Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter.
As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to appear. (They still ask, and readers do too - so it feels worth restating.)
Some previous names, some new ones, but all things I've tried out myself and can therefore recommend directly.
1 J.Girdwood cordovan notebook
https://www.jgirdwood.com/collections/leather-goods/products/cordovan-notebook-cover-burgundy
£425
I bought one of these from James during the pop-up, and it is beautiful to use. There will already be many big fans of cordovan out there, but the material is particularly nice when held and handled like this. Smooth yet tough, quickly moulding and ageing.
It’s expensive, but neither cordovan nor hand-sewing are cheap. And you only need one (if you can be that restrained): it refills with Moleskin soft-cover notebooks. I particularly recommend the grey lined ones, as the grey elastic goes nicely over the top of the deep-red cordovan.
2 Linnegatan 2 / 100 Hands brushed cotton shirt
http://www.linnegatan2.com/100-hands-black-line?blockid=5&catid=93
£247
Winter is an excuse for cosy shirts in a flannel or other brushed cotton, and this cloth is a particularly nice example. I have it in a bespoke shirt, and it’s warm yet not much bulkier than a normal oxford shirt, for example. The colour is also close enough to white to be very wearable.
Linnegatan’s shirt, made by 100 Hands, is a one-piece collar made with slightly longer collar points than usual, to allow it to curve nicely out from the neck and remain tucked under a jacket collar.
3 Yard-O-Led Perfecta ballpen
https://www.yard-o-led.com/product/the-perfecta/perfecta-victorian-ballpen
£410
The decorative art that adorns Yard-O-Led pens has always appealed to me (as well as the fact they’re still made in Birmingham), but it wasn’t until last year that I finally got one. It now serves as attractive decoration to my desk - or even to a jacket pocket, supplanting the handkerchief with something no less beautiful but rather more useful.
Given that the decoration was the appeal, it shouldn’t be a surprise that I chose the Perfecta from the Victorian range, with its swirling design, flared top and undulating clip. The only downside of this model is that it is a ballpen rather than a rollerball (oil-based rather than water-based ink, and therefore a little stickier/blobbier). I do also have fountain pens, before anyone asks, but find them too impractical when making notes on the hoof.
4 Beige / Camber USA crewneck sweater
€110
I visited Beige Habilleur while in Paris a couple of months ago, and tried on both the Barbarian and Camber products. They’re heavyweight, made for work and sport. Personally I have yet to accept rugby shirts as part of my wardrobe, but I got one of the Camber sweatshirts and it is really interesting.
Oversized (even a Small, on me at 6 foot) and really tough, it’s the kind of thing to hike in or play in the park in (assuming you’re not do construction work in it, as originally intended). It’s 10% polyester, which helps with the toughness; cross-knit, which gives it horizontal stretch; and heavily brushed on the inside, making it warm. Different to other favourite hoodies like Merz b Schwanen or Loopwheeler in many ways (including price) but I’d readily play football in this, where I’d hesitate with either of the others.
5 Berg & Berg western corduroy shirt
https://bergbergstore.com/products/fernando-turndown-collar-shirt-black
£219
Lightweight corduroy, like brushed cotton, is a cosy material in winter and I recently had a tan one made that has been lovely. The only downside is corduroy’s friction, which means it can stick a little under a jacket.
Berg & Berg’s ‘Fernando’ shirt will probably not always be worn under tailoring, but the cut and collar do work well as such, and the combination of cord and western styling feels original. The breast pockets, too, are distinctive and perhaps subtler than similar shirts. The colours are interesting: white and navy will be quite simple to wear, but I’m trying black. Which might be just a little easier than burgundy.
6 Richard James pale-grey cord trousers
£155
I've mentioned before that I find Richard James worth a look each season for its variations on classic menswear. I don't like some things (eg curved fronts on DB jackets) but the colours are often unusual and there's always tailoring at the heart of it.
In the bespoke shop recently (opposite the RTW shop) they've had a selection of ready-made trousers in a really good range of colours and materials. Pictured above are a pale-grey cord and olive Loro Piana Denim. Hems are unfinished are finished for free; other alterations can be paid for. The ones left are currently on sale, at £155 each.
