This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment.
It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined.
Casual, in that there’s no jacket, shirt and tie - and that the shapes are all relaxed and comfortable. Nothing is sharp or tight.
And yet it’s no less luxurious than more formal clothing, with thick cashmere knitwear, Fox flannel trousers, and top-end leather shoes.
The colours are muted. Yes, cream is quite bold, but there are no strong colours anywhere, and the most pleasing aspect is probably just the tonal combination of cream, brown and grey.
An alternative menswear uniform to white, navy and grey, perhaps.
And I call it refined because there is such close attention paid to those colours - as well as the materials that hold them.
The brown flannel trousers have to be dark and cold - Fox calls it char-brown. The grey of the coat can’t be too similar to either the brown or cream, but sit somewhere in between. And that coat needs pattern - otherwise nothing in the outfit would have any.
The coat and knitwear, being from Connolly, both have some fashion-forward details.
These appeal to me at the moment. Each has a slightly dropped shoulder, the coat has a big, rolling collar, and the sweater has an unusually long cuff (which is very cosy on a cold day, but can be folded back too).
The scarf at the neck (the ‘PS Square Scarf’, which I designed with Begg) is also a dandyish detail.
But these details are not the central appeal of the outfit, and are easily changed.
If you remove the scarf and replace the sweater with a classic design, you retain all the sophistication of the colour combination with none of the fashion.
Pick a blue oxford shirt, a cream shetland over the top (Trunk has some nice ones), brown flannel trousers and dark shoes, and you have something suited to a casual office, yet a little different to standard menswear combinations.
I can even see the loafers (Belgravia model, Edward Green) replaced with a black equivalent, given the relative coldness of the outfit.
I’ve got my eye on black-cordovan ones (EG Greenwich model), though Alden would be a lot cheaper, even outside the US.
The sweater is the Gigi model from Connolly, bought two seasons ago. Unfortunately cream isn’t currently available, but navy is. The coat is also not available, although again there are others in different colours.
The trousers were made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury and the cloth is Fox CBT5/R1285/39 (13/14oz). PS Square Scarf in grey here.
I don’t think it’s any coincidence that my other two trouser commissions in the works are grey Spring Ram from Harrison’s, and brown covert cloth from Holland & Sherry.
Both should slot into this tonal wardrobe nicely.
Photography: Buzz Tang
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I like this combo very much, but black shoes would kill it stone dead.
Simon,
Very nice, though would you be tempted to go with suede shoes? Do you not find that polished shoes clash a bit with more “matte” looking, tonal outfits? They just always seem that little bit more formal.
Have you written separately about the coat anywhere? Can’t find it if so, but it’s very appealing.
Suede shoes would have been nice, yes. It would have made the overall outfit a little more casual, but that could have been fine.
Personally I don’t think polished shoes clash – they create more contrast, but that isn’t necessarily good or bad.
Suede would have been fantastic with this outfit. Also, the EG Galway boot would work very well with this ensemble, adding a bit more of a masculine look. The more I study the color combinations, the more I like grey and brown together.
Definitely veering in this direction also. Intrigued how you do so in the summer.
Nice point. First thought: safari jacket or linen overshirt, with knitted silk or cotton T-shirt underneath. The knitted element keeps it smart
Hey Simon, thank you for the alternative suggestion. If possible, could you recommend a maker for the knitted silk or cotton T-shirt that would be priced at a reasonable point being a t-shirt? Thanks!
John Smedley. Best to think of it as a short-sleeved piece of knitwear rather than a t-shirt though – and that’s what’s driving the price
The collar of the coat looks very nice. Wondering whether it will stays so (collars on pics generally look better than in real life).
The knit of the jumper looks great. I just find the cut too loose and would fear it gets even looser.
I’ve been wearing both for a year, and I can safely say the collar and jumper haven’t changed, thankfully.
Hi Simon,
Would this outfit which you covered a while ago be the summer equivalent? https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/07/the-hollywood-top-trouser-from-edward-sexton.html
Trying to think ahead and plan my summer wardrobe since warm weather is not that far off now.
Thanks
Yes, good call. The knitted T-shirt I mentioned would just make it a bit more casual
I like this outfit; there seemed to be a time when menswear writers would advocate for wearing a sports jacket or suit as much as humanly possible based on the idea that it was objectively the most flattering thing a man could wear. This may even be true, but the feeling or vibe given by clothes probably matters a lot more than that.
Already sold out of Lighter denim shirts! Any more coming in?
Hi – yes, though only in the Medium size, the others are available.
I’m afraid we won’t be getting any more in soon, but there are Mediums in the normal Everyday Denim shirts, and Lighter Denim cloth.
Also, if you email [email protected] they can put you on the waiting list for a Medium. There’s a good chance we’ll have an exchange or return sometime in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks, pinged an email over.
Love the color combination and the thickness of the knitwear. The dropped shoulder design however, has never really appealed to me, particularly with outerwear. What appeals to you about the drop shoulder look?
