Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
Match in comments:
Sure, it's here Henry...
The Italian handmade shirt
April 26th 2021Many countries still make shirts by hand, including in Spain with the likes of Burgos and, further afield, someone like 100 Hands in India. But it is Italy that has really kept the flame alive. Indeed, it’s one of the most most surpr...
The Italian handmade shirt
Match in comments:
Sure, that's Wil Whiting. His work is superb...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
Match in comments:
Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
My shirt collars
January 27th 2021When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...
My shirt collars
Match in comments:
If that were the issue, you'd probably have to replace the collar Stephan, I don't think you could just take the fusing out...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
January 18th 2021At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually throwing on a mix of ...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
Match in comments:
I think it is a little culturally specific as well Joe - at a big law firm or bank in London it might not seem quite right. Plus of course it helps if it's a finer oxford, not unlined and so on...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
January 1st 2021The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term – as a piece t...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
Match in comments:
My wife(who knows these things) pointed out this blog. It gives a little of the history of madras before Brooks Brothers. https://blog.marasim.co/fascinating-madras-checks-fabric/...
New Friday Polos – black and green (and men...
December 28th 2020Shipping and production have not been entirely straightforward in recent weeks, as anyone following the chaotic clash of Covid and Brexit in the UK will be aware. But I’m glad to say we've been able to restock the Friday Polos - still the mos...
New Friday Polos – black and green (and men...
Match in comments:
I haven't, sorry John, but yes that's a nice idea for a future piece...
Shirt style: Structure and lining, types and trad...
December 4th 2020The next stage in our Guide to Shirts – after the recent pieces on collars and cuffs – is to compare different approaches brands take to the styles of their shirts. There are a few different aspects of this, including:...
Shirt style: Structure and lining, types and trad...
Match in comments:
Nice to hear Peter, thanks...
Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)
November 13th 2020A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful than some people realise, parti...
Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)
Match in comments:
Jackson, Simon, I'll chime in if I may. I've had a fair few Merz B sweatshirts in a range of colours. I still enjoy wearing them, however some have stretched a bit too much and have been relegated to 'work around the hou...
Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns
October 7th 2020With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly those bold patterns tha...
Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns
Match in comments:
I'm not sure I can imagine that looking good I'm afraid, unless it was a very 80s style...
The Guide to Shirt Cuffs
September 14th 2020This is the second in our series looking at style aspects of shirts. As with the previous one – on shirt collars – it will focus on sensible advice, rather than illustrating the myriad gimmicks with which menswear seems...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
Match in comments:
I haven't tried it, but yes it would...
The guide to shirt collars – and what suits...
August 31st 2020With the slow disappearance of the tie from the male wardrobe, the shirt collar has become increasingly important. It now bears almost sole responsibility for framing and flattering the face. However, guides to shirt collars – s...
The guide to shirt collars – and what suits...
Match in comments:
Ah, I see Amrinder. If it's that kind of smart event then a button down shirt is not really ideal. But it sounds like there's not much you can do about it...
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
August 10th 2020What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be good to focus on what customers...
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
Match in comments:
Yes certainly, and the other colours apart from perhaps black. Do have a look at the ensemble yourself though (in a mirror or laid out on a bed) and see which you like together the most...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
Match in comments:
Sure Chris. It's not something I wear outside of the house - but I presume that's what you mean? I wear Belgian loafers, or Sagans, but not really slippers...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Match in comments:
Oh good. Helps when you've been there!...
The cream shirt
May 11th 2020There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...
The cream shirt
Match in comments:
Love a cream shirt, moreso an off-white/ivory shirt with just a hint of yellowing, I've heard the terms used interchangeably. Great for when I'm not sure if I want a white or blue shirt. People say cream shirts work bett...
Introducing: The Madras linen
March 13th 2020There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...
Introducing: The Madras linen
Match in comments:
Yes, we have reordered it so it should be in fairly soon. As ever, waiting list with the support team is the best way to get first notification...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
January 13th 2020On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
Match in comments:
How lovely to hear Markus, I hope it serves you really well...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
January 3rd 2020I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cor...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
Match in comments:
In that respect yes, though the colour would make a big difference as well obviously...
The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting
November 29th 2019I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works. Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmaker, despite only four years sin...
The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting
Match in comments:
I really can't say, given I haven't had anything made particularly. I can only speak to the work involved...
The polo shirt under knitwear
November 27th 2019I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
Match in comments:
Spread. I find it sits better myself...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
October 23rd 2019Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to a...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
Match in comments:
I haven't seen that one in person. It looks nice though...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
October 9th 2019Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recently commented that it would be...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
Match in comments:
No, I haven't asked in a while I'm afraid, or had something made. You'd be better off asking him...