For the past five years or so, I’ve been wearing Hamilton & Hare’s tubular T-shirts under things.
They’re what I wear underneath knitwear, what I wear under a shirt, even what I sleep in. They’re the best fine-cotton tee I’ve ever worn, partly due to the raw material, but also the seamless construction with its sportswear-like panels.
I have a couple that have been worn over a hundred times, and they’ve aged well: not lost their shape, not lost softness or handle.
However, there were a couple of things I always wanted to improve. The first was that to get the right fit in the body, I had to take a size Small, which was a rather close fit around the shoulders.
The second was the neckline, which is a little low, particularly at the back. I couldn’t get that nice line of white showing above knitwear, and I didn’t find the profile at the back flattering.
It didn’t occur to me to try and change these things, however, until I saw how popular the PS Tapered T-shirts were last year. They’ve sold through again and again - so I thought it would be nice to try and produce a perfect version of the other model of tee I wear.
This is the new collaboration that was flagged up in our round-up of of Spring/Summer products a few weeks ago: the PS Undershirt.
I’m pleased with how well it fits in with everything else. The T-shirt is something I’ve worn and mentioned on PS for years, and it's what I’d wear under the Cashmere Rugby or Dartmoor (if I wanted the neckline to show) plus the only thing fine enough to wear under the upcoming Finest Crewneck.
However, I should make it clear that this T-shirt can be worn on its own as well, if you want to. It doesn’t look strange or transparent - simply like a lightweight tee. I tend to prefer heavier, Japanese-style T-shirts when I’m wearing one on its own, but I know some readers (particularly in hot countries) will be different.
This also means, importantly, that if you’re wearing it under a sweater, there’s nothing preventing you taking that sweater off (unlike a vest or Henley-style undershirt).
So what makes this such a good undershirt?
First is the fine, open-weave cotton of the body. This is highly breathable, and its lightness is a big part of the reason I can wear it and completely forget I have it on.
The material fits closely to start with, but then grows, adapting to your body. This type of stretch is something you find in a lot of good undershirts - such as the Lee Kung Man undershirts from Bryceland’s for example, the only one I’ve found as comfortable.
That stretch was part of the reason I wanted to change the sizing compared to the H&H version. I found a Medium became too big in the body for me, so I had to size down to a Small, but with a 39-inch chest and 34-inch waist, I’m not really a small.
So on our version, I took the body fit of the Small and paired it with the shoulders of the Medium. This feels more like a regular fit to me now - certainly, the kind of fit readers will be used to from PS shirts and knitwear.
The Undershirt then has panels of a pique mesh cotton running up the side body, which add breathability and remove the side seams. It’s an interesting addition, as this construction technique is really only used elsewhere on sportswear - with football tops for example.
The panels are very subtle - as you can see in the image above. You’d barely notice them if they weren’t pointed out, which again is why it doesn’t look odd if you wear it on its own.
The bottom of the T-shirt is finished with a ribbed hem. This gives it some grip, but there’s no gathering or elasticity - it sits flush with the body. I’ve had tees in the past that had this, from Iron Heart for example, but the ribbing was tighter and it kind of crimped the hem, which didn’t look great.
Hamilton & Hare also put the care instructions on the inside of that hem, reducing the number of labels needed inside.
The neckline has been changed to be closer to that of our Tapered Tee.
I know a lot of readers will be familiar with that fit now, but if anyone isn’t you can see it on the original article here, as well of course in the images today. It’s relatively high, in the back and front, but without being tight. I have a pretty big head (60cm) and it goes over easily.
In terms of sleepwear, I’ve never really liked pyjamas - I find they pull as soon as move or turn, and ride up. I have some nice ones from Anderson & Sheppard, but I put them on in the morning, for the hour and a half between getting up and my first opportunity to have a shower.
I sleep in underwear, with perhaps a merino T-shirt (old Private White ones) in the Winter but Hamilton & Hare ones the rest of the time. Everyone is different of course, but if anyone wears a T-shirt at night, they might find this the most comfortable version. And in fact if they wear nothing on top they might even like it too, as they’re unlikely to even notice it.
I really hope you like the shirt, and it becomes as much a go-to for you as it is for me.