I like the dropped shoulder because it looks relaxed and slouchy. I wouldn’t want it on the vast majority of coats, or a formal overcoat, but it achieves that slightly slouchy look and it’s subtle – subtler than most design things you could do on a coat (gauntlet cuffs, weird button positions, epaulettes etc)
But less subtle than a raglan shoulder, wouldn’t you say?
Yes, less subtle than a raglan, true. I doubt many people would notice either though
And less effeminate.
Yes, a dropped shoulder could be seen as a little effeminate, though again I think most would just think it looks a little fashionable if anything
Would raglan sleeves not do a similar job but less strange ?
See above – they would be more subtle, perhaps a little old-fashioned rather than forward-fashion. But neither is necessarily better
Never been a fan either. It just looks like it’s one size too big (or two)…
I really like the subtleness of this look, I’m a big fan of monochromatic outfits. Could you please elaborate on your use of “cool” in your description? In my world (art & design) the word cool when describing a color would be mean the appearance of blue, as opposed to red which would produce a warm color. Brown is almost always warm as it has the presence of red.
Hi Robert. By colder colours I mean those that have less saturation, less red in the mix, and tend to be darker. There are lots of browns of course, and those with less saturation and less red tend to look colder I think.
I’ve written about this in more detail here:https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/04/wearing-warm-and-cold-colours.html
If there are better technical ways of putting it, do let me know
Sam points out the issue of the shiny shoes – I understand your response. I think however, that the balance is slightly lost in the outfit as the thickness of the Connolly jersey and matte flannel trousers suggest an almost outdoor casualness that outweighs the shiny gentility of the loafer. I suggest a more casual (perhaps heavier) shoe (EG Weymouth suede shoes) or refined boot (EG Top Drawer/Tim Little Chelsea boots) would have given a better balance to the ensemble.
Simon,
I’d have thought you’d go for a pair of Bluchers/Derbies with that rig. The Belgravia loafers seem a bit out of place given the rest of the outfit. To my eyes, a double-soled pair of bluchers/derbies in Dark Brown or Burgundy would have set this off.
I second the first commenter on black loafers on this rig. A non-starter for me.
Alan
I find it interesting that you write luxurious almost as if the outfit would be generally only luxurious if it was formal.
Just my opinion, based on the price of most things on PS, everything on here is luxurious…..Yes, I generally consider a luxury item based on price.
How do you define luxury?
Interesting point Joel. I say ‘casual but luxurious’ in that more casual wear tends not to be luxurious – jeans, t-shirts, sweatshirts etc.
Luxury itself is a slippery thing to define today, as it’s gone beyond the literal meaning of something that is outside the norm for someone.
I’d say a cashmere/silk knit, like this one, feels luxurious where a sweatshirt (even an expensive one, loopwheeled, rare etc) would not
I bought the Connolly Silk/Cashmere knit. Sadly it didn’t look right on me so I sent it back, but it was the nicest feeling sweater I ever felt and now struggle to find anything that is cashmere/silk with a 50/50 blend.
Luca Faloni have some very nice 70 cashmere 30 silk knits.
Thanks, I have an N Peal sweater which is 70/30 too but there is something special about the Connolly sweater in the 50/50. I don’t know how to describe other that beautifully lustrous. Soft with a very smooth hairless feel.
I think this outfit looks incredibly unisex.
My Grandmother has a very similar coat.
Personally I prefer a more masculine look.
The perfect outfit for spring!!
Agree with whoever talked about how wrong black shoes would be with it, and also with comment about the slightly delicate loafers you are wearing.
Keep trying Simon! You will get it right in the end I am sure.
Simon, on the issue of luxury: do you think legacy is also an issue? You mention jeans, sweatshirts etc. – these items, respectively, are from the spheres of workwear and sportswear and, even when expensive, are never quite seen as true luxury items. Your items, both made from natural, luxurious fibres, come from a legacy that is neither of these (almost pre-war ‘country house’ leisure wear). I also contest Jason’s unisex claim – how and what might change were it to be more ‘masculine’, given the normality of the outfit? Knitwear and tailored trousers are a winter weekend staple for many men. So, for example, if the jersey were to be blue might this alter the impression?
I think legacy is definitely an issue, yes, but it also depends on range of pricing. So jeans are unlikely to seem luxurious when you can get a pair for £20. Cashmere seems less luxurious too now. But certain looks and feels only come with more expensive quality.
And yes, masculinity is very subjective and cultural. And often used as an excuse.
Different topic: How can someone avoid discolouration on chinos (Khaki colour)?
What kind of discolouration? Just the colour fading through wear? Or dirt, stain etc?
Fading through wear
Ah, well in that case it’s down to the trousers themselves and how they’re made, rather than anything you can do with aftercare.
Trousers that are garment dyed, for example, are more likely to fade at the seams and wear points over time. That’s what they’re intended to do. Often that’s with things are more heavily washed or treated too. Tailored trousers made with dyed yarn are less likely to.