7 Bryceland’s sunglasses
£345
Ethan has just brought out a range of Bryceland’s sunglasses, made with fellow Tokyo-resident Solakzade. I think they’re just on the line between distinctive and dandy.
Cut from vintage acetate and inspired by a 1950s French design, the frames are chunky and fairly conservative were it not for two sharp corners around the outside bottom corners. And except for the colours. I like the green (very dark, almost black, shown top) with a dark lens, but they’re also offered in a light grey and pink (with dark or light lens options; grey above, pink below). The pink is the right pink; but it’s over the other side of the line - particularly with a light lens.
8 P Johnson merino hoodie
https://row.pjt.com/collections/knitwear/products/navymerinohoodedjumper
$195
Whatever one might think about their tailoring or branding, I’ve always liked the ready-to-wear products at P Johnson, as well as the styling. This hoodie is a good example, made in a fine merino wool (and so harder wearing as well as not too expensive) and designed to be a layering piece under tailoring. There are also nice touches like the overlapping opening of the hood.
I’ve liked fine hoodies like this for years, initially having some from Al Bazar in Milan, before upgrading to MTM ones from Saman Amel. I don’t usually wear them under tailoring though - more usually a gilet or shirt/jacket.
9 Budd flannel dressing gown
https://www.buddshirts.co.uk/nightwear/mens/dressing-gowns
£750
Budd do their dressing gowns made to order, at a small uplift on the RTW price - £825 rather than £750 and I spotted this gorgeous wool-flannel one in the shop the other week: dark grey with black piping.
Most dressing-gown designs and colours are too strong or bright for my taste, but this was perfect. Beautiful, yet a touch more masculine than the others. The make is excellent too - by Budd’s exclusive gownmaker in the UK, who trained with Sulka back in the day. You can see it in things like the width of the shawl, and the length and shape of the ties.
This one isn’t on the website, but there’s a made-to-order system where you can order this or any other.
10 Trunk shetland sweaters
https://www.trunkclothiers.com/products/trunk-berwick-shetland-crew-dark-olive
£160
Shetland sweaters are hardly unusual these days - they’re as much a staple of menswear ranges as oxford shirts or flannels. But I’d pick out the own-brand Trunk ones for a few reasons. First, they’re a circular knit, so no side seams, which gives the naturally stretchy shetland even more play. Second, the wool itself is a touch lighter and softer than most shetlands. And third, the colour selection is good.
There isn’t the variation in the yarn that the Anderson & Sheppard ones have, but the grey, olive and straw are perfect, with cream and orange as bright options. I wish the blue was a dark navy, but that’s about it. The neckline is also quite high, which I like.
Thanks for the recs. I have an ancient silk T&A “Summer” dressing gown in beautiful madder silk which has unfortunately seen better days. I was looking for something more substantial to see me into my dotage and the Budd may be just the ticket! I seem to recall you had one made by Stephen Lachter ages ago? – has it held up ok?
Yes, that’s right I did.
It has held up well, but there’s not a lot to it – I prefer the Budd style of these, in the shawl roll, the cuffs and everything else
I am very pleased with the Budd dressing gown I bought so thanks for the recommendation!
Oh good. Thanks for letting me know Paul
Simon what would you wear a black shirt with/under?
It would be quite a narrow range of things, all in cold colours. So grey flannels, for instance, with a jacket like my green tweed Zizolfi
That dressing gown is outstanding! You mentioned that Budd has a made to order service. So, could the gown be made a bit longer then the standard length?
Yep
Hi Simon, what is your opinion on Berg&Berg quality? I have a few items of which I am satisfied but was curious of your opinion. Keep up the excellent work by the way.
Thanks.
It’s good, pretty reflective of the price for online
Hi Simon, just out of curiosity, what are some of your favorite fountain pens? I agree that they aren’t always practical, but that hasn’t stopped me from building quite an extensive collection of them. My go-to favorites for daily use are Pelikan M800 and Montblanc 146/149 (depending on my activity). Parker Duofold Centennial is also a favorite.
