The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe.
The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look; and dark brown is probably the most versatile of colours.
Designs like Valstar's 'Valstarino' jacket (shown here) are also helped by their button front (rather than zipped) and neat little pockets.
This post is intended to show how such a blouson can sit at the centre of a capsule wardrobe, with various other pieces rotating around it.
So we have three looks, all featuring the Valstarino but with different sets of shirt, trousers and shoes.
There are grades of formality (largely driven by the trousers and shoes) but most of the pieces can be worn in any combination.
You might shy away from trainers with flannels, or denim shirt with jeans, but the polo shirt could be worn with any of the three pairs of trousers, the chinos with any of the three shirts, and so on.
Versatility is the key to any capsule wardrobe, and these pieces are as versatile as it gets.
Outfit 1. My bespoke jeans from Levi's (mid-rise, Cone Mills denim) with a chambray shirt and cordovan shoes.
The shirt is the dressiest of the three. Even though it's chambray, it is the fine, dressy kind of chambray offered by most of the shirting mills, and is still quite smart.
The shoes are my Edward Green Windermeres - although the last time I had them resoled, I had the welt replaced and the double sole reduced to one, so they are a little smarter than the standard model.
I like the outfit as it is, but you can easily see how a navy polo could be worn instead of the shirt, or trainers on the feet.
Outfit 2. Beige Incotex chinos (via Trunk) worn with a navy Friday Polo and my much-worn Common Projects.
Beige is a great trouser colour, equally at home with brown, green or navy, and you can see how these chinos could work with any of the other shoes in the other outfits.
The Valstarino, by the way, is a size 40 slim fit, with a wool lining for winter.
Outfit 3. Rather smarter. Grey-flannel trousers with a denim shirt and Edward Green Dovers in the company's (relatively) new redwood colour.
The shoes and trousers elevate this combination into something smarter; but the shoes could also be worn with either the chinos or the denim, smartening up each.
The denim shirt is the most casual piece in the outfit, but if it were swapped for the chambray the whole would actually be quite smart.
If I were to take this exercise a step further, it would be to suggest a jacket as an alternative to the Valstarino - perhaps a brown or navy tweed.
That addition would create an extremely versatile capsule wardrobe.
Hopefully a post readers will find useful, given comments on Wednesday's anniversary post.
Valstarino jackets available in the UK at Drake's, Fenwick's and Mr Porter among others.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Excellent post yet again Simon, thank you.
Do you use any flannel trouser which are not bespoke, and where do you get them?
All the ones I’ve seen around, Drakes, NoManWalksAlone, etc seems pretty lightweight, 11 oz at most, if the weight is given at all.
Regards.,
Casper
Yes, most are pretty lightweight unfortunately. Plenty of comment on places to get RTW ones on the flannel piece on Monday
Nice outfit suggestions Simon! However, I’m not too keen on the way the colour of the shoes and jacket clash in outfit 3. Or is that just do to the lighting in the photograph?
I don’t think they clash really – are you referring to a contrast in colour? Generally, the important thing is making sure the shoe is at least as dark as the trouser, which we have here I think
It’s the difference in warmth of brown I think, if that makes sense. The jacket is a bit cooler in shade than the shoes, which are warmer and more reddish brown (love that colour by the way). Anyway, both go well with the trousers!
Very useful indeed. I own an unlined Valstarino in the more classic midbrown, which I expect to be wearing more frequently again come Spring with this additional set of inspiration.
I’ve always liked the idea of a suede blouson jacket and yours looks great but how do these react to the inevitable rain (in London at least)?
I am reminded of the classic Seinfeld episode on the subject which is ruined by the rain as he is unwilling to reverse it to reveal the loud lining….
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXdNgO94rKQ
Suede’s sensitivity to rain is a bit exaggerated. You wouldn’t go out in pouring rain (you’d have an umbrella – it’s not a waterproof) but in most rain it’s fine, particularly dark colours. Just make sure to let it dry naturally, then brush up the nap afterwards with a dry sponge
By the way, just watched the whole episode – thought I’d seen them all but somehow missed one of the best menswear ones! Thanks
Valstar is a superb line. That brown suede model you’re wearing is fantastic.
Simon
Do you think a navy tweed would work with jeans?
If the tweed is navy, and so pretty dark, and the jeans not a dark indigo, then yes. In other words, like any sports jacket/trouser combination, as long as there is enough contrast between top and bottom
Great Post. Thank you. I love the pictures.
May I ask about the cloth for the trousers? Bunch? Weight?
Many thanks.
The flannels? Fox, 11oz, made by Anderson & Sheppard
Thank you!
