Cashmere Rugby restock, with navy
The Cashmere Rugby - our reintroduction of the classic four-ply quality of Scottish polo - has just been restocked.
A dark navy has been added to last year's flannel grey, covering pretty much all the bases for a slightly classic, slightly better-dressed guy.
The knit was really popular last year, in large part I think because of this combination of luxury and versatility. It's the kind of piece you really can pull on with both sharp flannels and battered jeans and improve both. It runs the full gamut of officewear (today) to a lazy Sunday at home.
In fact the name itself is something of reflection of this breadth. It wasn't deliberate, but where (thick, tight, Scottish) cashmere says luxury, 'rugby' suggests a more easygoing side.
Readers have been telling us that since last year, which is always nice. Noel for example commented on the launch post: “I’ve had my PS rugby for about a week now. It’s very soft and spongy, very cosy…Overall a very nice product that it’s easy to put on and look fairly stylish without standing out.”
I was particularly interested, however, in how Lucas Nicholson, who now works on PS, took to the knit.
Lucas dresses more casually and less conservatively than me. He’s also worked in menswear for a long time, and is pretty shrewd about clothes both in terms of style and quality. He really took to this product out of all the ones he helps with on PS, so I asked for his reflections.
“I’ve owned an incredibly vast array of clothing: if you've coveted it I’ve probably owned it. That's not to show off, just to say I've been around the block a few times. I'm also ruthless with reducing my wardrobe - constantly selling when things don't fit the way I want, or if the dream of acquiring was more fun than the actual owning.
Some pieces have been with me throughout this journey - certain Polo jumpers acquired in Miami that are probably a dozen years old, my first Drake’s shawl-collar cardigan, which cemented the brand in my head as something I'd wear for years to come.
When we launched the Cashmere Rugby last year, I quickly got my hands on it and tested it out. I could immediately feel the density and the way the collar would hold itself. When you work in clothing and are surrounded by beautiful objects, you have to take some advice from Biggie and not get high on your own supply. But I really felt this was something I needed.”
“The only thing that held me back was the colour. The grey is wonderfully flexible but it’s just not something I like myself in. So when Simon and I discussed a navy version my eyes lit up, and ordered a sample in my size.
Unfortunately, as often happens in menswear, the seasons were out of whack. I got it in the summer and after trying it to check the fit, the sweater was rewrapped in its plastic bag and put in the bottom of a draw, not to be seen again until last month.
Let me tell you, time has made the heart grow fonder. As I slipped it on for the first chilly morning this year I can’t stress how great it felt. For me and my style it strikes the perfect chord between smart and casual, bookish and sporty.
I’ve worn it endlessly with a T-shirt under a jacket, over a shirt with jeans. It really is one of those pieces that could take you from a meeting in the office, to dinner out or even a couple of pints after work. It’s flattering and expensive-looking without being ostentatious or showy.
And fear not the ‘delicate’ reputation of cashmere - this stuff can stand up to wear. Proper hardy Scottish cashmere only gets better with age.”
More voices, more perspectives. I like my Rugby with bespoke trousers like the off-white Pommella ones above, but I know Lucas would never wear that. I’ll try and take some decent pictures of how we would, and does, at some point.
The navy Rugby is of course shown here with tailored trousers, but would equally be at home with tan cords, pale jeans and with any type of chino from smart to workwear.
At this point, the most common question I get is, which is the most versatile? Should I start with navy or grey?
Well, I think most guys will know their answer from knitwear they already have, but for the others, I’d say it depends whether you wear more mid-grey flannels or navy chinos and jeans. The grey is going to go with everything except trousers in the same grey, and the navy with everything apart from trousers in the same navy.
There are effective grey-on-grey and navy-on-navy outfits of course, with top and bottom the same colour, but we’re talking about the easiest, day-to-day looks.
One last thing - I’ve deliberately used a couple of short videos here, just to show what the Rugby looks like in motion, or to try and get a little sense of the texture when worn.
I can’t promise to do this every time, as it always takes multiples of effort compared to photography. But if anyone has particular thoughts or feedback on them, do let me know.
I know Instagram is now basically blocking any account that doesn’t do video, video, and more video, but I’d really rather not be told what to do by Facebook if I can help it, and only do things when readers find them genuinely useful. Thanks.
All the details on the Cashmere Rugby, including the quality, origin, and sizing, can be found on the product page here, with more detail in the launch article here.
- Made by William Lockie in Scotland
- Sold in collaboration with William Crabtree & Sons
- 100% four-ply cashmere (two ends of 2x28s)
- 15-gauge
- Grey mother-of-pearl buttons
- Price £355 plus VAT
- Available only on the PS Shop here
Photography and video: James Holborow
Don’t overcook the sales pitch Lucas!