I do like the look of a T-shirt under a shirt these days (above, as discussed previously) and this is the only one that I find works well. It's almost as long as the shirt itself, fits snug to the body but grows where it needs it, and doesn't ride up out of the trousers as a result.
And when I put on a sweater the rest of the time - any sweater, but particularly something slimmer like a Colhay’s or finer like a Smedley - this is always what I wear.
The Undershirt is available on the PS Shop now, price £55 (including VAT).
Product details:
- 100% fine cotton
- Tubular knit, with no body seams
- Flat, forward seams on the shoulders
- Mesh pique panels in the side body
- Ribbed hem
Fit details:
- Body fits slightly slim, but grows as you wear it, adapting to size
- As a result, can fit up to two inches larger in width than shown in the chart below; will feel snug when first worn
- Simon wears a Medium and has a 39-inch chest, a 34-inch waist
- In the images, it has been worn it all day and loosened to size
- Long in the body, designed to be tucked in and stay that way
| Small | Medium | Large | Extra large | |
| Chest width | 47cm | 50 | 53 | 56 |
| Hem width | 45.5 | 48.5 | 51.5 | 54.5 |
| Back length | 68 | 70 | 72 | 74 |
| Neck width | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 |
| Bicep width | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 |
Navy knit shown: Fender II from SNS Herning at John Simons. Tailoring outfit: PS chambray shirt and Sartoria Ciardi jacket, in detail here.
Hi Simon
The link to buy is giving me a 404 notice?
Best
Tom
Try it now?
Interesting product. I love the PS t-shirts (and similar heavy Japanese t-shirts), however they’re too warm for summer and/or for wearing under heavy knitwear (like the PS Rugby). I’ve mainly been wearing sunspel t-shirt when I wanted a light t-shirt.
I’m not a fan of the T-shirt under shirt look (occasionally I wear a v-neck undershirt for warmth, so it doesn’t show) but I definitely wear light t-shirts under knitwear. It’s important that the knit can be removed so this is another design detail that I like.
Oh good. Sounds like it would be perfect for you then Noel
I hope so, we shall soon find out! (Just ordered one).
Hi Simon,
Do you know when the tapered T-shirt will be restocked? It’s lovely. I get cold easily so I use it as an undershirt too.
Not for a few months I’m afraid, that’s just how long the Japanese production takes
I’d definitely be interested in a pre-order system if you decide to open one up.
Good to know Joel, thanks. Put yourself on the waiting list if you aren’t already – we’d message everyone on that first about a pre-order option.
Hi Simon,
Looking at the measurements they seem like small garments. I am a 44-45 inch chest but same height as you (6 ft.). Even the XL will be too small it seems, and far to long in the body adding 4 cm from a Medium, which seems like a reasonable length.
Hi Nicolas,
They grow significantly in the chest to adapt to the wearer, as I mention. In the bullets you’ll see I say a good two inches if needed. A 44 inch chest like yours would normally be an XL, and the XL will fit snug to you when you put it on (being about the same size), then grow as much you need.
The length is deliberately long as it’s meant to be tucked in, and it’s the best functioning length for an undershirt. I think it will be fine for you at 6ft, though of course all RTW sizing assumes a certain proportion of height to chest width, and a 44 inch chest is big for that height.
I hope that helps
44 is a big chest for a 6 footer? You need more gym time Simon 🙂 I’m 5’10” with a 46 inch chest and 34″waist…. But I guess the world caters for the normal people and not the supermen and those that can lift heavy things.
Yeah exactly Gary, no observations on anyone, just what the industry generally sees as average – which you clearly aren’t
Actually, having compared it now the the Sunspel sizes, of which I have bought XL, the length of these ones are shorter, so that should be fine.
Interesting, ok thanks
I have not looked at the sizing here but I wear same H&H t-shirt on which these are based. I’m a 46 chest and I wear both Large and X-large. Both work well although I think I prefer the Large. If you wonder why I have both sizes, I ordered one of each when I first ordered just to get size correct before ordering a few. Simon is correct at all points about these shirts and I would recommend them also.
Cheers Gary, and just note everyone else, as mentioned the body fit on our version is different – the Large has the body size of an H&H medium, which I think reflects that point about growing, and perhaps Gary’s too on preferring the Large
Maybe also add, as a wearer of these, they do stretch quite a bit for wear yet unlike other t-shirts I have never felt them restrictive or tight even when at full stretch. Stretching say, a Real McCoys or one of your tapered shirts is completely different in feel.
