In the past week we have confirmed three new brands for the pop-up shop on Savile Row: Adret, Prologue and The Anthology.
Hong Kong tailor and shop Prologue will be there in week 1 (February 19 to 23), while The Anthology and Adret will be featured in week 2 (February 26 to March 2).
Adret (above) is the brainchild of Adam Rogers, a menswear regular who has been obsessively putting together his own brand and products over the past three years.
A photographer and illustrator as well as designer, Adam and his co-founder Seto Adiputra have been putting together a collection inspired by a very relaxed idea of elegance.
Expect everything muted, unlined and very comfortable.
This won't be the official launch of the brand, but rather a preview, with the bags, knitwear and glasses on show. @adret_official
The Anthology (above) is two shops in Asia - one in Hong Kong and one in Taiwan - run by a combination of a Chinese tailoring workshop and our very own Buzz Tang (in the orange jacket).
I say one of our own because Buzz worked in the pop-up shop previously, while completing his studies in London.
The Anthology is using the Chinese workshop to make full-bespoke tailoring with rather Italian aesthetics, and will also be bringing some of its new range of ready to wear.
Their bespoke starting prices are: 2-piece suit, £1,370; jacket, £1,000; trousers £470. They require two fittings for a first commission, and will be back in the UK in early June.
You can see examples on their Instagram @TheAnthology.
Finally, Prologue (above) will be there in week 1. I covered Prologue before (post here) following a visit to their store in Hong Kong last year.
Like The Anthology, Prologue are taking advantage of a Chinese workshop that makes to a high level, but adding their own international level of taste and style.
However, they only offer semi-bespoke/made to measure, as they work from standard blocks rather than drafting afresh, and the chest isn't usually hand-padded.
The advantage to that is a very good price, with suits from £850. More shots @PrologueHongKong
These, added to Bryceland's, Optimo and Joshua Ellis, will make a really nice mix at the pop-up next month. And we also plan to announce one or two more soon.
Thanks everyone.
#pitti
Hi Simon,
Will Permanent Style-branded products be on offer as well? I’m thinking specifically of your Finest Knitwear. Thank you.
Yes, sorry – as always, there will be a full range of PS products available, including the knitwear, polos, watch caps, bridge coats and trench coats.
Hi Simon
When will the watch caps be available ?
They’re coming back from the factory tomorrow, and will be publicised in a post on Friday. But I’ve just put the stock on the shop now, in case you want to pre-order.
Any more details re pricing for the Prologue and Anthology- ie suits, outerwear, trousers, jackets
Thanks
Sure, I will add Anthology and broaden Prologue
Hi Simon,
Will you restock PS Finest Knitwear at the pop-up or will it be only sizes/colors currently available online?
Thanks.
Only the ones currently available – we’re in the process of agreeing a new order, but it won’t be here in time for the shop.
Hi Simon,
Under 1400 for bespoke is well below anything even the more affordable traveling Italian tailors can offer.
I really liked your articles about production (suits and shirts) in India – the morale I took from them is that quality is quality and it can be found in Asia. To that end, have you had a chance to have something made by Anthology? Will we see a review prior to the pop up?
Cheers,
M
Hi M. Yes, you’re really only likely to get to that level with overseas production.
I am having something made by The Anthology but it will only be at the fitting stage at the pop-up.
Mr. Crompton
Where will Pop Up take place in Savile Row?
Number 37. Same location we were before Fortnums, and where Fox was recently as well
Hi Simon,
what other brands will there be in the next pop up?
Yes, see the previous post here
What will be the opening hours for the pop up please?
11-7
Hi Simon:
How many fittings does a suit from Prologue need?
Thanks
Cut
Usually just one. In Hong Kong they usually go straight to something approximating finish, but interestingly on the road they often use a basted fitting instead, as they feel this make it less likely they’ll need further fittings, which of course would be more delayed if the customer is waiting for another trunk show
Thanks Simon! So considering I’m just visiting London; it wouldn’t be advisable to order one suit? Considering the single fitting? Or by going straight to something finish you mean that from the measurement appointment would be enough?
Thanks Again!
It might be. They’d probably want to see you again either way, but do contact them to check.
Hi Simon, can we expect to read more about your prologue and anthology commissions any time soon?
Prologue soon, yes. Anthology isn’t ready yet
Hi Simon,
Your website has been enormously instructive for me. Thanks for everything.
I wondered if you would provide some quick suggestions for anyone considering a suit from Anthology. I saw pictures on their Instagram profile of your herringbone suit.
I’m a foreigner living in Taipei, and I’ve embarked on a project of rebuilding my wardrobe of tailoring while also experimenting with the house styles of different bespoke tailors. Anthology seems to be the only place in Taipei with a house style, and their price point is affordable, which is great for someone like me who is just starting out in the world of bespoke and will invariably make some mistakes while figuring out what works for him.
In that spirit, I’m starting with a four-season navy business suit. The guys at Anthology suggested Crispaire, half-lined (considering how hot it gets in Taiwan).
Understanding that much of this relates to one’s build and preferences, do you have any general suggestions regarding what Anthology does and doesn’t do best, or on the fabric choice?
If it helps, I’m about six foot with a trim but very high natural waist, very broad shoulders that roll forward, and long arms and legs. I find padded and extended shoulders, and a lot of drape, often exaggerate what needs no exaggeration, resulting in a “power suit” effect. For this reason, I went in expecting to ask for a spalla camicia shoulder and, to even out my already high waist, a two-button jacket. The guys recommended instead sticking with their house shoulder (which seems to be what you have), and a three roll two with a lower button stance. Recognizing that their typical extended shoulder might not flatter me, they said they would cut closer to my natural shoulder than they otherwise might. I provisionally agreed to these suggestions, thinking it best not to push them away from their house style, especially because they don’t use a lot of padding anywhere; but I have maybe three or four weeks before the first fitting, and I can change anything at that time. I thought the trial jacket they provided looked quite good. I also went with pleats and cuffs because I feel they help balance out my shoulders.
Thanks in advance for any quick thoughts you might be able to provide on your experience!
Hi. I haven’t completed the suit with Anthology, so I can’t comment in depth yet, but so far it has been good – and sounds like the best option for you, given where you are.
Crispaire is a good choice. Not great for a winter in Europe, but I don’t know what winters are like there. And no fabric will be perfect for every season of the year.
On the style choices, it sounds like you have made good ones. The 3-roll-2 will stop the jacket being too long, and it sounds like their structure will suit you too. Plus it’s nice to hear they will cut the shoulder a little closer.
I wouldn’t worry at this stage – it sounds like you’re on the right lines. Just make sure you communicate any thoughts or concerns you have to the guys along the way.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate it!
Hi Simon,
Can you please advise on these Hong kong tailors as far as quality and price , also about the process How many days I need in Hong Kong, for at least one fitting, I have heard about W Chang, The Anthology, Dream Bespoke, And Raja Fashion which seams cheaper, I live in Los Angeles ,
Thanks in Advance
Jacob
Hi Jacob,
I would ignore Dream Bespoke and Raja Fashion.
On the other two, WW Chan is a great tailor, with history and a good pedigree. The Anthology is a younger outfit, but also high quality. I’d recommend both