“I’ve had my shirt in the PS Oxford fabric for three months now, and it’s worn in so nicely. It’s been worn once or twice a week, softened steadily, and now feels like an old friend.”
I was going to start this post - announcing the availability of finished shirts in PS Oxford fabric - with some of my own experiences. But how much nicer is it to use the words of a reader, as emailed to me last week?
There’s nothing nicer that getting this kind of feedback, particularly when it’s something you’ve worked on so hard yourself personally.
So, to clarify: the oxford shirt fabric that I developed with Canclini, and has been available just as raw fabric for the past five months, is now on the shop site as finished shirts.
You can buy them here.
As with the denim shirts, these are made by Luca Avitabile in Naples, with handwork in the collar, armhole, buttons and buttonholes.
They have single-cuffs and button-down collars - with that lovely natural roll to the collar that Luca and I designed for my bespoke shirts. It means the shirt rolls around a jacket lapel when open, but also encircles a tie when buttoned, rather than lying flat on top of it.
They are available in four sizes: Small, Medium, Large and Extra-Large (precise sizing and measurements on the shop page).
As ever, we recommend comparing these measurements to a shirt you already have to get the best idea of fit.
However, there are also free returns, so you can buy two and send one back, or exchange easily.
Returning to my personal experiences, I’ve found my PS Oxford shirt fills a specific gap in the wardrobe: smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - but also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal and casual better than any other shirt I have.
I find the PS Oxford is now my default setting, going under anything except worsted suits, and providing a calm backdrop to the brightest patterns or loudest colours.
It is what I put on at the weekend, with jeans or chinos, and then worry about what interesting shoes, knitwear or outerwear are going to go with it.
In terms of details on the fabric itself: PS Oxford is designed as the perfect combination of rugged, traditional oxford shirts and modern desires for fineness and performance.
The things that set a traditional oxford shirt apart, such as originals from Brooks Brothers, are generally a heavier weight, a thicker yarn, and a subtle variation in the blue and white yarns that leads to a varied, slubby appearance.
The weight of good cotton is what makes the shirt comfortable, soften with age, and feel lived-in and personal, while the thicker yarn makes it more casual.
So the PS Oxford uses a thick, coarser yarn in the weft to get this effect (single-ply 10-count). But in the warp, it uses two yarns of a finer cotton (two-ply 90-count).
Having two yarns in the warp means it has a similar thickness to the weft, but the higher thread count gives the fabric a nicer feeling overall.
The final cloth still has that traditional texture, but avoids some of the downsides of short-staple cotton. The perfect combination, hopefully.
Here’s another reader quote to demonstrate what all this produces - from Nigel in a comment on the website:
“I received my PS Oxford button down yesterday from Simone Abbarchi. Cloth and shirt are exactly as I’d hoped. I’m almost wishing for cooler weather so I can wear and enjoy! Thanks to Simon and Simone! N”
Fortunately, that cooler weather is now here.
I hope you all enjoy the shirts, and do let me know if you have any questions.
Simon
Photography: James Holborow and Jamie Ferguson
Simon
What size would you wear? I’m 6ft, 15.5 in neck, similar build to you
Medium
Hi Simon,
Will the cloth be available again?
Thanks
Yes, but not for a few months I’m afraid
Hey Simon. Would you say the Oxford is smart enough to wear with odd grey trouser to an office? The fabric looks pretty casual in your pictures but the one on Luca avitabiles Instagram makes it look fairly smart and smooth
Yes, I think it is. You wouldn’t wear it with a business suit, but with trousers and a jacket it would be fine.
Thanks Simon.
1) How would you compare the weight of the oxford to your everyday denim? ie. which would wear more comfortably in hot/humid weather?
2) When would the everyday denim rtw shirts be restocked?
Hi Simon,
Do you know the measurement of the cuff for a size Large? I am 6ft 195pounds but have small wrists.
Beautiful looking shirt btw!
Thanks
I don’t, but I’ll check
Cuff widths now added…
Hi Simon,
Could you describe in a more detail what do the measurement numbers mean? Why two numbers in the body length? Also sleeve length looks a bit weird to me, mine is usually like 20cm larger.
Thanks
Sorry, the formatting went awry a little bit there. Corrected now
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
Where did you find the lovely brown herringbone jacket ( on the last picture ) ?
It’s bespoke in a vintage cashmere – see post here from last week
Hello Simon, Looks like a very nice shirt.
“…encircles a tie when buttoned…”
So what are the collar measurements?
Best,
Max
Another good point. I’ll add them now
As I said elsewhere: I had a button down made by Luca Avitabile on my bespoke pattern, and I am more than happy with the shirt. The cloth is amazing, and getting better with each wash.
Please consider adding a striped version and/or pale pink. Really. Please.
Will do!
I completely agree with Z. We wait it Simon 😀
A striped/bengal version would be great. I am personally not so much for pink shirts.
I’m thoroughly obsessed with that suede cardigan; where is it from again?