Hi Simon, I believe you are familiar with the PWVC suede bomber jacket. Having tried both (Valstarino and PWVC) I really prefer the PWVC: better fit (slimmer) and more versatile. What’s your opinion. The only reason I would go for the Valstarino is price and the fact that it’s somehow an iconic piece. Thanks!
The PWVC will be slightly better quality in some ways, eg the leather ribbing. But more important is the style – the zip front, fold-down collar and slanted pockets will all make it look more casual and and a different cut and look
Simon, I’ve had a look at the other Levi’s posts but couldn’t find it. Was wondering what the rise is for your mid rise denim. 10.5? Do any of the vintage 501s come close to the fit of your bespoke denim? Or Albam for that matter.
11.5 at the front, 13.5 at the back.
No, no other denim fits at all closely, but that’s a matter of my own physiognomy, rather than anything to do with style
Thanks Simon, I can understand why you like your bespoke pair. Almost impossible to find a 11+ inch rise with such a slim leg. I take it the hem is about 15”. Have a nice holiday.
Chris – Would recommend looking at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to find what you’re after. They’ve got a really great range of classic fits, are really quite special in make, and are relatively reasonably priced (at least compared to the Japanese brands they are competing with).
Worth trying them on if you can get to their London factory though – they run very large and the online fit photos are a bit misleading… My “E8″s fit like the photo of the “NW1″s – despite having sized down 2 waist sizes.
Looks promising, thanks
I’ve seen you outside that cafe a few times, looks cool. Might I ask the name?
Comptoir cafe – opposite Thom Sweeney bespoke
Great post! Unusual to see you thus often in casual outfits 🙂
I am wondering how the PS follower will be dressed at Christmas…for me it will be classic, flannel suit (dark grey or chalkstriped navy), pale blue or white shirt with elegant neckwear….and handkerchief
Great question. It might also be interesting to give some context with each outfit (with your chalkstripe navy suit option, it sounds like a formal affair…)
I’ll be going for navy flannels (with cuffs), pale blue oxford shirt and grey Luca Faloni cable knit sweater – with burgundy slippers (I’m at home in the country with the folks).
Wishing a very Merry Christmas to all fellow PS followers – and to Simon in particular (along with thanks for another year of much valued and enjoyable content).
Christmas is not quite formal but I like to celebrate it…I will be with my family and my family in law and we will have a perfect dinner after church!
Have a merry christmas!
A much more casual affair at my house with some friends. Not sure yet exactly what I’ll wear but it will likely feature my selvedge jeans and knitwear.
Temperatures here in western Canada are forecast to drop to -25 C in the next few days so sweaters will be a staple this Christmas.
I was wearing a white OCBD, light/mid-grey flannels a santa red chunky shawl cardigan and my dark brown B&L Sagans.
Simon,
This piece kind of feels like those paid for pieces that Bruce Boyer and others do for Drake’s (for example). Were you in any way paid / compensated to do this piece?
Thanks,
S
No
The Levi’s look great with that ‘fade’ and those ‘whiskers’ please tell me you haven’t washed them yet?
No, they’ve been washed about three times (I have had them three and a half years). I didn’t wash them for the first 6 months of wear, though, which is what helped a lot with the fade
Hi Simon,
Firstly, love reading your posts and have been an avid reader of the site for some time.
I’ve been eyeing up this jacket for a while now. You mention you are wearing the jacket with a wool liner.
Is the wool liner bought separately?
Also if interested in the PWVC collaboration Trench, still available to place order?
Best regards,
No, it’s not removable.
The trench is available in S and L from me. For other sizes youd have to check with Private White
How close-fitting are those chinos? It’s somewhat striking that the contours of your right hand and even fingers are clearly visible behind the pocket.
Only moderately I’d say. The slim fit is a lot tighter
The chino/sock/trainer combo doesn’t work. The socks are wrong and look too dull and formal with this mix. Burgundy/scarlet/canary yellow would give much more interest.
Hey Simon,
Great post – definitely along the same lines that were discussed in the comments section of yesterday’s post.
Quick question that I was hoping you could weigh in on. Concerning the chinos, I’ve noticed several makers now using elastene in their cotton twill. Do you prefer this or do you stick with 100% cotton?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
I don’t mind a little elastane if it’s a close-fitting trouser, rather than a more straight, tailored one. As little as possible though
Thanks Simon for your feedback. In regards to quality, do you feel like it’s a positive, negative, or a wash (pun intended)?
Thanks again for humoring me.
Quality can mean lots of different things. It might not quite breath as well, it might not hold a crease if you want that, but it will also bag out and become shapeless less. I wouldn’t worry about it
Have you tried Levi’s 1954 version of the 501? I bet that model is a similar fit to your bespoke pair for those who aren’t ready to go out and go full bespoke.
I think I have, but it’s been a while. I’ll make sure to do so next time I’m there. Thanks
Regarding the suede-and-rain issue — do you recommend treating the Valstarino with a waterproofer, like the Saphir super invulner spray?
