Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something.
I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the word to readers.
Biagio promised real bespoke, but without any frills of nice fitting locations or regular, planned visits - in return for a much cheaper price (€1600 for a suit and €900 for a jacket, plus cloth).
Unfortunately, two years later I have one jacket that is part of a suit - which was delivered last summer - and nothing else.
From what I’ve been able to see, Biagio’s work is actually quite good. But the process has been frustrating and perhaps most importantly of all, his English is not good enough to either communicate this, or to have that relationship with a tailor that is a large part of the appeal of bespoke.
The jacket pictured is in a 240g wool/silk/linen from Drapers (370130). It just about works as a separate jacket, but would be better as a summer suit.
Unfortunately the trousers were the worst bit of the process. They looked decent at the first fitting, but at the second fitting had been taken in, not out.
The third fitting was an improvement, but still not great. And Biagio had had an English-speaking friend at the first fitting, but not any more. There was a fair bit of using Google Translate, as a result, but it was hard to communicate much.
At the second fitting he also brought a friend who made shirts and wanted to make something - but I haven’t heard anything about that since.
The trousers had to be scrapped, to start again. Meanwhile the jacket was looking good, but at each fitting often one or another change had not been made.
The language issue also made it hard to communicate finer points - for example why I wanted the buttoning point lower, or that I wanted the sleeve length taken from my shirt, rather than my hand.
After four fittings, we had the jacket pictured, which as I said, is not bad.
The balance is good, it’s clean and sits well through the neck and shoulders. The only real issue is that some of the style points I tried to request were not built in.
For example, I wanted it a half inch longer, but this wasn’t done and the jacket then finished to the point that it was no longer possible.
We have had two more meetings since, in order to re-fit the trousers. They had a better start, and hopefully will be wearable, but I have yet to receive them.
In the meantime, Biagio wanted to make a tweed jacket to improve on the summer one. We have had two fittings on that, but I have yet to see the final result.
I have been waiting for the past month to receive that jacket before writing this review. But nothing has arrived, despite Biagio saying several times that it had been sent.
Hopefully the process as a whole has been long enough to offer some decent conclusions.
I should add that aside from the English, Biagio has not been great at communicating, often arranging trunk shows at the last minute.
This lack of organisation is something he has in common with some other Neapolitan tailors, but not usually to this extent.
From what I can tell, Biagio is a nice, genuine guy. He is not trying to defraud anyone.
But his English is just not good enough to communicate with non-Italian speakers, and the only reason to recommend his tailoring would be the price.
I don’t wish to generalise too widely, but I do think there is a tendency for young tailors and fans of bespoke to try and undercut on price, but fail to plan for how that will work out long term.
The real cost of travelling to see a customer three or four times in order to deliver a suit. The chances that you will make a loss for at least the first year. And the need to focus on one location, rather than going everywhere to try and scoop up as much demand as possible.
They are things I covered previously, of course, in my post giving advice on such trunk shows.
As with all reviews like this, I have told Biagio in advance that it will be published, and the issues it will describe. I do not wish to spring anything on anyone.
Biagio has said that he will correct any issues, and emphasised that he is still learning.
I genuinely wish him the best. But I don’t think a tailoring business can work on this basis.
He needs an English friend to help translate at every meeting (as Vergallo have done, for example, with great success) and he needs to charge a price that means he can spend a year travelling to London, or Stockholm, and building up a strong customer base.
The jacket is worn in these images with a lightweight Friday Polo, grey Fresco trousers and grey linen handkerchief with white border. In a whole tonal-look kind of way.
Photography: James Holborow
Personally I had a similar experience with another young Neapolitan Tailor. As a result, even when the jacket and pants aren’t that bad, I have no positive connotation to wear it and I sold it. What’s your take on this?
I feel like when I’m going Bespoke I want it all. Great choice of fabrics, advice and knowledge from the Tailor, building a relationship over time and last but not least a wardrobe that really represents me and how I see myself. After trying out a few makers, by now I only use one tailor, one trousers maker and one shirtmaker. On shoes I’m a bit more flexible, but tend to stick with the lasts and makers I know by now. 😉
I think that’s a good approach – and I think generally, if all you’re after is a cheaper price, you’re unlikely to be satisfied on all those things
Biagio’s shirtmaker friend is his brother Pasquale—also a very nice guy, also unable to deliver much in a reasonable time period.
Other tailors here in Italy have told me they can’t see how Biagio can travel so much, including New York, and make any money at his prices. My son had a suit and shirt made by both of them in Naples. He is very happy with the results but it was a trying process.
Biagio really is a fine and honorable young man but I think a bit over-extended.