Connolly. Last season though, not sure if they still have them.
Hermes also makes them, also via Seraphin.
The PS clothing range is really stepping up now… any plans for a new knitwear colour that would compliment this and the denim cloth… mid grey maybe??
Not currently…
Now that you’re 100% Permanent Style will we see more products or existing products more consistently available?
The trajectory will be the same as recent years – no change there. So one or two new things each season, and trying to keep stock up, but still keeping relatively small runs so we can still offer good pricing and avoid sales – because there’s no stock excess.
I’ll be writing a post about this next week as well
Could it be worn untucked, or is it too long?
Too long really. It’s intended to be tucked in
Hey Simon
1) How would you compare the weight of the oxford to your everyday denim? ie. which would wear more comfortably in hot/humid weather?
2) When would the everyday denim rtw shirts be restocked?
1) The denim is lighter and could be worn more of the year
2) At the end of this year hopefully
Hi Simon,
Can we know what size do you wear in the pictures?
Best,
D.E
Simon
What are your plans for your clothing range? Would creating your own pieces prevent you from recommending others (Mercer & Drakes spring to mind as good OCBDs). I know you view yours as superior, but it would be a real shame if we missed out on other brands (often less expensive) because you focussed on your product that you are selling.
I am slightly echoing what I said earlier, a post on the PS ‘manifesto’ (especially now it is full time), so we know what we are reading and in what context would be v helpful
Thanks, and good questions.
No, my plan is always to restrict my clothing to the point where I can happily also recommend and comment on the offerings of others. Given others release dozens of new products every season, and I might do a couple, hopefully that will continue to be the case. Mine will also tend to be quite restricted and quite niche.
Good to know, thanks. On that note, are mercer supposed to be decent (entirely different cut / design to yours, much more american old school prep)
Yes, absolutely.
Oxford Shirt, wonderful to wear, but how could you create with out a pocket.
We are all glued to our smart phones (iPhones fit breast pockets) Moral, clothing functional?
On this type of more casual shirt, do you cut the cuff on your watch side a bit larger? I remember either an old post, or old comment, where you said you didn’t since the shirt cuff will not stay in place if a bit on the larger side. However, I notice in these pictures, you are wearing a GMT, which is a bit larger since it is a sports watch…Thanks
I used to on old shirts, but I don’t anymore. Even a GMT is fine unless you like very tight, flush to the wrist cuffs, like some Neapolitans
Hi Simon great shirts.May I ask what’s the journal you are writing on and where can it be bought?
Thanks
It was a.present I’m afraid. Bought in Venice I think
Hi Simon,
I purchased one of your demon shirts during the last run (size large). Am I right in assuming the sizes are the same with the new oxford shirts?
Thanks
Yes, that’s right.
The polo shirts are slightly different, but the denim and Oxford shirts are the same
Hi Simon,
Just ordered a size M. My shoulders are 18.5-18.75 inches but my collar size is actually 14.75 inches. Is it possible to alter and take in the collar?
Not really Bernie. It might still be OK though, particularly if you plan to wear it open necked
I see – will see how it fits then, thanks!
How long are the collar points? Thanks.
Too close to everyday denim to interest me.
A grey flannel would have been great or a dark navy.
I do think that the PS items have to avoid duplication.
Any flaneur worth his salt has got at least a couple of Oxford cottons whereas the denim was that little bit different.
Thanks Jason. This Oxford is also rather different to anything people are likely to have in their wardrobe, given its thickness and single/double warp/weft mix.
It’s also worth noting that the shirts are not driven by an aim of producing a broad range of RTW pieces, but rather developing fabrics that are generally missing in the bespoke market, and then also making RTW versions for those that don’t use a tailor.
Cheers
In your view, does a front placket help the collar stand up, as is sometimes claimed? Or is it purely a style feature?
If it does, it’s a very small effect. Far more important is the angle of the collar and the structure/shape of the collar band
Simon, that was a different Jason commenting. Do you happen to know the length of the collar points for comparison?
Thanks.
Terrific article on the sourcing, design and construction of an Oxford shirt. Very informative and well written.
A couple of questions:
First what watches are you wearing in the photographs. They nicely complement the look.
And secondly, not directly related but you reference in previous articles bespoke shirts made by CEGO NY and Budd London. In your opinion how do they compare?
Thanks.
For the watches, look up the ‘My watches’ article on the site.
On the makers, I’m afraid I havent tried CEGO so can’t really compare…
The shirt arrived today and I must say I could not be happier. The cut and finish are great and the fabric feels it will last for years. Please consider adding more colours to the range!
Nice! Thanks Pedro
Hi Simon,
In the pictures above, I believe your PS oxford has pleated shoulders.
Just got mine from the mail and the shoulder seems to be plain. I like the overall fit, especially the collar, but wanted to confirm with you whether or not there should be pleated shoulders, thank you.