The sweater is susceptible to moth damage – mine soon developed a hole.
More susceptible than another normal cashmere jumper?
Love your collection.thanks for sharing.
Hi Simon,
What are your thoughts on climate range for the Spring Ram fabric? I don’t see much online about how cool/warm it wears and what I have seen seems conflicting. I’m not worried about it being scratchy so lining isn’t a necessary consideration.
As always, appreciate your input.
I think it should be ok for English summers, so up to high 20s in temperature. But I haven’t had any made yet so can’t comment that personally
Hello
Simon i want to ask for a combination change instead of grey coat a camel coat the other elements keeps the same your opinion
That could look nice, though if the camel coat is too strong a colour it might struggle
Hi Simon,
Would you say char brown flannel trousers is as versatile as charcoal flannel? What colour shirts or blazers would you recommend to pair the char brown flannels? I have never owned a pair of flannels and I am considering the char brown as something different, although charcoal would the default choice.
Thanks
Rupesh
No, charcoal would certainly be more versatile. And mid-grey more versatile than that.
I’d consider char-brown as an interesting alternative further down the line. A third or a fourth pair.
Continuing on Rupesh’s question and your input about the versatility. I find myself in a quandary with choosing two colors of Fox flannel to have made into trousers. Currently I only have 1 pair of grey flannel trousers (11 oz weight) in a shade that falls halfway between pale and mid grey. I want to purchase two of next most versatile colors. Would you go with (1) Fox Classic Charcoal and (2) Char-Brown? Or would you trade the Char-Brown for Mid Grey and risk the similar shade? All 370G 13/14oz. Rather an important decision because I am going to draw the line at 3 pairs of smart woolen flannel I’m afraid.
Cheers,
Robert
Well, first I would only do one of those pairs of trousers at a time. Not both. So I would get the darker grey made, and try them for a few weeks, see if there are any situations where you find neither pair of trousers works
Excellent! Thank you. You’re saving me money.
I love the look of this pullover. It looks like a reasonably generous fit (I’m guessing you took a Medium). I usually find that even really good quality cashmere knitwear “grows” a little with wear. Have you found that it has stretched at all?
This hasn’t, no. It is very much a question of the thickness of the cashmere and how tightly it’s knitted, rather than the quality.
Two points
1. Who was the maker of the shirt in this article?
2. I have a Swatch of that brown Fox flannel and it is fantastic.
What could you recommend say for a stronger fabric for the trousers, perhaps H&S Dakota etc
Thanks
Lindsay
1. I’m not wearing a shirt Lindsay? Do you mean the scarf, or the knitwear?
2. The best stronger options are covert or cavalry twill, so yes from Dakota. Or something in between would be something like Thornproof from Porter & Harding
Thanks Simon for your help on the trouser fabrics.
Apologies on the question regarding a shirt, so disregard that. So, the cream knitwear is from Connolly and the Scarf is from Begg?
Thanks again
Lindsay
Yes exactly
Do you think the Char-Brown flannel by Fox would make a good double breasted suit?
Absolutely, that would be spectacular
I really love this look Simon. Do you remember the size of the overcoat (just in case is reissued)? I always struggle whit “oversize” items, I never know if you should pick your size or go one size down.
By the way, do you have any opinion on their Beige Trench Coat? It seems oversized as well but really nice, don’t know if the effect could be similar to your heeringbone or the trench is intended just for women.
Thanks!
It’s a Medium. No plans to reissue as far as I know, though they regularly bring back the style in other fabrics.
It’s hard on oversized pieces – I think best to try and get the measurements so you can compare at least how far off your other coats they are.
The trench coat is nice, but perhaps a little too feminine I think. The material is quite stiff too. I think it’s harder to do those styles as unisex when there’s such a classic version for men.
Would you wear a navy overcoat with these trousers? I’m considering trousers in similar shade to be worn mostly with knitwear. Only overcoats I have are navy and olive green (loden). Thank you.
Yes I would.
Thank you.
Hi Simon
What kind of jackets work with these trousers? Would navy jackets work ok? And grey herringbone?
How about your silk dupioni with this?
Is this brown hard to pair with jackets?
I don’t find it hard to pair, but it does depend what jackets you already have. I wouldn’t wear another brown with it (like the silk) but I would wear all shades of grey, navy, black, cream and some greens
Hi Simon, do you think dark brown Rubato chinos would have worked well with the outfit?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes
Hi – do you remember the fabric and weight of the jacket?
Do you mean the coat pictured Chris? If so that’s ready to wear, so the fabric wasn’t chosen as a swatch
Bummer! I’m trying to recreate it (since it won’t be back in production most likely) with a tailor so was just curious if you knew rough specs of the fabric. It’s a tricky find!
I don’t, but I’d also say it’s not the kind of fabric that fabric mills tend to offer – the closest might be some of the Marling & Evans overcoatings, but this Connolly one is chunkier and more open than most tailors would ever use.