UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS Shop in the future too.
Over the past 10 years, there has been a welcome recovery in the small, crafted menswear shop.
Usually single stores, with dedicated staff often involved in the brand and product, they have come to typify the quality of clothing we celebrate on Permanent Style.
But I still don’t think they get enough attention. Big brands and department stores still dominate, with the independents often characterised as ‘cult’ shops.
This was the main reason I wanted to publish this new book, The Sartorial Travel Guide.
When I first began talking to Thames & Hudson about a follow-up to my last book with them, The Finest Menswear in the World, a way to publicise these stores was top of the list.
Using a large, international publisher like Thames & Hudson means the books will get a broad, mainstream release, and reach people beyond the Permanent Style readership and other fans of menswear. The book came out last week, and includes a list of my favourite 10-15 menswear stores in 10 different cities: London, Paris, Florence, Naples, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Milan, Stockholm and Melbourne.
There are then 15 single shops picked out in another 15 cities: so Optimo in Chicago, Michael Jondral in Hannover, Brio in Beijing and so on.
Each city has a map showing the rough locations of the shops - intended to give the reader an idea of which order to visit them in, rather than navigate (Google Maps is best there).
And then each city has a few 'focuses', where I go into more depth about the particular shop, its history and its offering.
Places that get that treatment include Connolly in London, Motoji in Tokyo, Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan, Leffot in New York and Charvet in Paris.
Most of the photography here is Jamie Ferguson’s, building on the trips we’ve done together around the world in recent years.
There are also two bonus sections.
In the first, four people in the industry write essays on the subject of retail. Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard talks about the role of small shops; Wei Koh of The Rake picks out his favourites; Mark Cho from The Armoury gives his advice on travelling; and Mats Klingberg at Trunk talks about how he shops when abroad.
These add variety of taste as well as broad experience to the book. Mats is particularly good on Tokyo; Wei suggests jewellery and motorbike shops that wouldn't otherwise make it in.
I then contribute two features: one explaining how I plan what I wear when travelling, and one illustrating how I pack my clothes.
All in all I think it makes a neat, attractive travel package. Expert views, on the menswear shops worth travelling for.
Some of this has appeared on Permanent Style in recent years, of course, but not all. In particular the 15 extra shops, and some of the bonus sections.
I have also - for the first time with a publisher - been able to produce a limited edition, Permanent Style-branded version.
I did this primarily because I feel the priorities of PS readers are different to those of the normal book-buying audience.
While they might need something under £20, readers will value something a little more celebratory, and luxurious.
So the special edition comes in its own grey-cloth slipcase, with the title embossed in gold.
Each one is signed by me, and numbered. I did that on Monday at Trunk, and as per usual it took a very long time.
Still, only 300 are available, and half of those have already been bought by a select group of the shops.
I've listed those shops at the bottom of this post.
Anyone not close to a store can buy a copy online, on the PS Shop here. The price is £29 (no VAT, as books are exempt).
We had a nice little launch party for the book last week, hosted by four London shops featured: Anderson & Sheppard, Trunk Clothiers, Connolly and Drake’s.
Everyone invited their VIP customers, and we had a great time at the Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone.
I do hope you like the book as much as they did. As with most books, it’s been two years in the making, so it’s great to have it out there.
And hopefully it helps a little towards spreading the word about the shops we love.
Shops carrying the limited edition:
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The Armoury, New York and Hong Kong
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Christian Kimber, Melbourne
- Trunk Tailors, Melbourne
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Ferdinando Caraceni, Milan
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Barbarulo, Naples
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No Man Walks Alone, New York
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Leffot, New York
- Sid Mashburn, Atlanta
- Simone Abbarchi, Florence
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Skoaktiebolaget, Stockholm
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Michael Jondral, Hannover
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Kevin Seah, Singapore
- Benjamin Barker, Singapore
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Linnegatan, Gothenburg
- Trunk Clothiers, London
- Connolly, London
- Drake's, London
- Anderson & Sheppard, London
Simon
You still never seem to have spent any time in Rome…. It is obviously now far too hot, but I recommend changing this!
No, sorry. I do want to, just too much other travel at the moment!
I also, perhaps biasedly, that the Romans have the best style of the Italians. Grandeur yet a charmingly relaxed louchness seems to pervade the city.
Looks fantastic .
Initially I thought it would be a boring A-Z of tailoring houses around the world.
