In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and pattern to choose from, and two decisions to make, rather than one. It doesn’t help that the suit is the worst place to start from: almost nothing is going to go with your navy jacket or trousers.
The key to wearing separates is contrast. Both items must clearly be differentiated from each other. The easiest way to do this is through colour, then pattern. Design details such as contrasting buttons and patch pockets can also help differentiate the jacket from a suit. And although contrast in cloth is also worth considering, more often keeping the two materials similar in their formality is the best option.
First, colour. Grey flannels and cream summer trousers have always been popular as separate trousers because they are neutral in colour and provide sufficient contrast to any dark jacket. In my case, above, the pale-grey flannels are even more versatile, and contrast with the brown Rubinacci jacket where a darker grey would not.
This of course leads to the classic separates outfit: navy blazer and grey trousers. Bear in mind, however, that any navy suit jacket will not work as a blazer – it needs something to set it apart from a suit, such as brighter/paler buttons or patch pockets.
A stronger blue not normally associated with a suit would work, as would a strong pattern such as a windowpane check (see image at top).
Colour is always the easiest thing to vary, however. Mariano Rubinacci does so admirably above with a gingery linen jacket (Happy Birthday Mariano…), while Luca Rubinacci prefers stronger colours.
Note, too, that the materials are similar in their formality – and for formality, read roughness. Mariano’s linen jacket with his fresco trousers; my donegal-cashmere with flannels; Luca’s linen/silk jacket with gabardine: all have a similar-enough texture on bottom and top. The only exception, I find, is when the materials might be too similar to allow contrast. My Liverano jacket, for example, works best with smoother gabardine or worsted trousers.
See also post here with large selection of photos (only some of them of me…).
If you’re starting from scratch, keep it simple: just grey trousers, perhaps mid-grey flannels and pale-grey frescos; then any dark jacket that is obviously not part of a suit. Once you start looking around, you’ll find plenty of other combinations you’ll want to mimic.
Are there any tips you can bestow on how to tell what fabric it is from a photograph? For example Mariano’s green jacket looks like linen to me as it looks slightly rougher and a little creased but that is just me hazarding a guess. Also the construct can make the material appear a lot heavier/lighter than it actually is.
Thanks,
Sam
Hi Sam,
I don’t know what material Mariano’s jacket is, but that doesn’t matter that much – just bear in mind that the jacket and trousers are often better when they are similar in texture. On construction, it’s the external finish that’s most important.
Simon
Sorry to dig out an old post…asuming you still hold this view! Can you explain when you say jacket and trousers should have similar external finish for a successful match? For example match hospack with worsted wool trousers (both shiny finish) as opposed to a grey flannel/brushed cotton (dull finish)? Ignoring the seasonal mismatch obviously.
Hey Zo,
I’m not sure I would as much, to be honest. I think it’s still worth bearing in mind, primarily for reasons of formality – a smooth finish worsted trouser is more likely to go with a hopsack jacket because they are similarly smart.
However, I wouldn’t have a problem wearing a lightweight tweed jacket with high-twist trousers, just as long as I kept that balance of formality in mind, and was happy with it.
I hope that makes sense
Sure thanks it does. At what point does the finish of trousers make them unsuitable to wear as separates?
Hard to draw a line, but just keep in mind you don’t want them to look too much like smooth worsted suit trousers
Hi Simon,
I note that most of your examples involve lighter pants and a darker jacket. Do you think the reverse is just as easy to pull off — a lighter jacket paired with darker pants? Say, strong-blue pants with a light grey jacket?
Cheers,
Mark
Generally lighter trousers is easier to pull off, and the darker jacket is more formal. But the other way around is pretty simple too. Try starting with some slim navy chinos, charcoal gabardine or dark brown moleskins.
Hi Simon,
I am considering getting a mid grey blazer, in a sort of hopsack like fabric and patch pockets. While it is clearly not part of a suit, I am still dubious on how to pair it. In my mind mid grey should be the most versatile colour there is, but it does look odd next to navy chinos, green chinos and perhaps denim.