Thanks. I have been trying to encourage him to put his prices up, in order to cover consistent travel and as a result deliver a better service, but he’s reluctant
The shirtmaker isn’t his brother (Pasquale Granata) but Pasquale Provenzale. I ordered him a shirt during a TS with Biagio. It took 6 months and one fitting to be delivered after many reminders. I finally obtained a very nice shirt with a very good fitting but not in the fabric and with the collar I had chosen.
Biagio has a brother named Pasquale who works with him and is a nice guy (he is on Instagram Pasquale Granata). But the shirtmaker with whom he travelled initially is Pasquale Provenzale.
As I wrote shortly on Instagram. I have used the services of Biagio Granata and I am generally satisfied and would recommend him.
I fully understand the issues pointed out by Simon. Especially with the organization. In my opinion this is a common problem with many Italian talors or shoemakers. They are often simply lacking the understanding that it is much better to scheadule realistically and deliver on time than to promise deadlines that are impossible to be met. There are plenty of reviews on the Internet with other Italian tailors and shoemakers that descibe similar issues with the organization, delivery deadlines, and problems with the communication. Solito was also not the best in terms of organization 10 years ago.
But still, when I look at your photos for a 900 EUR jacket -> this is exactly what many people with modest budget want. Neapolitanian cut and structure, bespoke fit, and hand work.
Yes, it is chaotic, but your jacket still looks great. And for example for a young 20 year old guy that can’t afford to spend 3k-5k for a suit or a jacket, this is a great option.
Hi Simon –
You have probably covered this question somewhere else, but do you contact the atelier, tailor or artisan just before your review goes live to warn them (in this case, warn seems the appropriate verb) of its existence?
Yes – I did mention that in this text actually.
I always tell people, and indeed discuss all my views with them. This is not an attack – I genuinely want them to improve.
Sorry for not reading more carefully. I skimmed the text of this post. Your criticism is 100% reasonable, and this maker seems to not have his “stuff” together (to say the least).
Dear Simon,
On this topic, who would you say is the best Neapolitan tailor, pound for pound? That is, considering: make, style, service, availability and price. Also, would be good to know if any of these guys travel to Stockholm these days, as I find that info a bit hard to find.
Regards
Nicolas
It depends on what you value (eg Caliendo charges more because he visits so often) but on balance I’d probably say Ciardi. Doesn’t travel to Stockholm though
Thank you sir. Is there any of the Neapolitan tailors that travel to Stockholm these days?
NapolisuMisura visits Stockholm and i recommend them.
Whats is their starting price for a suit/jacket?
In the USA, Napolisumisura is $2000 plus fabric. I was told an average suit is 3.3 meters of fabric for an average price of $3000.
Many thanks!
Mon Dieu, it’s a good job you aren’t short of suits !
I live a relaxed existence but could never put up with this stuff – I’ve got more to do than chase my tailor around the block.
Given his prices, the amount of work involved in bespoke and his apparent catastrophic approach to customer service, I have no idea how he expects this to work.
Beautiful fabric – great choice. It is too short at the back as you say also the rhs shoulder looks low – do you normally have this side padded to correct (could be postural)? On reflection would you have gone for lighter buttons? Lastly your advice seems sound: building a sound production base (that ensures delivery), clearly an issue around communication (not just language) and focusing on what’s important (delivery of the commission and subsequent PR). From a business perspective some investment is required to balance these elements but only if the cutting is as good as it should be. The trousers suggest not quite yet?
Nice questions. No you’re probably right, not on the trousers.
No, I like the colour of the buttons. And no (three!) the jacket is usually cut down on that side rather than being padded. I don’t mind if it looks a little lower. No one is symmetrical
I am in the midst of exactly the same issue with Biagio. It has been an incredibly frustrating experience. The language barrier is one thing, but the overselling in terms of delivery dates with deadlines that missed time and again.
The process of having my first suit made was fine with the time between ordering and delivery probably taking less than 6 months (no frills as you mention), and I happily placed an order for another suit and a couple of jackets. I also ordered a shirt from Pasquale.
The shirt, ordered and paid in Oct 2017, has still not arrived. Same thing for the rest. I had my first fitting for one of the jackets in April 2018 and gave the go ahead to finish – I have yet to receive the jacket, more than 12 months later. But every week I hear “next week I send it to you, it’s almost finished”….
At one stage I even searched online to check if others has similar issues – I thought I may have been conned. Like a ponzi scheme of bespoke suits. Seems not to be the case and that he is honest, but I have all but written off the likelihood of ever receiving anything from him.
What a mess !
Go to A&S – you won’t have any problems.
I’ve been going there for years.
Fabulous relaxed cut, great finish and impeccable service.
What’s more, you pay when it’s finished and you are happy.
