Wall art from Corthay in Paris. I never tire of talking to Pierre about his creative endeavours, or his collection of the endeavours of others.
In fact it’s interesting how much more creative bespoke shoemakers are, in general, than their tailoring peers. Even those without ready-to-wear collections spend time sketching ideas or designs, where very few tailors do.
Photo: Luke Carby
Simon
How does an average man, not a trendy young shoe designer, blur the line between fascinating patination and incredibly garish shoes?
You mean how do you, as a customer, by the right thing?
It’s about subtlety in mixes. Much of the Corthay patination, for example, is actually quite subtle. There are super-bright colours, which you would probably avoid, but the normal colours have subtle variation in them. Unlike most Berluti.
Also, don’t underestimate the nice colour difference of English burnishing and polish, as you get on a nice pair of Edward Greens.
The expectation for tailors to be creative is flawed. Tailoring is about fit and quality construction, whereas fashion is about design. Tailoring is also innately classic and conservative. Gimmicky detailing is highly undesirable to most men who wear suits on a daily basis. A colourful and unusual shoe that looks great with casual clothes may lack gravitas with business attire. I am personally dubious about any tailor who fancies himself a fashion designer. Tailoring and fashion are two different worlds. Vive la difference!
I disagree I’m afraid. Every tailor has a view on aspects of design, however small. It may be the size of a pocket flap, or an entire Norfolk jacket design, but it’s there. Equally, every good fashion designer spends time on fit and cares about quality materials.
The fashion world is guilty of ignoring bespoke tailoring, but bespoke can also be too introspective.
I agree with you Simon. English tailors in the 1960s were very creative, and unlike modern fashion designers they didn’t ignore fit or make. Patrick MacNee’s suits in the Avengers are great examples of bespoke tailors being creative whilst not forgetting about making a flattering suit. I don’t see how tailoring is “innately classic and conservative.” A good fit and balanced proportions doesn’t have to be exclusive from creativity.
Simon I would love some ideas on some smart summer trousers?
Depends on what you’re after in terms of formality and performance, but certainly some nice heavy Irish linen. Fresco works well though some don’t like the texture. Cotton twills are nice but vary a lot with the finishing – don’t get them too shiny, as gabardine can be.
Ever owned a pair of Lobbs?
RTW yes, but not bespoke. I like them, but prefer G&G and EG