Yes, I would give it a light spray before you wear it, and then every few months or so. Waterproofing sprays are also quite good for cleaning suede – spray a little odd and wipe it off with a scrap piece of suede ideally, or a sponge
Hey Simon!
I’ve been a reader for quite some time now, but this is my first comment on your site.
Great article about the Valstarino! I’ve acquired the Drake’s version last spring and I wore it nearly everyday throughout spring and early autumn. In fact, your article about your tobacco suede blouson was the ignition for me to get one too. That being said, I probably wouldn’t go for a light colored version like the Drake’s, but non the less, i consider it one of my best acquirements in recent years.
Regards, Marc
… wouldn’t go for a light colored version like the Drake’s AGAIN …
That makes more sense, sorry for the missing word in the first post.
Thanks for the post. The quality is superb ; I tried the lighter brown one at Drake’s and loved it in a flash of a second and yes bought it too !! If its not a trouble can you wear it with various outfits as well !! Your blog upgraded my taste and although I didn’t go bespoke yet but at least I am fully aware of it now and started to build a wardrobe from the likes of Drake’s etc !!
Hello Simon ,
Will the unlined version jacket be too much warm to wear during summer ?
It depends where you live… in the UK, no.
Simon
Forgive me, but if you’re wearing a beanie, it’s supposed to cover your ears.
Merry Christmas.
Happy to disagree. I prefer this in terms of style – it looks much neater – and my ears don’t get cold.
Happy Christmas too
I’m living in Singapore . Average weather is at 30 degree
Too hot for it most of the year then I’m.afraid
Love the post, I’ve seen this online and you’ve convinced me to get on. In the valstarino, would you size up or down?
Up, on balance. I wear a 40 and I’m between a 40 and 38 in jackets
Hello Simon,
could you tell us (me) how tall you are? So that I can estimate which size would suit me.
Would be very helpful.
Thank you (for your help and your nice article) and merry Christmas.
Jeldrik
6 foot. Thanks
Hey Simon- I really love the website and I particularly enjoyed this article. I like the versatility of the suede bomber and one has been on my to buy list.
Can you comment on the versatility of another dark suede color, such as army green?
Thanks!
Dark green would be very versatile as well
Hi Simon, compliments of the season. I was wondering if you’d be doing the permanent style trench coat again. I couldn’t afford it when it came out initially, now that I can, my size (44) IS is no longer in stock. Thanks, Simon, for your fantastic post, which have had a great effect on my style – as attested by the “Lady of the Manor” , who now hardly complains about my dressing.
Not for a while I’m afraid. It’s worth checking with Private White to see if they have any in their stock however
Many thanks. Will check with Private White.
Long time reader, but first comment
I have owned an unlined Valstarino for a about a year (in green: not the usual color, but I love it!), but I recently wear it during a party and have some stains on the arm
Would you have any advice on how to remove stains on suede?
Thank you very much
Thomas
You’ll need a specialist dry cleaner Thomas. Not much you can do yourself by the sounds of it. If you want to, though, try spraying a little suede protector on it, and then wiping off with a sponge (or better yet, a piece of scrap suede)
Thank you Simon
Hi Simon,
Out of the Valstar and Angloitalian flip bomber(which I came across from your blog)- which style do you reckon is more ‘dressy’/ versatile
The silhouette is exactly the same but just the collar is different…..so, I am now at a crossroad.
Thanks
I think the Valstar is more dressy, but I haven’t worn the AngloItalian so can’t quite comment fully there
Hi Simon, is your belt black leather in outfit 2? Would you wear anything else other than white CP’s on your feet when wearing beige trousers with the black leather belt?
I hope that makes sense.
No, it’s dark brown. I generally wouldn’t wear black with other warm, casual colours like this.
From a style point of view only the mix with chinos works as the style, colours, casualness and contemporary type are all complimentary – the other looks are too ‘first thing out of the wardrobe’ and as one reader points out the shoes don’t match. I think if you are to wear a suede jacket then suede shoes, or better, boots should be worn otherwse the two textures clash and the shiny shoes look too formal. In the chinos look you match it with matte white trainers – also good. Another commenor remarks about the beanie (aka watch cap) – they are correct – it should be worn higher at the front lower at the back… here Beckham displays correct form…
http://www.upscalehype.com/2013/05/david-beckham-wears-lanvin-contrast-collar-polo-shirt/.
When venturing outside of tailoring into street style the element of fashion begins to affect considerations of formality. Regretably, as with all things fashionable, these considerations alter with time.
Thanks.
Personally I don’t think the texture of coat and shoes need to match. The trainers themselves actually have a fair bit of shine too.
