Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong
It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away.
The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and the audience chipping in with style questions.
It was nice to see new places like Prologue, and to catch up with the likes of Alan, Mark and Kenji. We see each other at Pitti of course, and occasionally in London, but it’s never quite the same as going out to dinner in someone’s hometown.
And I had a little time with Arnold, now working at Attire House, to shoot some pictures on the first morning.
This is a very relaxed outfit for a hot, humid day.
Hopsack jacket, with lining only across the top of the back - double-breasted and made by Elia Caliendo from Naples.
This remains one of my most versatile pieces, and pretty much always comes on hot weather trips. It’s smart enough to be worn with a shirt and tie, high-twist wool trousers and oxfords. Or, as here, with a denim shirt, no tie, and slip-ons.
Trousers in a khaki-coloured 11oz Irish linen - made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.
Even though it’s heavier, I would always have trousers in the slightly heavier Irish linen. And the khaki colour feels a little more casual than most linens, almost a vintage US Army colour.
An old denim shirt from Al Bazar, which isn’t fitted enough in the waist, or long enough really, but has been worn so much over the years that I love the way it’s falling apart at the collar and cuffs.
The collar also seems, somehow, to stay perfectly upright without a tie, alone among all the RTW spread collars I’ve ever tried.
And on the feet, that hot-weather staple, Sagans from Baudoin & Lange. I now have dark-brown, oak-brown and the bark-grey I picked for the collection.
Sagans aren’t quite suited to walking around all day, given their relative lack of support, but that’s outweighed by the coolness and comfort. And I spend so much time sitting down anyway.
The wallet is from Serge Amoruso - a beautiful green alligator with orange calf lining. I didn’t like the contrast in leathers at first, but am growing to love it. The green has also started to get a nice little patina around the edges.
Photos by Arnold Wong (xRxxxx, @arnold.wkt, xrxxxx.tumblr.com)
Simon
Lovely outfit. Although the trousers look very baggy and straight legged? In terms of the fabric, given the weight, do they hold their shape well? Also, after how many wears do you get them dry cleaned?
It’s linen, not too much you can do about that, although it’s still better than lightweight European linens. It’s also a relatively straight, classic cut.
As many as possible! Only clean when you absolutely have to. Once a season if you can
Simon where is your socks? You must not be in a city place and not have them! Even with the strong humid you must do. Linen or bamboo is best fabrics for this. No socks on is good in Cannes or Monaco, but bad in Paris or Hong Kong.
Thanks Herve, I’m happy to go sockless here, though I see your point on cities v resorts
Would you usually press at home or ask your local dryclean for a steam and press?
Not a dry cleaner, but a specialist who could do a good steam and press, yes
Thanks for the reply. I’ve come across a 13oz linen. Do you think this would be too heavy for a pair of trousers? Also, for separate linen trousers, which colour do you think would be the most versatile?
It would certainly be heavy, but have a fantastic line. Beige is probably the most versatile but olive is great too
Do you think it would wear too warm? My alternative is Crispaire.
Crispaire would probably be better for warmth
Probably worth noting that you likely press them much more often than this? Do you use a trouser press?
Yes, true.
Buggy lining is quite a job on a DB. Hope they taped the seams nicely. Like the trouser.
Hi Simon
Great outfit!
On the subject of summer jackets, I’ve been looking at the Harrisons Mersolair patterned linens at 340g. Would this weight of linen be too heavy for summer despite the supposed coolness of the fabric?
No, I think it would be nice
No lining in the arms for the hopsack jacket?
Hi Simon,
A nice report!
As to the trousers, isn’t there a pair made of wool that could have been as suitable as this one? Mind you, I love linen – and in this color – too!
John
Yes, though the wools tend not to come in such warm colours. Also a bit more formal
A really versatile ensemble Simon! Interesting that shirt, jacket and trousers all have their own particular texture but harmonise so well together. Were you wearing these trousers when my wife and I chatted to you at Napoli airport yesterday?! Hope you have a successful trip and look forward to reading all about it. Best wishes.
Thanks. No, different trousers, but nice to meet you!
Hi Simon,
Great article, as always.
What kind of shoes would you recommend for hot weather when you need to walk a lot and look smart, business casual?
Cheers,
Thomas
A loafer will always be a little cooler than an oxford or derby, so go for that and just make sure the fit is good enough to deal with all that walking
Simon,do you think that the trousers look a little loose around the ankle because you are wearing Sagans which normally look a little smaller than your average Oxford shoe?I think when wearing pants with Sagans,espadrilles, mocs …you should have the bottoms about 15″ or less …it lends itself to a sleeker look and harmonizes more with smaller footwear.
Interesting point. Yes, it probably does make a difference. I probably wouldn’t ever have trousers made just for those types of shoes, though I guess it’s an argument for having some more casual trousers cut a little slimmer
Simon-
Fantastic warm weather look. I read your pieces on W+S and may try them out next time they are in LA for a fresco suit and some odd trousers (having commissioned pieces from both Thom Sweeney and Edward Sexton, I am looking for better value for basic business pieces). The odd trousers look great, do you know the approximate rise you go with on W+S pants?
