Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap.
Non-English cloth merchants tend towards the lighter and softer, often sacrificing body and drape, and that’s exactly what these are. Then again, moleskins rarely retain much of a line, and these are very comfortable.
Green trousers, from olive to forest, work well with all sorts of jackets – navy, grey, brown. And of course are a lovely foil to a highly polished brown shoe.
The fit from Calvo de Mora is as good as it gets for a flat-fronted cotton trouser, particularly given how heavily I use the pockets (with my hands, not accessories). Strap and buckle nicely done, and placed on the seam where I like them.
The only odd thing about the make is that Calvo uses synthetics (like a jacket lining) for the pocket bag, which I dislike. You don’t want a cold and slippery material in a pocket – it should be warm and robust.
Photos taken in Al Bazar in Milan, with the lovely Gianpaolo (below) attempting to photobomb the shot.
Dark-brown bespoke Oxfords from Cleverley; pale grey shirt from Luca Avitabile; charcoal wool tie from Panta Clothing.
On the issue of pockets, what can we store and where? I often dont take out a briefcase but have keys, phone and wallet. is this too much?
Yes – I’d never carry any of those in my pockets. Just my hands and perhaps change if there is a separate, inserted section in the pocket. You need a jacket or a bag…
Fabulous green Simon and what a lucious looking fabric.
I am a little surpised they have a rear pocket – is this a usual request and if so why? I find such pockets break the length at the rear but then it perhaps works on the slimmer and taller figure such as yourself?
Bradley
I rarely use the pockets, but I generally don’t like the look of a trouser without any hip pockets. It’s purely a question of style.
I only have one, though, and buttoned not flapped.
No pockets on higher cut or braced trousers.
Hi Simon very nice indeed. Would it work as a suit?
Yes, possibly
Simon. Is it the photo, or are they lower in the front than the back!
Look a bit loose.
Nice colour though. F
Very hard to tell much from the photos really. But yes, they are slightly lower in front I think. Many tailors insist that the waistband should be horizontal, but it simply doesn’t work on some people – your hips are never level, and if you have a particularly hollow lower back, like me, they always slip and are uncomfortable.
Quite a few tailors have tried to make me trousers on that basis, and it doesn’t work.
Agree 100% with Simon Crompton. The best fitting pants I’ve ever tried in this respect are tailored by Jacob Cohen (yes, the – wonderful – jeans manufacturer who happens to tailor also cotton pants out of this world in terms of fit and confort) and they all have that signature asymmetric waistband, and even more pronounced. In their factory, they even have a machine designed specifically for doing just that. Horizontal waistband is a no go.
Simon
Lovely trousers. I was wondering if there is a reason that you don’t post prices? I know it is rather gauche to broadcast how much you are spending on clothes, but for readers that need introductions to tailors, or are contemplating pieces, prices do help quite a lot!
G
Of course, sorry. It’s usually because it’s a few months since I paid (and then, in two installments, beginning and end). I’ll double check
“Attempting to photobomb” I would say he’s been extremely successful! Those are very nice trousers Simon, I have a pair in a similar cloth from Loro Piana, they are probably my most versitile Autumn/Winter trousers. I have invested in a few bespoke trousers but to be honest with places like A+S haberdashery I am not sure it is aways necessary, I would be interested in your view.
It’s certainly less needed than jackets. I think it depends on whether you have any problems with fit generally, and if there are any styles you want that you can’t find
Hi Simon,
More or less formal – green cords or green moleskin?
Pretty close. Moleskin at a pinch, but usually depends more on particular cloth and colour
Thinking man’s jeans. Cords, moleskins, cotton chinos. No crease. So much smarter (and original) than jeans.
There’s a certain age too when jeans just don’t look right anymore. Maybe about 40 – 50? I love seeing cool teens in cotton chinos. Look around the tube carriage on a weekend. Nearly everyone is wearing the same boring blue jeans. I’m as guilty as anyone and am currently banishing them from my wardrobe!
It’s a complete fallacy to say jeans are comfortable. The poor fit and all that double stitching…..ouch!