I have always worn beanies in this way and think it looks a lot smarter than the way Beckham wears his. If I wear mine like that it also looks like my bald head goes on forever!
Absolutely on casual style points – we can do what we can, but fashion is far more of an influence
Great post as always Simon. One question: if I have to buy a smart casual jacket that is shorter in length and can go with both casual and formal dressings, what will you choose? cotton ventile Harrington jacket of private white or this Valstarino suede bomber jacket? Any insights? Thanks a lot!
Probably this, just because it will be slightly more formal
“This” means harrington jacket or the suede bomber? Thanks
Sorry, the suede bomber
How would you comment on the quality of the suede of the Valstar jacket compared to other brands? I was looking into getting a suede jacket and I’ve been considering a few different options.
Worth having a look at the comments above – I make some comparisons there
Hi Simon,
Just wondering how you’d decide between this one and the seraphin brown suede jacket you commissioned?
Both very nice, if you were to have just one, curious as to which you think most versatile.
Great post
The Seraphin is more casual (by virtue of the cut and the zip) but higher quality suede.
They’d both be very versatile, but I guess it’s a question of what you’d want to wear them with, and how much you’d appreciate the suede quality
Hi Simon,
What is the color of shoe cream/wax that you use for polishing the redwood dovers?
Largely just tan – with a very occasional mid-brown. Mostly I’m happy with the colour and patination from EG, so I’m not looking to change it
Hi Simon,
In London, where do you have your, or where do you recommend to have, shoes resoled?
Thanks
Always take them back to the manufacturer if you can – otherwise I use Kokos and Mayfair cobblers
How high is Valstarino armhole? I usually find suede jackets has low armholes.
It’s fairly low, yes, certainly compared to tailoring – but pretty standard for any outerwear like this
Recently on shoegazing blog there was an article that it’s not the best idea to send shoes back to manufacturer, because they’ll use Goodyear machine and punch different holes in welt (4-5 resoles). It’s far better to find a good cobbler that will resole by hand using the same holes (much more resoles) but as a downside, most manufacturers won’t accept shoes thats been repaired somewhere else.
Hi Simon – are you wearing this same jacket? Dark brown, unlined? http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/valstar/dark-brown-suede-valstarino-bomber-jacket-unlined.html
Yes except mine has a wool lining
Thanks, Simon. I remember a tailor telling me that unlined jackets generally have a shorter shelf life because there is no lining to provide “support” to the actual outer material/skin (not sure if he was including leather in this, though). Is this true for something like a suede jacket? Would you consider purchasing a suede jacket that is unlined?
It will be less true of suede or leather, as they are tougher than most things a jacket would be made out of. I have several unlined suede/leather jackets
Do you find the unlined version catching on shirt fabrics? I’m thinking about unlined tweed jackets as an analogy
A little, yes, that’s inevitable with something unlined, and more of an issue with suede. But drape and clean lines are not so much of a concern as they are with tailoring.
Hello Simon,
Planning to get an unlined valstarino suede jacket which I believe it will be more practical for the Hong Kong climate.
But I am a bit afraid that as it is unlined, the inner layer will wear out after some wears.
Do you have any experience to share in this regard?
Thanks.
It won’t wear out Derek, it will just be leather you’re wearing, and it takes a huge amount to wear out that
Thanks, Simon. So you don’t see durability is concern for choosing between lined and unlined?
No
Simon–I usually have cuffs on my trousers but as chinos have their origin in army khakis, what do you think?
I wouldn’t worry about the origins here – cuffs are fine if you like the style
Hi Simon,
I am in the market for a Valstarino, the unlined version, and I am undecided between dark brown (coffee) and light brown (sandal). My first thought was to go dark, but then I tried on the sandal one and I must say it does make a lot of sense.
Considering I will be wearing it on everything, from formal to more casual attire, which colour would you advise on?
I would opt for dark brown – the only thing that would sway me towards light brown would be if I was going to wear it a lot with dark brown suede shoes
Thank you.
I have a pair of dark brown suede boots which I love in fact.
But let me reframe it: would you still go for dark brown, if you could get light brown for 30% less?
No
thank you – well solved!
Hi Simon. Would you use the Valstarino as a layering piece (i.e. underneath outerwear such as peacoat, topcoat, etc)? Or only as the outermost layer? Thanks.
Only outermost really. Particularly as you get so much friction with the suede
Hi Simon – which colour is your jacket? Are Trunk the best place to pick one up in the UK? Mr Porter only seem to have the unlined version.
Dark brown suede. Mr Porter has the broadest range I think, but i haven’t seen this lined version anywhere in the UK (I got mine in Italy)
Guessing it is a slightly different shade of this one?
https://therake.com/valstar-valstarino-chocolate-brown-suede-a1-jacket.html
Pretty much the same but with lining, yes
What is the difference between lined and unlined version? The lined version is described as “Supple, non-stretchy suede” and the unlined as “Supple, slightly stretchy suede”. Is the leather differently treated or it is just the lining that changes the characteristics?