This does look like a Ponzi scheme!
Sad, because the cut is not bad.
I think that works well as an odd jacket. The patch chest pocket helps a lot in this regard. Sorry to hear about the issues but that jacket does fit you quite well for the most part (I agree it could be a touch longer).
Simon have you thought of putting some work into learning Italian? I have found a little goes a long way when speaking with tailors as you really only need a few bits of vocabulary and very basic conversational grammar to get your point across.
I’m curious why you would ask for the sleeve to be made to shirt length rather than to the hand? I’ve thought hand is always more reliable.
Nice point on learning a little more Italian, yes that would help.
I make the sleeve length to the shirt because I can’t change the length of all of the shirts – if I was starting again I guess it would be a bit easier to have them made off a specific hand reference, yes
You mention it just about works as a separate jacket whereas it seems to do so quiet well to me, and as above I dont seem to be the only one. What is your reservations of having it as a separate (beyond your knowledge that it wasnt what was planned for it).
Hey. See comment below from ‘Prince Florizel’ and reply
i would not call this a review of the jacket
What would you have liked to see Ezequiel, more detail on the finishing?
yes. details on the style. how it compares to the different italian makers you have already tested. any particular design features (if any). what kind of look you can achieve. etc. how it justifies for you to have one of their jackets made beyond their offer (e.g. some picture you have seen and encouraged you to proceed, etc.).
i do not have a problem with the article, as it is very informative. but it is not a review of the jacket. more like a review of the tailor’s business.
Hi Ezequiel. Thank you, that’s very helpful.
Yes you’re right, it’s much more a review of the service, just because I didn’t feel I could recommend the jacket given how poor the service was. Whether the jacket is good becomes less relevant at that point.
Unfortunately I can’t go into all those aspects in a post like this, where there is so much else around the jacket to cover.
Great to know what you would have liked to see though.
oh, i see. you are right. keep up the good work.
Hi Simon, I sort of agree with Ezequiel. It doesn’t have to be really in-depth, but a paragraph or two on style, etc., would be useful and, I think, a nice addition to a post like this.
Ok, thanks David
Only PS could write an article like this .
It reads like a sharp thrust given during the Heimlich maneuver ! Painful but necessary .
Seems to be a case of “knows the craft but doesn’t understand the business “.
To make the business work at what price points should he be selling suits ?
We’ve talked about this and I think he’ll be selling suits at more like 2000 plus cloth going forward
Interesting .
It further illustrates the point that the only reason a customer can’t get bespoke cheaply is because it simply can’t be done cheaply .
Exactly. Those that have never done it before feel like there’s decent margin in bespoke prices, but they forget to allow for things that take extra fittings, or pieces that just have to be scrapped and started again. The thing that often kills people is the cash flow though – waiting to get that second half of the payment at the end, and wanting to get there as soon as possible.
To give an example of this, two weeks ago I took a jacket into Sartoria Ripense here in Rome that they had made for me four years ago. It always felt a little tight at the waste. Andrea Luparelli, the charming and dapper proprietor, made the adjustments. I went back Friday—only now it was too loose. So he’ll adjust it again. All of this will cost me nothing, although it certainly costs him.
When I commission something new from him (about once a year), Andrea charges me nothing upfront—and never has, even the first time when he didn’t know me.
So he has considerable cash flow issues, which he seems to manage well. Yes, he charges more than Granata (he pays rent in central Rome after all), but not that much more.
And his small staff of Calabrian cutters can make me a suit in a month. It will be ready when he says it will. I’ll gladly pay for that.
Thanks Max, good example
Would love a review of Roman tailors
Hi Simon,
Just a quick note: I love the cut of this jacket and more importantly, its muted color. Works well with the fresco grey trousers. It looks like being even more versatile than oatmeal you have often praised.
As part of a suit, it should be equally fine.
John
Slightly off topic, but could you offer some advise to sartoria corcos? I really, really like his style of jacket but I don’t know anyone who has experience of ordering from him. Could you perhaps offer some tips? I know you haven’t had anything done by him, I read your review of meeting him, but perhaps you know people who have and could offer one second hand insights?
Hi. I don’t think I can, sorry. I’ve heard positive things but not enough detail to offer real advice really.
I have one suit by Kotaro and I’m very happy with it. The style didn’t look as good on me as I thought it would so it remains the only one I ordered. Kotaro is very professional, very dedicated to and proud of his work. I world encourage anyone who likes his style to give it a try.
It’s kind of strange to hear that a young tailor doesn’t speak proper or at least servicable english, I would have expected this to primarily be an issue with older generations.
So you are confronted with Italian poverty and unemployment which promotes traditional organized criminal organizations. Different persons have different talents.
