The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock. Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently.
As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know they have been going for a while and many readers have several already, we have concentrated on more unusual ones.
So we have:
- reproduced the brown Friday Polo, which was a relative newcomer to the selection
- done a run of white, which hasn’t been available for a year and readers have consistently asked for
- kept navy, as it is always the most popular
- and added a new colour: olive
The olive, pictured here, is a subtler and more muted cousin of the original green.
It is perhaps a more sophisticated colour, which I find works nicely with mid-blue denim or cream chinos, and under navy, tan or brown jackets.
In these images I am wearing it with my brown Harris-tweed jacket from Elia Caliendo, and Levi’s bespoke jeans. The pocket square is cream cashmere from Anderson & Sheppard.
Recently, I’ve found a few readers have enquired about Friday Polos and not been aware of the handwork that goes into them, in the workshop in Naples.
I think this is important to emphasise, because it’s something that separates them from most other models out there, and makes them considerably more expensive to produce.
There are five points of handwork, with the most important being the functional one - inserting the sleeve into the armhole by hand.
Doing this enables the maker to get greater fullness into the top of the sleevehead, yet have a relatively small armhole.
It enables greater movement (just as it does in bespoke tailoring) and makes it easier to wear under tailoring, which of course was the aim of the project in the first place.
You can see the handwork on the outside in the prick stitches around the armhole (above). And more obviously on the inside.
The other points of handwork are aesthetic. Nice to see and know about, but without any effect on how the polo wears.
Those are: hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached buttons, hand-finished placket and hand-sewn gusset.
If anyone isn't familiar with the Friday Polo, below is a quick summary.
Sizing information is available on the polo page of the shop site too.
- The project was launched with Neapolitan bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, who has been making my shirts for a few years.
- The idea was to make the perfect polo shirt to wear under tailoring, using the best materials and where possible the same make as Luca’s bespoke shirts.
- Everything is hand cut, with five points of handwork.
- We use a mid-weight Caccioppoli pique-cotton fabric, good for three months of the year (in England), which is more substantial and luxurious than most piques.
- Stand collar, like a shirt, to help it sit under tailored jackets
- Long tail and front, as it is designed to be worn tucked in
- Mother of pearl buttons
- Slots in the collar for shirt-stays
- Sold at below normal retail price. With a standard retail mark-up these would be closer to £250. Prices quoted ex-VAT, as most customers are outside the EU
- Four sizes: Small, Medium, Large and Extra-large (see table below for dimensions)
- Shirts will not shrink when washed, but should expand slightly in the waist. Do wash cool and line dry
- Shipping by courier, from the UK
- Available from the shop page here. Details on returns and exchanges here
All images: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Ironically I placed an order on Luca’s site yesterday for the olive one, along with a sand which looks quite nice on their instagram. Both will be heavily rotated with cream and navy trousers.
I must say though I don’t fully agree with the statement that they don’t shrink. They all come out noticeably tighter and shorter after a 30 degree delicate cycle compared to when they are first delivered. I usually solve this stretching the body and sleeves a bit before hanging.
On that topic, I noticed Luca’s site says washing in 40 degrees. Are you doing that as well Simon or are you keeping them to 30 or lower?
Thanks – interesting, I haven’t found mine to shrink. I would recommend a 30 degree wash though (and I presume you aren’t tumble drying)
Thanks. I’ll keep washing them at 30. And no, naturally no tumble drying.
As mentioned I’ve started to stretch them a bit while wet which does the trick quite nicely. I have all colors except grey, and I enjoy them all immensely. Considering the grey as well, have hold off so far since I haven’t thought of it as quite as versatile as the others, but I’m coming around.
Hi Simon, any plans/news on the short sleeves version?
We don’t have a precise date yet, but it will be before the summer.
Dear Simon,
Your website is truly excellent- well done. From a prior post I understand you wear this Friday Polo in size Medium and the same for the Every Denim (I think).
Could I ask how tall you are? Although I am fairly slim (chest and waist dimensions of a medium appear to suit) I am also 6ft 3” and so wonder if perhaps I am best off with a Large. If you are also 6ft+ it would give me more confidence to order a medium both in the polo and the everyday denim.