Credit to the layout and photography .
I think you’ve created your own unique look with your website layout and writing which transposes into your publishing .
Now please , please , PLEEEEEAAASE step out into the British regions and highlight some of the tailoring .
Good or bad it needs exposure and PS has tremendous influence.
And yes the charlatans selling ‘custom’ bespoke (aka MTM) at outrageous prices will be exposed but so will the quiet individual making do in his / her unique way .
Once again congrats on your book .
Thanks Robin, I’m so pleased the look comes across that way.
I’d like this too, as I can’t afford Savile Row prices and there has to be tailors as good as SR elsewhere not charging the same (due to things like rent cost).
Agree with the pleases!
Another vote for the British regions.
Hi simon i plan to pick up the book here from Singapore. Was wondering though, would an increase in public awareness of these shops/brands increase consumption of these products and hence typically increase prices? Wouldn’t brands want to do that now that they have a larger consumer base to increase profit margins?
Not necessarily. It depends very much on their business model.
Often when prices go up like that it’s because the brand has taken on extra costs – opened up new stores, done more mainstream advertising and so on. If they don’t and are happy with a small number of stores, increasing sales might actually help keep prices down, if there are any economies of scale for example.
Looks like an absolute must have.
No self respecting flaneur should leave home without one !
Looks good. Purchased!
Looking forward to buying your book.
I trust that all the shops are still open as you started two years ago?
Alan Flusser did a similar book years ago, however, half the shops are now closed.
Only one has closed, sadly – Frasi in Florence
That’s a shame.
I’ve ordered my copy.
Do you know what he is doing now?
No, sorry
Hi Simon! Interesting idea to publish a real hard copy book in this day and age. Aren’t you concerned though that it might become outdated pretty soon, considering how fast stores close and open these days?
I wonder if you included Vienna, Munich and Budapest on your list? I’m not sure I remember you ever cover any stores/brands from the above mentioned cities…
Thanks for all the fantastic info you share with us! Highest quality content!
Yes, that’s certainly a risk. But most of these.shops are playing a long game in terms of customer base and financing (not private equity-fuelled start-ups) so I’m hopeful.
The hard copy just sold out too, in a day, so clearly some appetite!
The only place we covered out of those three cities was Jungmann und Neffe in Vienna
Simon
You continue to skip the many requests made of you to seek out the very many artisans working in the UK beyond London.
Why?
In the past you have said that the majority of your readers are outside the UK, but I imagine the majority of them are outside Italy too, so your argument fails.
Do tell.
Oh dear. I haven’t replied David because it’s a discussion that has been had many times before, and nothing here is adding anything new.
The two grounds for not focusing on these tailors are that they don’t travel, even often to London, and are therefore of relevance to a very small proportion of the readership. Most of the Italians travel not only to London but to the US, Sweden and even Japan.
And that these tailors offer nothing different to Savile Row in terms of cut or aesthetic. Italians, on the other hand, often do, as there are rich local traditions in tailoring that there aren’t in the UK. The Caracenis don’t travel, but they offer something genuinely different.
If you have anything to add on these points, please do so.
Thanks
Ok. I suspect the reason that many of us would like you to spend a bit of time in the UK but outside of London is simply that you can get Row quality for a lot less money.
That in itself is a huge consideration for many who want to dress well but cannot afford London prices.
In addition, there are many other types of artisan who would benefit from a bit of “Buy British”.
And opening a sentence with “..oh dear..” is a touch patronising.
My apologies David, it wasn’t meant to be patronising. It just feels like we’re covering the same ground.
Value is important, but I think that’s a little undermined by the point about lack of access. It will be value that is available to very few.
In terms of other artisans, I have travelled extensively over the years to visit these makers, and continue to do so. Fox in Somerset, mills in Huddersfield, Smedley for knitwear, Northampton factories, Johnstons for cashmere, goat leather tanning etc etc. The whole book ‘Best of British’ was nothing but that.
Ok last comment here.
I just don’t buy “lack of access”. If I live in Birmingham, Savile Row is some distance away. So is York, or Carlisle, or Manchester. I still have to go from where I live to where the tailor is. “Access” is still something I would have to deal with.
And if one of your travelling Italians was coming to London, I would still have to “access” them from wherever I was in the UK.
I ‘m sorry but I think your “access” argument is flawed.
