How to pick buttons for a suit
Simon, I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...
How to pick buttons for a suit
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In my experience it's not normal, no, but I can also see some tailors thinking the customer might not have a particular preference. It's an easy thing to change if you ask them to...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
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There's no guarantee that a cloth from an English name will be woven in England unfortunately. But you don't usually want Dormeuil, not being English, and you want to look at Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Fox, Smi...
Cloth offer at J&J Minnis
Those that order their cloth themselves might be interested to know that J&J Minnis has a special offer on its website for the Crown Classic bunch, as it is being phased out. This is a lovely selection, weighing 320-350 grammes in a Super 10...
Cloth offer at J&J Minnis
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How much of this would I need to make a jacket? A pair of pants?...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
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I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...
Skip the basted or the forward fitting?
I recently commissioned my third single-breasted suit from my tailor*. At this stage my pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right length and small issues lik...
Skip the basted or the forward fitting?
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No, they can't really adjust the shoulder width at the forward fitting. Yes I would happily straight finish after the forward fitting, presuming I was happy with the suit at that point, and so was the tailor. The kind of...
The coat project 2
My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...
The coat project 2
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i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...
My first English bespoke suit
My tailoring is taking a step up in the world. I’m having my first English bespoke suit made. The tailor is Graham Browne, whom I have written about on this blog previously. They are located on Well Court, just off Bow Lane in the City. I had o...
My first English bespoke suit
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No I don't, generally. Double-breasted suits are usually made so that they are fairly easy to sit down in without undoing that button. But it does depend how the jacket is cut. If it's tighter, it can be less comfortable...