Hi Ed,
Thanks. Yes, I wear a medium in the Polo. My Everyday Denim is actually bespoke, but I would still probably wear a medium. I’m just over 6 foot tall – 6 and half an inch if you’re being precise. However, height isn’t a great guide to arm length – I’d recommend comparing the sleeve length stated on the site to one you currently wear. And bear in mind that you can dart a larger shirt to give it more shape in the waist, but you can’t lengthen the sleeve much.
Hey Simon, just wanted to ask about the arm hole opening measurement. I’m a short guy at 5’8 and I have slightly bigger arms and often size up due to them. My measurements point to a medium but I just wanted to see if you had the armhole measurements for a M or L so I could make a better decision.
Hey. No I don’t, let me ask
Hooray! Very late I know, but I’ve finally joined the party and have ordered a white and a brown. Please don’t tempt me with the navy.
Hi Simon,
Would it be ok to dart the Friday Polo – to reduce the chest and waist?
Yes. Not quite as easy as a shirt, but fine to do
Hi Simon,
I recently bought the Every Day Denim shirt in XL. The yoke, collar and sleeve length were spot on but have had to dart and take in significantly in the chest and waist.
What size would you suggest would be best for me in the Friday Polo?
Hmm. Well, the polo has got a lot more stretch, so you might be ok with a large. I’d try that first, particularly given you’ll never button it up at the collar
Simon,
I’m trying to order the olive in large but the cart/ check – out function isn’t working in the shop section.
Regards,
David
That’s strange David, we haven’t seen any other issues. Please email me with the details and I’ll look into it
What’s best way to alter if the sleeves are too long?
From the cuff will be easiest
It appears that the large-size (and XL-size) olive polos are already sold out. Any chance they’ll be re-stocked in this run?
No, sorry
From the photo, the Olive looks more like Mint Green. Is this accurate? In any event, I prefer the darker green from years past. Any chance we will see that green in this batch or future ones? Finally, can the sleeves be shortened by a tailor?
I’d say it’s a touch stronger in colour than the images – not quite so pale – but otherwise it’s pretty accurate.
We will certainly repeat the dark green in the future, yes.
Hello Simon ,
I have been trying since long to ask you about any contact to buy (only material) of best suiting and shirting and have commented as well.
It would be your great help if you can help me with some good/premium suppliers of suiting and shirting.
Do you mean as a consumer, for yourself, or to order in volume as a brand or shirtmaker?
Simon,
I would like to have a breast pocket, is that possible?
Not really Herman, sorry
ohh… navy and olive in Large already sold out… that went fast!
Yes I know. We make more each time and each time they sell faster!
Olive one is simply great – but unfortunately also already sold out – think you have support for another run (or a few).
Thanks for helping us lift the bar.
Hi Simon, I would like you to give me some advice when building a wardrobe. I have read you articles about building such thing, but seem to find myself wanting a wardrobe consisting of only one style, while being interested in different styles. I really like how Stoffa and Saman Amel looks, but on the other hand i really like Drake’s. One thing to add is that I’m a student whom are unable to buy everything in a get-go, and the daily suiting is too formal in most cases for me. I’m sorry for my english and for the rather complicated issue, but I hope that you could give me some good thoughts on the help!
No problem. Perhaps start with whichever is most suited to your daily life – eg do you really need a jacket and tie? – and then start slowly. Given your budget, you’ll have lots of time to work out which you really prefer. And start with basics, like grey flannels or casual shirts, that might cross over styles
Thank you Simon. I’m unsure of my future as I’m graduating and have yet to be informed whether i get into Law School or not. I will probably follow you advice, and buy some staples which could be used with different styles. As a matter of fact, I got my first suit today and have already delivered it to the tailor!
Simon,
I have the short sleeve Friday Polo in medium and that is a touch too tight (particularly after it’s been washed) and a touch too short. Will the long sleeved version be the same sizing wise so that I would be better off with a large?