Regards
Yes that’s right David. But very few people live in Birmingham… I just looked, and about 3% of the readership live in the midlands. 22% live in greater London, and of course far more than that travel through London.
Sorry, I was using Birmingham as an example, I don’t live there.
Forgive me if I didn’t make my point well; accessibility cannot be a reason as you give it, as whatever you want is probably not going to be on your doorstep and so you will have to travel to get it.
If you accept that argument, then wherever you start from Leeds might be as excessive as the Row, and if you can go there and get Row equivalent quality but save £1500, why wouldn’t you?
I see David.
But how about the vast majority of the UK readership that is around greater London, or the even bigger proportion that is in New York, for whom it is on their doorstep?
I would agree with those points and sympathise.
From the other side of the coin, however, some would say that the pursuit of value is quite important and not to be ignored. this is something regional tailors may well have.
Secondly, some would say there might be a bit of menswear snobbery in here… It is much more romantic and instagrammable to go to Caliendo & Solito rather than a tailor in York…. I understand that the fact the travel and are cheaper than SR is on your side, but I think for completenesses sake it would be a shame not to explore further (and who knows you might learn something in your own back yard!). Even just Steed!
Thanks.
Yes, value they definitely have. I think the access point is important there though.
And I definitely know what you mean about snobbery. I don’t think that applies, given the number of pretty grotty factories I’ve been to around the UK over the years, but it might be self-conscious. Certainly worth being aware of.
On York, incidentally, I did go and visit Louis at Old Sole when I was there last year. I didn’t think it justified a full article though.
Thanks Simon. As ever I do think you are the most down to Earth of the menswear writers out there.
The other area I would be interested by is the more Teutonic styles. There is a whole great tradition there that has been unexplored by these pages! Admittedly much of it that comes to my mind is based in Rural Sports, as much as suiting etc. I bet, though, that there are some great regional Austrian producers and amazing artisans in Berlin!
True. Even if only a minority of it were something a reader would wear, it would be an interesting area.
Rome first though!
Would it be worth writing a single article like “New York Bespoke Tailors”, but for the UK regions outside London? Questions on it are asked so many times that there is a clear demand for it, but the reasons for not wanting to do so are equally understandable. This seems a reasonable compromise – and the comments section of said article would provide a single platform for readers to discuss it, rather than populating unrelated threads.
Yes, that’s a good idea.
I think the only challenge would be that with the New York article, I personally tried to go and see each one, so I could give a consistent (and fairly experienced) view on each one. Doing that in the UK would require a week a lot of travel around the UK, which is hard to justify for a single article.
We could just ask readers for their views, but forums are perhaps better for that pure crowdsourcing?
Dear Simon,
These readers who point out what you haven’t covered need you to appoint an assistant who writes what about they want. There must be a second book written by an author under your guidance.
Hi Simon,
I don’t suppose you have a sort of list of respected UK tailors, shirtmakers, shoemakers etc outside of London, even if you haven’t used them, but may have heard good things about them?
Many thanks
Joel
No, sorry Joel
Thank you! Are you acquainted with Knize? Apparently, Vienna still has its bespoke traditions. Any interest in checking out the cobblers in Budapest?
Yes I’ve been to Knize, and been to cobblers in Budapest and Warsaw in the past.
Unfortunately there wasn’t room to do a lot of these smaller cities in the book. But we’ll certainly do more on the website in the future
Looks beautiful, that’s my next birthday present sorted I think. The look of it reminds me of an excellent book on Italian tailors by the journalist Yoshimi Hasegawa, which I’m currently working my way through.
My two pence worth on the regional tailors question: I think the reason this keeps coming up is simply curiosity. For example, I see a grand and very old looking ‘bespoke’ tailors every time I visit my brother in Edinburgh, and I’d be fascinated to know if it’s any good. But Simon’s reasons for not covering these establishments make perfect sense. So no complaint.
Good point Phil.
I’d be interested too to know what they actually do. I guess the problem is that you’d actually have to have something made to assess the quality of the fit and cut. Though a visit would be enough to establish whether it was proper bespoke or not
I have nothing against regional British tailors but still agree with Simon. There are regional tailors in most European countries but few of them are available for most people. Simon is sometimes writing about regional tailors in Italy but most of them are having trunk shows in other main cities. Permanent Style is now a “blog” with a global audience. Most of us visit London every other year but few of us visit Manchester, Dortmund or Marseilles (even if those cities all have tailoring).