Thanks Gary!
Hi Simon,
Just sent a note to the PS support email – I seem to be having problems processing payment with paypal…?
Joe.
Hey Joe,
They’ll be in touch, don’t worry. I know it’s been working fine for others, so I’d imagine it’s just a temporary issue.
Cheers
Simon – its gone through now so no problems.
Thanks as ever..!!
Oh good. Cheers Joe
Hi Simon,
I’m a 41in chest, 33in waist. Do I go for M or L? I know they stretch slightly so thinking perhaps M….
What do similar T-shirts of yours measure in the chest Richard? Usually a better place to start than physical measurements
I don’t have anything that similar, Simon. Certainly ones that don’t have any stretch in them. Looking at the photos of you in your M, the fit looks comfortable. I guess, what I’m asking is, if your chest were just very slightly bigger, do you think the M would still work for you or would you envisage going up a size. Sorry to be a pain but would rather get right first time!
Sure, no worries. I’d still go for an M in that case
Great. Ordering now. Thank you
Just received today, Simon and the M fit is spot on. (41 in chest, 33in waist) For a simple, no fuss tee, I must say the quality is off the scale. It’s almost a travesty to wear as it’s intended (as an undershirt) It’s too bloody nice to keep covered up! – The perfect summer tee as well as the most luxurious undershirt. A grey or black/charcoal next please…
Thanks Richard!
Simon, will these be available in the H&H store or online through PS only?
Through PS only – online and in the pop-ups (next one March 29 to April 1)
Really good new product .
I find undershirts / t-shirts / vests a must in the winter .
I noticed in the comments a number of questions about size . I think answering the following might help …… given say a 40.5 inch chest how much bigger should the undershirt chest be ? Given ,for example , a 38 stomach waist how much wider should the undershirt waist be ?
Given most men no nothing about their own size ( deep sigh !!) I think this kind of guidance will at least act as a guide and reassure men.
P.S.
It’s the sort of thing I would buy 2 or 3 of . Might I suggest a multiple buy discount … maybe in future .
Thanks Robin. On the sizing point, I find that this can vary between people, which I think is a major thing that causes sizing issues and uncertainty. That’s why I suggest that people measure a similar T-shirt of their own, that they’re used to wearing and know how it feels. It’s not always possible of course, but I find that’s the most reliable approach.
Good point on multibuy, maybe we’ll try and do a pack like that at some point.
Great to see this.
On my quest to improve my wardrobe I’ve found that as the price/quality increases that it is often the fabric that improves yet features that improve the wearing of the garment are often left out e.g., the mesh panels you have added to this t-shirt are often missing from very expensive and the highest quality cotton sweatshirts available. Not just the panels, but other features such as movement gussets under the arms (workwear shirts really could do with these, maybe even formal shirts), and so on. This applies to other types of clothes too, not just casual/workwear type stuff.
This is probably why I am drawn to Japanese brands as they often get this right.
Interestingtly, in the past I have bought some merino hiking/cycling tops from Aldi, very low price/not top-quality fabric, but include such features that are absent from premium brands. One top has a mesh panel that runs from a little below the under-arm all the way up to the wrist, narrowing as it goes to account for the arm shape. A great feature for using when active as it allows the (skin hugging) garment to act as it should and not ride up or have it tugging as you move around. And off course the mesh allows airflow under the arms – this is very noticeable and helps prevent overheating, the merino fabric of course helps aswell.
Sorry, meant to add the higher neck is a welcome sight, the open weave fabric, the body design – with a narrow waist and broad chest I often find mediums too small and large sizes too big. It can be quite frustrating trying to find a top that simply fits.
I have some heavier weight Japanese t-shirts. One is a short sleeve that I find can be too hot to wear, even in London, and on days cool enough to wear it, I’d prefer it had long sleeves.
For another day, I’d love to see a discussion/article on design/features/fabrics/weaves and why they are chosen or not by brands when designing a garment. For bespoke shirts and suiting it’s possible to make requests, but for casual wear the options are sparse.
Very reasonably priced also, great addition to your offering, Simon. It’s great to see the thought that has gone in to designing this.