My barber from Calibria has been in German-speaking Switzerland for forty years and cannot speak German.
Hi Peter,
well, i hope he speaks after all those years in Switzerland some “Schwyzerdütsch” or Swiss-German. As a Swiss, I speak SwissGerman and the real German is a foreign language for the Swiss, but not only…. It’s complicated, we speak SwissGerman and read and write in proper German. Difficult, I know……:)
Pietro
The most important word in the Italian language is “bella” – in English, “beautiful. Italian and Swedish are the most musical languages of Europe, although I must name Lithuanian as ancient tongue where speech and song intercourse. Calabria mia! My barber has Italian clients and coached a football team. His client Giacomo forgot to mention Napoli as sartorial star in Italian condtellation, I quoted as reader of PS Simon.
That is a Caccioppoli reference rather than Drapers isn’it?
Sorry yes, thanks
Simon, I’m interested in the fact that you opted to have a suit made out of this cloth. Do you have experience of using wool/silk/linen for trousers? I was under the impression that the silk element might make it too fragile for trousers. Also, I would worry that the slightly shiny nature of these fabrics might be a bit overbearing in a full suit. I note that, on its website, Caccioppoli describe the fabric for use in “jackets”.
On a separate point, if they are offering jackets for €900 plus cloth then €1600 for a suit seems a bit steep. This implies €700 for the trousers, which is a lot of the jacket is only €900.
Hi Jim,
Yes you’re right, and I just answered another comment on the same point. The trousers will not wear that well, but I think would be fine for someone who would only give them light wear. The sheen was also a concern, but actually it’s fairly matte in person.
Thanks
Dear Simon. Is he used prefabricated canvas or real hand made «tropunto ?
Hand made – hand padded canvas
Style wise, it looks great. I love the cloth. It absolutely works as a jacket and probably more so than it would as a suit.
The fit *looks* as good, if not better, than your average commission.
I suspect you won’t get much wear out of it, which is a shame. The whole process sounds incredibly frustrating, though. I can’t imagine what is going on his end.
Dear Simon, if I’m not mistaken, this is the first time you write about a full suit made out of wool/silk/linen blend. Usually, you recommend cloth like this one for odd jackets. What made you order a full suit and what is your take on trousers (you didn’t receive yet) in this mix? There are some beautiful mottled fabrics out there that could make nice casual trousers. Thank you.
Good point. I would normally recommend it for a jacket, yes. Here I had it as a suit because I didn’t feel the jacket had quite enough texture or pattern to make it a versatile separate.
But the suit would still only be good for light wear – fine for me with so much tailoring already, but not great for someone just started out. The trousers wouldn’t wear that well in the long term.
Hi Simon – I’m curious why you think the jacket would work better as part of a suit? Based on the outfit in the pictures, I think it’s very effective as a separate. Is your reasoning down to the limited colour palette the jacket can work with?
Yes, exactly. It works Ok with this outfit, I think, when there’s so much contrast between it and the shirt and trouser (one very light, the other very dark). It would also be OK with a cream trouser. But that’s about it.
I disagree with Simon when saying that he must raise the prices. I think he want to have a small but consistent group of customers, which probably are young, to build a last longing relationship: if a young guy is making a suit now maybe he can order 1 or 2 per year for the successive 30-40 years. If you want such a customer base you can’t have so high prices, furthermore increasing pricing just to pay your abroad visit is a shame. If those trunks were “on demand” I can understand, but given the tailor wanted to go to London or NY it’s up to him trying to manage the best possibile his business. I think one just needs a group of 10-15 assiduous clients per city and he has done.
In addition:
– increasing the price don’t make people faster
– speed is the FIRST enemy of bespoke tailoring
Maybe he just have to say that the delivery of a suit takes 18 months: simple, honest, direct.
Hi A. Thanks for your views. Just to clarify, the only reason I think increasing his prices would make him faster is that he would be able to travel more consistently. He twice had to cancel visits with me, which then just adds another month or two to the whole time it took.
But I think it is not ok to have different prices for different customers. NY pays more than UK which pays more than Milan which pays more than Napoli (based on the distance and price of tickets). I don’t think this is fair for customers unless they specifically arrange the meetings on their expenses (always separated from the bespoke cost).
I agree. I don’t mind locals in Naples paying less, perhaps, but once you’re flying overseas then prices should be the same.
(And also not lower if you happen to have one fitting in Naples, as one reader asked me recently)
Many international mail order firms, including yourself, charge different shipping by destination which few question. Why does the fact it’s effectively hand delivered negate the fact it costs more to go to the USA than within Europe etc?
Good luck with the 18 month time line. This is a suit, not a Morgan or a new yatch.
