The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
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Some observations: I like how you told them to place a buttonhole at the centre for the watch chain. I came up with another neat solution that avoids having to sew a buttonhole, and instead hide on in a central seam, whi...
An investment dressing gown, made-to-order by Budd
Last winter, I spent a good few weeks looking for a dressing gown that would be worth investing in - something luxurious, to last many years but also enjoy at every stage. My existing gown was a towelling model from Anderson & Sheppard, whi...
An investment dressing gown, made-to-order by Budd
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Informative Article!!!!!!!!!!...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to a...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
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I haven't seen that one in person. It looks nice though...
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
'Dressing up in a Dress-Down World' felt like a very timely subject for this Symposium, our first in New York. And particularly relevant in the US, perhaps, where there has always been a cultural aversion to dressing too smartly - in the so-called '...
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
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It's a royal-blue flannel. I'm not sure it's available anymore I'm afraid, but that's what you're looking for....
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
The first Symposium we've held in New York was a great success last week - thank you to all of the 200+ people that came. The discussion was free-flowing and even funny in places, as we discussed dressing up and dressing down, for others and for our...
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
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There's never been a full review, but it has featured in some other posts, eg https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-i-get-dressed-in-the-morning.html...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
Coverage of our events last week in New York is going to work in reverse. First, here, is the party after the Symposium - which Anderson & Sheppard customer John Demsey (Executive Group President, Estée Lauder) held at his house in Ma...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
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I can't say I'm a fan of patch pockets on DB, especially on the chest. I've noticed some jackets with patches on both sides, which look terrible....
Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief
This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-satin hanks. Hopefully this off...
Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief
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Hi Nik, is there a chance to get one of these white linen pocket squares? Best regards, Jens...
Point collars – at Budd
My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread with a tie, the button-down ...
Point collars – at Budd
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I'm afraid not John, it's not something I've experienced. It sounds like there's probably no easy fix though, which means you need to replace the shirt or live with it. As to alternatives, though, it's certainly possible...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
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Awesome article Simon. Very informative. Your photography is perfect and this type of content is hard to find. You are right i found it interesting because of the video. Nice crowd and very well explained everything i al...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
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It does look like a cravat, yes. Lots of places in London still have them - Budd for example...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
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I just felt the northern and southern Italian had more distinct styles, and wanted to be as international as possible so bring in Asia and the US. Would have liked to include a dozen other makers......
Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...
Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to say that this is a defic...
Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...
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I usually take my jeans in at the waist when I get them, because my hips are much wider than my waist, and again take them in after they're worn in and stretched. I've never heard a denimhead voice an opinion on this and...
Bespoke safari jacket – part 1
This safari jacket, made by London shirtmakers Budd, was born out of a desire for a soft, unstructured layer I could wear over a shirt or T-shirt in the summer. Often such things are referred to as shirt-jackets. They have no structure whatever, li...
Bespoke safari jacket – part 1
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You'd want it to be a little more loose and casual probably, and it depends what you will wear it over...
Budd bespoke safari jacket
My l atest column for How to Spent It is on a safari jacket made recently with Budd. An interesting project, there will be more about it on Permanent Style next month. In the meantime you can read about the background here. Remember, all previous...
Budd bespoke safari jacket
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I have, but it's hard to know exactly what you would mean by that. It certainly has a little shape, yes, rather than being straight up and down...
The Merchant Fox
Douglas Cordeaux took over the running of weavers Fox Brothers in 2009, along with his friend and Dragon’s Den resident Deborah Meaden. When he moved down to Somerset, despite high expectations, he was blown away by the manufacturing handwork a...
The Merchant Fox
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Update to the curious: Fox woolen flannel 370G/13oz fabric (1.5 meters for a pair of trousers) is 268 British pounds/310 Euros/328 US dollars including shipping....
Budd: Very traditional shirts
A second piece by Permanent Style from the latest issue of The Rake Budd: Very traditional shirts Budd shirtmakers is for men that really like English tradition. Unostentatious almost to the point of modesty, Budd has been quietly making some of the ...
Budd: Very traditional shirts
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Not usually, no. I like fusing even in the most expensive shirts. There is certainly cheaper and more expensive fusing, and perhaps you will get an improvement there, but I would have thought CT would still be OK...