My favourite is probably a Graf von Faber Castell guilloche. Also a Kaweko in brass – they’re such great value
Could you add a link to the moleskin notebook you referenced? I am hesitant to buy the leather cover without being able to add a good stock of the notebooks. Thanks
Don’t worry, there’s lots of them that fit.
It’s the classic Moleskine notebook, soft cover, and I have it lined but you could have blank, grid or anything
https://us.moleskine.com/en/classic-notebook-brown/p1204?variantName=z1DaaFormat&variantValue=Pocket%20(cm%209×14)
Simon,
Regarding the cordovan cover.
How does it compare to Equus who appear to have a similar product ?
I have an old Hermes that I am desperate to retire due to the ludicrous cost of refills.
Jason
I haven’t tried the Equus one I’m afraid, so can’t compare easily
Yard – O- Led is a fabulous company who make amazing handmade products.
The craftsmanship is off the Richter scale.
I’ve got the Viceroy Grand which is a rollerball and won’t write with anything else. The engraving is absolutely beautiful – the skill of the hand chipping is truly something to behold.
Bravo Simon for recommending Birmingham’s finest. It’s one of the best Christmas gifts going for somebody who appreciates real art.
No self-respecting flaneur should be without one !
Jason
I hate to be a negative commentator but the term flaneur really is a bit much to be used every single comment.
George, sorry to be positive but I reserve the right to speak as I like and doubtless will keep flaneuring on !
You can of course say what you like yourself Jason. But keep in mind the point of this forum is comments that others want to read and find interesting
Hello Simon
Given your exquisite taste and appreciation of the finer things in life, I am interested to know what car you drive.
Thanks
I don’t own a car. No need in London really. Also a better environmental choice if you can make it work
But without a car how do you manage simple family events? Taking your children to football or ballet, going for a trip to the seaside etc?
Most child activities are just as easily reached by bus, and often more pleasant and quicker. Plus you get to look at and talk to each other.
Cycling together is becoming easier too.
For trips outside town, we would either take the train then a taxi, or occasionally rent a car – eg when we go camping. But that’s so rare it’s silly to have a car sitting there for it.
It’s not even in large part an environmental decision. We just didn’t want to spend the money on it when we were young, and have never really needed it since.
Seems like you tried many sweatshirts over the years. Which ones are favorite? And how do you usually wear them? Just for home leisure and activities with children or for casual walk in the city? Have you tried Sunspel sweatshirts and hoodies? You seem to like their t-shirts but never commented about their sweats. And what’s your opinion on sweatpants?
My favourites are Loopwheeler followed by Merz probably.
I don’t wear them in the city, no – they’re strictly weekend attire, at home, in the park etc
I haven’t tried the Sunspel ones, no, though I’m not sure they’re loopback.
Sweat pants are the devil. Maybe permissable if you’re ill at home with a fever. That’s it.
In the park? What does this mean?
Walking the dog, playing with the kids, simply having a stroll.
There is a middle-aged guy in my neighborhood who always wears carrot-shaped sweatpants and a hoodie, with a tweed jacket on top. It shouldn’t work, but it does, on him. He makes it look elegant, believe it or not.
What do you think of cuffs on jackets and in particular, dinner jackets?
Nice on dinner jackets but better on velvet jackets, and nice on overcoats.
Always look odd on sports jackets – I used to have a tweed one with them. They came off after a few months
Hi Simon,
I had a question about Trunk’s Shetland sweaters – are they made of Shetland wool? Their website states they’re made out of lambswool, does that mean wool coming from Shetland lambs??
May I ask a question on a different topic? Would you caution against any suit in vicuna or vicuna/cashmere combinations? Kiton has an elegant vicuna/cashmere offering, but I am concerned that the trousers would not hold up — especially because I am a judge and do a lot of sitting. Keith
I certainly would Keith, yes. It would be unlikely to wear well, and would be hard to keep a good crease as well
I want a monkey skull.
Simon,
Love this list – and tempted by the majority of them! I have a couple questions.
