On the Permanent Style shop we're gradually moving more things into constant stock, as the size of the audience supports it.
One of the things that had been unavailable for a while was the Everyday Denim fabric, an exclusive fade-as-you-wear denim made for us by Albini in Italy.
It is back in stock now - 160 lengths of 2 metres each - designed to be bought and sent to a shirtmaker, wherever they may be.
Everyday Denim has been one of the more popular things on the PS shop since it was set up, partly because it is exclusive and partly - I think - because it is so practical.
Bespoke yet casual, fine yet quickly worn in, it brings tailoring effortlessly into a modern wardrobe.
I have two shirts in it, a tall-collared spread and a button-down, both from Luca Avitabile in Naples, and they have become my default - with oxfords only succeeding to that position with jeans.
The spread collar is pictured top, under a Huntsman tweed jacket, and the button-down below, under a Disguisery tweed.
Of course, since the introduction of Everyday Denim we have also introduced a lighter-coloured version as well, intended to be much more similar to a standard business-shirt blue.
I have both and do like playing with them in different combinations - often the Everyday Denim with stronger, warmer colours and the Lighter Denim with colder, smarter ones.
The former looks more like a standard denim shirt, while the latter will look like a standard corporate poplin until close up.
The Lighter Denim is also the only one I'd ever with jeans in a double-denim scenario (and that separated by something else in between, such as a shetland crewneck).
Below is a shot that shows the two alongside each other. Both are available on the shop.
For those new to Everyday Denim, below is a summary of the story so far.
Do please be aware, as well, that Albini has a similar-looking denim as part of their Victoria range, but this was the replacement for ours and does not fade in the same way.
- 'Everyday Denim' is so-called because it can be made into a denim shirt a modern man can wear every day, in all but the most formal office environments.
- It uses a shirting from Albiate (part of the Albini group) that is exclusive to Permanent Style. This is a re-weaving of a cloth that was discontinued by Albini because it faded over time, and was disliked by mainstream customers.
- I liked that fading effect because it meant a shirt could be made bespoke, yet still gain the faded look of a garment-washed ready-to-wear denim shirt. This is otherwise not possible with denim.
- The cloth is a cotton twill, using 60/2 yarn in the warp and 120/2 in the weft. Being 2-ply is significant with denim, as most brands use cheap, single-ply yarn for denims - but 2-ply softens and wears better.
- Everyday Denim is sold in 2m lengths that should be sufficient for most men (up to around 6 foot 4) to have made into a bespoke shirt.
- Finished shirts in the cloth are also available, but currently out of stock. These should be back in a month or so.
- If you would like the fabric sent straight to a shirtmaker, just put their address for the delivery when making an order, and alert them that it will be coming.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson
Who made the grey wool flannels you’re wearing with the Huntsman jacket?
Panico
Will there be restocks of the made up shirts?
Yes – should be at the end of January Ricky
“Simon liked that fading effect”. Since when did you start either referring to yourself in the 3rd person or getting other people to write PS articles?
Good point. That was taken from the shop site, which is deliberately not written in my first-person voice. I’ll change it now.
Simon i’m Sure it is beautifully made, but that Huntsman jacket really does need to find its way to the nearest charity shop.
Even as a shooting suit, it is still just too much.
Thanks. I still wear it, though certainly not regularly
No one would ever dare show up to a shoot in this jacket…
Hi Simon,
I have only just come upon this website after I found an article you wrote on shawl collar cardigans on the Drake’s website. I am going to purchase one on the back of your article. However, I’m looking for advice on sizing before I buy it. I am a size 36R in suits, 5ft 10 in height. What size would you recommend? 36, 38 or 40. I am unsure if they run small or large.
Thanks,
Mark
If my experience is anything to do by, I think you’ll be able to wear both a 36 and a 38. The former will be shorter in the body but a neater fit through the waist, while the latter will be roomier and slouchier. Both will look nice – just different styles. I liked a 38 and 40 in that regard, but went for the 38 in the end as I already had something slouchier
Simon, you mention wearing one of these as “double denim” with a “Shetland crew neck” but why not a Smedley fine gauge crew neck out of interest?
That could work as well. My point was just that I’d want something between the two denims. A shetland might be slightly more suited to the casual texture of jeans than a fine merino, but it’s marginal
What do you think about suits made out of a descreet herringbone pattern cloth?
They can be really nice.
Something like my Caraceni here for instance?
if combining it with a dark green chino suit for example, do you think it is better to go for a dark or lighter denim shirt?
Both would work nicely with dark green like that – but the lighter denim would probably suit more colours of tie, if you plan to wear one
Hello Simon and readers,
I hope you’re all having a good start to the new year.
Could I have your opinion/recommendation as to who you think is the overall best shirt maker in London at the moment?
Many thanks
Joel
I think we’d need more detail Joel, it’s a big question. Eg are you aware of the differences between English and Italian shirtmakers, and if so do you have preference?
I just assumed you were going to choose someone English as I mentioned London. I know very little regarding the differences between English and Italian makers. Correct me if I’m wrong but I though the main difference really is that Italian shirts tend to have more hand sewing rather than machine sewing which makes the joints move more freely. I have one Luigi Borelli shirt RTW and it’s lovely.
I also don’t speak Italian and didn’t think there were any Italian shirtmakers in England?
Hand stitching is an important difference, yes, but so is style in the collars and cuffs, and the lightweight fused linings. The latter are why I only largely use Italians.
As to London, lots of Italians visit here regularly – I recommend Simone Abbarchi, Luca Avitabile and D’Avino for three very different price levels and amounts of hand work. Plenty on the site about them if you have a look
Thanks Simon, I will check them out, I want full bespoke but at a good price. I don’t mean full bespoke at £100 a shirt but at I had contacted Battistoni when they were here last and they started at €450 which I thought was too much.
With regards to mainly using the Italians, who have you been happiest with?
If you were going to use an English maker, who would you use?
I’ve been happy with all of them to be honest, though use Luca Avitabile most regularly. He also comes the most often.
Among English shirtmakers, probably Budd.
Thanks Simon,
I really appreciate your thoughts.