This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic.
Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant. It makes a great jacket for the modern man to wear with grey flannels at work or jeans at the weekend. But traditional versions are often too structured, or in patterns associated with a previous generation.
The Neapolitan version – with a light canvas, soft shoulder and curved patch pockets – takes all the stuffiness out of a tweed jacket. This vintage material, meanwhile, eschews big checks in favour of subtle but beautiful intermingling of colours. It appears brown at any distance, but bursts with orange, yellow and bright blue on closer inspection. The fact that the blue doesn’t come out in these images shows how changeable it is with the light.
Above you can see Elia’s lovely patch, outbreast pocket. The curved shape is, for me, more casual than English equivalents and the swelled edge serves to highlight it more than on a lighter material.
The buttons are dark-brown horn, with polished edges but matte centres. The Italians usually use polished horn or corozo buttons and, while I normally favour matte horn (as used by English tailors), this seems like a nice way to have a bit of both.
The jacket is self-lined at the front, which makes the most of the lovely tweed, and has a panel of tan lining (the same colour as the piping here) across the top of the back. The only disadvantage of having such a hairy cloth unlined is that it can be uncomfortable with the thinnest of shirts.
As mentioned on the Vergallo top coat post, the jacket was cut to fasten across the lapels. This makes it much more functional, and great when being used as the sole outer layer. The three main buttons were also placed a touch higher, in order to minimise the button-less area across the chest.
It is worn with a Permanent Style Dartmoor sweater and Drake’s pocket handkerchief. In retrospect the sleeves of the Dartmoor should have been rolled a little longer to allow a little ‘cuff’ at the end of the sleeve. The ability to do so is one advantage of Smedley’s Dartmoor and Dorset designs.
The jacket cost €2800 from Elia. He visits London every 6-8 weeks and you can see more of his work here.
Photographs: Jack Lawson
Very nice indeed. Who made the cloth?
It’s a vintage tweed – there was no selvedge.
Hi simon I’m looking for a cloth just like this. In another post on holland and sherry cloth you said this was a holland and sherry tweed with stock code. Here you said it’s s vintage one! Am I Getting mixed up? Help!
No, they are very similar, pretty much exactly the same. It was recreated for the recent bunch, and I used that New one again in my Liverano coat
Oh thanks Simon! Makes sense. Are you becoming so influential these days that cloth merchants are recreating fabrics you used to wear Simon LOL Agnelli step aside! I like the cloth, would you suggest anything else in perhaps a slightly darker brown, a chocolatey colour, I have a mid brown skin tone so Im a bit careful around mid browns otherwise there isnt a lot of contrast.
Good thinking. I haven’t had any dark browns though I’m afraid so can’t recommend anything
Have you ever thought of venturing into the realm of a Nehru jacket, the last photo is reminiscent of one. they are notoriously tricky to get right, so don’t worry if you are hesitant to take the leap!
Never liked the style I’m afraid
Very nice jacket ! I love neapolitan style. One question : what is the place in photo ?
Crowe tailors, in the City (piece on them coming soon)
I’ve had a few suits from PA Crowe. I won’t say anything for now (wouldn’t want to lead the witness!) but I very much look forward to your review.
Like the colour and the texture…
What was the reasoning for the single button on the sleeves? Solito did a couple of jackets for me recently with one sleeve button and I couldn’t decide whether I like it or prefer four…
It’s traditional in Naples for odd or casual jackets. I quite like it as a style
Simon, congratulations on the blog. Always informative. I have commissioned a jacket from my tailor and would like to replicate the one button sleeve of your Neapolitan tailoring. Is that button supposed to be larger than normal sleeve buttons? Have been looking at several pictures in the blog and can’t really tell if this is the case.
On a separate note just received my everyday denim shirt and loved it immediately. Great product.
Thank you, that’s great to hear.
No, the button is the same size as a normal cuff button.
is very nice, but honestly I find it very expensive, € 2,800 for a jacket is too much, there are plenty of tailors in Naples, lesser known, and no less talented, they can do the exact same process with one-fifth of that from you paid.
I’ve tried three others and found Elia to be the best, which is why I use him when I can afford him. There may well be cheaper ones that are just as good, but I’ve also seen a few that aren’t great.
Simon,
this is actually the 1th time I take the time to write you instead of just reading carefully what you write 🙂
I’d like to thank you for being part of my change of heart in clothes choices , I’m now one of those few 28 yo guys who wears very rarely jeans and sneakers and wear way more often shirts with jackets and boots\oxfords etc.
