Incotex trousersDear Simon,
I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you said in a post a while ago that side straps should be positioned on the waistband seam, not the waistband itself, to make it more comfortable and add an extra inch to the rise. But on my suit trousers made by Graham Browne the straps sit on the waistband. If you say they are better that way then why are the tailors not making them up like this? And how does it make it more comfortable to wear?
I would also like to extend my trouser selection and was thinking of chinos, something you mentioned recently in a post, saying that a cream and faun and olive green are best to go for. What is the best weight cloth, as I would like to have these made by Graham Browne if they do them? The idea behind these is to have some weekend trousers that are not too formal but that I can wear with light jackets, cardigans, heavier jackets both in the summer and the winter. Further, is cotton and gabardine (like that lovely gabardine suit you had made at Choppin and Lodge) the same thing and if these are made up by Russell would they be machine washable?
Bradley
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Hi Bradley,
You’ve certainly been thinking this through. Hopefully your questions should be quite easy to answer though.
First, the side straps. Having them on the waistband, the seam or even below the band is largely a personal preference. All my Anderson & Sheppard suits, for example, have the strap on the seam and this is where I first encountered it. But others from Henry Poole, Cifonelli and Timothy Everest have them on the waistband, so Graham Browne is not alone. Most will change the position if you request it.
Although I do find it slightly more comfortable, the biggest reason to have it on the seam, for me, is the extra rise. I dislike wearing trousers on my natural waist, but I am painfully aware of its advantages in terms of hiding shirt cloth below the buttoning point of a jacket, and hiding the same when wearing a waistcoat. This strap position does not solve the problem, but does add about an inch of coverage.
On chinos, I would go ready to wear, to be honest. I have had chino-type trousers made by half a dozen tailors and not really liked any of them. The cloths and make mean they are never as casual as you envision. It’s painful to have to sort through all the different fits, but it’s worth it. My favourite is Incotex (regular leg style – it has a higher rise). Unfortunately the new Slowear store on South Molton Street in London only stocks slim and skinny fits, but Trunk normally has a decent selection of regulars.
By all means have smarter trousers made by a tailor. I would recommend corduroy, moleskin, (wool) gabardine and even a heavy drill cotton. Cotton gabardine, which was what the Choppin & Lodge suit was made from, I don’t think works as well as an odd trouser. And no, do not mashine-wash them.
Best
Simon
Bradley and Simon, for what it is worth, I’ve tried both ready to wear chinos and made to measure and agree with Simon. It takes time (and trial and error) to find the fit One brand I found and suggest worth the effort is Ring Jacket from Japan. Great for those of us no longer 20 something and still wanting to look smart. I get them from the Armoury in Hong Kong – they’ll do mail order – and adjustments in London James
Simon: What is the difference between Permanent Style 2015, which I already have, and The Finest Clothes in the World? Does the latter contain many of the same clothers as the former? Paul
Permanent Style 2015 is published by us, a summary of our favourite posts from 2015. It has a soft cover.
The Finest Menswear in the World is published by Thames & Hudson, so will be available worldwide in book shops. It is hard back, and the text is not available anywhere else. There is more information on it here:
http://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/07/the-finest-menswear-in-the-world.html
Hi Simon,
I’ve long been searching for the perfect pair of chinos, unfortunately without luck so far.
I know you recommend Incotex, but my understanding is that they only come with belt loops.
I was wondering if you have ever come across any brands and/or shops offering ready-to-wear chinos with side fasteners? Ideally with a somewhat high rise and a generous fit in the thigh / leg, but I realise that might be too much to ask for for ready to wear.
Best,
Mads
Richard James had some in the summer, and Anderson & Sheppard can do some (though both would be cotton trouser rather than the kind of chino you’d expect from Incotex etc – the latter are garment washed and sometimes piece dyed)
Hi Simon,
When it comes to chinos, most Incotex have raw lenght.
How would you recommend to have them hemmed? With cuffs, straight or “jeans style”?
Thanks.
Luca
Straight, generally, unless you want cuffs from a style point of view
Hi Simon,
I just had a pair of trousers made with my tailor in a mid weight cotton drill. Curious to hear why you said not to machine wash it?
All Best
Hello Simon,
What is your opinion on having cuffs on chinos? I use the term ‘chino’ as a more casual cotton pant made by the likes of Rota or Incotex.
I have never placed cuffs on my chinos, but do like the idea. I have purchased a new pair of all season chinos (100% cotton) in light beige from Rota (sartorial line mid-rise) and my plan is to wear them casually with a polo and trainers and also with an unstructured blazer such as a K-jacket from Bogliolo, worn with a collared shirt.
Thoughts?
PS. I was introduced to Rota by your site and really love their pants.
Thanks.
With trousers like that I think cuffs can be nice, but they will usually be the more unusual choice. It’s not a big decision either way, and quite personal, but I would try to have them made so you could change to plain bottoms later if you found you didn’t like it as much as cuffs.
Thanks Simon.