Jeans are comfortable in a different way, Mac. More structured cloths mould to your body where others drape. It’s that moulding that people normally mean when they say jeans are comfortable
What weight is the cloth? And what weight do you generally recommend for cotton trousers?
Simon
I am thinking about getting a jacket or two made. What do you think of double breasted, but with 1 x 1 button placement as it were? Would this be able to work for either black tie or for a jacket? In my head it looks rather rakish but obviously it could just look stupid and be impractical….
I have done it before, but I would t really recommend it. It can look rather odd. Worth looking at 2×2 though, as I did with Poole
Thanks for this Simon.
Excuse me if covered elsewhere – but for odd trouser colour choice after green, where does dark red fall? A close, logical choice or in that mish mash of colours that include burnt orange, purple (cords), salmon etc etc?
Yes, although I never wear any of those colours really. You need to be going for a specific look (quite trad/preppy) and control the rest of your look in accordance with them
Hey Simon! Just wanted to pop by and say that while you’re a huge inspiration and really knowledgeable, I’ve been trawling the comments for quite some time and it would seem that you’re also really patient and polite in your replies. That’s really great to see a(absolutely fantastic, in fact!) and it makes me extra glad to be a reader of this site. Cheers!
I think every #menswear photo needs a photobomb of the sort seen here.
How many wears have these trousers had?
The fit seems mediocre to me. The pockets, as you recognize, flare quite a bit and the upper legs can be more tapered. Given that cotton drapes poorly and is more prone to wrinkling, I prefer a slimmer cut than my ideal for wool trousers.
As per usual, hard to tell much from the pictures. They certainly couldn’t be any tighter in the thighs.
Look great! Can you tell me about the front closure? Extended tab, but is it a clasp? Button fly? What are your preferences in this area?
Extended tab with a clasp, yes. Prefer that although button above the fly. Zip flu always
Hi Simon,
I was wondering how you are washing those trousers. I had a pair of moleskin made by Carbone in Rome and I wonder if I can wash them in the washing machine or by hand to avoid the dreaded dry cleaning.
Thanks
I would always dry clean them… Try to avoid doing it too often by sponging and pressing yourself a little bit.
Generally the damage on trousers from dry cleaning will be less than that on a jacket, however, as there is less 3D shape and structure
Dear Simon, I always feel very comfortable selecting cloth/fabrics for formal/ business wear. But I am having such a hard time find premium material for casual wear. E.g. for my sailing activities I would love to have some bespoke Chinos. Do you have a recommendation for a maker of high end (in terms of grip and feel) yet sturdy (for wear and tear, sun, salt water etc.) Chino cloth? Many thanks … and very inspiring website indeed!!!
Hey. Chinos are very hard to have made bespoke, because the feel you associate with a chino comes from it being garment washed. This is something bespoke tailors aren’t set up to do. You can have cotton trousers made, but they won’t feel like RTW chinos.
Hope that helps
Simon,
Excellent web site. Long time reader here, but first time poster.
Some questions about trousers and trouser fabrics:
1) Going to have some trousers made for business use. Thinking about the fabrics for 4-seasons use. With regards to the various Italian and English fabric mills (Loro Piana and so on), do you rank them in any particular way in terms of the top 5 best for this kind of fabric and why? Or just go with a good mill brand and a fabric I like?
2) How do you feel about side tabs on trousers with dress shirt but sans jacket, for the office context?
Thanks!
Ajay
1) the mill is largely irrelevant. Have a look at my piece on English mills and merchants
2) No problem at all. They look very clean and smart without a jacket
If i want that trouser how could I got…??!!
It’s bespoke, and in a cotton that is probably no longer available. But if you visit a tailor, show them the picture and say you want a green cotton, they should be able to help
Do you remember the price of these trousers Simon?
Is drape defined by the structure/weight of the cloth, how smooth it falls, and whether or not it is prone to wrinkles?
No I don’t remember the price, sorry. Drape in cloth is defined but a lot of things, as a lot of things can affect the nature of cloth, from fibre to yarn to weave to finish. But generally wool will drape best, in a slightly heavier weight, and a slightly denser weave
I meant to ask what you mean when something has drape or has no drape. Thanks
Ah I see, sorry. Cloth that drapes well hangs smoothly and cleanly, without catching or wrinkling much, creating sharp lines
What kind of buttons are these, Simon? And what color?