I haven’t any difference to be honest, but it might be worth checking with the brand or the store selling them
Simon, do you think the blouson (specifically, a Valstarino) would work on a tall guy? I’m 6’4” with relatively longer legs than torso, and I’m afraid the shorter blouson may accentuate that, but would much appreciate your opinion (will try to get ahold of one and try it on soon).
Best,
Juan Huertas
The style would accentuate it a bit, yes. But really safest to try one on
Simon – could you comment on the versatility of a dark moss green Valstarino as opposed to the brown? Would you wear it with the outfits above? Thanks
Yes I would. It’s very versatile
Hi Simon! Have been following you for quite a while now, and came across this post through a comment on your Stoffa review. I was wondering based on the points of styling, quality, and price, how would you compare the Valastrino to your Stoffa flight jacket that you got?
Thanks!
Hi,
The styling is quite different, and I’d say the Stoffa pieces all feel more contemporary and more unusual. So less suited to more traditional menswear, perhaps, and perhaps not quite as versatile. But they are unique and very stylish.
Quality wise, Stoffa is definitely at a higher level, which is reflected in the price. And of course Stoffa is made to measure rather than RTW
I hope that helps
Simon
Would you wear a suede jacket with suede shoes Simon? Or would that be too much suede to be in good taste?
I’d probably do it in two different suedes if I was going to, eg green suede jacket and brown suede shoes
Hi Simon – I would like to get a suede jacket – something like the Valstar, or the Purple Label one you have. I can find stocklists with the Valstar, but can’t find curent Purple Label ones that are to my liking. Any other brands you would recommend? I think Dunhill makes them as well. I also saw your review of the Craftsman Clothing M2M and the Stofa version – any M2M version you would recommend?
Valstar should certainly be the starting point. Purple Label like most designers will be rather hit and miss. Dunhill should have some, also Thom Sweeney, Anderson & Sheppard and Anglo-Italian. Anglo does an MTM, but if you like the style then the best there is probably Stoffa
Simon, belated complements on this post. (I read your website regularly but only found this one recently through a search.) I really value your suggestions on matters of: (1) the most versatile colours and styles in menswear, (2) capsule wardrobe items, (3) outfit combinations, and (4) casual and semi-formal clothing items. I’m sure many other readers do, too. Keep up the good work ‒ especially in these four areas!
I am thinking about buying a Valstarino in suede. Would you consider the “classic” brown, the dark brown or the navy one the most versatile model? I will probably not buy the classic brown as I think it is too casual for anything smarter than denim or chinos. But I have difficulties choosing between the dark brown and navy. I will probably most often have a PS oxford cloth shirt or thin knitwear under.
I’d say go for dark brown unless you will wear the jacket quite smartly, usually with flannels etc. Navy would rule out wearing it with most jeans.
Simon-
Wonderful posts. I have been hunting for a Valstar suede jacket but need a lining due to climate here. Your thoughts on waiting for a wool lining or going for goose filled suede jacket? I can’t tell if the goose filled would make it look puffy— which is not what I am going for, Thanks.
To be honest I’m not sure I’d put either inside a Valstar, unless it was pretty thin. It’s not a cold weather jacket really
Doesn’t your jacket have a wool lining?
My mushroom one doesn’t, no. I used to have a brown one with a wool lining, but I disliked the lining in the end – one reason I recommended against it here.
If you already have an olive technical jacket and natural color G9 Harrington, what’s a good last casual jacket? Dark brown suede? The Valstar looks a bit similar to the G9
Yes, I’d say dark-brown suede would be good. Maybe in a bomber style if you already have something like the Valstarino? (So zip, rounded collar etc)
Great article thankyou Simon, I’d been checking out the valstarino for some time now, including reading your articles several times..and then just this past week the rake had them 30% off! Dark brown already sold out in my size (50) so went for navy. Only concern I have is as mentioned above it’s versatility with different pants..jeans you said may not work? I was thinking though it may be ok, as I’ve found often navy sweaters/blazers/polos can look fine when wearing brown accessories. Just wondering your further thought on this..jeans and navy chinos..?
Personally I wouldn’t wear it with navy trousers, no. So not navy chinos and not dark jeans. Mid-blue jeans would be fine though.
Thankyou Simon, that makes sense, a bit too much the same tone if dark jeans or chinos. Navy seems like a nice semi-formal colour so looking forward to it
Hello Simon
Waking up an old article but I have just found your website and I love it. Very many helpful tips and good basic information.
A question, I have some C&J midbrown (“snuff suede”) chukka boots. Would that work together with the dark brown jacket?