Cheers Con
Looks great. Really glad to see the pique panels still present.
I would love to see a heather grey version.
Noted, cheers Aaron
Its a cool product but I don’t understand it very well. Why do you prefer to wear this under a sweater instead of a PS tapered tee?
I didn’t understand in which cases is this product better than a good t-shirt. Could you explain?
Also I’m not sure a lightweight short sleeve t-shirt wears cooler than a heavy one. I’ve worn heavy cotton short sleeve t-shirt in 40+ ºC just fine.
For the weight primarily Fernando. A PS Tapered Tee is a heavy cotton, which looks great and I love wearing, but under some things it’s it too heavy. Certainly under something like the Dartmoor or a similarly fine knit – the T-shirt is thicker than the knitwear!
There are then functional ways in which this performs better as an undershirt, as described – the length, the body fit and give, the lack of seams, the mesh panels.
If you’re then comparing it to a more regular, good quality T-shirt, say a Sunspel, then the advantages are primarily those construction ones and the length.
As to wearing tees in hot weather, that’s pretty personal I guess. As I said I wear the heavier Japanese ones in pretty hot weather, but I know readers in the past have said they find them too hot.
Any other questions do let me know
Cheers
Thanks understood. Just curious, why do you wear an undershirt beneath the shirt? I heard you somewhere in the past you didn’t use to wear them. I find them slightly impractical. Maybe they prolong the life of the armpits but they are another thing you need to laundry…
I don’t wear them for practical reasons (as many in the US do), just for style ones. It softens the look of a shirt, it makes it easier to wear the shirt more open. It’s a different look
Great! thanks
Hi Simon, this looks really nice! Can you comment on how the material compares with Sunspel’s superfine cotton? Thanks.
The cotton (the raw fibre) is pretty similar, but it has a more open weave and is lighter as a result
Have you ever considered bamboo for these sort of garments Simon? I have an old bamboo t-shirt that I got as present and it feels like it’s better at wicking moisture away than cotton.
Good point, Bamboo is great for that kind of performance. I believe it’s not as versatile from a technical point of view, so you can’t spin it as fine or weave it as openly for example, but I might be wrong.
Bamboo is great for ventilation and wicking moisture away-much better than cotton-I wear it all year round under my work wear. Also I find it keeps you warmer,so it’s deal for technical clothing and keeps you odour free.
Good quality bamboo underwear is expensive -I wear Undiemeister and their tees cost more than the PS ones. It is mixed with man made fibre to prevent shrinkage.
Hello, Simon. Any idea as to when a restock of the undershirts can be expected? I just saw the post on IG and missed my size (M).
Hey,
It won’t be for a while I’m afraid, but do add yourself to the waiting list, because it’s a new product and I’m sure we’ll get a few people exchanging sizes.
Cheers
Hi Simon, which model JLC is that?
Reverso ref. 250. 140.862
Nice addition to the PS range. Should we think of these as the same fit as the Tapered Tee? i.e. take the same size as in that?
Probably, but do look at the measurements and see comments above on them too. It’s meant to fit close and then give as needed
Lovely, and right on time too! I’ve been looking for a new undershirt since the last weekend when I was unhappy with the lines of the undershirt visible under a John Smedley turtleneck. Simon, will this be fine enough, or am I in the wrong to expect any undershirt to be invisible under so fine a knitwear as Smedley?
I think you might struggle if it’s a very close fit on you
In the nineties one often saw white T-shirts under shirts. It became a trend. Then the T-shirts would turn yellow with wear. The picture above still reminds me of those yellowish collars of the time, which was no appetizing look 🙂
But as a T-shirt: yes. I like the fact that it is 100% cotton and that it has no seams, also I find the mesh pannels a good thing.
Thanks. Not too hard to treat your tees well enough to stop them going yellow fortunately!
Simon, would you please expand on this thought? I’m always turning my undershirts yellow, and would love to avoid doing so.
Is it just undershirts Andrew? And I assume you wash them after each use, as you would a regular T-shirt?
