Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt ...
Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
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No I haven't, sorry...
Wearing odd waistcoats
You’re more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well. Because they usually don’t fit, and nothing is less forgiving than a waistcoat. Because they are often, bizarrely, worn in bright patterns and colours. And bec...
Wearing odd waistcoats
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Hi Daniel, Have a look at the homepage of this site, and read the article on loose fitting cardigans generally (the long sleeve cream). I talk in that one about the waistcoat...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
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I read very little online about menswear, with the exception of Die Workwear. Jason Diamond's columns are good, as is anything Tony Sylvester writes, eg for Brycelands. My favourite Substack is The Ruffian, about politic...
Calvo de Mora donegal jacket
This is the third of the commissions I made with Spanish tailors earlier last year. It is a lightweight donegal jacket, from Calvo de Mora. It is probably the best of the three, and the most expensive. Funny how those things often go together.* Th...
Calvo de Mora donegal jacket
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Thanks John. There is a 18cm width on the bottom, and I believe 23 at the knee. Bear in mind that the width should be in proportion to your shoe size as well though. If my feet were an inch smaller, then proportions woul...
Spanish tailors
Over the past couple of years I have got to know several of Spain’s leading tailors fairly well, particularly Langa, Reillo and Calvo de Mora. Spanish tailors can be characterised as flexible and value for money, particularly given the amount...
Spanish tailors
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Hi Lynette, I am not a shirtmaker, merely a journalist writing about shirtmakers. I'm sure the maker would be able to help, but it would be best to contact them directly...
How to pick buttons for a suit
Simon, I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...
How to pick buttons for a suit
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In my experience it's not normal, no, but I can also see some tailors thinking the customer might not have a particular preference. It's an easy thing to change if you ask them to...
Calvo de Mora: bespoke tailor, Madrid
–> Calvo de Mora has a reputation for being a little younger in style that other bespoke tailors in Madrid, such as Reillo and Larrainzar. It lacks Larrainzar’s royal and political client list as well, but is the tailor for the fam...
Calvo de Mora: bespoke tailor, Madrid
–> Calvo de Mora has a reputation for being a little younger in style that other bespoke tailors in Madrid, such as Reillo and Larrainzar. It lacks Larrainzar’s royal and political client list as well, but is the tai...