Yes, snuff would be a nice contrast
Great post. Interesting that you said, at the end, that the EG Dovers could be worn with both the denim and chinos. Don’t you find them too formal for those trousers? I’m interested in your opinion since I am considering a pair of Dovers myself and want them to be as versatile as possible (already have a pair in dark oak which I find too dark for denim and most chinos). Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry about them being too dark, but perhaps suede would be more versatile than leather – see mine here for instance
Simon,
I’m curious about the Incotex chinos here. Are they casual enough to wear with a t-shirt and cardigan? They look like they dress up pretty well. I’m looking for a sporty chino that I can dress up or down like jeans, particularly for fall and winter, as opposed to a workwear chino (like the Army Chino Armoury sells). Thanks in advance.
Yes they’re certainly casual enough for that. They’re not smart enough to wear with a jacket I don’t think, personally (my view has changed on that a little over time) but they’re great with everything else.
These are a good ready-to-wear option, and I’d also recommend Saman Amel or Stoffa for made-to-measure ones.
Anon,
I’ve had good experiences with the fit and material from Lost Monarch chinos.
Simon, my skin complexion is medium brown (think Rishi Suniak. Will the suede colour featured above be suitable for that skin tone?
Yes, you just might need to introduce some contrast in other ways. Eg by wearing a white shirt.
Worth reading our piece on skin colour there. I always think pieces should not be taken in isolation
Hi Simon,
Noticed a few times that you rarely use dark blue for jeans and prefer to keep them light or the standard blue jeans.
You don’t feel that dark blue jeans work well or just a question of the outfits you use normally.
Thank you
I do have and like dark jeans as well Nuno. See my Levi’s here for the two I wear most. Or Blackhorse Lane here.
I find mid-blue more useful for casual clothing, and for wearing with navy on top. But that’s all.
Thank you Simon, great jeans you showed there.
Hi Simon,
I have salt and pepper hair ,i am a winter man as pointed in Colour for Men , Carole Jackson. Even though dark brown valstarino is a casual color would this color fit me better than navy? I find that navy it’s much flattering but again it’s a smart color. I want to wear the Jacket casually
I think either would work for you well – although colouring is important, it will look very different depending on what else you wear it with. The brown Valstarino with a black polo or white shirt, as opposed to a blue shirt or coloured knit, will have a very different effect.
See article here on my views on colouring along those lines
I am 65 and not really sure whether blouson jackets, like the Valstarino are suitable for the older gentleman. I have a feeling of mutton dressed up as lamb. Do you agree?
If you do what might you suggest as an alternative?
Cheers!
To be honest David, I don’t think they look like that – the risk I think is more the opposite, of them looking a little old on younger guys. They look great on older Italian gentlemen
Hi Simon, I really enjoy your articles thank you. My apologies for adding another comment querying the colour of the jacket in this article. I have been looking to purchase the dark brown myself, and found another called ‘caffe’, which appears very close but I think a touch lighter. Is that correct? Just finding it hard to tell online sorry.
No worries Alex, but I’m around I don’t know which colour that refers to
Hi Simon, curious to know your thoughts on Drake’s dark brown suede chore jacket (https://www.drakes.com/clothing/coats-and-jackets/chocolate-brown-heavyweight-suede-five-pocket-chore-jacket) as a substitute to a dark brown Valstarino?
I want a dark brown suede jacket, but can only really justify one or the other. I find myself leaning towards a chore jacket as i generally think that longer jackets are more elegant, and – especially compared to a Valstarino – better for layering. I guess a chore jacket is more casual, but i would think barely so, given that they both use suede and suede is a more casual material. And i thought it would work with casual tailoring (i.e. nothing more formal than flannels and a button-down).
Interested to know your thoughts, and if you wear chore jackets yourself.
I don’t think this is something you have commented on, but please redirect me if so!
Many thanks.
Hey John,
You’re right, it’s not something I’ve commented on, and I don’t wear. But I do think it could work nicely, for all the reasons you lay out.
I think the difference with the Valstarino would be one of just style, rather than casualness. The chore jacket will look a little more workwear, a little less Italian chic. But both are casual jackets, and I can certainly see how a longer jacket could work much better on some people.
I do wear this one from A&S a bit, in case you hadn’t seen that. It sounds like you might wear the Drake’s one similarly.
S
What do you think of Drakes’ suede chore coat? More or less versatile than the Valstarino? Do you prefer the rust or chocolate?
I like it, lovely weight to the suede. I wouldn’t say it’s more or less versatile though, just more casual. Like any kind of chore coat. The straight cut, the patch pockets etc. It’s not something that is going for elegance
Dear Simon,
What is your opinion on this season’s Valstarinos? I’ve seen a lovely Harrys Tweed and Prince of Wales one, but have my doubts about the versatility of those as they are in a clearly winter cloth.