I’m just passionate about easy to wear cashmere polo shirts! Thats all!
Pretty much already sold out in all sizes in navy – despite the waiting list! Probably no plans for a re-stock any time soon?
It isn’t Oliver, only in XS and XXL? All the more standard sizes have plenty of stock
I thought the same, because there is a waiting list button shown below the order button. A bit confusing.
Great that you have added the navy. Looking forward to it.
Thanks, yes that’s a bug, we’re just figuring that out. But you can still go ahead and buy if you want
That’s strange, it says only Medium is available. Apologies and well done on the product!
No worries, it’s just a bug on the site
It might be because on the webstore for every size but medium it has the button to add the waiting list to be notified when in stock, although the add to cart button isn’t greyed out.
Exactly Aaron. Thanks
Hi Simon, now they appear to be. Larges in both Navy and Grey look Sold Out on the product page. Both options looked really nice!
They’re not Jules – it’s just a bug, the waiting list button shouldn’t be appearing. But as long as the ‘Add to cart’ button is clickable, it is available. If you compare it to the extra small, you’ll see the button is then greyed out and not clickable
Hi Simon, The “add to cart” button is not clickable for the large navy.
Thank you. Sorry for not replying earlier. That is sold out though now
The videos are very helpful to get a sense of how it holds its shape while moving, and sitting on a person. They’re more informative than a photo in that sense, especially if one is considering buying it, and not in London. Thanks for including them.
Good to know, thanks Reuben
Agreed. More videos of products help understand fit and shape.
I bought this rugby when it was first on offer and I love it. It’s soft, thick, warm and a great value. Cheers!
Lovely to hear Fred, thanks
hi Simon, I think the short videos are really helpfull to see the clothes in movement and get a better sense of fit. I’m also very glad the youtube videos are back. I like the debate/conversation format a lot, but I really love the videos about the details of a certain process, like the last one about pressing in tailoring. I think it’s a great insight into the work done behind the scenes, and I’m very excited to see them come back! I just love to see people talk about something they are passionate about and see the details they choose to highlight. I think it would also be interesting to do them about more things, hats, glasses, shoes, watches, etc. But, of course, keep doing about tailoring, please! Maybe one about overcoats… the season is upon us…
I’m also excited about the navy color, I really love the grey, but the navy is more versatile for me, since I wear more grey than navy trousers!
Nice, and thanks José, good to know
Simon, great post as always. I’ve noted that in, and several other posts, you explain that navy tops will clash with navy bottoms. I’ve always seemed to like an all navy outfit and have seen many pull off the look. I’d be interested to see a post on your thoughts on double navy in particular. Thanks!
Sure. I certainly wouldn’t say it’s wrong, just more of a look and that’s not always what people want
I’m just never sure of how to wear winter knit polos (except over a shirt). I’ve a couple in merino and I always end up wearing buttoned all the way up. I find there’s something counterintuitive about a fairly heavy garment worn with the neck open all the way down to the sternum. And I don’t like the look of t-shirts under polos. That’s what’s holding me back, basically.
You can certainly button one button if you wish, but always keep in mind this isn’t 100% pure practicality – it’s about what looks nice too. Otherwise we’d all be in identical body suits
I personally also wear it buttoned-up all the way. I think it looks better that way, and it certainly much warmer. So you’re not alone!
Hi Simon,
The second video is useful to give a sense of fit when moving and less staged than a photograph, however I personally feel there is a place for both.
The polo is a very nice versatile piece of clothing. Given it’s versatile it’s probably worth 2/3 times lighter gauge fibres, as the cost per wear will be lower.
Apologies if I missed it – what size are you wearing? I am a touch smaller than you.
Would you recommend or a least not advise against dry cleaning?
I tend to clean most of my cashmere’s in this way usually once and n ver more less than twice per year. Ok possibly a bit less environmentally friendly but needs must!
Completely support your stand against Meta, in what I feel is generally overreach of innocent content.
Great work.
Stephen
Cheers. I wear a Large, though could also wear a Medium, I just prefer this slightly comfier fit you highlight
Looks very nice Simon. Shame that my size is already gone! Better luck next year I suppose.
It’s definitely gone Matt? Just cause there’s a bug where some sizes look like they’re sold. Currently only XS and XXL are sold out in navy
Regrettably, I am an XXL!
Ah no, sorry Matt
Tantalizing! This will have to go onto my ‘when I’m less broke’ list.
Not sure the videos add a lot. As you said – it’s a lot more effort to capture things on video. It’s also a lot more effort to watch them – as detail vanishes with motion. I’ve been unfollowing everyone who’s made the shift to video on instagram, so you’re still coming up on my feed.