Simon gives him good advice. There is no future in this bargain basement stuff. Bespoke is a luxury business.
Simon,
Please can you elaborate a little more about the quality of Biagio’s work (e.g. the quality, fit and style)?
It is understandable that improvements to the customer experience should be the main point of the article, given how far it falls short of the bespoke experience.
Now that you have the jacket delivered perhaps you might be able to comment about his workmanship as part of an overall review?
Hi Julian,
I think it might be best to comment in detail at a later point. But in brief, his style is typical younger Neapolitan (Solito being the most similar of the ones we’ve covered in our Style Breakdown series). The finishing is average for Neapolitan, so decent but not on the same level as any French or English tailor. The fit was good, solid. Could certainly be improved, but not bad for a first suit. The only substantial issue was there being rather too much on the front edge – the fronts overlap a little too much.
S
In terms of finishing, how would you rank the Neapolitan makers you’ve tried? (I’d expect Ciardi and Panico to be among the top ones..?)
Yes, Ciardi and Panico near the top, some like Solito near the bottom, most in the middle. The difference between them and even the regular English makers is much greater than the difference between the Neapolitans though.
That said, its partly a question of priorities. Eg a Neapolitan will.be more likely to have lapped seams, top stitched by hand, all the way round the jacket. Whereas an English tailor is more likely to skip that but have fine buttonholes
Who made the trousers?
The ones I’m wearing in the pictures? Luxire.
Io parlo italiano – it’s more of a cultural than language issue. I had an appointment with Cacciopoli earlier this year who now offer bespoke tailoring in house. In conversation I ascertained that they may or may not do the work in house “dipende” being my favorite Italian word!
It’s actually cheaper and quicker for me (in Liverpool) to travel to Naples than to London and a lot more enjoyable so I was looking forward to meeting them. I had a plan for two jackets, four trousers and maybe some shirts. Frustratingly Ryanair canceled the flights for that week and I couldn’t reschedule so if anyone else has experience of Cacciopoli’s in house tailoring I’d be interested.
I think part of the issue here is not just price, but his having the customer supply the cloth. That way he collects cash up front, and yet doesn’t have to deploy any of it at all in buying cloth from a merchant. Unearned revenue builds as a liability on his balance sheet without any investment in inventory — a favorable working capital position for him. From a purely financial perspective, that’s a less pressured position to be in than if he had capital tied up in a bunch of pieces of cloth he’d spent part of his advances on. Of course, once he’s invested time in actually cutting/making a garment, he’s more invested in the unfinished inventory, and as we see from your review, reputation does take a hit…
I agree with comments from others that this jacket is one of the better ones I have seen you in and perhaps you should cancel the trousers!
Biagio came to my hotel room in Naples in March, I chose fabric for a summer jacket (wool/silk), and he returned a few days later for the first fitting. I left Naples for a week, returning to the airport with a few hours spare before leaving for Rome by train. Biagio picked me up from the airport, took me to the train station where we did the second fitting, the work had progressed and was looking good, but the alterations needed were much the same as the first fitting – sleeve length and slight rucking at the back behind the collar. He promised a maximum of 50 days for the finished garment. He is indeed a delightful young man and with his poor English, my poor Italian, and google translate we got on well. Euros1100, we shall see when it arrives, I have had an Email saying not long now. I’ll repost when it arrives, and am very likely to get more garments made if he proves as reliable as he sounds.
My jacket did turn up, it was promised in June but was late. The delivery date was even later because of the tyranny of distance of NZ from Napoli. I am finding the same delivery frustration with furniture coming from Milano. The jacket is gorgeous and particularly well fitted at the back which would seem to me to be difficult to do in such a lightweight wool/silk blend. I have a body shape shape easily fitted with ready to wear Italian clothing and don’t normally see any value in bespoke. I detest the phaff, as I see it, of the whole bespoke experience, but the drape of this jacket is beautiful and well worth the time investment. If Biagio can get his delivery times down he should certainly be considered for a purchase, if bespoke is really your thing.
As a London resident I can’t let Fastship’s analysis go unchecked: Liverpool to London fastest is 2hr 24 mins, city centre to city centre. Fastest flight time 2hr 45 mins, Ryanair (tomorrow) 3 hr 45 mins: that doesn’t include travel time to airport, check-in, security clearance etc.. Cost by train from £38.50, by flight £26.58 + Uber city to airport return £26.00 so £51.58. So not really faster or cheaper…
…well you said it all “as a London Resident”
Folk lucky enough to live far away from London know that the REAL cost of traveling to London never falls below £300 for a day. For first class add another £200 and for an overnight and you can then double that.
From my home to the City I always (after many, too many years doing it) I allow five hours whereas I can be in Amsterdam, Milan, Geneva and indeed Naples in less time by taking wing.
