Paris: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 up...
There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accordin...
Paris: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 up...
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Hey Mo, I would be suspicious about bespoke at that price point, yes. To be honest, I think you're better off going for really good MTM at that price, rather than risking bespoke and it not turning out as you expected. I...
Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown
We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now...
Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown
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I'm afraid I don't know actually Jonny, but it is something I could try and measure at some point. It's an interesting area...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
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I never did a full piece on it I'm afraid. But those trousers were in heavy Pardessus cloth that Holland & Sherry no longer sells, made by Elia Caliendo. The shirt is in Everyday Denim made by Luca Avitabile, and the sho...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
*Check the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debat...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
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Hopefully this winter, yes Rob...
Final Camps de Luca grey suit
My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs last month. But books, polos ...
Final Camps de Luca grey suit
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I still love it, yes, though the style remains a little unusual and I don't wear it as much as other suits for that reason. The material is great though...
Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London
Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s store on Cliffo...
Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London
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I believe it's around £1300...
A farewell to Camps de Luca on Place de la Madeleine
Parisian tailors Camps de Luca are moving premises, after 50 years overlooking Place de la Madeleine. Their new home is at 16 Rue de la Paix, near to Place Vendome. To say goodbye, they put together this video showing the stages of bespoke suit ma...
A farewell to Camps de Luca on Place de la Madeleine
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Because the cut is beautiful,but the Parisian notch is not in my taste....
Camps de Luca suit: fitting
I’m getting pretty excited about this Camps de Luca suit now. Not only will it be one of the most beautifully made suits I own – coming from a Parisian tailor – but also one of the most versatile. In both those ways it is similar ...
Camps de Luca suit: fitting
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That's standard, and absolutely fine....
Camps de Luca suit, Paris
I’ve known the De Luca family for a while now – particularly since Julien rejoined the business a few years ago. Julien was English-educated and worked in the City before going back to join Camps de Luca, and somehow the English connectio...
Camps de Luca suit, Paris
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One tip for cloth-hunters: If you live in a center of textile or clothing design, there are usually cloth merchants selling odds and ends that were designed for fashion houses. On ebay and elsewhere, I've seen unusual sh...
A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...
Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.
A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...
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Your beautiful photos conjure memorable prose: "The French term for window shopping is 'leche-vitrines'--licking the plate glass. This requires perfect leisure, and our breakfast had used up most of the morning. Still we...
Parisian gentlemen
In Paris last week Dirnelli organised a wonderful dinner of fans of the blog and bespoke gentlemen. He is fourth from the right. The other gentlemen will remain nameless. Around the table were customers of Chittleborough & Morgan, Solito, Cam...
Parisian gentlemen
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Interesting use of the word 'gentlemen', which for me relates more to the manner of one's conduct, rather than one's dress. I have no insight into the character of the attendees, but wonder whether you have another inter...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
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Probably this one, just because it is so different to everything else I have. Be warned though, it is very different and dramatic...
How to dress in hot weather
The remarkable heat in London over the past two weeks has led to a few questions from readers as to the best way to stay cool in tailoring. Here are my top five tips. 1 Wear linen Linen is a wonderful cloth: breathable and cool to the touch. Although...
How to dress in hot weather
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I think you'll be fine, but if in doubt, try to try one on somewhere first...
Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris
c French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by Francesco Smalto in 1962 whe...
Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris
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Wow John, that sounds like quite a haul. I'd say it's worth altering them if you think the result will be something that will fit you as well as a regular MTM suit, or very close. Otherwise it's not worth it - fit is mor...
Wear heavier suits
Talking to Parisian tailors this past week, it struck me how many clients push for lighter and lighter-weight cloths for their suits. In many ways, this can be misguided. First, as Julien de Luca pointed in the recent piece on Camps de Luca, the stru...
Wear heavier suits
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Hi Christian, Most English mills offer suitings that are that kind of weight - just not the Europeans usually, like Zegna, Loro Piana, Scabal etc. Have you looked at any English suiting bunches?...
Camps de Luca
Parisian tailors differ in some interesting ways from English tailors. An apprentice cutter has to learn tailoring to the same level as his cutting, for example. Most of the tailors are full-time employees, not freelance. And they are all situated on...
Camps de Luca
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Hi Simon. Any idea as to what a safari jacket (tending more towards a shirt jacket) might cost? On another note, I have hardly been able to come across DB jackets with peak lapels from camps de luca. Is there a reason as...
Henri Urban pockets, Sartoria Vergallo
These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, particularly the embroidered initials. I photo...
Henri Urban pockets, Sartoria Vergallo
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That kind of hidden detailing is excellent. It's an inner smile, like Wittgenstein writing at a self-designed desk held together by bespoke screws forged to work 'the other way'....
Cifonelli – Parisian powerhouse
Cifonelli Parisian tailors tend to be located on the first floor of big mansion blocks. Savile Row tailors are more likely to be on the ground floor of a terraced house, with workrooms underneath. Though certainly a generalisation, this is not an emp...
Cifonelli – Parisian powerhouse
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Cifonelli's tuxedos are superb - have you seen my velvet jacket from them here? It's beautiful. The only thing I'd say is they do fit close. Aloisio I have seen the work of but not tried in person. I like that strong-sho...