I already own two navy and one red blazer, hence the addition. Thoughts?
Grey is a hard colour in a jacket I’m afraid. I’d recommend going for a dark brown or dark green instead, and wearing grey for the trousers
Thanks Simon.
I have a light grey herringbone jacket, a tan and charcoal herringbone jacket, a black and white plaid jacket and a mid-grey Donegal Tweed jacket that are all great with charcoal trousers. In summer I wear a cream linen jacket and a tan silk/cotton jacket with navy or brown trousers. I find that it goes both ways very easily. I don’t have so many dark jackets apart from navy blazers.
Simon,
Very nice coloured light grey trousers in your second picture! Where (Maker or Bunch) are they from please?
Best, Laurent
Anderson & Sheppard, Fox Flannel
the best grey for sports trousers is Pearl grey flannel but I cannot find the fabric anywhere, its a great colour in flannel, also brilliant as a suit, anyone got a source
Fox Flannel does a pearl flannel – pale grey, with that slightest touch of yellow to it. Nice, vintage feel
Once again, Simon, an excellent post about separates.
I struggle with finding flannel trousers, often just ending up with grey wool rather than what I think are proper flannels.
What brands would you recommend and what are the watchouts to make sure I am selecting the right style/ fabric?
Thanks
Mark
Yes, flannel can be hard to find on the high street. I’m sure Brooks and RL will
do it, but less sure about. English brands. Let me know what you find if you have a look. The key is the longer nap
It’s not something I’ve been able to perfect so well just yet, I’ll keep trying. It’s an interesting subject.
Nice article, but I disagree with the idea that a suit jacket can’t be re-invented as an odd jacket.
D.
It depends on the suit, of course, but I’m talking of standard, plain navy or grey worsteds. They’ll never work as well
You mention the more casual office dress code. That often means mid grey to charcoal pants (with shades of brown and navy in rotation). Generally speaking not light colored trousers. Any suggestions for jacket colors?
Navy to start, then pale grey (perhaps herringbone) and then into pale browns and tans perhaps – though they will be more casual
Very sensible advice, thanks. As an aside, what are your feelings on sleeve dressing on odd jackets. Where do you weigh in on the 1-4 button range?
I don’t think it’s a big deal, but I would usually have three on an odd jacket. Or one if it was Neapolitan, just because it’s the tradition.
Simon- first time to your blog, which is a wealth of information. Nice tip on how to wear separate jackets and trousers. I have a feeling this is more of an European than American kind of thing, but it’s still a great way to go nonetheless.
Perhaps, though the Americans are the ones who dominate the navy-blazer-and-grey-trousers look.
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well, i have this one button dark shiny blazer and it looks really good. however my trousers don’t fit where as my blazer fits perfectly. i was wondering what can i wear with is blazer.i have an formal event to attend to in the near future. my initial thoughts were black trousers with a white shirt and the grey blazer. Or the option of a different shade of grey which would be darker and not shiny accompanied with a similar colour waistcoat and then my grey jacket. of course i really need your help as it will finally allow me to figure what im going to wear. so can you please help me??thank you
The key is contrast, as you seem to have understood already. Charcoal trousers, as long as the jacket is too dark a grey, or black as you mentioned, or even a deep brown would work well. If you’re worried about combinations though, steer clear of a waistcoat. Very hard to pull off as a third colour/texture.
Great article! Any advice of what type and colour trousers to wear with a grey herringbone tweed jacket?
Regards,
Michael
Hi Michael,
That sounds like a very versatile colour, so lots will work. Navy chinos, for example, or tan/cream at the other end of the spectrum. Denim should work, and if the grey is pale enough, charcoal trousers too. Just remember to keep some contrast in the colour of the two, but the formality similar.
PLEASE don’t show sports jackets, blazers and even suits worn with open-necked shirts! This style may be popular but it is sloppy and unfinished.
