Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I spend?” It’s a popu...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
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Hi Tom, Template sounds great. Would you mind sharing it? Thanks, Shawn...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I’m going to a tailor or shirt...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
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Thanks, Simon. It is bespoke. I will ask them....
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and re...
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so ...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and re...
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British invisible Mending based in Thayer Street...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) –...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. And add a little narrati...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) –...
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I've worn my black suede Chukkas with a brown/taupe sole with office outfits to stay smartly dressed but tone it down in cold and wet weather and in period of the office when most wear more casual outfits. Just today I a...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occasionally. I reali...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
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I'd always look to Fox for flannel Shimura. I think they do an 11oz...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
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I read very little online about menswear, with the exception of Die Workwear. Jason Diamond's columns are good, as is anything Tony Sylvester writes, eg for Brycelands. My favourite Substack is The Ruffian, about politic...
How to buy a quality shirt
Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still haven’t found it. Maybe I...
How to buy a quality shirt
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Canclini 'denim'...
Building a capsule wardrobe: reader question
Dear Simon, You have written eloquently before on building a wardrobe aimed, I suspect, at the young city-based professional wanting to start to explore the world of good quality RTW or bespoke tailoring. My question is slightly different. Over the l...
Building a capsule wardrobe: reader question
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Yes, though a herringbone like my jacket is really quite subtle...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I’...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
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Thanks Sam, great update, and great knowing how timeless this advice has been...
How to buy good-value clothes
Dear Simon, I’ve been reading Permanent Style for many years now, but recently went scurrying back through older posts for advice. Having decided I should go straight to the source, I write to you today. In the last few months I’ve fo...
How to buy good-value clothes
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It is rather sad to see TM Lewin go from our city high streets as of late but apparently continuing online....
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The la...
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
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I think you might have misunderstood my tone Roy. I meant stupid purely as a term of hyperbole - that there is a huge amount of it. French suits do have a much larger amount of hand finishing. However, it is also largely...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for about 10 years...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
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Thanks for the tip...
How high should my trousers be? – Reader qu...
Hi Simon: Just wanted to say a big thank you for the wonderful work that you have been doing, it’s really pointed the rest us in the right direction. One thing that I have been rather confused on is how pants should fit for someone with my phys...
How high should my trousers be? – Reader qu...
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Yes, that is definitely a problem with high-rise trousers - see post here on why I tend to wear more of a mid-rise as a result. A mid-rise has less of this problem because the waist isn't so small....
How to wear socks with a suit: Reader question
Colours that go with tan Dear Simon, I’m getting stuck putting an outfit together, and what it comes down to is the socks. I’m wearing a mid-grey worsted wool suit with a sky-blue shirt and regimental tie of burgundy and navy st...
How to wear socks with a suit: Reader question
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Not sure I quite agree with Antonio, but if you're not going to think about them, then yes navy is probably the safest option!...
Reader question: Cashmere suits
Dear Simon, Hello and congratulations on your blog’s recent milestone! I have a question regarding cashmere suits. I am thinking of buying a suit that is 100% cashmere. Now I have come across many suits that are wool/cashmere blends, but...
Reader question: Cashmere suits
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That cashmere is a tiny proportion Chris, it will make no difference to the feel of the suit. Better to go for a nice merino. And it's not a good sign that they include polyester as well... no good suit cloth will...
Reader question: belts with suits
Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...
Reader question: belts with suits
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I don't like it myself - the only possible attraction is that it suggests a certain casualness or sprezzatura, but I don't think it normally succeeds there...
Reader question: pleats
D ear Mr. Crompton, I am hoping to follow up quickly on a blog post of yours concerning pleats. I’m having a bespoke suit made up from a Neapolitan tailor, and can’t decide on whether to go with pleats. Do you have any ins...
Reader question: pleats
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No, they shouldn't affect the fit through the back. They will affect the front, for example when you sit down, but not the back...
Double-breasted smoking jacket: Reader question
Simon, Firstly, please accept my apologies if this email address is not appropriate for you to receive and reply to individual questions. My apology offered, if you are still reading then I thank you and pose my question… I am a heavyset ma...
Double-breasted smoking jacket: Reader question
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I think your penultimate question is the important one Stephen...
Picking a tailor: Reader question
Dear Mr Crompton My name is Francisco Gomez, from Colombia. I recently stumbled upon your blog and have become an avid reader of it, since I have always loved all things related to clothing, accessories etc. I am currently in the process of having my...
Picking a tailor: Reader question
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Sounds good Will...
Storing handkerchiefs: Reader question
Hello, I’m a new reader of your blog, and I must say I’m enjoying it thoroughly. As I read it, I realised that I had a question I haven’t found a good answer to and it’s been bothering me no end: what is the best ...
Storing handkerchiefs: Reader question
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Shibumi have some really nice ones....
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
Normal.dotm 0 0 1 492 2805 Euromoney PLC 23 5 3444 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Dear Simon, I hope that you don’t mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I ne...
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
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Hi Jae. I'm afraid it's not an easy answer, because MTM varies hugely in terms of quality of make, and fit. If you can afford bespoke, I'd generally say go with that though; and don't bother with upgraded cloth...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering if you could do a p...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
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I don't really buy hangers, I just use ones supplied by tailors, but if you wanted some very good ones, look at Nakata, supplied by Arterton. I don't really buy especially breathable suit covers either, I have enough fro...
Reader question: Side straps and chinos
Normal.dotm 0 0 1 424 2417 Euromoney PLC 20 4 2968 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Incotex trousers Dear Simon, I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you said in a post a while ago that...
Reader question: Side straps and chinos
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Thanks Simon....
What gloves to wear: Reader question
Dear Simon, I am seeking advice about gloves. Firstly what colour pairings do gloves go with? Is it possible to be adventurous or should one stick to brown and black? Also where could I find a very tight pair of leather gloves? Fingerless gloves for ...
What gloves to wear: Reader question
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It's a good question Johann. I don't actually know, I've never looked into that. I'd imagine it wouldn't be easy though, and would require much of making the glove from scratch - you'd certainly want to take it to a glov...
How to dress casually: Reader question
Dear Simon, Many thanks for the invaluable resource of your blog when it comes to style. I started reading a month or so ago and am taking pleasure in devouring the wealth of information there is on classic sartorial menswear. However, the occasions ...
How to dress casually: Reader question
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In my experience Caruso does very good RTW jackets with a less trendy cut....
