...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
February 23rd 2022This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
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I think you've hit the nail on the head there Nico - it's almost entirely associations, rather like other rural things like bright-red trousers and tweed caps....
Reader profile: Daniel
February 14th 2022Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...
Reader profile: Daniel
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I like that look as well. However, what colour are the trousers - dark navy, dark brown, dark green? Surprisingly difficult to tell from the photos....
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
February 9th 2022I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upsi...
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
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Yes I'd certainly wear an Oxford like that with it, though probably not with loafers...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
February 7th 2022By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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I am in the market for an unstructured jacket, largely as part of my work wardrobe. I have come across this which I think looks great and ticks a lot of my boxes. Expensive though. As a relative novice, I would be gratef...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
January 31st 2022I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
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Many thanks for that. I'm currently wearing in my new G&G Regent shoes MTO and I tell you, they are a pretty TIGHT fit but already mellowing. Leather stretches afrer all. Should be OK. Tony measured me after all....
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
January 19th 2022Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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yes...
Reader profile: Mattia
January 17th 2022I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
December 22nd 2021Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
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An overshirt is just a shirt, but a shirt in a heavier material and perhaps with pockets, such that it doesn't look too flimsy 'over' something else. A work jacket will probably be in a much tougher material, shorter and...
Reader profile: Ben
December 10th 2021I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
November 3rd 2021Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
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Blimey. Yes I think you're right Markus, and it's very interesting to hear that journey. It's why I think what I've called ' casual chic' is so practical a lot of the time - it's less about whether you wear chinos or not...
Reader Profile: Andrew
October 27th 2021This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...
Reader Profile: Andrew
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I also used to wear Malle Cologne Indelebile in the summer quite frequently. I liked it because it is light and citrusy which I think it nice for the summer. But I finished the bottle and never got around to replacing it...
The jackets I picked for winter
October 20th 2021A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
October 13th 2021This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
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Hey Andy, I think this could look really nice at a wedding, yes. Not too business-y. Do have a look at our articles on wedding attire here though. Unlike a lot of events, the dress code is really driven by the bride's fa...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
October 4th 2021Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
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Yes, we're having something made at the moment...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
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I see. To be honest I'm not sure size is a great indicator of that either - you only have to look at Michael Browne, one of the smallest but with a really strong reputation. Equally Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, whom I really ...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
September 17th 2021I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
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I measure a size 39, normally take a 40, and bought a medium. It does say so in the comments above by the way - I know there's a lot of them, but if you do a 'Find in page' search for the word 'size' or something, you'd ...
