An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined.
An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is more likely to rumple and catch on your shirt underneath. Those that have experience basted fittings will know what that’s like – sometimes the friction between cotton and wool can be so much that it is hard to see how the jacket really hangs.
A half-lined jacket restricts that problem to your back, which is less noticeable. And the back is where most men need the ventilation, as the shirt and jacket are so consistently pressed together.
That can be particularly welcome on heavier cloths such as tweed, making them more like three-season garments. Below is an example, a green W Bill tweed jacket being made for Luke (a fellow writer on Gentleman’s Corner) by Graham Browne. Note the curved patch pockets, a particular favourite of his.
On an unlined jacket, the seams can be ‘taped’ with the same material as the lining would have been, creating an opportunity for decoration, or they can be sealed with the same cloth as the jacket.
One example of each shown below: a check number being made for another Graham Browne client, Jeremy, and an old Zegna jacket of mine. Jeremy, again, is a fan of the curved pocket.
I’m going to go for a half-lined jacket in the cloth shown below, a lovely bunch called Sandringham recently released by Hunt & Winterbotham (under the John G Hardy label). The cloth is a cashmere/silk blend and each jacket option is paired with a cotton trouser. Always nice to have suggestions.
I bought a Paul Stuart unlined jacket at a thrift shop. I had never seen an unlined jacket like that. It needed some repairs but it is one of the best jackets I have-all for $8.
are these swatches what you have in mind for the trousers?
No Sam, I’m not going to commission some trousers at the same time.
Simon
Spencer Hart unlined jackets are wonderfully crafted too, so much detailing on them..
i rarely wear unlined jackets like this, just when theres an occasion..i usually wear casuals and sporty jackets.
I’m thinking of getting a jacket made in the Hardy Sandringham fabric, 85% cashmere, 15% wool. Can you comment on how durable this fabric might be for a jacket in the longer term?
Sorry, it’s 85% cashmere, 15% silk.
It’s always going to be more delicate than a wool, but mine has worn pretty well. I probably only wear it once a fortnight and only in the summer though
Hi Simon,
Can you kindly post some pictures of your jacket in Sandringham? I am thinking of getting one for myself in the same cloth. Thanks.
Regards,
Bryan
Not sure I have any I’m afraid… I don’t wear the jacket much any more (just because I much prefer a Neapolitan make for casual and lightweight jackets now)
What colours of pants would you pair with the jacket?
Grey flannels mostly, or tan
Hi Simon, thank you for your very informative posts! I’ve learnt a lot from reading your blog over the years and All that knowledge is now being out to use as I commission my first bespoke suit. There is one dilemma I am facing – the weather is fairly hot here in Singapore, and I am considering going for a half-lined jacket. Is there any compromise as to durability of the outer fabric, or is the difference mainly one of heat control? The suit will be in a fairly lightweight wool and will mainly be used indoors for court. Thanks very much in advance!
Hi Steven.
There might be a small decrease in longevity, but not much. If heat is a big consideration, as I’d imagine it it in Singapore, go with a half lined
Hi Simon. I’m considering ordering an unstructured, unlined (except for sleeves) jacket for holiday travel. I want something that can be stuffed into a fairly tight back pack without worrying about damaging shoulder pads or canvas. I was thinking of trying the jersey wool from Holland and Sherry (J J One). Just wondering what’s your current thinking on travel jackets? Given the limited ability to add ‘shape’ to a unstructured jacket would you tend to advice a safari jacket or something RTW instead?
Thanks.
Hi Alec,
Yes, to be honest if you’re going to treat the jacket like that, then there’s little point having it made bespoke. Try and find a RTW one, or MTM if the proportions don’t fit you that well.
S
Hi Simon,
It might be an older post, yet I think my question fits best here: what is your opinion on when to commission an unlined vs half-lined jacket? I’d be interested particularly in the pros and cons of the front part of the jacket. I like the unlined look, as the same cloth is just “folded”, but not sure whether there is any disadvantages I do not see at the moment? Can you give is your wisdom of 2020?
Thanks, as always, Carl
Hey Carl,
To be honest, I rarely have unlined jackets these days, unless it’s something aimed at the height of summer. It’s personal, but I got too annoyed at them sticking on the back of my shirt or trousers. There’s something nice about a jacket that slips on easily.
That said, I’m happy to have them unlined on summer pieces. And I do see the attraction of having the cloth on the inside too. Just avoid that on hairier materials like tweeds
Hi Simon,
Are you familiar with jackets that are completely unlined where sleeves are also unlined? what is your take on that?
Yes Nicky, and I’ve had unlined sleeves in the past (eg on this Rubinacci jacket). I wouldn’t recommend it – it makes very little difference to comfort or warmth, and they’re a pain to get on and off.
It’s the kind of thing that seems like a neat idea, and is sometimes used by tailors as a unique selling point, but you’ll likely regret in the long term
Interesting. Thanks a lot! I’ll keep that in mind! Got a bespoke Neapolitan jacket coming up. Was told to have it unlined and even the sleeves too. So I got curious is unlined jackets spoken of on the net mostly have sleeve linings as you correctly mentioned for purposes of helping it wear easy. My jacket is going to be made in a 100% Irish linen fabric. I’ll discuss with the tailor again!
Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well.
Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but still a little bit annoying