Simon,
Would you be willing to do a post on (casual) summer dressing? It’s the area of dress I struggle with the most.
Every time I go on summer/spring holidays I find myself browsing through the internet looking for a good mix of casual and elegant summer dress, but mostly end up with a dissatisfying mixture of being over- and underdressed at the same time.
Parker
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Hi Parker,
The central problem of dressing for warmer weather – whether in the summer or on holiday – is that you can’t wear as many clothes as in the colder months.
Most of the elegant, classic dress we discuss involves layers – particularly a jacket or knitwear over a shirt. Without that, everything starts to struggle.
There are, however, various ways to mitigate this. And they all relate to your point about dressing more casually on holiday too.
1 Lighter weight clothes
The first and perhaps most obvious thing is to wear cooler clothes. This means both different materials and lighter weights.
So wear an unlined hopsack jacket or lightweight cotton jacket. Wear linen or lightweight worsted trousers. And wear linen or linen/cotton shirts.
This is one of the pleasures of dressing for summer. New materials feel different on the skin, and often brig back happy memories of long days outside.
I would also include wearing loafers/belgians/espadrilles without socks (or the little, invisible socks) under this point. Again it’s about wearing the same categories of clothes as the rest of the year, but adapting them for the heat.
(This doesn’t have to be that formal either – I recently saw a beautiful indigo-linen bomber jacket in Hermes that would do exactly the same job as the tailored jackets described above.)
2 Fewer clothes
Sometimes it is either too hot to wear a jacket, or you want to be more casual (eg on holiday).
In this situation I’d just wear a shirt, but retain more formal trousers. A lightweight button-down and espadrilles would be much elevated by a beautifully cut pair of cream-linen trousers.
And to take the casualness a step further, you could swap the button-down for a polo shirt (such as those sold on Permanent Style for instance – more coming soon I promise).
It is amazing how elegant you feel on holiday wearing a fine polo tucked into tailored trousers, with those loafers or even trainers on the feet.
I like my grey polo with tobacco-coloured linen trousers in particular (and pictured above, Adam’s white polo with green linen).
3 Lighter, brighter colours
That talk of green and tobacco also reminds me how nice it is to reflect the sun with paler or brighter colours.
Personally, as soon as I see that the weather in London will be sunny and warm, I immediately pick something to wear that couldn’t be worn at any other time. Cream gabardine trousers, for instance, or spectator shoes. There are so few such days in England that you have to grab and celebrate each one.
The cream cotton sweater pictured from Anderson & Sheppard is another example. It illustrates both the first point about wearing the same clothes, just in different materials, and this one about reflecting the brightness of the day.
Incidentally, the navy cotton/cashmere hoody that featured in my post on colour combinations is also a good example of swapping materials with the seasons. Except there, it remains navy and therefore more versatile (particularly on hot but not particularly summery days).
4 Casual clothes, but elegantly done
Finally, if do need to dress more casually (as I know many will do on holiday) make sure you put the same thought into cut and fit as you would with formal clothes.
So if you do wear shorts, take some time to find a cut you like. Not too narrow (as most of them are unfortunately) and not too loose. In a great cotton or linen. Richard James has some nice ones at the moment, as does Massimo Alba at Trunk.
If you wear shorts, maybe dress up the top with a smarter shirt. Wear espadrilles or belgians rather than sandals – they’re actually cooler, and no one has to see your toenails. And wear a top-quality panama hat, perhaps, rather than one from the local market.
I hope that gives you plenty to think about Parker.
If I wear going on holiday tomorrow, I’d pack a few tailored linen and cotton trousers, some polos, one or two linen/cotton shirts, and a single jacket I could throw on in the evening.
Add to that a lightweight sweater, Zabbatiglia espadrilles and my EB Meyrowitz sunglasses, and I’m all set.
Simon
In terms of your point number 2, what trousers do you recommend for summer? If I have pale grey fresco and cream chinos, what comes after? Specifically how far along are any of the green trousers you have depicted, which look like a nice way of toning down the formality of navy jackets.
Green is a lovely option, particularly in linen or cotton. Both will be quite formal and fit with this point of cut that way – with slanted pockets, side adjusters etc
How about cuffs and pleats? I wonder about the variability between a summer office setting and the waterfront.
I’d wear both in both settings, more on personal style than different environments
Any advice on where to go for some decent RTW linen trousers, especially with side adjusters? Only A&S come to mind initially.
Not really at the moment. Richard James are doing some nice cottons
Interesting to read your comment about Espies. Growing up in the south of France, they were thought of more as outdoor slippers than anything else. Only ever in dark blue or black, with that funny bonded rope sole, you wore them until they were falling apart. How times change!
I suspect that you’re after something more formal/ higher-end-with A&S as your reference point- but Orlebar Brown do casual trousers in linen and linen blends with side-adjusters.
