Introducing: The Cashmere Rugby
December 8th 2021*UPDATE: We have confirmed a re-stock for January - including the XL that has sold out. So do use the form on the Shop site to be added to the waiting list for that* In our article a couple of weeks ago about the new shearling colour , there was a r...
Introducing: The Cashmere Rugby
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Amazing, thanks Guy, that's so nice to hear. And absolutely, should definitely do something specifically about Dad outfits!...
Why does good knitwear pill?
November 22nd 2021Nobody wants pilling, so if your jumper pills it must be a sign of poor quality, right? Not necessarily. Finer, more luxurious knitwear is more delicate and takes more looking after. If you don’t care for it, it might pill more t...
Why does good knitwear pill?
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interesting article. I would like to contribute: I once had a conversation with Mr P.L.L-P., Loro Piana's vice-president and an absolute expert on textiles. He told me that there are two fibres that have reduced quality ...
Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Ci...
November 8th 2021One of the good things about writing about caring for clothes, is that it spurs me to be better at it myself. I’m not too bad at most things, by the standards of Permanent Style. I brush and put cream on my shoes; I steam and brush my suits (...
Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Ci...
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I think you're probably right John, though it's a little hard to be sure as I've never tried either solution. Do let me know which you try and how it works!...
The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and c...
October 18th 2021One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In our first chapter of...
The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and c...
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I haven't had one, but I'd assume that, yes. Personally also, if I'm getting something from PL I'd go for a more unusual design, less of a basic....
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
October 11th 2021This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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No, they're a 2-ply which is standard yarn for this kind of polo knit. You could wear over a shirt or instead of one. However, they are different to a Smedley or a PS polo, which use much finer merino yarn. This is expla...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
October 6th 2021*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk about this one - worn for a rec...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
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I think Colhay's and LF might be too thin on their own as an outer layer, as you say. The Rubato style can look great with a roll neck, if the length suits the trousers you wear and so on. I wouldn't have any concerns th...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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Good point, and no, not particularly I'm afraid. I find a similar issue, and often narrow the body but have the same issue with the collar....
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
August 27th 2021As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style. It deserves proper...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
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I’ve seen a lovely looking John Laing sweater that’s 1ply at a cost of 575 Euros. This seams really expensive for 1ply. Love to get people’s thoughts on this?...
Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...
June 4th 2021Somehow, Jake and Anglo-Italian manage to keep relatively under the radar here in the UK, despite being one of the few classic-menswear shops keeping that spirit relevant. Perhaps it’s because they don’t actively seek out mainstream cov...
Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...
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Cheers Alex. I don't have the Alden LHS in cordovan, but I take 9.5 in the ones I have in suede, Van last...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
May 19th 2021This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
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The reason they behave differently is nearly entirely the material Noel, with the Finest Polo being stiffer from the twisted yarn. We are making a small change to the collar on the Dartmoor to do something similar, but i...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
May 14th 2021I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
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Not off the top of my head Shem, no...
Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere
May 3rd 2021In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on the process later, but today I wanted to...
Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere
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Hello Lu, Could you by any chance name the ones in Turin?...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Sure, it's here Henry...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
March 31st 2021Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
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I'm not sure to be honest Mullinan, as I prefer ones without colours really, like this or the Rubato version. If I were going to have colours, I'd probably go with dark and simple, like navy and green perhaps....
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
March 17th 2021Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
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I sized up slightly, because they are quite slim....
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
February 15th 2021The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
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60s Knitwear Polos…I can recommend Scott Frazier from UK and especially Connecion Knitwear from Italy...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
February 8th 2021When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
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Nothing's manufactured in Mongolia, that's where the cashmere is sourced from. As with everyone - except Loro Piana are pretty much the only one to do the sourcing themselves...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
January 20th 2021This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
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I wear the black under dark brown tweed, yes, and under greys sometimes as well as under dark olive. Navy is surprisingly tricky, and is mostly under navy and dark cold brown as you say. And navy suits, as here Of course...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
December 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
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I don't think the two are that comparable because the PS Rugby is that much thicker. I'd still take a 40 most of the time in the Colhays...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I’ve been buying trousers and other items from them every season. I simply love the wool trousers they offer. Every single pair fits as perfectly as RTW can be on my body, and I have no complaints against the quality. ...
The mock neck
November 20th 2020I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...
The mock neck
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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
October 12th 2020Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
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If anything I think it's easier on heavier knits André, harder on finer ones. I've hand sewn up the edges of a thicker one, but you can't get away with anything on a fine knit, it all shows. To alter any knitwear proper...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
October 5th 2020I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
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Knitted ties don't really vary much in quality, just type (thicknesses of silk, wool etc)...