Thanks,
S
Do you think large would work better for me here?
Thanks,
S
Sorry for not replying earlier. Yes, the sizing is the same – although the body is a little longer so you shouldn’t have an issue there
Hi Simon,
Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, but who made the jacket you’re wearing in the first photo? And would it be possible to have one made?
Sorry Simon, disregard my last query now seen it in the commentary above – brown Harris tweed jacket from Elia Caliendo!
Oh good, pleased you saw it
Simon – perhaps the answer is in the style of the polo but my assumption was that Luca Avitabile always used the classic Neapolitan shoulder, whereas for the Friday polo this doesn’t appear to be the case? If asked, would Luca create a non-polo shirt without a Neapolitan shoulder or would that be committing the sin of asking a tailor to work outside their own style, ie they might do it, but the results are less likely to please?
There isn’t really a Neapolitan shoulder for shirts – the only obvious thing is the number of wrinkles at the top, and that varies a lot between makers. D’Avino puts in far more than Luca on his bespoke, for example.
I haven’t asked Luca to change the style here on bespoke shirts, but if he did, the results would not have the risk you describe – it’s not like cutting a whole new lapel shape
That’s great to know. Had been really tempted to approach Luca for my first bespoke shirts but my only hesitation was that I wasn’t fond of the shoulder wrinkles.
Hello Simon.
Would love to buy one of those – unfortunately my size is out of stock… 🙁 well maybe in the next
run I am lucky. Meanwhile I have a question: I am going to Naples with some friends this summer
and we would very much like to visit a small factory such as the one where the Friday Polo’s are
made. It would be so interesting to see the manufacturing process first hand and not only the
finished article. Could you please tell me the name of the factory so that I can get in contact with them.
Thanks a lot
Lucas
Hi Lucas,
No I’m afraid not – those kind of visits aren’t normally that welcomed at the factories, particularly when they’re not representing a single brand that is then interested in marketing.
Hi Simon,
In anticipation of the upcoming polo batch, would you say navy, then grey, are the two most versatile colors? How about white?
Probably, yes. Though it depends what you wear generally – eg white will be smarter, nice with a blazer and flannels for example, not so good with jeans
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
I took another look at the polo measurements and would like to hear your thoughts. I have a 102 cm chest, 80 cm waist, and a 60 cm sleeve length. So far, it seems like I am a small, or maybe a medium if I wanted a more roomy fit, granted I would take in everything.
However…my shoulders/yoke are 48 cm!!! When I bought the size M PS Oxford, I had to take the waist in quite aggressively. The chest and shoulders are tight, so I should’ve gone for a size L. Based on my measurements, do you suggest I take a size L for the polo and then dart it? I care intensively about fit so if you think the end result will be subpar I may have to consider bespoke.
Hi Bernie,
I’d go for a Medium in the polo. You’ll find the fit easier because the pique has such natural stretch.
Also, we’ll be having a size run in a couple of places available to try for size, so you can do that
S
Hi simon, I’m currently looking to an olive trouser to my wardrobe. I’m wondering if a darker green (dark olive) or a lighter shade (paler and closer to army green) is generally more useful to pair with dark brown and navy jackets?
Paler will be more useful with those jackets probably: increases the contrast. But if you think they’re so dark that there’s enough contrast even with a dark green, then just go on which colour you like most
Enjoying the Friday polo very much. I like the neat fit around the chest, though I may try to have the sleeves shortened just a bit. One issue: I’m finding that the middle button, and sometimes the bottom button as well, comes undone on its own as I wear the shirt. The shirt fits closely, but it’s not overly tight. I may just surrender to the casual look of the two open buttons, but I’m wondering if there’s a way to make the buttons stay put. Any reports of this issue? Suggestions? Thanks.
Yes we have had occasionally had this, though more usually on those that wear it quite tight across the chest. The looseness and softness of the fabric is the main cause, but we are making the buttonholes slightly smaller on future versions.
If you want to, one way to avoid it is to sew a little stitch at one end of the buttonhole yourself, closing the buttonhole a tiny bit. You shouldn’t have to, but it is an option