How fashion writers do love a theme. Every time the shows roll around, there they are – in the front row (if they’re lucky), pens at the ready, all desperately searching for a theme that will tie all the different collections together.
They all have exactly the same brief after all: write an article reviewing the shows, telling readers what to expect this season. One article means one theme. With a few other observations tacked on the end. The complexity of designers’ thoughts is lost, the intricate suggestions boiled down to one idea.
This season, journalists are desperate to tie the fashion shows to the economy. What is ‘recession chic’? How have designers reacted to lower budgets? Is the rigour of big business dragging back the extravagance of design?
Everyone has reached the same conclusion. Depressed times mean conservative, worn-in investment pieces. The colour palette must be dark, the silhouettes simple and the items are classic.
They didn’t really need the shows to come up with that result; it was always going to be the same, no matter what came down the catwalks. Ignore the fact that Comme des Garçons showed pointy lime-green hats and leopard-print slippers; act with surprise when the winter collections are darker than summer. We need a theme and we need one now – a recession collection must be sombre and it must be conservative.
The only advantage of this avalanche of identical articles is that people are now talking about permanent style.
Permanent style is about investing in quality that will last – buying something that is actually cheaper per use, over its lifetime. Brogues, for example, that can be effectively remade every 10 years, resoled and relined for less than half the cost of the original. With the advantage of an upper that is moulded to your foot; with a patina that has been hand-painted by you through hundreds of polishes.
It is about knowledge of manufacturing processes and profit margins, so you know how to get value for money. Buying clothes that are rebranded, for example, by big chains that have the scale to offer bigger discounts in the sales.
It is about studying traditions, conventions and rules, so that your clothes are part of a cycle that goes around every 50 years, not every five. It is about knowing why those rules exist, so you can break them when their rationale no longer exists – like wearing white on a sunny winter’s day.
Permanent style is about longevity, taste and relishing the clothes you wear. To all those who, apparently, needed a recession to awake them to the virtues of this philosophy I say: welcome to the club. What took you so long?
Guest Comments »
1.
Simon,
You are just nailing everything in my view on each topic you cover, and doing so with great intelligence and perspective. I have gone out on a limb style wise myself, many times in the past, however, I can tell you one thing with complete assurance, call me a conservative, a traditionalist, or simply a Young Fogey, but you are still NOT going to find me in white on a sunny winter’s day.
Best,
Nicola
Comment by Nicola Linza — April 30, 2009 #
Guest comment:
Simon,
I must say that your, for lack of a better term, rant on permanent style is spot on. I love how you touch on all the facets of style, affordability, and my favorite, practicality, to the current environment.
However, I disagree that the winter collections need to be sombre. I believe that in these times it almost necessary for people to find comfort in happier more lively activities and items. Therefore, I propose we break convention and introduce some real pizazz and color to our winter/economic doldrums.
Just a thought, but great post nonetheless.
-Dru
Comment by Dru — May 1, 2009 #
Dru,
Your right, winter clothes don’t necessarily have to be sombre at all. It is, however, fairly inevitable that on average, designer’s collections in autumn/winter will be more sombre that the winter. Not a personal preference, just an observation.
Thanks for your thoughts
Simon