Great article. Another point to consider – if you have your shirts made, consider having some cut square and slightly shorter for wearing untucked over shorts.
Excellent article Simon, thank you. A related question regarding footwear; what would you suggest wearing on days (as we’ve had a few of in London recently; horribly muggy) when the temperature and humidity is suggesting something of a lighter weight, but the chance of precipitation (or indeed the actual occurrence of) is suggesting something rather more substantial, for either formal or smart casual wear?
Id stay just as light in weight, but not wear any bright/light coloured clothes (they’re more about reflecting the sun). Then you need a good really lightweight raincoat to have with you. E Tautz have some nice ones
Cheers for the response Simon, I was however wondering more about footwear options in these varying conditions?
You have to weigh up feet that are wet with rain vs wet with sweat I’m afraid….
Struggling with this in London. ATM as its simultaneously rainy (drizzle followed by heavy showers) while being quite warm and humid! It’s basically monsoon weather. This is challenging as any rain proof clothing doesn’t look right with summer wear! I went out in cream chinos and a linen shirt with driving suede shoes and got drenched a couple of days ago. 🙁
Yeah, it’s tough (as comment above reflects too). Wear lightweight but not light colour clothing if possible, and you just have to live with the heat of a hat, raincoat or overshoes. Umbrellas also being better from that point of view of course
Another well-organised, sensible advice piece; thanks.
The bit about using summer weights / colours but with a more ‘sartorial’, precise fit really this the spot, I thought.
Hi Simon. Looking forward to your post on the recent symposium. Otherwise, I am confused between raincoat offerings: Ventile (Private White), Waxed Cotton (Barbour) and Loro Piana Storm System. Which is best suited for rain in a tropical climate and how do they perform in comparison to each other? Thanks. And sorry about the rather lengthy question.
Good question. Worth a full post I think
I’d certainly second this.
For my part I think there is a big opportunity for bespoke trench coats.
There is so much that could be personalised.
I’d be interested in a full post on this too. Would you completely discount Mackintosh rubberised cotton as not being breathable enough (well, at all except for vents) for summer use?
No, I’d still use it, but you’re right it will be less breathable
On the more general subject of the British weather and dressing it occurred to me why we (Brits) buy and have so many clothes.
Having to put up with four seasons and then out of season weather within each season (as is the case with the current torrential rainy summer) all adds up.
Definitely the need for more articles on dressing for the weather /s.
Hi Simon,
I have been following your page/blog almost from the beginning and I must say you have come quiet a long way. At one point I thought You were becoming a bit elitist but now I think you have found just the right combination of well priced and upper echelon luxury items alike.
I much admire your ability to come up with new and interesting articles on a regular basis.
Your article on how to dress for summer was spot on in my opinion.
As a great fan of flannel business suits for the office and tweed for the weekend the one thing I struggle with the most is office attire in the summer.
I never can seem to get it quite right. Either it will be too formal or too casual.
It would be a great help and inspiration if you could write an article on this particular subject
Keep up the good work
Regards René
First reaction would be hopsack and high twists like fresco or Crispaire. (And thanks for your kind words!)
Simon, good article, however, I am not sure it can still address the needs of the many who read your article in much, much warmer climes than London.
I think of the southern USA, parts of Africa, much of Australia, and even Southern Canada for stretches (the humidity + temp can easily climb into the mid 40’s C in Toronto and Montreal for days at a stretch).
Places such as Atlanta, Miami, Houston, Dallas and Phoenix can have humidity/Temp daytime combinations that can stay above 40C for many months at a time, and even remain well above 30C overnight…
A “lighter sweater”, or unlined jacket is still far, far too much in the way of clothing..I fear there is simply no good answer, as you are likely to quickly soak anything beyond a t-shirt if you are exposed to the outside for more than a few minutes or a short walk down the street…
Perhaps, although covering the skin is usually cooler than exposing it. Look at the Berbers, or anyone that really lives outside in the heat all the time. It’s about loose, cool cloths. So I guess a hat, shirt and linen trousers at least?
Simon, perhaps you could address the question of when and when not to wear shorts? Tom Ford has famously said that men should not wear shorts in the city, but only at the resort and a few other athletic venues. I personally think he’s absolutely right and that shorts are not flattering on men and should be avoided.
I would go with that, I’d only wear at home and on holiday
I think maybe you should be wary about linen or linen cotton shirts unlless you can get the sheerest ones which I cannot find in the shops anymore here in Italy ,the same for trousers. Linen shirts off the peg are mostly heavy kind of linen made in China but selling in Italian stores for big bucks. I remember I had some fantastic linen shirts , so light that they were great for hot Italian days.
Remember if you are going down south you are facing 40 or 42 degrees in the day. Lift a hand and you are sweating.