Not off the top of my head, no. It can be a little misleading given different heights and proportions though. In general, I always have mine sitting on the hips, in the middle of the hip bone. Any higher and it has to be actually in the natural waist around the belly button to stay up
Simon, I appreciate the effort you put into this blog. I’m curious if, with versatility and timelessness being of most import, you would recommend a double breasted or single breasted navy hopsack as my first summer sport coat.
Single breasted. Much as I love this one, an SB would always be more versatile
How did you transport the jacket, and did you have it pressed upon landing?
Folded in my suitcase, and no. Just carefully done, hung upon arrival. I’ll be doing a video soon showing how I do it
It’s interesting you bring up the imperfections of RTW shirts. I want to buy RTW shirts, but have found the sleeves a little long. Is this an easy alteration to do?
It depends how much, and if you’re happy for the design of the sleeve at the bottom to change a bit. Then you can shorten it from there. If not, you have to take out the sleeve and shorten from the top, and that’s a lot more work
Glad to hear! I’m going to shorten them only by 1.2cm, in which case doing it from the cuffs seems to work fine.
If I were to buy a shirt with a hand-attached sleeve, wouldn’t shorten it from the top risk ruining the handwork, assuming most alteration tailors do things with machines?
Yes there is that risk
Simon,
I’m interested that you opted for a denim shirt in warm weather. Do you not find demin too hot in such situation? How heavy is it compared to your Eeryday Denim?
It’s about the same.
Yes, denim is a little warmer than a lightweight poplin, zephyr etc, but it’s a small difference compared to, for example, not wearing a tie
Is that the former French Mission building?
yes
The trousers look fantastic! What some commenters refer to as baggy I find to be very pleasent, not too loose nor overly contemporary slim, especially with the high rise.
I suspect the width at the hem is a tad wider than your usual width?
It’s pretty standard actually – my Whitcomb trousers were all set out in measurements on this post
Hi Simon,
Might I ask how much the wallet cost? And how does the quality compare to one from equus for example?
Thanks
Paul
Very similar in make, perhaps a little finer in places, and definitely a more French aesthetic. Let me confirm the current price.
My favourite outfit on PS for 2018. Very nice Simon!
Apologies if you’ve detailed elsewhere but what is the trouser cloth maker and reference?
It’s Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – look up our recent post on filling gaps in a trouser wardrobe
Good colour combination but personally I would never go for a DB in a summer jacket for two reasons.
Firstly, if you do it up defacto you have a double wrap on it risks to be too warm.
A DB should always be fastened unless seated. They look terrible open.
Lastly I think these shoes are definitely ‘resort’ only and socks should be de rigour in cities.
What is buggy lining?
Half lining
Hi Simon,
I really like the trousers. I’m having some things made by W&S at the moment. I’ve found them to be incredibly helpful a pond responsive. Do you think that 14oz linen would be too heavy for a suit? (Apologies if you’ve already commented on this!)
No, I think that would make a beauriul suit – just not so suited to the hottest weather
But surely that’s the whole point of a linen suit, i.e. to be worn in hot weather? So a 14oz linen suit a bit pointless then?
I wouldn’t say it was the whole point – a big part of it is simply style. You wouldn’t wear it if it was tipping down with rain, but it doesn’t have to be summer and sunny either
Simon – do you often wear a DB open? I’d always thought it a bit of rule not to unless seated. Obviously rules can be broken but I’ve always found an open DB to present odd lines.
Yes, the general rule is that a DB should always be closed – if you want to be very traditional, even when seated.
I also agree that a DB will not look very good if just left open as you walk along.
However, it can look quite stylish if you have your hands in your pockets and therefore push one side of the jacket back. Or have your hands in the jacket pockets even.
Not something to do all the time, but to play with now and again
Hi Simon, do you know who made the fabric and what’s the code if you know? Many thanks
Of the jacket or the trousers?
To be honest, both are old so it’s unlikely to same ones will be available any more. But I’d look to Holland & Sherry for a navy hopsack or mesh, and W Bill or Harrisons for an 11oz linen for the trousers.
Hi Simon,
Are the linen trousers flat front or with single pleats? Also would you consider having single pleats. I know you have mentioned before that flat front is your preference as its more contemporary but I have seen some of the trousers you have commissioned have single pleats.
thanks
Rupesh
Hi Rupesh,
They are flat front, and yes that’s what I normally have. I’ve occasionally had single pleats, sometimes on dressier trousers and sometimes to see how a tailor would work with them. But flat fronts are always my default
S
Hi Simon, have you ever worn Hopsack as a pair of trousers? If so or not, what is your opinion and can you wear them as trousers?
Hopsack isn’t really designed as a suiting, and most of the time it will be too delicate really. But in a heavier weight than normal they can be fine – and of course if they don’t get very heavy wear.
Got it. Would you consider 270 gsm. All Season Weight ok for trousers?
No, that’s more of a spring/summer weight
Would you ever wear socks with Belgian loafers (even very thin ones appropriate to the light construction of the shoes), or is that strange given how delicate the shoes are?
I wouldn’t myself, no. Perhaps on the very odd occasion when I’m wearing them and want to put socks on in the evening
But then they are very much a summer shoe for me, and I would usually only be wearing hidden socks in the summer in that kind of outfit