As you can imagine being 28 year old means also I’m constantly broke and while I luckly know a few place in my town (Torino) where I can find stuffs like Caruso\Cantarelli jackets for 150 euro in sales , I use a lot ebay ( I recently bought some C&J black oxford for 70 euro and a beautifull pair of EG oxford brown for 150 both looking new) and vintage shops I still want to give myself as a present a taylor made jacket made in Napoli.
All things consider, which you think is the best taylor for a broke guy and what you think is the cheapest I can get for a , say , standard flannel without getting something that looks cheap and ugly? I’ve been suggested Enzo Cafora right outside the city but I don’t have any idea of his price range, any suggestion?
PS this tweed is beyond amazing!!! If it wouldnt’ cost more than my watch I’d love to get one 🙂
best regards,
Vittorio
Hi Vittorio,
I’m afraid I don’t recommend bespoke tailors I haven’t tried. I have met Enzo and he’s lovely, but I can’t vouch for him I’m afraid.
Simon
maybe you can help me out on the price range though?
It’s incredibly hard to find such informations on internet.
Vittorio
Enzo’s certainly worth contacting, though I don’t know the price point. Also Solito – Gennaro is great and they are cheaper. I’ve written about them before – have a search
will do, thanks a lot for your work !
V.
No problem Vittorio. Glad that what I love is loved by others too
Isidoro, which are the Neapolitan tailors you refer to at a fifth of the price?
In fact, € 2,800 for a jacket in Naples are many. Sure, Rubinacci well costs more but it is one of the few. Naples, as compared to other Italian cities that are poor tailors, still has many tailors in town and several with more than affordable prices.
Good evening Mr. Crompton. It ‘s the first time I write in his blog. I’ll congratulate you for your work.
Thanks Lorenzo. I’ve been to Naples 5 or 6 times and have met many cheaper tailors. I need someone of reliably excellent fit that visits London regularly though.
Very clearly and well written, with helpful photographs! Simon is obviously an artistic and sensitive person, and would be a candidate for Eurythmy!
I’ve been following your blog for a long time Simon. Extremely informative. One observation I have is that over the last few years jacket’s have become progressively shorter as styles have changed and yet you haven’t necessarily embraced it? What’s your view point regarding this change? Have you tried it but felt it didn’t work for you?
Thanks
These jackets, particularly casual Italian ones, are shorter than traditional suits. But the very short modern jacket is highly unflattering. There is no balance to it
Simon, do you know of any Neapolitan shirt makers who visit the US? The only Neapolitan tailor I know who visits regularly is Napoli Su Misura. She does offer shirts but I don’t get the impression she actually makes them and I’d ideally have some interaction with cutter.
Afraid this one really doesn’t do it for me. The combination of the wide lapels and high middle button has the effect of unnaturally elongating your torso and narrowing your shoulders, while to me the patch out breast pocket just screams out “school blazer”…
I’m also unconvinced by the combination of neapolitan tailoring and tweed. Neapolitan tailoring is all about lightness and creating pieces that are wearable in the heat of a mediterranean summer – not materials crafted to survive a Scottish winter.
Obviously I don’t agree, but thanks for the comment
Simon,
Beautiful jacket! I also had a Neopolitan jacket made in a heavier weight herringbone about a year ago and was generally pleased with the results although I have a slight concern on how my tailor finished the back vent area. (It puckers at the seams where the top of the vent meets the back of the jacket and I was told it was due to the thickness of the fabric?) Do you have a similar problem and /or could you post some photos of the back of your jacket vent area?
This has caused me second thoughts on if I made a mistake in using a heavier cloth opposed to the more common light eight fabrics on a Neopolitan style jacket.
No, I didnt have any similar problems
I disagree with everything bar the patch breast pocket, its a little much… but do you need to have it with patch pockets?
No you could have a standard welted pocket, but I’ve always liked Elia’s patches
But you wouldn’t wear that jacket in summer in the UK either. In Naples, nighttime winter temperatures regularly hit freezing, and it occasionally snows.
In fact here in Rome I prefer going out on winter evenings in a tailored tweed jacket (maybe over a roll neck sweater) rather than wearing an overcoat and then having to deal with coat checks.
fantastic looking jacket that would look fabulous with jeans.
Simon,
I am unaware of your age but I will assume you are older than, say, 25. Can I ask, what were your feelings and tastes like back in your early and mid twenties?