I love the addition of video. More of these for your other posts as well, please, Simon.
I’m still keen for a nice green. That way it could go across both navy trousers or jeans and grey flannels. Plus, in considering which colour next, I heard green is the third colour 😉
Alternatively, maybe a nice lighter brown or taupe a bit like they’ve recently released at Rubato.
Ha! Nicely remembered.
But yes good call, on that and the Rubato earthy colours
Green would be lovely. And after green you might want to consider a charcoal one. It would be absolutely lovely with a pink (a paler pink like the PS Oxford) shirt underneath!
Hi Simon, just wondering whether you think the grey version would pair with your Real McCoys beige chinos, in terms of sufficient colour contrast and the rugby not being too smart?
And are you wearing a medium or large in the videos?
Many thanks
Yes I think so, though I might add a white tee at the neck and have a belt that would show now and again, to split things up a bit
I’m wearing a Large
I have the same chino and I wear the rugby with it.
Many thanks, Simon and Noel.
Hi Simon,
Which colour of the rugby will be better under leather jackets like your black horsehide, armoury mccoys horsehide and chapal?
I have those jackets myself and am considering buying one but not sure on colour.
Lastly, how often should you wash this? Do you wash by hand or dry clean?
Thanks
Definitely the grey I think.
I haven’t had to wash mine so far, but I would dry clean. Once a year at the most – a gentle brush and some steam will make a huge difference in the mean time. Or if you get a little stain on it, just soak that area in a little warm water and rub gently
I’ve washed mine using the “hand wash” programme of my machine and using cashmere soap. I then dried it flat. I did this at the end of last winter. I didn’t notice any change.
I essentially treated it like any other chunky cashmere jumper, why would you dry clean it instead Simon ?
Only because the heavier a knit gets, as would be the case with a big shawl cardigan for instance, the more likely it is to get distorted in a machine. If you know your machine well and how it deals with pieces like this, I’m sure it’s fine. But I’d want to stay on the side of caution for fear that someone else doesn’t have the same result
Good point, better safe than sorry. I’ve washed my chunkier cardigans before and I do one piece a time (or at most two) if they’re chunky enough.
Would you recommend the grey or the navy ? I can only get one.
Does my advice in the piece about which trousers you wear more help?
Hi Simon,
I stand by what I wrote last year (quoted in the article). If anything, I think it’s more versatile. It’s so easy to dress up a pair of jeans or chinos looking elegant without standing out.
It’s one of the garments I’ve been looking forward to the most as the temperature drops.
I have other knits in navy but I’m still tempted given how much I’ve used the grey one.
Fantastic, cheers Noel
What make of t shirt (and size) are you liking these days under knits Simon?
I’m actually talking about trying to create a version I prefer here, but usually it’s the seamless T-shirt from Hamilton & Hare, size small (for the close fitting body, even thought the shoulders are a little small)
Are they pure cotton (I couldn’t find the information on their homepage)?
I don’t have one with me, but I think they are, yes
Yes, looking forward to your version, if you go ahead. Sunspel and Hamilton and hare just don,t quite work for me
Thanks Malcolm. Can I ask what you find you dislike about them? It might be useful
The sizing. Medium is too loose in both cases and small, while probably preferable is too tight. Always feel I’m compromising
OK, good to know thanks
body length to tuck in, but without excessive width
I appreciate the videos Simon. I think they’re a nice addition, helping to get an idea of the product.
Nice Simon, very nice. You already know my feelings on the Rugby from last year, fantastic. If I wasn’t already saving for another PS purchase, I’d snap up the navy as soon as I could.
The short clips were a nice surprise and a welcome addition. I appreciate it might not be realistic to shoot them every time, but it really does the piece justice. With PS products being the best of the best, it’s nice to see them in full motion and how that texture moves. Testament to the hardy nature of Scottish knitwear in the last clip, you were taking no prisoners with that sleeve roll up. Thumbs up from me.
Here’s a thought I had last year, I have a lovely thick (four-ply I think) submariner roll neck from PWVC. It’s lovely, it’s my only roll neck bar a thin merino one I’d only ever wear under a sports jacket (that wasn’t being taken off). Yet, even still with the extra weight and slight ruggedness of the Private white one, I still feel a little odd wearing a roll neck on it’s own.
I know you’ve mentioned this before regarding roll necks looking best under something, my point is the Rugby effectively covers all areas a roll neck would for me. Fair enough you might get ever so slightly less neck coverage with the Rugby, but it looks so much more easy going and relaxed, to me at least.
One last thing, is that a piece of Good Art Hlywd clipped to your denim belt loop in the last video? Such a cool and subtle edge in an outfit like that, wicked.