I disagree I’m afraid
PLEASE don’t wear this combination with an open-necked shirt, which (however popular it may be at present) looks sloppy, unfinished and incongruous. If not a tie, wear a roll-collar jumper (turtle-neck sweater).
I disagree I’m afraid. It’s always worth being aware what a smart and clean finish a necktie provides, but I can’t endorse such an inflexible position
How would you feel about a pin stripe jacket with a different pair of trousers?
Avoid. Very hard to pull off
What’s the opinions on wearing patterned trousers, with a tweed coat, so for example grey check with navy tweed blazer? Or check trousers with a tiny checked blazer? Or is the rule generally self coloured trousers with a patterned sports blazer?
It’s not a rule David, but it is generally easier that way round. Patterned trousers can certainly work, but do try to keep the jacket quite plain
Hi Simon. I’m struggling with finding a jacket colour to go with some trousers. They’re an earthy grey/brown. Would a patterned dark charcoal work? Or should I steer more towards navy?
In fact they’re a very similar colour and texture to the brown blazer being matched with grey trousers in the above picture
Navy is always going to be your safest bet. Charcoal in a jacket is usually harder to pull off (less contrast)
Do you think mix matching trousers and jackets for a more formal event is a good idea. Lets say for a wedding party (as a guest).
It’s always going to be less for than a suit, so worth avoiding for that reason. If you do it, keep it very formal (eg blue jacket, grey trouser, grey woven tie)
For a dark/medium dark grey jacket, which clearly is not a part of a suit but not casual by any means, what color would you recommend if staying on the more formal side?
Try navy and pale grey to start with – whichever creates the most contrast with the jacket
I’m having a little trouble. I just started work and I’ve been putting together random pants and blazers I previously owned. The dress code is business professional. Although no one has said anything, compared to the matching suits they wear I feel more like I have business casual. I’m 5’9 so I’m more likely to wear flats also. What do you think? Should I try better to match things up or is it ok to wear separates?
It’s very hard to know without knowing more about the office. But I would go with what others are wearing to start with. Always safer when you first start. And then you can maybe try and make the separates more formal – for example by using more colours like navy and grey
Hi Simon, I’ve had a beautiful herringbone charcoal jacket for about a year. Dilemma is finding the proper trousers to match. Found a pair of checkered light greys which kind of look okay, but lack the ‘wow’ effect I’m looking for. I’m hesitant to wear brown trousers 🙁
I’d avoid another pattern in the trousers. Try cream perhaps, or plain pale-grey
Thank you. Simon. Off I go to seek plain greys. .:) I placed them against a pair of black trousers and they looked really odd. Weird because herringbone has traces of black in it, so I thought it would work .Strange how this color palette works. 🙂
Just re-read my post…almost didn’t make sense. What I placed against a pair of black trousers was the herringbone jacket..
It would be a good idea to kill the connection between suits and business. What exactly is a “business suit”?! It’s just a normal part of the wardrobe of a gentleman. Better remember instead the name “lounge suit”, and all the sudden you might enjoy to wear a suit more often…
Hi, I’m relatively new to this, so I hope I could get some advice. I picked up a jacket in a sale, seemed like a good deal. No trousers available though. It is a dark navy blue with black satin peak lapels, a single-button tuxedo jacket tailored from a textured blend. Is there anything you could recommend I pair it with?
Thank you,
Dean
Don’t worry Dean, that’s what I’m here for.
As a general rule, no you wouldn’t wear a tux jacket like that separately. It’s going to be hard for it not to look like one half of a suit.
However, try black woollen trousers, ideally with a black satin stripe that matches the lapels. Matching the navy of the jacket is going to be difficult, but satins don’t vary too much. I can’t guarantee it will work, but that’s your best chance.
Simon
Thank you for the advice Simon, appreciate that.