Hi Bernie. Only very slightly – just a touch of fullness there
Thanks – the fabric is lovely, unlike the many cardboard-like Oxford fabrics out there. Looking forward to wearing it in.
Nice
I bought one and fell in love. I wanted to buy another (XL) but they are now out of stock. I hope that you will restock soon.
Sorry, yes. We will do more though
Just received a shirt and I’m very impressed by the quality and attention to the details. Thank you.
One thing I wanted to comment about is the packaging. It came in a rather weak plastic bag. While for the UK delivery it might be fine, but it’s a questionable choice for the international orders.
And I have a question, just our of curiosity. On a plank for buttons – it’s sewed to the shirt only for the lower buttons, while under the top three buttons it’s left untouched. What’s the purpose of such maneuver?
Thanks Igor, noted and I’ll have a look at that.
I’m not quite sure on the buttons – maybe drop me an email with a picture?
After receiving this shirt, I have sent you two emails with questions about shrinkage and washing instructions and have not received a response.
My apologies Craig, we’ve had a lot of emails in the past couple of days – you will get a response soon. We normally aim for 48 hours
Hi
When’s delivery on these?
On one you have ordered? Should be fulfilled in 3-4 working days
Hi,
Could you have a check – ordered on 3 October.
Best
Sure, will do
Simon,
What celluloid pen are you using in that photo?
Regards!
Dupont ballpoint, brown lacquer
Dear Simon,
Do you happen to know when size Large will be restocked?
Best wishes
Not soon I’m afraid. Next year
Dear Simon,
Please may I ask what material the buttons are on the shirt? Just received mine and it doesn’t look like a mother of pearl as one would expect
They are mother of pearl, yes. We use a slightly different shade of MOP to give the shirt a slightly vintage look. Do contact me by email if you would like any more detail
Hi Simon,
I was wondering if there was any fusing in the collar of these?
Thanks
Yes Jonny, we prefer a light fusing to a floating lining. I prefer it on all my bespoke too
Hi Simon,
If someone already had a good pale blue oxford in their wardrobe, would you say there’s also room for this? And I suppose by extension, can a man have too many blue/pale blue shirts…?
To be honest, no I don’t think so. My wardrobe is 50% plain blue shirts in different cloths.
And I personally have two blue oxfords of ours, two striped ones, and trialling a white.
Of course, it depends how many shirts you have and can afford, and whether ours is different in some way to what you already have (eg ours is a little heavier, not so dressy)
Got to quickly try on shirt. Simon was nice enough to let me in unused changing cabin because I was in a rush. Really lovely shirt! Love material, love the collar. But probably not worth buying for me… 1. I’d really prefer extra 5-10mil to a collar. It’s super tight. 2. Sleeves are almost 2 inches too long. And what finally puts me into not worth it, is that cuffs are very tight and im too used to my smartwatch…
Now does someone knows if Luca Avitabile is doing made to measure and how much more this shirt would cost in bespoke fit?
Luca does bespoke in this yes (not MTM) – and it’s not a lot more. But you would still have to buy the cloth from PS as it’s exclusive. Cheers
I actually emailed him about made to measure, does he have minimum bespoke order and what’s the price of a bespoke shirt (ideally I’d do 3 shirts over some time, striped Oxford, lighter denim and something formal), but 24h later no answer! I guess he is too busy!
Yes he is pretty busy, but also I wouldn’t expect anyone that isn’t in an office all day to necessarily reply with 24h…
Best to confirm all the other details with him
Will do!
Hello, Simon,
your creations are always very beautiful.
With the Oxfordshirt I am a little surprised concerning the measure indication “Body” and/or about the length of the shirt.
If “Body” should be the back length, it seems a little short to me. Am I right with my assumption that the shirt is actually deliberately kept somewhat shorter?
Kind regards
Yes, that’s what Body refers to. The length from the bottom of the collar to the bottom hem. I haven’t found them particularly short – how tall are you?
Simon
Hello, Simon,
Sorry I’m a little late. I’m not very tall, a little smaller than you. I compared the length with my business shirts, which are all about 78 cm long (38, S). If the OXford still shrinks a bit, the difference could be significant.
Kind regards
OK, thanks Michael. The shrinkage is small but there will be some in the length 1-2cm
Hi Simon,
Just wore my shirt for the first time. It is incredible! I look forward to it softening and wearing this for a very long term (and also grabbing one in white soon)!
I have a small… maybe stupid question. As this is my first high quality OCBD I wanted to be careful and do it rightl. Do you unbutton the two collar buttons before washing it? I was worried it might affect the collar role in someway if I do/don’t. Thank you!
Don’t worry Daniel, it might be high end but it’s pretty robust. I would undo the buttons, but nothing bad will happen if you don’t.
Just don’t tumble dry, wash more than 40, or do a super high spin
I washed mine 3 times by now at 40 and I’d say high spin. they sort of… ‘hardened’ but not much shrinkage if any. one suggestion I got was to use laundry bags.