Everyday Denim shirts available
I know I'm biased, but this shirt made in the Everyday Denim cloth we developed with Albiate/Albini last year is now easily my favourite.
It has faded slowly and nicely, while stopping short of bleaching completely. The fading around the cuffs, placket, sleevehead and collar are subtle, but distinct - unmistakable up close but invisible at a distance.
After around 25 washes it is still fading, but very slowly, almost settling on a final patina.
If I could, I'd wear it pretty much every day.
My daily uniform is usually an open-necked shirt, flannels or cavalry twills, with a jacket or shawl-collared knitwear over the top - and the Everyday Denim shirt goes with all of it.
It's smart enough for a navy blazer, and casual enough for a vintage-style RRL shawl. The button-down collar is cut to frame the face, but also have enough curl to sit around a tie if needs be.
And of course it's nice that it's unique to Permanent Style.
A new batch of the shirts, in sizes S to XL, is now available on the Shop site.
I've deliberately included images here of my shirt to give readers an idea of how it fades over time.
And of course, as always the shirts are made by Luca Avitabile in Naples and have several hand-stitching steps. Both the practical (hand-attached collar, hand-attached sleeve) and the aesthetic (hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached buttons).
There is no denim cloth to buy on its own at the moment, as that had its second batch at the end of last year. We will do another one, but not for a couple of months.
I should say, by the way, that a couple of readers that don't have access to a shirtmaker have e-mailed saying they darted their Everyday Denim shirts.
The nice thing about a shirt (compared to a jacket) is that it can be darted quite deeply and almost from top to bottom, significantly changing the shape through the chest, waist and hips.
If anyone is going to do this, do make sure to buy the right size for your neck and shoulders, given you can adjust much of the rest.
For anyone that is new to the Everyday Denim shirts, here's a summary:
- 'Everyday Denim' is so-called because it is a denim shirt a man in a modern office can wear every day. It is made in the same pale-blue colour as a regular office shirt but rendered more casual by its denim texture.
- It uses a denim shirting from Albiate (part of the Albini group) that is exclusive to Permanent Style. A re-weaving of a cloth that wasn't commercial enough for mainstream stores because of its fading, but perfectly suits more advanced PS readers.
- The shirts are made by Neapolitan bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, using several stages of hand-stitching to give it more of a bespoke fit (eg a smaller, hand-sewn armhole)
- The buttons are flat, yellowed mother-of-pearl in order to give a vintage look to the shirt, which suits the fading denim
- And the button-down collar is a style I developed with Luca on my bespoke shirts. It curves subtly outwards when worn open, rolling around the collar of the jacket and framing the face; but when the shirt is buttoned up, it also has enough shape to curve around a tie knot, rather than sitting flat against the body.
- The cloth is a cotton twill, using 60/2 yarn in the warp and 120/2 in the weft. Being 2-ply is significant with denim, as most brands use cheap, single-ply yarn for denims - but 2-ply softens and wears better.
- Everyday Denim shirts are slightly more expensive than the Friday Polos, reflecting the exclusivity of the cloth, at £180 (ex-VAT).
- Ships from the UK.
The full, original post on Everyday Denim can be found here.
Shirts available here.
Sizing:
Chest | Waist | Yoke | Neck | Sleeve length | Body length | |
Small | 100cm | 94 | 45 | 37 | 64 | 79 |
Medium | 108 | 100 | 47 | 39 | 66 | 81 |
Large | 116 | 108 | 49 | 41 | 68 | 83 |
Extra large | 124 | 116 | 51 | 43 | 70 | 85 |
- At top, Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket, with...
- Ambrosi MTM linen trousers (on Bryceland's Co model)
- Glove-and-coat shot, all details on last week's post here.
Photography: Portrait image, Jamie Ferguson; other images, Permanent Style
Hi Simon
First, these shirts are just fantastic. I got one and immediately bought another of the last run. They have easily become my most frequently worn shirts. Should probably get more while they are available. At this price point they are an excellent value. Well done Simon.
I have a question, slightly off topic. In a previous post I think you have mentioned that you might do a collaboration on linnen shorts for this spring. Is that still on the agenda?
So pleased to hear that Kristian.
No, we don’t have any plans for linen shirts – not sure where I said that? Do let me know!
Thanks
Ha ha, linen shorts, not shirts. I went back and found it in an answer to a reader question under “What I pack when I travel”. You said you were considering a PS version tailored linen shorts.
Sorry, misread!
Yes we are probably going to be doing some shorts, though likely in a cotton or cotton/linen mix
Any chance you will be offering just the denim cloth for sale again?
Thanks
Hey. As mentioned in the post, no not for a while. We’re trying to do one batch of each, in turns
Hi Simon,
This have been my favourite shirt for a while too.
One thing that I think it’s spot on is the interlining. It’s soft but mantains the shape of the collar perfectly. I’d like to order the same type of interlining thorough my shirtmaker next time because the ones he usually puts are thicker, do you know how this interlining could be described?
Thanks in advance!
