The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Oh no, sorry, I mean a washing machine, no need even for a delicate setting. Hand washing is really only needed for knitwear and materials like silks...
My favourite outfits
In our recent article ' Outfits that I got wrong', a reader commented that he would be interested in the opposite post. Not outfits I got right - hopefully there are lots of those - but ones I got the most right, or I like the most. Perhaps, those t...
My favourite outfits
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I see. In that case I would seek variety in things like colours and textures in the shirt/knit, but also enjoy the outerwear, the shoes, the accessories that go with it. And also don't feel like you have to change too mu...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
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I wear the black under dark brown tweed, yes, and under greys sometimes as well as under dark olive. Navy is surprisingly tricky, and is mostly under navy and dark cold brown as you say. And navy suits, as here Of course...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
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If anything I think it's easier on heavier knits André, harder on finer ones. I've hand sewn up the edges of a thicker one, but you can't get away with anything on a fine knit, it all shows. To alter any knitwear proper...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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Not particularly, but just because my experience with BN Tailor wasn't great, so hard to comment on accurately, and I haven't tried any others...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
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There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
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It's a difficult one to diagnose Stephan, I wouldn't like to suggest what's causing it on yours. Probably letting out, but I think you need to find a good alterations tailor and ask them...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket to work with jeans it need...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
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I disagree with Burt, Vic, but I think this colour of brown is easier than a very dark brown cashmere, as you seem to be suggesting. I think this colour works because it's lighter - clearly not a smart colour - and it ha...
Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory an...
I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 2011. Such factories do star...
Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory an...
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Ah interesting! Thank you very much for sharing your perspective....