In point of fact the rtn flight to Naples in Feb was less than the cab fare from Euston to the ‘Row…
One other point, in talking to the man at Cacciopoli a few times I learned that they may subcontract some work to artisans in and around Naples which is just what the Tailors on the Row do now but at least the Italians don’t attempt to conceal the fact. One tailor I spoke to in London says the trend now is to send work out beyond the M25 even, to Asia and yet the conceit of “Saville Row” tailored is somehow maintained.
On that last point, it’s always been common practice for Savile Row work to be outsourced. Even where houses have a lot of tailors in-house, they are employed freelance and make for other people as well. They might not be open about that, but it’s not new.
Personally, it doesn’t make any difference to me whether those tailors are based in Soho or Sussex. Bespoke shoe outworkers aren’t usually located in the centre of London, but it makes little difference.
Making in Asia is of course different, and is relatively new, though Kilgour were offering the same service Huntsman now are (with much of the making done in China) almost 10 years ago. It’s just more widespread now.
Chap I know used to swear by Hong Kong tailors now tells me they can no longer afford to do business there (same reason as London – unaffordable rents and no labour) and have moved out to Shenzhen or outsource to Viet-nam, Philippines etc.
I just think with bespoke you should be fully aware of what you are paying for and getting. They are not always the same thing. That label stitched into the lining means less and less these days.
A very interesting article. I imagine writing it was harder than many of the more positive pieces, so thank you for your efforts (especially as there must be a temptation to simply let such potential articles fall away and never be finished/published).
The process sounds difficult (to say the least) but then end result is actually very nice (or at least, the jacket is – the trousers can’t be seen just yet!). I can see why people would go to Biagio but I think that I’d choose to pay a bit more and get a slightly more orderly process.
I can also see why young tailors often compete on price (even if this makes things very difficult for themselves). It must be quite hard to attract new clients unless you already have a following from working at a well know tailoring house (i.e. Richard Anderson probably found it easier to build a book of business than Biagio and perhaps was less inclined to compete on price alone as a result). Do you have thoughts on how Biagio would go about building a book of business if he didn’t compete on price? Am I just overly conservative in thinking that many people would stick to the better established tailors?
Hi Michael,
No I think you’re right, and that’s a good point.
A new tailor can differentiate themselves on other things, such as cut (if there aren’t other tailors offering that same cut in that same city) or they can have a strong, distinctive style that attracts people (as most RTW brands have to have – and Saman Amel is a good example).
But it is much easier to compete on price. Still, Biagio could be 25% more expensive and still be cheaper than everyone else, pretty much, and I think more sustainable at that point too.
S
Hello, honestly this jacket is the best fit that I have seen around your specific , collar, neck and shoulders. Have a nice day
I tried two Biagio and they are good. Maybe they have too Neapolitan lines. In an article I found on the internet I saw that Biagio and Pasquale worked with Enzo Carfora in fact now I want to try him because it has a different line from the Neapolitan jacket. Next week I will go to Naples but I know I understand where the tailoring is
As a long-term and prolific Alfa Romeo owner I suspect that there’s something in the Italian psyche that impacts tailoring and mechanical work in a very similar way!
I recently had a suit made by Biagio and figure to add my thoughts. I spent 20 days in Naples this April and contacted Biagio on my third day there. The majority of my time was spent on a base that was/is off limits to him or other civilians which complicated matters at times. For our first meeting he picked me up by the airport, because of the time of day and traffic we detoured to a coffee shop owned by his family. At first it seemed a bit sketchy but we selected fabric in the backroom of the shop and he measured. I chose a simple light-navy 120s and a 3 roll 2, quite standard and nothing out of the ordinary. The next fitting was jacket with one sleeve, second was same along with trousers. I subsequently had five fittings in total, all with the exception of the last was where he worked. The final fitting was in my hotel room (Excelsior), which was the night before I departed. The pants we never got to perfect but the jacket’s fit and cut were spectacular. He delivered the suit to the airport before I stepped in to head back to the states. Yes, communication was difficult at times and toward the end I felt as though I had to push him to ensure it was completed before I departed. From our first meeting I asked if it could be completed within my time there, he said yes. At times he waivered but I flew home with the suit, in total it took probably 17 days. I posed the same question to Matuozzo for shirts and she said they could be completed though they were unable to and I am still waiting for them. I don’t say this as a complaint but simply as fact and comparison. I have a tailor in the ME that I have known for years and does decent work. Even after four years (I lived there the majority of the time) they weren’t the best with deadlines. In turn, I was happy with the suit from Biagio and whatever difficulties that ensued I write off to culture, communication and take it as a positive experience and a peek into what native life is like in Napoli. For what it’s worth I found him an incredibly nice man and honest.