Hi Simon
First of all thank you for all you’ve put into this blog. It has been most informative and educational. As regards odd jackets, a friend has passed me a length of dark brown kid mohair/wool blend that it nice and porous. However, there is only enough fabric to make either a jacket or a pair of trousers but not both. I know that most would say that mohair might be too shiny for a casual-ish summer garment, but do you think a dark brown mohair/wool sports coat could work?
Cheers,
Chris
It’s hard to say without seeing it or knowing the exact blend, but I’d say it’s unlikely. It’s less that it’s too shiny, and more that it’s too crisp and sharp. Both things suggest formality, almost more so than worsted (normal suit cloth).
Hi Simon
Thanks for your input. Having looked at it more closely, it does seem more starchy than the worsteds I’ve handled. Having said, I don’t suppose you might think that the detailing (patch pockets, lighter coloured buttons) may offset the formality a little?
Best, Chris
That will certainly help, yes. It’s still a tricky thing to pull off though
My suit jacker is a lighter black compared to my slacks. Both are black just that my slacks are darker. Would it be weird if I wear them both to a formal event? Thanks.
Probably, yes. Sorry…
Hi Simon
Another great article and particularly useful to me, as I often wear a Herringbone jacket very similar to http://goo.gl/5jMLfG for work. Usually with a dark polo neck or slim fit shirt.
In the past I’ve always gone for darker trousers/smart jeans, recently however I’ve invested in a pair for Cheaney dark leaf coloured shoes and I’m slightly concerned that dark trousers would no longer look right with mid brown (conker coloured) shoes.
Is there any colour trousers/smart jeans that would work well with the Herringbone jacket and the brown shoes? Should i go for a lighter colour perhaps?
Thanks in advance, Simon
Yes, it’s likely the trousers will be too dark, and the best option – mid-grey – is ruled out by the jacket. Have a look a much paler options like cream chinos, very pale grey, or more unusual shades such as green or browns
Thanks for your advice, Simon. I think I’ll take a look at some creams/lighter greys etc.
Out of interest, what’s you view of burgundy coloured jackets with a subtle check pattern? Troublesome colour to match, perhaps? Seems to be a colour that many people avoid in favour of the classic blue. Really just interested to hear your views.
Can be nice, but yes tricky to match Mark. You’ll end up with charcoal, I’d imagine, or cream.
Just brought Raging bull Herringbone Blazer – Blue over Check. Please advise on jeans or chinos and colour, shirt and shoes.
http://www.ragingbull.co.uk/Shop/Products/Herringbone-Blazer-Blue-over-Check/10522.aspx
Thank you
Hi Simon,
It would be interesting to see a post on “advanced” combinations, like how to wear the same shade top and bottom.
OK, good idea Ben
What looks best with a bright green tweed jacket? How about a summer-weight gun check? Finally a traditional POW (light brown)? A powder blue fresco? My tailor has narrow tastes where odd jackets are concerned, are their national differences in color matching? Btw vis a vis the unfinished look of open necked shirt with odd jacket or suit, only very few doctors at my hospital are wearing ties and jackets, maybe 25%. Times change. I would never say my open neck is superior to a tie but comfort is becoming more important to physicians.
Simon,
I had a brief question about the term “flannel.” Do you mean to conflate woolen and worsted flannel, which I understand to be different? Or should they be considered differently when thinking about how to pair odd coats and trousers?
They are different in terms of how they are made, but the desired effect is similar, just at a different weight. As with many great cloths, having a lighter weight version removes much of its character and worsted flannel suffers from that problem
Hey Simon,
Assuming I am buying my first suit and am planning to get one which I can use pref for 4 season wear and the jacket as a separate, which fabric and weight would you recommend? I’m planning to go for a navy suit with patch pockets to make the jacket more casual…
That’s a huge question Shem, and obviously depends on your work environment and country. You’ll struggle to find something that works all year around and as a separate jacket and trousers. Hopsack can work in navy for that, but it’s more spring/summer
Ive a check blue waistcoat and jacket and brown check trousers.
