This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t quite make that grade. 

As ever, this is only a fraction of the number that contact me every week. I try to pick out only those that have the potential to do something interesting or new. 

  
Son of a Tailor

I feel genuinely sorry for Son of a Tailor. Based in Copenhagen, they have the laudable aim of creating basic T-shirts with a bespoke fit. They initially contacted me a year ago but only offered a synthetic-mix cotton at that stage. When they introduced a 100% cotton ($70) we started the process of making a T-shirt to fit me. 

The fit in waist and hips we got right with the first shirt. The sleeves (a bit tight, a bit short) took another iteration. But the thing that defeated us – six T-shirts later – was the collar line. I didn’t like the two they have as standard, and it’s very hard to describe the line of a collar. Measurements move; the band itself is as important as the opening; and pitch needs a whole other system to communicate. 

If you see one of their shirts and like the neckline, or ask to try one through the post and do, I would highly recommend them. But it didn’t work out for us. 

  
D’Alembert

There are so many companies doing small leather goods it makes my head ache. They’re so easy to design, have no sizing issues, and can be made in small batches. So many people launch crowdfunding ideas for the ‘perfect wallet’.  

D’Alembert stood out in my Inbox for the hand-painting, which was nice. Unfortunately the wallet they sent me had its paint flake away quite quickly, leaving a not very natural effect. This can happen on any wallet dyed in this way, but not to that extent. The replacement wallet was better, and if you like this look of wallet they’re worth considering – though expensive at $295 with no hand-sewing.

  
SAAL skincare

SAAL are an Austrian skincare company doing some of the great things with ingredients that bigger outfits like Aesop have been doing in recent years. 

The formulations are nice, with subtle but masculine fragrances. But the non-aluminium deodorant (€22) they sent me wasn’t really strong enough to control my (strictly average, honest) odour. And things like the packaging were sub-par – although these were test bottles. I’ll update when I try the finished product. 

  
Aether sunglasses

Aether are part of an interesting growth area: luxe sportswear sold on its technical capabilities as much as  style. Brands like Arc’teryx have been growing fast off the same trend, and several non-sports brands have been investing in the area as well. 

When I was offered the Aether sunglasses to try I was interested in this precise combination – something that looked good but was also technical without necessarily appearing so. For the commute to work, sitting between Meyrowitz horn and Oakley half jackets. (Side note: few things are worse than men wearing Oakleys with tailoring. It makes me physically shudder.)

The Aether Scouts ($600) looked good, were very lightweight (titanium frames) and held on well with some fairly active cycling. But despite the extended frame top and windshields, they actually made the airflow worse for me than regular glasses. So unfortunately not that practical.

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Omar Ali

So basically nothing to see here

Nick Inkster

The relative price of garments is interesting. Whilst I am happy spending £000’s on a suit or £00’s on shoes, I wouldn’t dream of spending $70 on a t-shirt, particularly as most of the time it’s invisible. I’m happy spending a few quid on eg Hanes and throwing them out after about 6 months.

Peter

I have to agree. Simon wrote a post some time back about what is worth having made bespoke. I would definitely not put t-shirts in that category.

That said, it’s very good to have Simon devote the time and energy to exploring all the various aspects of craft in men’s clothing and accessories.

Scott

It’s difficult to find a better T-shirt than those produced by Sunspel. I’ve worn them for several years now and they have held up extremely well. The sleeve length,neck line, and fit are all excellent and the fabrics superb.

marko

Hello Simon

Who are the brands or craftsman that produce hand sewn(I presume this means saddle stitch) wallets and where do the prices start from? I presume hand sewing on a wallet adds longevity value since wallets are quite under stress?

Enzo

Hi Simon
what would be more versatile for shoes colour, the “usual” dark brown or dark mahogany?

Gavin

For $295, I would gladly choose a Chester Mox wallet for half the price and what sounds like double the quality. I have been very pleased with the wallet I received from them about a week ago.

Bernard

“Another iteration” would be a reiteration…

facebook_Duncan McPhie.10154161736244152

Refreshingly honest post, Simon. So many articles are just positive PR puffs. It’s good to read some truthful comments.

Anonymous

Simon!

In terms of deodorant, do you have any reommendations? Ive had the same thing for years and are looking to upgrade to something better, both in terms of scent and function. I have tried a few, but none seem to be strong enough, even for my “modest” body odour.

ANM

“Side note: few things are worse than men wearing Oakleys with tailoring. It makes me physically shudder.”

I see this all the time. Suit. Tie. Finsihed off with wrap around iridium – orange lens plastic – framed extreme sports sunglasses….

On par with wearing a large $29 plastic digital sports watch with a suit…grow up.

Michael K

Simon, have you had any experience of Rolf Spectacles out of Vienna? Despite some fashion-brand aspects, they seem to have some of the same qualities you highlighted in your piece on Seraphin jackets today. I’m a couple of weeks into wearing a pair and they’re the most comfortable, solid glasses I’ve ever worn. Best, Michael

Robert M

Ah, thank god I stumbled upon this old post again, Simon. It prompted me to visit the Son of a Tailor website and, although I don’t need a bespoke fit in t-shirts, I was extremely pleased to discover they offer MTM sweatshirts and other longsleeves. With extremely long arms, I’m never able to find anything, so I’ll be sure to place my order with them.

Jordan

Hi Simon,

I asked a question on another one of your articles, and I’m not one to ask for something without giving something, so I thought I’d write a little about my experiences with Son of a Tailor.

As a 5’6″ man weighing about 105lbs (after dinner), I find it difficult to get clothes off the rack. This includes basics like t-shirts, so I was very interested when I stumbled across SOAT’s website. It took a couple of fittings to get the t-shirts right, but once they did I found them very consistent. I also feel the quality of material has improved over the couple of years I’ve been using them – with the collar band on my newer t-shirts holding up much better to washes that the first ones.

Recently, they have also been offering other t-shirt materials (tencel, wool, etc.) as well as other garments (sweaters, roll-necks, etc.) which I’ve also been very happy with. The only item I found was lacking was the Oxford shirt where we just couldn’t seem to get the fit right after multiple tries. Perhaps shirts are just more difficult in this respect.

Just wanted to share my experience, thanks for the thoughtful article as always Simon.