If the issue is mostly the armpits, then the key is to try and avoid using deodorants that contain aluminium apparently. For other sweat-based yellowing, you want to put on a stain remover or a little extra detergent on the area before you wash them – but do it when you first notice it, as after a while it will be too strong to get rid of
Thanks for the thoughts! Yes, always pop them in the wash after a single wear. My problem is mostly the underarm stains, good call about the aluminum deodorant. That’s another can of worms, but I keep coming back to aluminum for its antiperspirant properties. However, I do still yellow the rest of the shirt in general (happens to my sheets and towels as well). With a white collared shirt, I always spot treat the cuffs and collar before the wash, but my undershirts always seem to turn ivory.
Simon,
Do you have a preference for undershirt colors? Any plans for colors such as grey, navy or black as well?
I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. I can see a grey being useful, but that’s about all probably
I would like to see some quality gray V neck undershirts produced. Gray is less visible than white under a white shirt, and the V neck makes the undershirt invisible for those of us who prefer not to look like a 1980’s American fraternity member.
I can see that, but I’m not really intending these to be worn under a dress shirt, as many Americans (but very few Europeans) do. It’s more under knitwear where you would want something between it and the skin.
Any thoughts on a white v-neck (a deep v)? Sometimes I want it showing, sometimes not, depending on what I’m wearing
A deep V I’d keep mostly for things like a collared knit (like the Dartmoor) where I don’t want the T-shirt to show. But then I wouldn’t really ever want to take the knit off (not so much of a problem with a finer knit like that)
Hi Simon – the navy knit looks great. I am always a little uncertain about zipped knitwear – love the collar/neckline but the zip v-shape rarely measures up to a classic deep v-neck sweater. This one however looks very sharp. How do you like it and would you recommend it? Thanks!
I’m not entirely sure myself to be honest, PB, I’ve only just got it. I also generally dislike half-zip sweaters, as they’ve become the lazy option – people think they look good with shirts and tees, when they don’t really with shirts. Even zips, I’d generally prefer a button if I could.
This one’s advantage is that the zip is longer and higher, which gives it more style. Also its authenticity and ruggedness – it’s not something you’d wear with a shirt. Do note that the collar is very high, and is meant to be turned down when zipped all the way up
Thanks Simon. Did you get an S or an M? I am also an M on PS items but from the measurements on the site it looks like this one may need sizing down.
Medium
Also wanted to say how good the SNS quarter zip looks here with the white t-shirt/undershirt. It’s the high and generous collar that makes it – a rare combination in my view. SNS Herning do this very well and it makes for striking knitwear. Nice deep navy, too. I have a full zip version of one of their pieces and it’s that zipped roll to the collar away from the face that creates a nice frame. I think yours looks really great. Thoughtful addition to the roster with the undershirt, by the way. I have always liked the white t shirt under hefty shirt look. But it has to be white. No other colour works (at least as I see it).
Thanks
Hi Simon,
I can see this undershirt being a useful addition to the wardrobe, but on a personal level I’ve always found a full sleeve t-shirt to be more comfortable under knitwear, especially some scratchy knits. I realise this may be less useful if a person wants to remove their sweater and therefore loose the versatility of a half-sleeve t-shirt but personally, in sweater weather of the UK, I rarely find that I remove my knitwear anyway.
It’s good to see that the PS undershirt is in 100% cotton. My size of medium sold out quickly. But I must confess I did delay due to previous concerns of H+H underwear which were a Lyocell mix. They were just awful, losing shape and stitching coming undone on several pairs, including replacement ones. H+H’s customer service was excellent I should hasten to add.
Thanks JSB. Yes the quality issue was one reason I emphasised at the top how long I had had and used my undershirts for.
Personally I like a short-sleeve tee under knits, but I can see people could be different
I have a few tubular thermals from Real Mccoy’s that I tend to use with Shetland knits if I don’t want to wear a shirt. They look fine on their own so no issue with removing the knit. For all other types of knitwear (lambswool, merino, cashmere) short sleeves are fine.
Thanks for the suggestion on Real McCoy’s thermals. They look nice but for me appear a little heavy as an undergarment. Always nice to know what others are using as an alterative. I tend to prefer the Sunspel Riviera, which isn’t too thick.
I do appreciate your point on short sleeves with lambswool, merino and cashmere but I guess its a preference thing too.