Do you prefer hooks or buttons inside of your trousers and why? Can you also explain the typical style of waistband you prefer with side adjusters (and why)? Thanks~
On the back pocket of the trouser? That’s a mid-brown horn button with high contrast.
I don’t have a particular preference between hooks and buttons on the inside, but generally like buttons more on the outside (at the end of the waistband).
I prefer a slightly extended waistband ending in a point, but nothing too dramatic.
Have you ever tried tabs inside the trouser? They connect to to the waist (usually with buttons) and hold up the pant, in addition to side adjusters. Are tabs really necessary if you already have side adjusters?
I have found them quite handy but it’s bothersome to remove your trousers…
No I don’t like tabs inside for that reason. I like to adjust them a touch during the day.
Also, I quite like side adjustors as design points – a little shape the tailor can use their creative angles on.
Simon how would you describe the kind of trouser leg you prefer? Is there a trouser you commissioned previously on the site which would illustrate this?
Perhaps on this article?
Hi Simon — Mahesh mentioned that W&S only does side adjusters on the middle of the waistband, instead of completely above it. Reason being that adjusters above the waistband are not as effective as having it in the middle. Is this tailoring aspect true? I see quite a few bespoke tailors do side adjusters above the waistband.
I’ve never found it makes a big difference to how effective they are, as in staying cinched. It’s usually more that tailors have a way that they know works for them, and prefer not to risk changing it. Particularly as the placement of the adjustor should align with the narrowest part of the trouser – so it’s not moving that when you tighten them
Do you remember the trouser weight? Why do you like the side tabs breaking the waistband instead of just above it? If you are shorter, is there an advantage to either look?
I don’t remember the weight no, sorry.
I often like side tabs lower because it means the trousers can sit a touch higher.
If you’re shorter, a belt or turn-ups can shorten the legs slightly. But it’s a minor point
Any particular reason why you didn’t get turn-ups on these, since these trousers are more casual? Turn-ups can look quite nice on more formal trousers as well, I find. But i’m not sure why…?
Just that it was quite a while ago, and I wore turn-ups less then.
Hi Simon, by chance have you taken a look at Huddersfield Fine Worsted Flannel II? I see a 14/15 oz greenish grey swatch and was wondering how the color compares to your Caccioppoli green flannels. The Huddersfield almost passes for grey and it may look a bit too dark but there’s definitely some green. And it’s English!
I haven’t seen that colour no, sorry. However, at that weight I would always go for normal woollen flannel, not worsted. The latter is usually too smooth and loses the feel that is the point of flannel
Thanks for the material tip. It says 100% wool flannel. In that case do I assume that it is woolen and not worsted? The brand is called Huddersfield Fine Worsteds which makes it a bit confusing.
The link is here and it doesn’t designate whether the 51004… series are woolen or worsted:
https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/47
Ignore the name.
And no, wool flannel doesn’t mean woollen flannel. Worsted is short for worsted wool.
Perhaps have a look at our Guide to Cloth if you’re unsure over some of these things.
What you’ve linked to looks like woollen flannel – most flannel is. It would normally say worsted if it was that.
Hi Simon, would you wear dark green/olive cotton trousers with black suede loafers?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes I would, though it would be quite an unusual look
Dear Simon,
what kind of olive/green shade do you prefer?
Brighter or darker shades?
Does is depend on the fabric?
For example I am interested in some darker olive chinos as https://suitsupply.com/en-us/men/trousers/mid-green-porto-chino/B1324.html from Suitsupply or https://antonmeyer.de/detailansicht/chino-nr-6/?attribute_pa_farbe=oliv but I am not sure if these shades are too dark to wear with with a classic sports coat/blazer in navy, brown, tan or grey?
Should I rather stick to classic olive like these: https://www.careofcarl.de/de/incotex-slim-fit-comfort-chinos-olive.html
Have a nice weekend in advance!
Definitely go with darker shades – they’re more classic and elegant, easier to wear, and stand out less.
See here for example on me, for cord in winter. And here for linen in the summer.