I really like this jacket. It seems to fit well (bearing in mind your oft-repeated comments about judging fit from photographs) and, apart from being a little short, has a good cut. I like the straightness of the lapels, which seem a little more in proportion with the rest of the jacket, compared to those of some Neapolitan tailors. I like the cloth too which, I think, does work as an odd jacket, although perhaps not as patterned and textured as one might ideally like. I have a jacket in a not dissimilar cloth from Loro Piana, which has a little blue in the weave which I think helps.
Simon
Do you think this jacket could work with jeans?
No, I don’t think so. I find the wool/silk/linen cloths still too sharp for jeans.
I don’t think there’s an easy equivalent to tweed or cashmere that you might wear in the winter with denim like this. I’d be more likely to wear a linen safari jacket or overshirt
How about the below with jeans?
http://www.caccioppolinapoli.it/shop/prodotto/390118-jackets/
It would be the same I think, a little too sharp for denim
Ha! I’ve run out of options. Perhaps a plain linen in a light olive colour?
I just wondering could pants use the wool/silk/linen fabric? and could it make the suit from this fabric?
The material was actually originally for a suit, but I would be cautious about using a material like this for trousers. It will be quite delicate
I had the same experience as Simon except it’s been over 1 year since I’ve paid him and has fittings and received nothing!
At this point, it is defrauding me because I’ve paid for goods, he keeps promising me one more month every month, and obviously nothing.
He does have money and time on IG to fly around to Paris, London and NYC but not finish.
If I had legal recourse I would do it – but since there would be no way to recover the funds I will just share my story
I had also exactly the same experience as you MSC.
Last fitting was in November 2018, I have paid him and received nothing.
As you said, he keeps promising one more month every month and nothing.
Unfortunately he is not a tailor that could be recommended.
I am afraid I will not see a dime or the suit I ordered.
It’s interesting seeing this jacket described as too short – compared with the prevailing style of the moment it seems simply normal, but compared with the rest of your wardrobe it certainly appears a little boyish. I’d love your advice on this point Simon – I’m 6 foot tall, and fit a 38 off the rack, but RTW jackets seem to all be so short. Even brands with a solid foot in classic style like Drakes, Man 1924, Trunk etc, make jackets that are between 28 and 29.5 inches long in the back for a size 28/40. Seems weird to me, but I suppose these brands are banking on the majority of their size 38 customers being shorter than 6 foot? I guess the only real answer is to go MTM/bespoke..
Yes it probably is I’m afraid. Those shops are probably playing an average that is a little shorter than you (or me). Plus there’s a little fashion in there too – less of a problem with casual jackets, more one with suits etc
Hi Simon,
just to let you know i have been conned completely by Baiggio. For the last 6 months he has been promising to send me the suit next week! And i call him weekly,
I was stupid enough to send him the money for the suit as he told me it was ready 6 months ago and was about to send it out. The guy is a crook and a fraudster. Be Warned.
Oh dear. Thanks Rafael. I’ve never got my trousers either…
Hi Rafael! I am so sorry for the long delay accumulated with you and other customers. I simply found various work difficulties that prevented me from working for months and delivering them. This is not meant to be a justification and I am at fault towards you and other people, I just want to make it clear that I am neither a scammer nor a thief, I am a decent person who works as you work too. I understand your frustration. I address you and the customers who are waiting impatiently, you will receive your orders already paid as soon as possible. Thanks for waiting!
Dear Simon! I don’t understand your obstinacy in receiving trousers, you despise my work but at the same time you are anxious to receive them. The linen jacket does not look good, the tweed jacket is to be thrown away (as you say, never had the pleasure of seeing the flaws), I have already thrown away my pants, I saved you a bit of philosophy. At least to you, I don’t owe anything!
Thanks!
Biagio, I do not despise your work in the slightest. I have said good things and bad things about it, as I do with all tailors and things I review. Also, I have not been anxious to receive my trousers. I haven’t chased you for them for months. But there were some issues, as mentioned, with both jackets. And the trousers were never delivered.
Dear Simon, you won’t get the pants. I accept every kind of accusation and complaint from customers, I also accept your judgment but I don’t owe you anything that is clear, so you don’t need to discuss and climb them every month if you still think you buy them.
Best regards!
Ok, thanks for telling me
HI Simon, you can see the attitude there. Although, don’t take the language too literally, its google translate (“despise” may sound softer in Italian!)
Biagio has been constantly apologizing to me for the last 6 months, in messages similar to these, promising to deliver “next week” weekly.
If one has no way of delivering then dont promise! thiat is dishonest.