Regards!
Personally I don’t like them in wools like that, and certainly not with checks. It feels a little gimmicky – like you’ve lifted a tailoring material and used it in something else because it’s ‘fun’
Hi Simon – Thank you for great article as always. Have you come across anything (from Valstar or otherwise) that approximates the dark brown suede Valstarino in terms of formality and versatility? I have one but my wife dislikes suede jackets generally (I haven’t yet been able to change her mind!) which limits the use cases somewhat. I figured I could sell to someone that would get more value out of it if I could find a replacement. Perhaps other readers would find a non-suede suggestion useful for other reasons also (cost, ethical considerations etc).
I’m not sure I can think of anything David, no. Going for leather rather than suede is an option, but I’d imagine your wife might have views on that too. And wool ones often look a little odd to me.
In terms of styles, there’s field jackets and work jackets, but I don’t think the formality is the same. They tend to look rather less sporty, and sometimes a little more old-fashioned. See example here.
Thank you for the response, Simon. Yes, surprisingly difficult to find a replacement – Hence your emphasis here and in other articles I suppose. Everything else I’ve seen is either less sporty or made more casual with zippers/material type. I’ve seen these cotton Valstarinos (https://cavour.co/en/product/6374/cotton-valstarino-jacket) but never in brown, and the cotton brings down the formality/versatility.
Good suggestion on the travel jacket – I’ll think about that.
No worries David. Worth checking out the articles in Wardrobe Building section of the site too for topics like this
Dear Simon, wonderful project! I need some advice for the sizing.
I’m about 5 ft 8.5 tall. My chest is 96cm and my shoulder is 44cm.
I tried size 48 of this Valstarino fully lined bomber jacket from my friends but it’s just too tight for me. I own G9 in size 40 and it’s slight loose which I can accept. (Again the 38 is too tight.)
I’m not positive about the shoulder part of the 52 and if I go for the 50 I do worry about “the tight” problem.
May I know what size you will recommend? Size 50 or 52?
Can you share your shoulder size for reference?
Thank you.
Please be aware we don’t have any more of these left at the moment (our reversible one, that is) but we are expecting some more this Spring.
I would go for a 50, if you’ve already tried this jacket and know what the fit is like as a result.
Hi Simon,
I’m looking to add a versatile outerwear piece to my casual wardrobe. I am considering an olive field jacket (something like an M-65) and a brown or tobacco suede blouson. Which one would be more useful, considering I mostly have light blue shirts and tan/blue/grey pants?
Probably I will end up buying both as I really like those styles, but, given a limited budget, I was wondering which one you would get first.
Many Thanks
AR
I’d choose between them mostly based on formality. A field jacket will be rather more casual, while the key attraction of a Valstarino is the way it can go with smarter clothes as well as casual ones. Of course, we have our own version of that, which will be available again in a couple of months.
Unless you’d only be rather casual, I’d go with the suede blouson.
Simon, relatedly, do you think the tobacco/”sandal” suede Valstarino also works formally? I’m sure you’d agree it’s less formal than the chocolate. The tobacco suede probably works with smart beige, olive, or navy chinos, but perhaps less well with grey flannels or frescos? Thanks.
Yes, I wouldn’t advise the tobacco as a remotely formal option. For that I’d suggest, navy, dark brown, and then dark olive
Hi Simon, I really like the jacket but concerned that at 6ft 5 tall it may be too short. What do you think? Thanks
It’s hard to say going just off your height. Best thing to do is look at the length here, and compare it to other jackets you have, to see where it would fall. Of course it depends what size you’re buying as well.
Is it too incongruous to wear the Valstarino in a smart color (say, this “greige”: https://www.trunkclothiers.com/products/valstar-suede-valstarino-jacket-greige?variant=33040920707107) with mid-grey high-twist wool trousers in spring/summer? Or is the formality gap between the suede blouson and the crisp fresco too striking? Thanks.
Probably too striking. A blouson like this isn’t really designed to go with trousers that smart. Flannels are about as smart as it should get
I can certainly understand that. I will say I think Berg & Berg made it look good here: https://bergbergstore.com/blogs/editorials/mainly-grainy. But I agree that look might be hard for mere mortals like myself to pull off. Still I find myself drawn to that “high/low” style.
Yes, good point. I think it just about works there because of the casual shoes and knit underneath. Worth trying if you have similar pieces
Hi Simon,
Would you consider swapping the light blue OCBD for a white one (either with chinos or jeans)? I’m wondering if that wouldn’t work better for an evening casual chic outfit given the higher contrast.
Yes Noel, a white oxford would work nicely. I wouldn’t see it as that much of an evening outfit, as both shirt and jacket are still pretty casual, but it would look nice.