One of the first photos shows what appears to be a the skull of a young macaque with aged bone patina. May I ask – is this a resin example that can be found online (e.g. http://www.theevolutionstore.com) – or is the item the actual remains of the diminutive beast? Either way it’s a beautiful piece and would look great in a gentleman’s library.
Also, in the photo which features Bryceland sunglasses, there is a case (Sterling Silver?) that appears to be too thin/small to be a case for those sunglasses. The Brycelandco.com website doesn’t include cases. Please clarify the function of the beautiful case because it’s very attractive.
Cheers and thank you for sharing!
Thanks Robert.
Both those things are pieces owned by Ethan and not Brycelands stock for sale.
I don’t know what the function of the silver case is, but I can ask
I am not sure this top 10 is as useful as some of your past ones. Maybe the problem is the format (maybe 10 is too small a number) or that fall/winter items are still coming out. Still, a number of the things on this list (while they might be cool things) aren’t really fall/winter things, and a number of the other things are pretty niche. Aside from the shetlands, which I know plenty of sources for, I just don’t see myself buying anything on this list.
A couple formats that might be more helpful:
1. A piece where you highlight a few of your favorites in various categories, e.g. a few pieces of outerwear you really like, a few pieces of knitwear you like, a few pairs of rtw tailoring you like, etc. There are a lot of new interesting pieces that come out each season, and most of us will never get the chance to handle these pieces before ordering them (not everyone lives in NYC or London).
2. A piece where you highlight a few of your favorite pieces from various stores, e.g. a few of your favorite pieces from Drakes, or the Armoury, or Anglo-Italian, or elsewhere.
Thanks, nice points.
These are pretty idiosyncratic, particularly because I always try to bring in some new things rather than cover the same shops or brands. Noted on the more comprehensive options
Bravo Simon, for not owning a car, especially in London.
I used to be very embarrassed giving the same reply before, but not anymore.
What we have, or do not have, should never define us in any way.
My lifelong motto: Live and let live.
The gown is beautiful. I believe it is available from the Merchant Fox. I am not sure if it the same one, though it is made by Budd: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/gowns/products/fox-flannel-glen-check-dressing-gown
That’s a check, but yes it’s the same make
Hi Simon.
I’m looking to purchase a grey roll neck and just saw your post on the Private White site about theirs. Looks nice. I was about to get the one Drake’s has for this season which is a bit chunky and I merino but looks very similar. Also looked at Luca Faloni’s which is cashmere but seems lighter. How do you compare the private white to those two? What is more versatile, a chunky one or something like the Luca Faloni?
They’re rather different weights – the Drake’s is great but is more like the outerwear I describe in that piece. Also rougher – I wouldn’t wear it with just a T-shirt underneath.
The PWVC is lighter and could be worn around the house. More luxurious too with the cashmere.
And the Faloni is lighter still, best really under a jacket etc.
Thank you Simon.
What size do you take on the Private White cashmere rollneck? Can it be used under a jacket or just outerwear?
Small (3). And no, not really. You’d need something thinner under a jacket
Thanks for the list, Simon!
I don’t understand why the Camber is priced at over 100 Euro when you can easily order it elsewhere for about half that price….
Moreover, you could probably order even more cheaply by direct order from Camber if you shop in bulk. I am also curious how this sweatshirt stands up to similarly styled but cheaper options like Champion….
Well I don’t want bulk sweatshirts! One or two is fine for me.
I assume some of the pricing is selling it abroad, importing into the EU.
On Champion, their modern pieces are pretty cheaply made unfortunately. The collab lines, such as that done with Todd Snyder, is better, but still nowhere near as robust as this Camber
Hi Simon, I enjoy reading this kind of posts. Do you know exactly what fabric that shirt is made of? I would very much like to have a comparable bespoke or made to measure shirt made for the winter.
I don’t think that fabric is available anymore I’m afraid (I assume you mean the grey brushed cotton) as it was a seasonal one.
What size do you wear in the Trunk Berwick Crew sweater?
I’m guessing small as that was your reply in the Luca Faloni thread. I normally wear a 39 or 15.5 in shirts but when I measured my existing sweaters against the posted LF measurements small (36) looks to be best option.