I love the clothes and style you write about. It is classic, subtle and tasteful. I actually become intimidated thinking about the journey I have ahead.
…And a touch of frustration when there is so much I already want *now* !
Yes, it’s a long road, one I embarked on at 24 (I am now 32)
Never was a fan of tweed, mostly because of patterns that are from modern and the cut of your average tweed garment. But your Caliendo is brilliant, especially when paired with flannels.
What’s next for your tailoring docket? I imagine your closet is chock full – are you running out of ideas?
Regards
Oh no… Never!
Great jacket, Simon!
Do you have experience with bespoke polo-shirts?
When wearing a polo-shirt with a jacket I often have the feeling that the collar is smaller than the collar of a regular shirt and as a result very small part in any of the polo-shirt collar is visible under the jacket collar. So it makes sense to opt for a custom made polo-shirt with a higher collar. What do you think?
I’ve written about this a few times on the site.
I’ve worn Al Bazar’s shirts for a while, which work well, but now have them made bespoke by Satriano Cinque. Also recommend Orlebar Brown on that score RTW, though only short-sleeved
What do you wear under the dartmoor or polo necks?
T shirt
Al Bazaar’s polo shirts were once made by Guy Rover correct? If you go for RTW I can suggest Borrelli , Barba ,Piombo (not as nice but cheaper ) and expecially Finamore, all bit pricier but you can find them easilly on internet (Yoox ,ebay ,etc) for around 70\80\90 euro .
That’s right. Most polos have a collar that is too low to work with a jacket – most of those names do to my recollection?
I wouldn’t say so ; they all have many different lines and collars here in italy got 1 inch longer in the last years (both cause of cutaways and botton down Montezemolo Style) , you probably noticed it in Pitti for yourself; issue is that basically all nice men shops in italy in big cities (there is a shop just like Al Bazaar in any town with more than 300k people in italy) have their own shirts made by manufacturers like Guy Rover ; actually lot of shop as Lino does have their own jackets and trousairs made even + every city has it’s own style (in Torino we tend to use more botton downs, in Milano more english collars, in south west bit of everything as long as the collar is soft, south east else etc) so it’s difficoult for me to say yes or no to your question. I’m sure however Finamore has a line of polo shirts with pretty long collars (botton down and surely cut away) , so does Eidos (new Isaia brand for those of you who didn’t have to pleasure of seying their new stuffs ,AMAZING) ,so does surely Barba.. to make a long story short, Italy is a mess 🙂
ps,
sorry for my awfull english in the previous post, I’m extremely bad @multitasking ! no more conference calls and writing on blogs at same time!!!
Thanks. It was the height of the collar not the length I was referring to.
Also, always good to differentiate between shops that design or change the proportions on their clothing made outside, and those that don’t. Lino does
also what are these types of shoes called and what are you thoughts on them? http://www.gazianogirling.com/products/chelsea
Beautiful autumnal colour.
With the collar up it certainly had a Nehru jaket style look and a great one at that (even though normally I myself am no fan of the Nehru style) .
I think this article , given the richness of colours , needs reading with other articles on mixing and matching colours.
Particularly given the richness of the colour of the jacket .
Simon,
I agree completely with your comments concerning shorter jackets having no balance. These short coats that are being pushed by designers today make men look like they’re 12 years old while being unflattering as well. I notice that this jacket is three button which looks terriffic. Would you please comment on the three button vs two button model. Do you have a preference or are there circumstances where one model is more appropriate than the other. Scott
Neither is more appropriate really, they just have a different look.
I only ever have 3-roll-2 jackets, rather than true 3-buttons, where the jacket is cut to roll easily to a 2-button stance. That soft roll is quite casual and relaxed, which I like, as well as being very different to most RTW.
A 2-button, by contrast, is cleaner and sharper, falling straight to the top button. More similar to a one-button in that way.
I like the 3-roll-2 idea and agree that is a more relaxed look. I have a black Kiton suit that has that 3-roll-2 button stance and it looks fabulous! It seems that the two button is all the rage now with the three button a bit out of favor. The newer two button models have a higher button stance which I like,but I still like the three button silouette. In fact, the three button model that you have is very flattering on slender and trim athletic men. I’ve been told that the two button is more appropriate for a serious business suit,but I’m not convinced of the veracity of that belief. What’s your opinion on this matter?