The woeful state of UK public transportation outside the metropolis means that London-based tailors are often more accessible than those located in other parts of the country, even if those other tailors are geographically closer to where one lives.
For example, I live in Newcastle upon Tyne and can be in central London in just under 3 hours on the train. That’s slightly less time that it would take me to get to Manchester and a considerably less arduous journey than would be required to get somewhere like Birmingham, Bristol or Oxford.
Even as someone who considers themselves to be a stereotypical chippy northerner in most respects, I’m struggling to see the point of a slew of articles on regional tailors?
Most if not all will work in the same style as their London counterparts, perhaps offering slightly different degrees of structure and drape and as a general rule of thumb they’ll be a bit cheaper than buying in the capital – what more do you need to know?!
But wouldn’t it be nice if you found out there was a great tailor in Newcastle for half the price of SR?
I fully understand the desire not to cover tailors who are neither famous nor travelling however for those of us of more limited means the opportunity to find a diamond in the rough (area) would be great. We just need to find someone with Simon’s writting ability but of more limited means and no large overseas following yet.
Just on the limited means point – I would use Whitcomb & Shaftesbury if that were your concern, Graham Browne below that. And someone like Prologue for a less English style.
Oh, and it might be worth reading about my experience with Bryan Manning if anyone hasn’t – I think Bryan is quite typical of a lot of ex-Savile Row people who live outside London but travel in to save a lot on costs. Though my experience wasn’t that great.
Hi Simon,
Any delivery issues? Ordered the book a few days ago, and apart from the customary “thank you for your order” e-mail, I haven’t heard anything!
Yes, there’s a small delay just because we had a rush of orders. But we normally aim for three working days, so it probably hasn’t been that yet?
Should go out on Monday if I hasn’t yet, I think
Many thanks, Simon.
Hey Simon,
Big fan of yours and I check this blog daily. Picked up the travel guide but was slightly disappointed after reading. Realised that most of the articles and features of shops/tailors have already been covered in the blog. Even articles by guests (e.g. Mark cho etc.) have already been published elsewhere before. The one area which I liked was at the end (e.g. how you pack) and wished there was more original content like that. Not sure if others agree but I would have liked to read your personal thoughts about travel in general and how you perhaps would dress differently, if at all, in the various countries, how one at different lifestages can pack on travel but still remain stylish (e.g. those with newborn, children etc.). Would also have loved to read how others (e.g. Mark Cho etc.) would pack as well when they travel. Just my 2 cents.
Hi. You’re right, that would be great content and perhaps we’ll plan to do that more in the future.
In terms of the content already being online, yes that was the idea – everyone said they would like to see this content gathered in one place together, as a complete guide, in a nice format. But I take your point that this doesn’t create much that is original.
Thanks for the comment
Simon,
I bought the book from the Sid Mashburn store in Atlanta and throughly enjoyed it!
In your next book would love to see more original content, like how to pack, etc.
Finally, kudos for the outstanding presentation of the book.
I have one of the signed copies with the slip case, outstanding!
That’s so nice to hear Greg, thanks. By original content, you mean things that aren’t also on the website?
Yes Simon, new content not on the blog would be of interest in your next book.
OK, thanks Greg. There were of course some new things, like the maps, but I’ll try to do more. It’s hard though to spend extra time writing for print when there’s such a volume demand on the website. I’ll have a think.
Do you have a book similar for Women? or know of one? I love small shops (boutique clothing) and home shops and things similar to the men’s book you have. I am not interested in high maintenance richy “Only the finest diamonds” kind of stupidity but I love this book and use it for myself as much as I can.
Sorry Beth, no, I don’t even know any good blogs that cover more classic, quality clothing. I do ask people all the time though
Hi Simon – i bought your book pre-pandemic and have yet to be able visit any of the places listed since. Will be visiting London later this year and was wondering if you planned on sharing a bit of an online update on any changes to the places listed in the book e.g. change in location or God forbid, if any of them have been forced to close.
I wasn’t I’m afraid Chip – keeping something like that up to date isn’t that feasible on a continuous basis. Off the top of my head I don’t think any in London have closed though
Thanks Simon and understand. Was hoping for a once-off post pandemic update rather than a continuous one but confirmation from you on the London shops will do for me just fine!
Oh good, and always good to know that would be helpful Chip