Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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Partly, yes, though it's more about the style - it's less comfortable than a drape cut, but not than a Sexton or Chittleborough, yet I'm happy to have the latter two for the style...
Our next talk – with Edward Sexton on Decem...
These talks - well, interviews - at Mortimer House seem to be going down really well. We've done two now, with Tony Sylvester and Ethan Newton, and the film of Ethan's interview will be up on Monday. There are some really interesting points in it an...
Our next talk – with Edward Sexton on Decem...
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There is no current plan, sorry Gabriel. He is still recovering. But today we are announcing the next talk, with Rubato...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
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Yes they are. To be honest I should have gone with calf. They look the same, except the cordovan is really tough. Unless you're doing a lot of walking in the rain, I'd go calf. Black or Alden Color 8....
Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age
A reader commented recently that if you don’t feel comfortable in a piece of clothing, it’s clearly not for you and you should move on. While I agree that feeling comfortable in your clothes is important to looking good &#...
Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age
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"...younger is any one below 60" Jack you have become my new favourite commentor. Ian (49 but a child in tailoring years)....
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
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Hi Oscar, Personally no, I wouldn't wear this to a non-formal event, though it does depend how non-formal! If I was going to go tieless, I would probably go with a tonal crewneck sweater underneath and perhaps a silk sca...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect up...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
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I have actually, yes, I used to have a pair. The quality isn't great to be honest, particularly compared to the Baudoin & Lange, and I was never much of a fan of the little bow. But it is a slightly rounded shape than B&...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Oh no, sorry, I mean a washing machine, no need even for a delicate setting. Hand washing is really only needed for knitwear and materials like silks...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
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Nice, I hadn't heard that. Thanks Daniel...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
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The reason they behave differently is nearly entirely the material Noel, with the Finest Polo being stiffer from the twisted yarn. We are making a small change to the collar on the Dartmoor to do something similar, but i...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
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No, I don't think it is, personally...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
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Chris, I’m not sure if that particular distinction came in with C19 or before, but full bespoke or what would now be called Bespoke 1849....
My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ l...
Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of the collection - as I did...
My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ l...
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It's really a question of personal preference. I prefer a tassel, but arguably it is less versatile....
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
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For suits really, or trousers. I wouldn't wear any of the high-twists like this (fresco, crispaire, fox air etc) as separate jackets...
The roll neck
The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...
The roll neck
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I think that could be nice Andy, yes. I think a black and white, or grey, would be the easiest and most versatile, but blue and grey could work too...
How to look after your shoes
This is the first in a series of videos that we will be doing over the coming months, looking at caring for good clothes. They will be instructional, but not too technical, and we plan to build them up slowly over the year - so for example, not try...
How to look after your shoes
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Ah, yes but that will vary a little - sometimes if they've been on display in the shop they will have had some polish on them already...
The Pop-Up Shop is back!
I'm very excited to say that the Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop will be back this winter, opening in two weeks on November 15th. We've switched approach slightly, using a slightly smaller space but staying open much longer (5 weeks) - so hop...
The Pop-Up Shop is back!
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Yes, we have most of the remaining pieces in the pop up....
How to dress for very hot weather
As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
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Thanks for that. Lindsay...
The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton
*UPDATE: Edward Sexton have just confirmed they will producing a ready-to-wear version this Autumn/Winter, probably in flannel, price around £600* One of the more unusual bespoke commissions I made over the past six months was these linen trou...
The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton
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I can't think of a reason why it couldn't, no...
Edward Sexton long overcoat – finished
This is the finished charcoal overcoat from Edward Sexton, and it’s hard to over-estimate how much pleasure it gives me. It’s a very different feeling from my navy Cifonelli coat. That is practical, every day, an anonymous touch of lu...
Edward Sexton long overcoat – finished
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I haven't Mark, but I would worry that if they were actual vents, the coat might flap open rather a lot - these are pleats rather than vents, in that they're not actually open...
Edward Sexton long, grey overcoat
Last summer, Edward Sexton and I were sitting in the gardens of the Four Seasons hotel, Florence. It was a beautiful evening. Warm, with a light breeze, scattered groups sitting at the tables and wandering across the lawn. The conversation turned ...
Edward Sexton long, grey overcoat
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Absolutely....
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
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Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...
Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit
Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the formal attire of cho...
Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit
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Smith's Luxury Flannels...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
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Thanks Chris. There is a post covering it here....
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
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Yes it is, and of several other Savile Row tailors. Usually just on the back pocket though, given no buttons on the trousers are visible elsewhere. I always liked it as a small decorative touch....