I can see how a three-roll-two would be less smart, but it’s pretty marginal
I agree. Ocassionally I enjoy wearing a suit with a turtleneck or an open collar shirt, such as Tom Ford does. With that kind of look the 3-roll-2 works really well.
Stunning jacket, one of the few times when I am actually envious.
I appreciate you may not be able to answer due to you limited recent experience of MTM but maybe some of the other regulars can fill in the gap.
I find I am an irregular size, effectively shoulders fit a 44 jacket but stomach requires a 48 so RTW never looks good and I dont think I can go for your normal recommendation of getting a jacket that fits the the shoulders and getting the rest altered as clearly there isnt the fabric there to let it out.
In an ideal world this would push me to bespoke but this is out of my budget. Going round the MTM places near work (London) a few have said that MTM isnt suitable for me either. A couple have said its fine but I didnt trust them as my limited knowledge was more than theirs. One that did convince me was Ebe & Ravenscroft and I got my first ever MTM from them. Its not perfect but a definite improvement on anything in the RTW space.
I would like to try others, if it was sub £1k it would be better, but wondered if you or anyone else knew MTM options that were more flexible in what they can deal with as going round them all by foot takes an age. I did speak to Hackett and on the phone they said no problem but then in person they said their standard blocks werent suitable for me.
Many thanks
Interesting Dan. I can’t help that much with MTM, but I would suggest Graham Browne (as per normal), who start at £950 for bespoke suits
That fabric is amazing. The depth and colors are just beautiful. Love the touch of color with that little purple-y pocket square. I love this jacket
That is the best looking fall/winter fabric I’ve seen in years.
Hello Simon
Apologies if I missed this elsewhere but do you have an e-mail or phone contact for Elia Caliendo please? His website appears to be permanently ‘coming soon’!
Thanks
David
Sure, it’s [email protected]. Let him know I passed you on
Dear Simon,
1. What don’t you like about Cordings tweed jackets?
2. What do you think of Keeper’s Tweed?
3. In your opinion what qualifies as a “lightweight” tweed jacket, for example, in cloth weight?
Love this. Would you say that Neopolitan tailors have less flare in the skirt of the jacket than their English counterparts? Is less flare necessary to be in proportion to softer shoulders?
Thanks,
S
Not necessary, but yes they do – largely because the jackets are simply shorter, so there’s less skirt to play with
Naturally there are a lot of items in your blog that I would love to wear myself but if there is one item that I particularly want it is this jacket. The photo from Scotland is just amazing. What a lovely jacket. All the best Andreas
Cheers Andreas
Can you tell me where the tweed cloth comes from and is it available?
No sorry, it was a vintage piece
Hi Simon
I’m about to email Elia the cloth I’d like for a winter Jacket. I really wanted to use the H&S tweed of the above jacket but Elia has warned me that it is extremely heavy. I’d like cloth around 320-380gm that would be great with jeans as well as trousers. Do you think a similarly coloured dark brown donegal would be as good or rather a brown herringbone harris tweed? Do you think check or glen plaid tweed is less versatile?
I’d go for the Donegal of those, yes. I find my Rubinacci in that pattern (if not weight) very versatile
Hi Simon
Thank you for your last comment. Do you think a mustard coloured donegal is more versatile or a dark brown one, especially for jumping between trousers and jeans?
Depends on the mustard, that could easily be too bright. I’d likely go with dark brown
Hi Simon
If it wasn’t too bright would a light brown/mustard colour be better?
Also I was thinking of having a brown glen check jacket made like the ones in the Drakes AW16 look book, how versatile do you think that type of pattern can be?
Thank you
Yes it could, and a brown glen check would be nice, though likely smarter
Simon,
I’ll be in Naples for 3 weeks. I was looking at commissioning something from both Caliendo and Solito. The wife has since said no – I have to pick either or.
I understand both styles would be similar but Caliendo’s finish superior?
John
Yes. Solito’s might be a little more modern – slimmer in the body, slimmer sleeve – but I’d recommend Caliendo in terms of fit and finish.
I managed to get the 2 commissions in the end.
Caliendo, after the first fitting was very good and was very near perfect after the second one.
Solito – after the 3rd fitting is still not quite there yet. 4th fitting tomorrow before I leave the country.
I will have to wait for the final product to comment on the finish but your advise on the fit has generally been spot on.
I suppose it helps Caliendo that he has 1/3 the volume of Solito’s but then again there are 2 Solitos running the show.