I think it works but something tells me its not quite right.??
No, I wouldn’t wear different checks together like that. It’s likely to clash, even if subtly.
Try to wear plain trousers with the waistcoat/jacket, and a plain jacket with the check trousers
Hi Simon,
What fabrics to you recommend for a sport jacket and trousers that I can wear in both spring and fall seasons?
And summer as well?
Thank You.
Hi Chris,
That is a very big question, but the short answer is that in spring and autumn you can wear most cloths. It’s summer and winter when you have most issues.
Simon, have you ever matched hopsack with hopsack where the color and finish differ? E.g., tan hopsack trousers in a very light wool with a gray silk-wool hopsack jacket? Or is the similarity of the weave problematic?
I’d probably have to see it, but I would worry about the similarity of the weave, yes
I am aware that this is a no-no, but I had a navy suit with light blue pinstripes.
The pants were destroyed and I want to use the jacket as a separate, despite it being a bad idea.
I am not going for perfection, just want to get some mileage from the jacket and not look like a train wreck. Greys? MY clientele is not really aware of suit fashion, but professionals in my line like of work are expected to wear ties. My partner and I wear jeans and sports jackets occasionally, so our dress code is fairly loose and some of our clients have expressed appreciation when we don’t look like the “other guys.”
Provides some room for experimentation/imperfection. Any suggestions?
Hi Simon, I’ve recently had a blazer made in a beautiful deep blue kid mohair cloth. It’s probably a couple of shades lighter than midnight blue. Wondering if I can pair it with charcoal trousers or if that would result in blending with one another. I’ve noticed most men go mid grey flannel but I’ve already got charcoal ones sitting in the closet. If I could go back I’d go for a lighter blue but at that moment in the shop I just instinctively went for this cloth.
Hard to say without seeing the colours, but I’d say probably mid-grey
Pardon me for hijacking an old thread, but would an odd jacket in French blue wool/linen/silk cloth work well with mid-grey trousers in a similar wool/linen/silk material? Or are the cloths ‘too matching’?
I’ve followed your blog for the better part of this decade and it is just a wonderful repository of incredibly useful insights and information. Please keep it up!
Thanks Julian.
It would depend on the mix, weave etc, but I would avoid that, yes.
Many thanks! What kind of cloth would you suggest for trousers to complement a wool/linen/silk odd jacket? Off-hand, I’m thinking perhaps Finmeresco?
Yes, any high twist like that would be good
Simon I was wondering if you had any tips on what trouser fabric to wear with a dark navy mohair hopsack blazer. I’ve tried to pair with flannels but the jacket looks a little too sharp for more casual flannel cloth. Would a cavalry twill/whipcord or something else work better?
How about a high-twist wool? That might be nice, and sharp enough. Or a cavalry twill, yes – anything in a worsted wool
Hi Simon, my husband is going to a wedding in Paris soon and though not usually concerned about clothes, he wants to look stylish. He has a formal charcoal grey jacket. What would you pair it with – navy or pale grey trousers and striped shirt? Thanks.
I wouldn’t wear navy with charcoal – there probably wouldn’t be enough contrast.
Light grey should be good, just make sure there’s some colour elsewhere so it’s not all too monotone.
And other options to consider would be cream (very smart, maybe a bit dandy) and beige
Dear Simon,
Would you combine a high twist sports jacket with a high twist odd trouser? I am currently combining VBC 4-ply sports jacket with a Mid-grey Cavalry twill and works very well. But how do I expand? Linen is great for summer, and flannel for winter, but if I looking for something spring/autumn appropriate, what would you suggest? Would Gaberdine work?
Alex N.
It depends on the two high twists. If they are different enough in texture, then yes. But you don’t want to look like you’re wearing two halves of two different suits. I generally recommend against high twists for jackets for that reason. Wool/silk/linens are often better for summer and spring jackets – or lightweight wools
Hi Simon,
Could you wear light grey trousers or navy as well as cream with your su jacket in dark brown Crispaire fabric, which you had commissioned with Dalcuoure.