Fair point. Maybe a “casual evening outfit” if that make sense. Cream trousers for example seem less appropriate when it gets dark, regardless of their formality.
Yes, that’s true
Hi
do You think the lighter denim shirt can be used with jeans without looking like cowboy when I take the blouson of? Or should I stick with either a Chambray (do You know when Yours will be restocked?) or an ocbd shirt – it s for an casual evening at the pool hall with a lot of Young people. So I think I`ll be wearing White Common Projects also.
Hey Frank,
Yes, I think it can if the denim is fairly dark. Even a pretty cool look.
The chambray is meant to be here at the end of this month.
S
Hi Simon
I think this post is the best expression of my usual range of formality! What I’m struggling with here is the capsule of shoes – the Edward greens listed are rather sleek and expensive, and I worry about their ability to stand up to London’s cold, rain and mud.
For shoes to complement the Common Projects in this casual capsule, what do you think of some combination of a loafer (eg C&J Harvard/Boston), a chukka, and a boot? I can’t quite work out what would be the most flexible boot for trouser options of nice denim; Incotex chinos and flannels – short of workwear so perhaps an Alden Jumper or the C&J Coniston?
Or would it be better to go for one more work boot (Wolverine or Iron Ranger) and then keep slimmer chukka’s or desert boots for town?
I think you’ll want two pairs of boots, yes. A pair that you are going to wear in mud, won’t be smart enough for flannels. Think of those two as separate – Alden/Wolverine in one, C&J/EG in the other
Love the Valstarino and will get the weather proof one on your store. Would you wear the non-wool lined jacket (Spring/fall use I would assume) with navy wool trousers and perhaps navy blue flannels at the start of fall?
Yes I would
Thanks again. I’m waiting for sizing info and order details from your shop department. Thanks for creating something special.
Hi Simon,
I own a Valstarino in brown suede (caffe colour).
I wonder if it works with navy chinos (and brown calf shoes). Do you think it’s a nice combination or better to stay with the 3 three you propose in this article?
Also I would like to ask you which brands you would reccommend for chinos to wear with this Valstarino? In another article I’ve read nowadays you’re not a big fan of Incotex (because of elastane and low rise). Maybe military chinos are not the best option (l’ve read your article that analises Clutch Cafe chinos). So my question is where to go for “smoother” chinos to wear with casual clothes like a Valstarino. Formal cotton trousers (like the ones from Berg & Berg) are not the best choice for this outfits, are they?
Thank you and best regards,
Yes, that sounds like a nice colour combination Gio. I’d try Rubato for a smarter chino like that. Sounds like you understand exactly what you’re looking for
Hi Simon, Do you think the Burgundy version (I’ve only seen on Mr Porter), would be reasonably versatile too please? I am not sure if this is what Valstar call myrtle possibly?
It would be quite good, yes. I’m not that much of the fan in general, but if you like it then it could be quite versatile
Thanks Simon.
to be honest, I’m not really sure what the colour would be like, as on the website it looks quite brown:
https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/mens/product/valstar/clothing/leather-jackets/valstarino-slim-fit-suede-bomber-jacket/28941591746571309
Yes, that looks a lot more brown than I’d expect. Might be nice
Thanks, I think it might well be worth me trying it, as it looks like a nice colour if it looks anything like that in person.
Hi Simon
A brief point about sizing; yes, you are right blousons / bombers you need to size up.
With Valstar I have found it necessary to go up 2! I bought my original some 6/7-yrs ago off Yoox, so it was a good buy. I wear a UK 42 and bought that size, it fitted but was “snug”.
Last week it had an airing and it was just too small. I had planned to sell it on eBay but my son intervened. He wears a 38, but mine wasn’t big on him. I received my replacement yesterday, size 46, and, to be honest, it fits. It’s no more than a “proper” 42.
The issue is that there are few bricks and mortar stockists, and buying online most people aren’t going to think of going up 2-sizes. They say its a “slim” fit, but there is slim and there is ridiculous.
The jackets are great; classic design, well made, and decent value compared to the market. But the sizing needs to be better thought out.
Philip.
Hi Simon. Great article. Would you elaborate on why you ended up not liking the lined version? I live in a cold weather climate & trying to determine lined vs unlined.
It’s not a big difference, it’s just that I liked feeling the back of the suede – more in touch with the material. But it is also a touch more likely to stick on your clothes etc when you put it on for example
Simon, any update on when the PVWC x PS version will now drop please?
January, though no precise date yet
Thank you! All the best for 2023.
Hi Simon, I own a navy verison of the Valstarino. Do you think the same combination suggested above works for navy as well ? Any other suggestions ?
Yes I do, though also see article here on a navy valstarino
Thans ! Will take a look.