Regards,
John
Simon can you address when black/grey and brown can mix. And also address the colour of shoes and bags that go together e.g. If you wear this brown jacket with grey flannel, do you have to wear brown shoes or will black shoes be okay given they will match the grey trousers. Similarly, if you are wearing a grey suit and black shoes, can you carry a dark brown briefcase with it. The “rules” say black and brown don’t mix but surely I have seen it work in some combos
You should consider trousers, shoes and bags entirely separately. They have little in common in terms of rules. Brown shoes would go with that outfit because it is relatively casual. And you can carry any colour of briefcase with black shoes. Just bear in mind that the lighter it is, the more casual, generally.
Do you always stick to the matching belt and shoes rule?
I rarely wear belts, but when I do they usually don’t match. Just keep them roughly in the same family, eg middling browns together, pale brown/tan, or blacks
Beautiful jacket and material, but I wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss the “patterns associated with a previous generation. ” Some of those patterns can be very beautiful, but one has to wear them with panache. As for structured vs. unstructured, I bought an English-made hacking jacket on eBay that probably dates back to the 1960’s in a beautiful tan and rust windowpane. It feels a little like a suit of armor (it probably wouldn’t have lasted this long otherwise), but I must say the combination of structured shoulders, nipped waist, hacking pockets and deep vent gives me an imposing, almost Connery-esque silhouette. To each his own, I guess…
Hi Simon. I’ve recently acquired about 2m of a lovely rose-coloured donegal tweed. How would one approach a tailor in order to produce a jacket. Do you think that amount of material is sufficient. I appreciate it is a little off the wall; thus thank you for your time!
Tom
Hi Simon
I’m having a couple of tweed jackets made up. They’re both 14oz, one is reasonably soft whereas the other is quite rough. I’m unsure at to whether I should line the front using the fabric or more traditional cupro lining. I favour the former as I like the look but I’m concerned doubling up the fabric on the front may make it bulky. Any thoughts? Btw the back will only have lining on the shoulders.
As always, thanks in advance.
If the fabric is quite thick (as well as heavy) them I’d use standard lining
Many thanks for the speedy response. To avoid risking bulk, I’ll go with your suggestion.
You normally tend to have less tapered sleeves don’t you? I like it, together with the overall cut, giving this tweed a welcome contemporary look
Simon,
Would you still go for a patch breast pocket if you went back?
Thanks,
S
Yes, I like them on the Neapolitan jackets – so curvy and small
Simon, will be venturing into my first tweed bespoke jacket, some advice please. If you had to make this jacket again is there anything you would change? Seem to remember you mentioning tweed can be a little prickly. Also on page 57 of your tailoring book “obsessions” could you tell me know the color of the tie please, looks like its the same Elia tweed jacket. Unfortunately won’t be able to make it to Naples, so this adventure will be in NYC.
Thank you.
To be honest no, I wouldn’t.
The tie is a green wool I believe
Many thanks, much appreciated.
Cliff
Hi Simon
I’ve heard that you can get smaller pocket squares for patch pockets on neaopolitan blazers.
If so where can I find one?
Great picture of you and Ben on Instagram by the way.
Best wishes
Thanks.
I have some but not entirely sure where I have them from – usually white linens or cottons are smaller. Try A&S, I think they do some
Hi Simon,
i can not recognize through the pictures if this jacket is padded?
Are your Caliendo jackets in general padded or not?
Yes, they all have a light padding
Simon, believe this jacket was made from a Holland & Sherry cloth 892020 have been trying to find it in the NYC, looks like H&S recently discounted the fabric unfortunately, do you have any advice please for similar fabrics in terms of color and tweed type or do you know any tailors who I might be able to purchase the 892020 cloth from.
Much appreciated.
Cliff
Simon, apologies in my earlier post meant to say discontinued not discounted.
Sorry for the confusion.
Cliff
Simon, went down quiet a rabbit hole regarding my previous post and the H&S fabric question. It seems, that this fabric is not actually manufactured by Holland & Sherry themselves. Holland & Sherry is of course a maker of fabrics in England as you have discussed. But, true Harris Tweed is only made by a couple of different weavers, only on the Outer Isles of Hebrides in Scotland, also as you have discussed What we discovered is that Holland & Sherry simply is acting as a distributor of this cloth. Through another supplier who deals with a lot of UK mills, we were able to track down the exact fabric.
Thought this might be a helpful follow up.