I would just think about t.shirts and polos in the lightest cotton and very light cottton trousers. There will never ever be a need for a jacket but if you want to take one a really light cotton one is best . That is Southern Italy in the Salento in Summer. Few people are dressed up, hardly any in fact because its just too hot.
You will need really good sunglasses as well and keep them on all the time in day light.
Great post as per. Only in Britain would an article about how to dress for summer be illustrated with a man wearing a sweater.
Ha!
The jumper is perfect for an English one so maybe Simon is thinking about that . in the UK we more or less get a kind of spring, at least in London.
I live in the south Spain , my housband wears since May ” guayaberas”, because the temperature is very hight , 40ºC or more.
Could you explain the rules for ” guayaberas”?
There are no particular rules – they’re always untucked. But otherwise wear as a regular shirt
Nice watch. Is that a Cartier?
Yeah, Chronoflex. Details in the ‘my watches’ post
It looks great, Sir!!!
How about pastel linen suits or separates? I’m not suggesting 1980s baggy suits but tailored linen suits in pastels. Is this acceptable or recommended?
Yes, as separates it can work. Try to tone the outfit down with items elsewhere – eg navy or grey knitwear, maybe blue shirts rather than white (though that will depend on complexion)
If you look at linen in shops its far too heavy for really hot summers , the linen that I see is basically ok for spring.Its not like the linen you could buy in italy during the 80s , most of that was very sheer and fantastic for hot hot summers but you dont see it now , I think it might have been called hankie linen .
How about a jersey cotton for smart casual? Say like your longsleeved polo, or a jersey cotton dress shirt. How well are these to be worn with a suit, or even a tie? Because the idea of a more breathable and movable cotton in summer appeals to me. I have this white jersey cotton dress shirt from Alessandro Gherardi, and I am really wondering whether it could take a tie.
Thanks in advance.
I don’t know the particular piece of course, but I would avoid wearing it with a tie, even with a suit largely.
However, it could work with most sports jackets and trousers, and everything down to the most casual chinos. So it’s very versatile.
Great article!
Is the shoes in the last picture Rubinacci Marphys? Do you consider them as a lightweight loafer or as an espadrillo?
No, Baudoin & Lange! Much better than Rubinacci… look them up here
Ok and thank you for the link!
Do you think that they may be to formal for the beach? I have a couple of more formal loafers but are thinking about buying something for a Mediterranean holiday at a resort. The alternative is espadrillos i guess.
Yes, I would say so. And too nice. Go for espadrilles.
Hi Simon
Any thoughts on sandals? I’m thinking that something similar to these could be a good wardrobe investment http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalogue/fullsize_images/Website_shoes_boots/Websiteshoes/Mensshoes/Sandals/strap_sandal.htm
Many thanks,
J
Not a fan I’m afraid J – those look fussy and probably too feminine.
If you want a formal shoe in summer, I’d just get something standard but perhaps unlined and perhaps with a softer sole (eg Black stitch)
For really hot weather and more casual, I’d wear an espadrille
Sound advice, thanks for protecting my street cred 🙂
J
Dear Simon,
I want to get some linen trousers for the summer. I have seen your linen made by Paul Stuart, but no review about the trouser.
They look great and versatile. Any chance to see more images?
Those were ready-to-wear, but yes I can try and review at some point – the problem is a collection like that changes frequently.
Great! I am just looking for ideas for bespoke linen trousers. At the waist with adjustable, the leg should be small, but not too tight and at the ankles no turn-ups. The trouser should be versatile, so I could wear it with loafer or sagan (thinking about ordering one of the
belgian loafers after you and the readers praised them so much ;-)) ) or with sneaker….
If you have any idea in mind I appreciate your thoughts!
Are you wearing the band of your sweater folded back onto itself? Why?
It’s a little bit too long
Hi, Simon. What would you recommend for someone just starting to build a summer wardrobe? I just had a great tan linen jacket made up and I was debating whether to get two more jackets or a jacket and a tobacco linen summer suit. I wanted to get something fun that was still versatile, like a mint green jacket and a tobacco linen suit. Maybe it’s a bit too earlier for a jacket in that color. Is mint green or rusty orange ostenatious or practical?
Hey. I would say you’re tending towards the brighter and perhaps less practical options. Could I suggest a pair of grey high-twist wool trousers, that might go with some of the jackets? And if you’re going to have tan linen and tobacco linen, the jacket might be better as something more conservative, such as a brown or dark green wool/silk/linen
Hi Simon,
Many thanks for your excellent and informative blog. It Is very helpful.
I have a query re your linen jackets. Are they generally structured with a half or full canvas? Or usually unstructured?
I am looking to have some bespoke summer jackets made and am concerned that unless they are at least half canvass they will be completely unstructured and look too casual.I am looking to wear these in work settings.