I should have mentioned that there is another point that is important for me personally as well. My arms are slightly longer than most for height, not very much longer but by about 2-3cm. This means that most knitwear on me can seem a little short in sleeve and with a short sleeve t-shirt, most knitwear sleeves ride up, exposing my wrist bone. With a full sleeve t-shirt, I find this is somewhat negated by having that long t-sleeve there to hold the knitwear sleeve in place. Hopefully, that explanation makes sense. Not a perfect scenario, but one I can live with.
Lovely new addition to the shop Simon. Just ordered 2.
I wouldn’t mind a heather grey one in the future. Woudl make a great and well suited style in the summer with jeans and color 8 loafers for instance!
any chance to have the same with a lower or v-neck for those who would enjoy this superb product but don’t (yet?) like the white line for example under knitwear?
No plans for that at the moment Michael, but perhaps in the future
What’s the difference between a well-aged T-shirt and one that has been worn out?
Whether you feel comfortable people seeing you in it
The t-shirt you offer, is it made of long-staple cotton?
Thanks
Yes, both the ones we offer are
Hi Simon.
These look fantastic. A lightweight T-Shirt that can be tucked into a pair of trousers is certainly a useful and versatile item. Unfortunately, it seems that I missed the boat on this one (L & XL sizes are already sold out at time of writing). I might just sign up for the waiting list for these.
On a side note, I too would be interested to see these available in other colours. the current form of the shirt has garnered my interest, but a black version would demand my attention.
Additionally, I would like to pass on my complements and thoughts to all involved regarding the three PS products that I’ve acquired in the last few years. In particular, the Bridge Coat (which has seen me warmly through winter) and the Motor Trench in olive (which has yet to be tested by a rainstorm, but has kept out the wind and cold marvellously, and contended with the rigours of international travel better than any other item that I own).
The only thing that I would offer any constructive criticism on is the Wax Walker. In the time I’ve had it, it has repelled the wind and rain well, however, the corduroy on the cuffs has a habit of soaking up water. I’ve often found if I get caught in a downpour, the coat itself will dry within an hour or so of being hung up, but the cuffs will still be soaked for hours. I also find The Walker to be excessively warm. Unlike the Barbour jacket that it replaced, it has no ventilation in the arms, so even without the liner, I tend to find sweat dripping down my arms one the temperature gets above 15 degrees. These points aside, it has served me well in cooler weather, and I expect that it will continue to do so for many years to come.
Thank you David, great to hear on the positive points, and useful feedback on the others
Simon this shirt looks very impressive. Could you please do a “how great things age” post on this at some point? Would be interesting to see how it holds up over time.
I’m not sure that’s really the focus of those articles – some things actually look better with time, others are just intended to carry on doing the same job and look consistent. A T-shirt really falls into the latter camp
I don’t see the attraction of having one’s underwear peeping out between one’s clothes. Better to keep it discreet and wear a cotton singlet.
It’s amazing that an item so simple, even utilitarian, can be elevated to something that’s clearly on a different level. Actually, now that I think about it, a lot of PS projects have that in common. Cheers on this new product, I can already tell it’ll be a smash hit.
Side note: just a bit puzzled about why a henley wouldn’t work that well on its own. Is it because of some relatively stronger association with undergarments?
Thanks Joseph.
Henleys have different associations with different people, but the biggest issue is usually that (like the Lee Kung Man ones) the neck is scooped very low, presumably in order to not show when the first couple of buttons of a shirt are undone. This is not the most flattering neckline on most people
Thanks. Interesting point on scooped necklines. I happen to wear them under some light kendogi-style jackets I have, as well as on their own when it’s particularly balmy. I suppose the scoop’s angle has something to do with it – the ones on my t-shirts are more horizontal, wider than lower.
I admit it’s a peculiar style point. Something I picked up years ago from a Korean vigilante drama, of all things. Then again, my Asian features probably do their part to make it work. Not sure if other Asian readers have given it this much thought!
Hi Simon, would you say the undershirt has a higher neckline than Sunspel Riveria t-shirt?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes it does
That’s great. Thanks, Simon.
I received the t-shirt today and the neckline is amazing! It is almost like a mock neck sweater. I think this would solve my long-neck issue and finally let me wear a crewneck sweater without a shirt or polo.
I received my T-shirts yesterday. So lovely! They scream qualilty and style without actually screaming. You know what I mean,
Absolutely. Lovely to hear Fatih