Cliff
Thanks Cliff.
@Cliff: Would it be possible for you to share which supplier this is? Since I’m really interested in tracking down this cloth as well.
Simon, thought you would like to know my 6 months journey to find the tweed, have the jacket made in NYC has come to a successful end. The final fitting was last Saturday, its been a fun journey, the process has been great learning, having patience is key.
Thank you for the inspiration, advice and council along the way.
Cliff
So pleased to hear that Cliff. And that you enjoyed the journey.
Why don’t you remake this exact fabric Simon? I’m sure many readers would like it.
Because Holland & Sherry would have to do it for it to be exactly the same. I did ask them before whether they wanted to, but perhaps I should do so again.
Oh yes you should! What was this weight?
11 ounces
Maybe if remade it can be heavier like 14-15 oz?
Perhaps. Though this weight is very versatile I’ve found – it has real heft to it
Good point, you’ve changed my opinion. 11 or 13 oz would be good, which also avoids appearing too warm/stuffy.
I’d buy that for sure.
Simon, I’ve bought many items from the PS shop over the years and very much enjoy them. However, the one thing that would massively help with my annual budgeting would be knowing which items you’re working on and planning to offer during the year. Along with the budgeting, it would also save me a lot of time and regretful purchases elsewhere.
For example, if i knew this cloth was being remade I could save up towards it and the associated tailoring costs etc. When you release new items, at relatively short notice, anything on the higher cost side eg the Donegal coat, luxury cardigan, jacketing cloth can’t be afforded and, if there was a need for it, then I may already have settled for something not as good from somewhere else.
Of course, I’m sure there are negatives/practicalities to consider with this approach from your wider perspective….
Stay well.
Thank you NR, that is very helpful to know, and I’ll keep it in mind.
There are certain practicalities around it, yes, for example we don’t know something will actually be going ahead until production begins, and production can delay things by up to a month. But I’ll try to give extra warning when I can in the future.
I’d second NR’s point, having had similar experience.
I’m surprised to read that there isn’t certainty about something going ahead until production actually begins. Having worked in manufacturing for more than one company, including time spent in production planning, my uniform experience was that companies have production schedules planned in advance and whilst there is a degree of uncertainty of the precise timing of production for an order (due to the possibility of raw materials delivery being delayed, unplanned machine breakdown etc.), perhaps up to a month as you suggest, companies will certainly know what orders are on the books and will have at least a notional schedule for production. Contracts are signed, orders placed, raw materials ordered and so on. It should be possible, then, to have a reasonably clear idea of what’s in the pipeline for the year ahead. Surely it’s a matter of knowing precisely when something is going ahead rather than if it is. Of course, global pandemic pretty much throws it all out the window!
Thanks RT.
You’re right when it comes to repeat orders of the same products.
But as you’ll be aware, many of the things we do are new developments, and those go through sampling up to three times before production is confirmed. Often, sampling also doesn’t produce something that’s satisfactory, and the product is dropped.
This process is similar at other brands.
Hi Simon,
Are there any updates with H&S with re-making this exact tweed? Thanks
Not at the moment, no
I like many on here loved the look of Simon’s jacket, and was looking for a similar tweed. I found one that is similar (perhaps a shade darker with more blue in the weave) in Abraham Moon’s “Shetland Tweed” cloth. I wanted something a bit lighter than the Holland and Sherry cloth, and this one is around 370g. It made up beautifully, and is a bit softer than Harris Tweed as well.
I’m interested in commissioning a jacket like this…is there a tailor in London that would be appropriate (keeping in mind your point about letting the tailor cut his/her style)? Or do you think I would be better served waiting until one of the Neopolitan tailors resumes visits here (lockdowns permitting).
Wait for a visiting tailor, Brendan. So many have tried to make this style work with someone local who doesn’t normally make it, and it’s never the same
Thanks Simon
With this jacket, how have you found the ability to button it up to the top in the cold? Has it worked well? And do you do it enough to justify the compromise in design that it required?
It does work well, but to be honest no, I rarely use it. I’m not sure if I’d do it again
Hi Simon, how versatile have you found this jacket? I am looking at something similar but I’m not sure how the orangey colour will pair with other things.
I’ve found it very versatile, so much so that I’ve made it into a waistcoat and a coat over the years – and then when the cloth was discontinued, I bought it myself in order to keep it available. Have a look at the post on it here
It’s not as orangey as those images suggest