By way of background I divide my time between Australia and the tropics/SE Asia for work and wish to remain cool but well dressed in warm humid or dry climates. Most of the wear would be in SE Asia, (Singapore, Indonesia which can be quite humid). Sadly in Australia if you turn up to an event on weekends wearing more than shorts, t-shirts and rubber thongs (footwear) you are considered a dandy or in the more Australian vernacular (a tosser).
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nigel
A bespoke jacket would always be fully canvassed. Some MTM might be half canvassed but not beapoke. And don’t have anything with no canvas at all, no…
Hi Simon, would you wear crispaire trousers casually? e.g. shoes and a polo and no jacket or with a sweater and shirt. Or are they more formal? I’m trying to choose new summer fabrics.
Yes, I would. Nice tailored linen trousers might be a better choice, but crispaire could be ok. They’re always going to be quite smart though – so with dress shoes, not trainers etc. Whereas linen could work more casually often
All right i’ll give them a try. Thank you
Hi Simon,
I was wondering what your opinion is on dark-brown/brown suede in the summer months? To me it seems to pair well with off-white/cream trousers; however I have seem some people consider darker brown suede to be a fall/winter material. I’ve been considering a pair like these from Carmina
https://www.carminashoemaker.com/unlined-shoes/unlined-slippers-brown-suede-80709
What are your thoughts on this? Do they still hold their versatility during the summer?
Hi Gian. Yes, brown suede definitely works in the warmer months. It’s the most versatile colour of suede. Those that say it doesn’t are probably too hooked on old ideas of formal summer clothing – an era when pale suits were common casually, and white bucks equally so. Do get a pair, and those Carminas look nice
Hi Simon, i am preparing for better times (and summer…) – quick question regarding the cream A&S cotton crewneck sweater: love the style, would you recommend getting this model or are there better quality or value/money options in your view?
Hey Jan,
I’d say the A&S model is good value for money, yes, though there may be someone out there doing the same quality cheaper, just online.
The difference with A&S is a lot about the beautiful shop and the quality of the service you get – it’s hard to think of many places where the staff are so good and have been there from the start.
Obviously if you can’t get to the shop, you don’t have that in person, but I also think in these things more than any, we should support those places even if we don’t visit often
Hi Simon! Got to learn a lot about summer dressing from this beautiful article. But i still have a doubt and it would be very helpful of you if you could solve it.
If you have ever been to India you would know that temperatures over here could reach upto 40° in summer which is very hot. Can i still during that weather wear a jacket if i am going out for a dinner to some place nice for a first date or if i am going to some place nice with my family? Would i come across as a person trying to hard.
You have always emphasised on the necessity of a jacket and that shirts are not meant to be worn as an outerwear but under a jacket and i too want want to wear one, but afraid that i may come across as a fool for wearing jackets in such hot weather or a person trying too hard to impress and so i avoid wearing jackets altogether.
If you were living in a country with such hot weather what would have been your style of dressing? Would you still prefer a jacket or just a shirt and nice trousers ?
Hi Ayush,
I have been to India several times, and travelled in other tropical countries.
I think it comes down to two things: first, what does everyone else wear? Social propriety is important. If they’re in a shirt and you’re a shirt and jacket, it’s not a big step. If they’re in a polo shirt and you’re in a jacket and tie, then you look out of place. I hope that makes sense.
Second, can you really wear a jacket comfortably? If not, don’t worry about it. Look at other things like safari jackets or overshirts perhaps. If you look at many of my pictures from FLorence in Summer, it’s approaching 40 degrees – but a linen overshirt works well. Or, see my visit to the 100 Hands factory in India, where I’m wearing a polo and overshirt, but look pretty good.
Thank you so much for the advice Simon!
Just read your article when you were in Florence and was quite amazed to see that you wearing a jacket even when the temperature was around 37°. It really gave me a lot of confidence.
So if i am going to a good restaurant where most people would probably be wearing a shirt then it is perfectly fine if I wear a jacket. Am i right in interpreting it?
Most of the times i am worried about what would other people think of me if i wear a jacket in such hot weather and that how should i make them understand that i actually like wearing one, and i don’t actually feel that hot because there would rarely be moments when i would be outdoors walking in such a heat. Have you ever faced such a problem and what should be the ideal response in such a situation?
Sorry if i am being repetitive about my question but it would be very kind of you if you could advice me some more on this topic.
Thanks
I think that would be fine Ayush, but in the end this is a social situation, and I can’t judge that – it’s up to you how you feel and how you make others feel. I can tell what looks a certain way, and how to achieve something, but I can’t really advise on whether it’s suitable to what you’re doing. You have to decide that yourself
If in doubt, I’d start by wearing something like an overshirt, as it will still feel a little more dressed