Also, customers dont want to see his instagram pictures of fitting new customers and going on summer holidays. Biagio should be working weekends to get everyone’s orders delivered.
Yes you’re right on both points. Apologies mean nothing if he consistently fails to deliver.
I too have been conned. Two jackets, a suit and a shirt.
The shirt was ordered in December 2017 from his brother.
The first Jacket ordered in April 2018 (1x fitting )
The suit in June 2018 (1 x fitting)
Second Jacket ordered in September 2018 (no fitting)
All in all, about EUR4000 down the drain. For the past 12 months Biagio has promised that I will get me items “next month”. That seemed unrealistic, then he asked for postponement to end of September, which seemed realistic given that if he sits down and pulls his finger out, it is probably possible to finish these items in a week. Show of hands for those who think my items were delivered yesterday?
I think the cash has dried up for him, so he cannot finance existing workflow with new customer cash any longer. Hence the massive delays.
Let this be a lesson for everyone. Fool me once, shame on you….
I guess this is just another one of those things that you have to put down to experience – like I have said before Simon there are many talented tailors out in both London and the provinces who produce excellent work and service – the bread is being taken away from their table by alleged craftsmen like this.
Thanks Peter, though I disagree they’re affecting regional tailors. It’s really only the ones in London and other cities like Stockholm that are being undermined by pretenders like this.
I am going on almost 3 years since I prepaid 4-5K for a couple sport coats and trousers and still nothing. He instagrams or emails me every 3 months saying one more month.
He is a thief and would never ever recommend him.
Has turned me off to traveling tailors and I live in Chicago now so very few options.
However, I’ve been working with Chris Despos now who is potentially the best tailor in USA and an unbelievable guy!
I left a comment here in Oct 2019, expressing my frustration with not receiving my items as promised – as many others have done. I’m glad to say that I finally received yesterday what I had had made and I’m happy with the result. It has not been an easy process but I can now say that Biagio is not a conman. I hope that those people still waiting for delivery will have the same positive outcome.
Thanks Gysbert glad they fit well. Mr. Cherney also received the suits two weeks ago. Thanks for your patience!
I find this all very depressing
There are many talented tailors in the United Kingdom who are losing work because of Neopolitan this and Milanese that. Many of these tailors are just a regular guy in a tight flash suit who can’t deliver. We will probably have an epidemic at the end of Lockdown.
I completely agree Peter, but I also think English tailors should take a hard look at themselves from a style point of view. Very few feel current at all, and have basically ignored the increasing softening of styles that’s been happening for almost 20 years now. That’s the reason Italians here have been successful, not price or anything else
I really like the color and texture in these pics.
What kind of weave please
It’s a plain weave, but the texture is down to it being a wool/silk/linen mix in the yarn. This is what creates that variation
Thanks for the replies. What do you think of this in a fresco or hop sack? Btw becoming a big fan of your site
Nice to hear, thanks.
This colour could be nice in hopsack, yes. Avoid fresco in general for jackets though – it’s meant for suits or trousers.
You said in comments that you think wool/silk/linen is too sharp for jeans. I really like the look of this jacket. What summer and fall/winter jackets do you recommend for jeans if
wool/silk/linen Is too sharp ? Thanks
Winter is easy – woollens, tweeds, anything like that with more texture is great for jeans.
Summer is a lot harder, and to be honest I wear linen overshirts with jeans, rather than tailoring.
Simon
This is a great fabric/colour pairing. Can you recommend a winter equivalent for the jacket? Same type of grey/brown with a similar amount of texture, but heavy enough for spring, autumn and winter?
Thanks.
I haven’t come across anything recently Matt, no. It’s usually something you have to search for yourself though, given how quickly these cloths come and go
Simon, do you remember if the fabric is a jacketing or a suiting? Or wouldn’t it make any difference?
It was a jacketing – it wouldn’t make a good suit, too fragile
Quote from your article above: “The jacket pictured is in a 240g wool/silk/linen from Drapers (370130). It just about works as a separate jacket, but would be better as a summer suit.”
Sorry Manuel, you’re right I had misremembered. It was a suiting – but I now think much better as a jacket!
Thanks, that is really helpful.
Welp, I (happily) find myself back at this article after 3 years – from reading the tie-in article for the pressing video with Dege, then hopping onto link for the lightweight jacket they made you. It’s like a wiki walk within one of my most favourite subjects in the world. 🙂
I was curious, Simon, if it would be okay to leave this line as is: “He needs an English friend to help translate at every meeting…” Surely, readers would understand that you mean a fluent English-speaker? Meh, I’m probably worrying over nothing.
Lovely to hear Joseph!
I think that is understood, or at least I think it’s clear I’m not saying only someone English would do, but rather than that would work well