Hey Nestor,
No – I can ask, but most of the time they really just vary in weight rather than anything else, so a lighter weight one should work well.
S
That would be great, thanks!
Simon
A bit confused on sizing… I am a 15.5 in collar and 35 in sleeve (size 40 chest) where (roughly) would that put me? 35in seems to be about 90 cm for sleeves so really doesn’t line up!
It’s because there are two different ways of measuring sleeve length. Your measure of 35in is from the centre of the yoke; ours is the length of the sleeve itself. We prefer this because it’s a bit more instinctive, and easier to measure for customers.
You would probably be a medium on those measurements. Thanks
Great!
I really love this shirt. I chose the option of buying the cloth and having Luca tailor it based on my pattern.
Will we be able to order short sleeved friday polos for the summer?
We’re looking at it now Carl. Hopefully be able to confirm in a month or so
This shirt is an absolute winner.
Can we have the same in grey and in dark blue ?
Regards,
DRC
Well, we’d have to find a cloth as nice… but we can give it a go
Maybe a nice light flannel would do it ?
I bought a grey flannel from Dunhill about three years ago – that cloth would be perfect.
Of course, the cloth is crucial but the cut and collar design is what makes it the 100% essential.
Just foryour info, I wear the EDD with my A&S cord suits without a tie and they stand up perfecty.
Hi Simon, great shirts these. I had Luca make me a shirt with the same collar but different cloth. I might look at a denim for the Spring.
Do you know what cloth Ambrosi uses for that particular trouser you are wearing? I would like something similar.
many thanks!
Thanks Taka.
It’s the W Bill 12/13oz linen, although I’m not sure the shade is carried any more
Hi Simon,
Hopefully you can offer some advice about size. I’ve bought a RTW brushed cotton shirt (slim fit) in size XXL (neck: 17.0 chest: 43) recently from Luca Faloni and find it fits me well. What size would you suggest for the everyday denim?
Thanks
You’d be an extra large. Thanks
Sorry to bother with sizing again:
My XL, (42) regular fit, Luca Faloni is just ok around the chest (118 cm), so your “L” with 116 seems to tight, while “XL” with 124 cm might be to baggy! Any advice?
Well, sizes are never going to match up exactly, and you might end up between sizes. On those calculations I would suggest going for L, but you can always take both and return one of them (returns are fine as long as they are still in a sellable condition)
How does VAT and shipping figure into international orders (USA)?
Thanks!
VAT is not included – like shipping, it is added at checkout depending on your location. If you go through the process you can see a calculation for both at the end.
Cheers
Patina? On cloth? Grief.
How can you describe cloth as having a patina? Patina is a layer that sits on top of something, Like leather, or copper, or stone.
Thanks. Strictly speaking it does, you’re right, though it’s often used for any form of fading, darkening or changes in the colour of a surface.
Open to suggestions of a better word, but I think the meaning is clear
Know what you mean.
Weathered might work.
Wouldn´t washed out be correct? But patina sounds better I guess.
Simon, thank you. Order placed, fits a gap in my wardrobe. Look forward to wearing it hard.
Can’t say I like the shirt Simon. Packets and button down collars are two of my pet hates. I love the gloves so that’s a hit for me.
On a vaguely related note, would you trust any of these online laundry companies with a shirt like this? I’ve realised life is too short for ironing. However, at the same time all of my shirts are bespoke and don’t want them to be ruined.
No, to be honest I wouldn’t.
I wash and iron them all myself, but at the most get someone who will iron them but also wash them carefully and not tumble dry.
We need an article on how to iron a shirt!
I have been using this guide to ironing shirts for some time and love it: https://lavraiechemisesurmesure.blogspot.com/2009/02/comment-repasser-une-chemise.html?m=1
This looks rather labor intensive…
I share your affection for denim shirts, Simon. They perform well in my work environment — particularly with woven ties and sports-jackets. Yours is a fine-looking shirt and I’d love to buy one (and a polo, too), but I’m a 17.5-18″ neck sitting above a 46″ chest. Any chance of generating runs of size XXLs in your shirts?
Hi John. We might do a special run at some stage, yes, but last time we did there wasn’t a great take-up. You may have to wait for the denim cloth and have that made up
On the washing point Simon, how do you do yours? Low temp? No spin? Your advice most welcome!
Low temp, 30 degrees, but don’t worry too much about spin. Most important thing is to hang dry
Hi Simon,
I received my shirt today: I have a 40 inch chest / 34 waist, and the large fits me perfectly (I prefer my shirts to be slightly looser than the current slim fit trend). I definitely think it would be worthwhile offering this shirt style in other colours and fabrics in future: perhaps a more casual range, such as other shades of blue denim, or brushed cottons for autumn?
Thanks,
Paul
Thank you Paul. We’ll certainly consider it, though I generally tend to focus on pieces that are unique to us in more ways
Have noticed any of the stitching fray after washing it 25 times?
Not yet, no
I take a 16.5 shirt collar, what size Denim shirt would I need to order ?? thank you….