I can’t find any actual measurements for the Trunk Berwick. I’m in the US so I can’t try them on…
Sorry, no I take Medium actually. Which Faloni thread was it where I said I take small? I’ll go and change it.
Thank you
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/10/luca-faloni-knitwear-a-high-quality-staple.html
You said medium first and then said “correction – mine are a small.”
I wear a 5 in a Merz B Schwann sweatshirt. I feel like I’m a little between sizes – sleeves would probably be a little short if I sized down.
Sorry Bill, I wear Small in the Luca Faloni, but Medium in the Trunk Berwick. Is that clear?
Hi Simon,
Merry Christmas and all the best in the new year. Wanted to buy a Berwick shetland in medium grey (I usually get your size and it has generally worked well). However they are out of the medium. I am tempted to buy a small as based on the measurements the difference seems only a couple of centimeters. Did you ever try the small?
No, sorry I didn’t
thanks – I just purchased a grey and camel beige cashmere crewneck (exchanging for navy – as the camel seems darker in person and is harder to match w/ trousers). Beautiful sweaters and nice fit… I also picked up their long sleeve Brera polo in Navy (also in small) – and really like this piece too.
Re point no. 5, how do you wear your tan cord shirt? i have a one and find it difficult to wear because a) the colour is too strong and b) any attempt to reign in the colour palette fails because, as you say, the fabric is difficult to layer under anything.
You’re right, it’s not easy. I find it’s good with jeans, navy chinos, maybe charcoal. Strong or dark basically. And worn under a jacket or coat where you have the help of.lining
Hi Simon – How would you compare Trunk vs Anderson & Sheppard in terms of Cashmere Crew Necks?
A&S has a few different ones (weights, designs) while I thin Trunk only has one. The Trunk ones are a little slimmer in the body, a little wider in the arm (the A&S model is fairly narrow in the sleeve). Best to compare measurements for those things though as ever
Hi Simon,
obviously an old post but I thought my question fits here best. I’d like to buy a high-quality and non-dandyish dressing gown (i.e., no New & Lingwood silk prints for me, though they are beautiful), but I am a little unsure about what prices are appropriate here. There are some cashmere offerings that are consistently priced at >2k (which is too much for me), and there are surprisingly little offerings in wool, but very similar designs are priced at ca. 400 at Derek Rose and at ca. 700 at, e.g., Budd. At the same time, T&A asks for 400 even for something made of cotton shirting. Is there any logic behind these prices, and could you point me at, so to say, the Crockett and Jones of wool dressing gowns, by which I mean something of decent quality but not blatantly overpriced? Thanks a lot for your insights, and keep up the great work, always looking forward to new articles.
Good point, I don’t know any that are good basics in that regard I’m afraid.
I would probably avoid cashmere, as it’s always going to be expensive (there’s a lot of it in a dressing gown).
And both wools and cottons will vary, as will the fineness of make – there are reasons why the Budd will be more expensive than the Derek Rose.
Thanks for your input. Yes, it’s surprising – apparently there are more high-end or somewhat costumey options than there are solid basics. Would be interesting to know the differences between Budd and Derek Rose, but I guess I’ll just stick to the latter then.
Sure Felix, if I get a chance to look into the differences between the two, I will
Simon,
Do you like burgundy shirts? And can it be worn with charcoal grey trousees
Not really, no. Dark-coloured shirts are always difficult, I would avoid them except navy at the most
Hi Simon, what do you think of Trunk’s Berwick crewnewck in Burnt Orange (https://www.trunkclothiers.com/products/trunk-berwick-shetland-crew-sweater-burnt-orange?variant=32328601731107)? Would you wear it? If yes, how would you style it? Thanks.
Personally, no I wouldn’t wear it. I think there are few bright colours like that which really look good, and from that selection I’d only pick the Old Gold, and possibly the Barn Red.
See here for the Old Gold worn
Much appreciated!
If Imay ask, what do you think about their brown option?
I haven’t seen that one in person. It looks nice though