Thanks
Rupesh
The colours would work, yes, but as I said I wouldn’t wear that fabric separately as a jacket
Hi Simon – I have mid grey flannels, charcoal flannels, heavy twill beige cottons, mid grey high-twist, and cream linen trousers. Living in London. What would you go for next do you think? I’m wondering about lighter weight brown or olive cotton for spring/summer and cavalry drill for winter?
Hey Peter,
Obviously it depends on what else you wear, and so what is most useful. No point getting variation just for the sake of it!
The cottons do sound nice for summer though, and I’d suggest the olive rather than the brown. If you need something smart for winter, then yes a cavalry twill or whipcord. If you get a lot of use out of flannels, perhaps a dark brown or dark olive.
Hi Simon, just stumbled over this very interesting article!
I have a very nice navy blazer with a subtle dark brown windowpane check, which is perfectly paired with grey trousers. Yet, I was thinking about changing the look a bit and was wondering if plain dark navy trousers would match the jacket?
Brown corduroy trousers could also look good, I guess…
Thanks for your ideas!
Severin
I wouldn’t recommend wearing navy trousers with a navy jacket like that, as they would look too close to each other. But yes, brown trousers could be nice, as good many others – beige, cream, olive etc
Hi Simon,
Do you have a view on houndstooth/puppytooth trousers? I’m thinking of getting a greyish brown/cream houndstooth (appears as light to mid brown) casual suit in a soft Neapolitan style that can be broken up. I’m wondering how the trousers might pair as separates. In my mind I’m thinking a faded oxford and field jacket, but not sure how it would actually execute in person.
The fabric in question: https://imgur.com/a/aDrTZcl
I wouldn’t wear them as trousers to be honest. I think they’ll look quite dandy at the least. I have a pair in a herringbone and even then I find I often don’t wear them
Hi Simon,
I’m in the process of buying my first separates in grey but am unsure of the best tone. Would charcoal grey work with navy blue, or would it be considered too dark? I am predominantly thinking of this as a winter outfit.
Thank you.
Edward
Charcoal grey can be OK with navy, but it’s not always easy – you might need some pattern in the jacket, for example. Mid-grey will be safest
This is such a useful article Simon – especially the starting from scratch point. I have 4 bespoke suits and with current wfh patterns I think that’s plenty for now but am considering trousers/jackets. To my chagrin I only have chinos/jeans (and some moleskin jeans which are incredibly comfortable and a touch smarter than jeans, but still quite casual). I’ve been weighing up to get in the way of a couple of pairs of bespoke trousers and this is v helpful.
Also thinking of getting a couple of jackets made so I have a bit more hinterland between “work suit” and jeans/chinos. I have a casual linen/cotton Paul Smith jacket in a blue just off navy with patch pockets and a grey herringbone Harris tweed – the tweed is a bit difficult to match with trousers. I’m pondering getting a green or brown tweed which could go with jeans or smarter trousers – I really like green tweeds but they are a bit less versatile – and then something in a proper navy.
Anyway, thanks for curating and writing such a great website.
Hi Simon,
I have my first appointment at a bespoke tailor coming up and was wondering, whether there was any good way to go for a navy suit that can be worn as a suit or separately? It’s my understanding that I would have to opt for a slightly more casual option (cloth, pockets, buttons..). Do you think a wool navy jacket with patch pockets, dark brown horn buttons and cuffed trousers would work as a suit an separately? Maybe any other ideas for that?
Thank you so much!
Hey,
This comes up so much, but my advice is to avoid it – I’ve made that mistake in the past, and you can easily end up with something which isn’t quite what you want either as a jacket or a suit. It’s fairly easy in casual materials like cord, tweed or linen, but harder in anything smart like a navy suit
Thank you, I will go for a jacket and a suit then.