Probably a Large – have a look at the neck measurement and covert to inches
thank you, understood and just ordered one…
Simon. Would it be easy to alter the shirt as whilst the chest will fit the waist will be loose? Thanks.
Yes David – please see the text in the post, where I talk about readers successfully doing this with darts
Got one in a L. Easy sell and it’s nice shirt, good job.
Hi Simon
Do you have a recommendation for a tailor/shirtmaker to dart the shirt in London? The large is perfect on my chest and shoulders but very big on the waist.
Many thanks
I use Graham Browne, near Bank
Dear Simon, my shirt arrived yesterday and and I love the fabric, its weight and colour but unfortunately find the collar to high for my taste, could you tell me how I go about organising a return please. thank you Ian,
Ah, that’s a shame. Please email me and I’ll set it up.
Thank you, if you could let me know how to proceed I would be very grateful as I am going away in a day or so and would like to get it sorted soon, thanks Ian.
No problem Ian. We offer either a courier pick-up of the shirt, or a pre-paid label that you can put on the package and drop off at a service point.
I just need you to email me and I’ll put you in contact with our logistics operator, who will arrange it all.
Thanks
Hi Simon,
Great shirts, but was actually going to ask where can I get a suede blazer like the one you’re wearing in the picture at the top of this page? Thanks!
Thanks. It’s a bespoke piece from Parisian tailors Cifonelli
This question has probably been asked and answered concerning the denim shirt but…15.5 neck and 38 chest. Is this a small or a medium? Thanks
Probably medium – pretty similar to me
Dear Simon, I have sent a couple of emails re a return, with no luck, could you please just post the returns address here and I will post the shirt myself today as i am going away soon, thank you Ian Mazur.
Hi Ian,
I’m sorry to hear that, have you been using info@permanentstyle.co.uk? I haven’t seen any emails come through.
If you want to send it directly, rather than have us set up a courier for you, the address is:
Permanent Style
The Retail Distribution Company Ltd.
(C/o Space Maker Trading)
11 Bryant Avenue
Romford, Essex
RM3 0AP
UK
tel: +44 7984 316683
Hello Simon
This is a wonderfull shirt and the fit is superb. However I find the arms to be very long. I had anticipated that they might shrink a little after washing but this doesn’t seem to be the case.
Is there anyone you could recommend who could shorten the arms in a sympathetic way without loosing too much of the hand stiched charm? Thanks.
Sorry to hear that Darryl, and no all the cloth is pre-shrunk so there shouldn’t be any changs.
Most shirtmakers or alterations tailors should be able to shorten from the cuff – there is no handwork there. I use Graham Browne in London
I’ve just received one and love it– great cut, collar, colour, and looking forward to the evolving blue as it fades. However, the size L on me fits nearly too well– all buttoned up it’s exactly at the slim limit around my neck and wrists, sleeves on the short end of ‘long enough’. I believe I’ve learned all I need by reading these posts, but forgive me, Simon, for seeking succinct summary: the fabric is pre-washed? As long as I launder cold and hang dry, I don’t need to exchange it for an XL?
Hey Jon,
Yes, it’s pre-washed and shouldn’t shrink.
Cheers
hey simon is there any difference between darting the shirts and taking in the seams from the side? I generally prefer a clean back. My actual chest and waist are 38 and 32 inch. The chest looks good but the waist is too big.
It will usually be easier for a shirtmaker to dart it; and darts control the shape more in the middle of the back, rather than through the sides. That sounds obvious, but it makes a significant difference to how the shirt hangs and feels.
Simon what do you think of adding side darts to denim shirt in general? Does it go against the overall more casual nonchalant feel of the shirt? I have broad shoulder but small waist so tend to find rtw denim shirt to have too much fabric at my waist
I can see why someone might think that, but no I don’t have a problem with doing it at all
Hi
What size would You recommend?
My Rtw shirts from i.e. drakes are size 15.
Small or medium? I am 5,7, rather slim and I seldom wear a tie. I read that You would use a medium ? So small or
Hi Frank,
It sounds like you might be a medium based on neck size. I would suggest comparing the measurements on the shop site to the shirts you already have though – that’s the safest way to avoid having to exchange later.
Cheers
Thanks, yes I will try to measure a shirt .
I am used to go for the smallest size everytime I buy clothes, so small would have been my first choice per default?
Hi Simon, I have your blue PS Oxford shirt and was wondering how the Everyday denim and chambray shirts differ to the Oxford in terms of formality?
I thought the denim would be more casual; is that fair to say? And how does the chambray compare to the denim in terms of formality? I am trying to justify the number of blue PS shorts I want to buy!
Many thanks.
Always a struggle.
The denim is more casual, yes. But at the same time, it is designed to be a smart version of a denim shirt – a smart shirt that has that slight texture and fading – so it’s not a lot more casual.
The chambray is more casual again, definitely, because of the colour primarily. It’s also most different to the other two in that respect.
If what you’re looking for is a shirt that is most different to the oxford, I’d go with the chambray.