Hey CK – yes good point on a roll neck. Even better if you like the look of buttoning it up, or even popping the collar.
Yes it is, and thank you
Ordered the navy but wondering if I should have gone for the grey. My work attire features mainly grey trousers but as I’d be wearing more casually, denim, dark and mid blue and chinos, perhaps grey would be the choice. However and this is where I’d value your opinion. My dark locks of yesteryear have now given way to a combination of grey/white! Am I being paranoid about too much grey going on….? I know a tee underneath might help but what would you advise? Am I being paranoid or do us grey guys need to avoid a grey upper half?
I think it can look good actually, especially with a little bit of a tan. But you do need to be careful to keep a little bit of contrast, as you’ve already identified – eg a white tee under the knit, a white shirt with a grey jacket
Just as a practical question I’d be grateful for readers’ thoughts on. I’ve heard in London there are a lot of clothes moths and they are attracted to cashmere. Would you generally store an item such as this in a storage bag between use to protect it, or is that really only necessary for longer term storage (eg over summer)?
Obviously one of the appealing factors about a beautiful item such as this is the long term usage that one would hope to have, so I’d be grateful for some knowledge.
Clothes moths are only a problem when something is not used for long periods Alex – the eggs need to be undisturbed for weeks, ideally months. So no, I don’t think you need to store it between use, only when you put it away for the summer perhaps.
That’s really helpful Simon. I’ve often wondered what precautions someone with a very special wardrobe like you would take!
Moths to one side, this was an enjoyable article. I like Lucas’ enthusiasm.
Thanks Alex. For more in that area, have a look at the Alterations and Care category of the site (through the menu)
Thanks Alex, I hope it wasn’t too superlative laden and that people can see sometimes it is easy to over look something that can seem plain but when you get it on you’ll end up wearing it again and again thats where the real joy of clothing comes in, for me anyway!
Just found Simon’s article on smoke bombs – that’s brilliant, thank you.
Lucas – it wasn’t too superlative laden to my tastes, your passion comes through and that’s great. It also helps educate people like me what’s good about the item, which I can apply here and elsewhere.
I love the videos and indeed the garment but i couldn’t wear that without an undergarment as I’d literally have to wash it every day or buy 10 of them! Maybe some readers can do that if they regularly shop at Loro Piana or something like that!
To be clear Ian, I always wear it with an undergarment as well. It’s just that if I don’t want it to show, I wear one with a deeper V
May you recommend a brand?
From what I see, Hamilton & Hare doesn’t offer a V neck.
Mine is Sunspel
May I know the measurements for the XXL? As I can only see the ones up to XL.
I’m sorry, good point. I’ll get those and add them in
Thank you Simon.
Just received my navy rugby and to think I nearly didn’t bite as (I thought) it was hardly needed. And now, my new favourite item of knitwear by a country mile. Whilst the quality was never questionable, Simon, it’s the sheer comfort and joy one gets from simply putting the dam thing on, that puts a smile on my face. A charcoal or black would also be nice… On that note, Simon, have you ever considered a poll or survey on any future ideas/projects you might have in mind? I’d imagine, with your knowledgeable readership you could gauge quite well, the likely uptake for whatever you might be considering. Invaluable for you and a bit of interaction/fun for us lot. Just a thought…
Amazing! Thanks Richard.
It’s a good question. No I haven’t, I guess mostly because I see it as a decision I make and readers are interested in my choices. But people do also say (as you have) which colours you would like going forward and that’s always really useful as well
Hi Simon, I received mine yesterday, it is great. I noticed that the shoulders are pretty wide, but I guess it is intentional and designed to be a bit slouchy?
Yes, true Gab
Received my grey version today, very happy with it. Two things that really stand out: 1) the luxurious feel of thick cashmere (similar to PWVC’s roll neck from a few years ago), 2) the high collar, which I absolutely love. Every polo knit I have owned has suffered from a low/collapsing collar, so I really appreciate the considered design of this. Not sure why others don’t do it. Thank you, Simon, and all involved!
I have to say that PS is the only online store that I can shop with confidence in terms of sizing, without fear of having to return items (which is troublesome from outside the UK). The consistency in sizing across PS products makes a shoppers life much easier.
Can’t way to see what products come next!
Wonderful, thanks John, and thank you for taking the time to write here too
G’day Simon, I only see you combine this with a t-shirt. Do you also wear it over a shirt? If not why so?
You can certainly wear it over a shirt as well, but personally I prefer not to have the two collars
Hi, keen to know when will the Navy blue large be available?
Thanks very much
Not until the Autumn I’m afraid Jimmy