Hsin Qin Tang: I have been following your blog for over two years now. I have learned many things and I would like to know your opinion on what to wear for an upcoming occasion. My eldest sister is getting married this August and the wedding dinner is going to be held in Singapore.
I am looking to purchase my first suit and I was hoping you’d be able to help me out. I will also be going to Brighton, UK this September to study. I was hoping the suit might be able to come in handy there as well. I would appreciate it if you are able to get into the details, down to the smallest one. I realise I have not included my budget. I’d like to hear what you say first.
This question from Hsin Qin was far longer in the original, and requested information on everything from material for buttons to belt loops versus braces.
Hsin Qin, I will try to be brief and so fit in as much advice as possible – but as a regular reader of the blog I’m sure you realise many of the things I leave out are questions of personal taste. And there is more extensive advice elsewhere on the site (use that search function until it breaks!).
Broadly, there are two options for a wedding as a member of the general party: traditional and summer. Today, most men wear linen suits, checked suits, loud suits. They wear suits that used to be worn for leisure – except that no one wears a suit on the weekend any more.
There’s nothing wrong with that, but traditionally a wedding would be a lot smarter than the working week, not less. So the lounge suit would be swapped for tails or a three-piece suit, perhaps a nice peaked-lapel stroller with a buff waistcoat. If these were not available, a man would wear the single smartest thing he had from his work attire. This would probably be a dark navy, single-breasted suit, with a crisp white shirt and a satin tie in silver or bronze. Top it off with a white linen pocket square and a boutonnière.
If I were you, Hsin Qin, I would go for this last option. Then you will also have a navy suit to wear when you move to these great British Isles. With a blue shirt and dark, striped tie, it will be perfect for interviews and such.
As to the other details, have it made bespoke in Singapore if you know somewhere good. Go for two vents, two navy horn buttons, notch lapels, dark lining, medium weight, side tabs, uncuffed, slanted pockets, one break, matching socks and no tie bar. These choices are all for versatility and the maximum in time-proof style.
5 Guest Comments »
1.
As someone who wears a linen or cotton suit at weekends, weather-permitting of course (!), to walk the dog or take the offspring to the park, I’m a fan of the notion that, traditionally, the suit was originally an item of ‘leisure’ wear, and believe we should firmly continue this idea. Or maybe that says I’m finally passed all reason and help, and need counselling! Suits are for leisure pursuits as well as formal occasions.
This web-site is surely amongst the finest in its niche on the internet; keep it up.
Comment by Dandy Dan — May 19, 2009 #
2.
Hi Dandy Dan,
welcome to the club of the truly insane. I am not just a member, I have been nominated as president as it would have interfered with my other activities.
😉
But all kidding aside. I agree with you that there are people wearing suits for leisure. Just not the navy pin-stripe. The problem really is that to most people suit => navy/grey => very formal => not for weekends.
In reality a nice cream linen on a sunny afternoon will not be recognised as a suit by most. A suit made of cotton will likely never have entered most peoples mind.
Comment by Phil — May 19, 2009 #
3.
Dear President Phil!
You’re right. I’ve read somewhere – probably on this site, in fact – that the lighter the suit, the more informal it is; and there is a similar sense with the fabric, worsted being the most formal, linen/cotton the least. It’s a matter of finding the right combination for the right occasion, it seems.
Luck with your presidency; hope you’re attired suitably for the job!
Comment by Dandy Dan — May 19, 2009 #
4.
“Suits are for leisure pursuits as well as formal occasions.”
Well, there’s a manifesto which attracts, for a change.
The Cocktail Party – never politically astute, but always appropriately attired. Long live President Phil!
Comment by Paul Hardy — May 19, 2009 #
5.
Hi guys,
I thoroughly agree with Phil, and thanks Phil for putting it so succinctly. To be honest, I think the first battle is just to get men wearing jackets again casually. Let’s win that one and then campaign for the suit!
And Dan, yes it is a good rule of thumb that a suit is more casual the paler it is, the rougher the material is and the bigger its pattern.
Simon
Comment by Simon Crompton — May 20, 2009 #
Ah, the Cocktail Party–finally, a movement I can identify with!
Here is a picture of actor Ed Hermann in a mustard linen suit.
Consider also the seersucker suit for a summer casual suit. Seersucker is now available in many options besides the traditional navy & white, and the jacket and pants can be worn as separates.
Another good summer/casual suiting is poplin. For autumn and winter, what could be better than a corduroy suit?
If we lead by wearing casual suits, then perhaps we can convince our less-sartorial-minded brethren to at least put on a sports coat.
While I don’t want to sound like doing an advertisement, if Hsin Qin Tang is going to tailor a suit in Singapore, I’d highly recommend Anthony Tan at Mode et Creation, located in Far East Shopping Plaza, just beside Wheelock Place.
His workmanship, personalized service and quality are amazing. You can scour around Google with his shop name to see other comments on him.
Having said that, I was first going to recommend cotton for the suit. But since Hsin is going to Britain, cotton will not be a wise choice. I am not much of an expert when it comes to fabrics, so it’s better that he relates when and where he is going to wear your suit to his tailor, so that he’d be able to recommend suitable fabric for wearing at both the wedding and work in British isles.
Choosing a tailor is a personal and very important process. Tailoring bespoke suits is a lot more complicated for men (granted that we do not have much in-depth knowledge like the blog publisher ^_^). The tailor plays very important role here.
Hence, I’d strongly advise against going to tailors at Far East Plaza (located at the opposite of Galleria along the Orchard Road). Many of them offer “24 hours speedy tailoring service for suits” and will try to rip you off, especially if you are not a local.
I can also recommend a tailoring shop from Peninsula Excelsior hotel at City Hall area.
Happy tailoring and wish all the best for Hsin, and the blog publishers! ^_^
Samuel Faith