*UPDATE: The offer has now launched, and the jackets are available to order in the Connolly shop, or by phone, until December 10th.
Sizes and measurements of the jacket are included at the bottom of this post. Sleeve lengths can be altered.
If you would like to place an order, or ask any questions, please contact Connolly on +44 20 7952 6708*
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I have been trying to get Seraphin, the superlative French maker of leather and suede jackets, to London for some time.
I first met them in 2013 and have been a customer ever since, visiting the workshop to cover it in 2016.
Unfortunately Seraphin have precious little retail - and none in the UK. So it was frustrating telling readers about a maker they couldn’t find anywhere.
At one point Seraphin were even going to do the pop-up shop. But they’re a manufacturer, not a retailer, and didn’t have the staff to make it workable.
Fortunately a few months ago, we came up with a solution.
Rather than come themselves, Seraphin is doing a collaboration with myself and Connolly, the London shop for whom Seraphin makes several pieces every year.
Connolly will be offering a made-to-order programme for Seraphin jackets, running for two months from today.
The project will be based around my favourite Seraphin jacket: a zip-up blouson in heavy, water-resistant suede (above - also featured in the Bennett Winch post here).
I commissioned this piece from Henri at Seraphin a couple of years ago, when I visited him in Paris. It was intended to be - and thankfully has become - a particularly versatile casual jacket. Brown suede (the most versatile colour), zip-up to the neck (more casual than a button style), with fine ribbing and simple slanted pockets.
And nice Seraphin touches, like the seams on the ribbing being covered by strips of the same suede as the body. All meticulously executed handwork.
I particularly like the thick suede because it gives the jacket a luxurious feel and makes it robust. But it’s only lined with silk (not fur or wool), which makes it versatile enough to be worn three seasons of the year.
The water-resistant treatment is also, deliberately, one that doesn’t affect the handle or feel of the leather.
The Connolly offering is based off that design, with different options for the materials.
The options are:
- Goatskin suede in four colours (mine, £2,450)
- Cashmere jersey, reversible to waterproof nylon, in three colours (2,350)
- Deerskin leather in three colours (£3,220)
- Beaver fur lining for the suede or the deerskin, making them £4,950 and £5,120 respectively.
The reversible cashmere style is obviously very useful, but having it in jersey makes it especially so - stretchy, almost like sportswear.
Deerskin is an under appreciated leather generally, I think because its richness comes out over time, more like horsehide and less like the more obviously attractive suede or lambskin. But it is a level more expensive.
And the beaver lining turns the jacket into a definite winter piece, and the most luxurious option.
There will be samples of all these jackets in the Connolly shop, so you can see and feel them first hand. And a size run of the suede jacket, to check sizing.
This is not a made-to-measure offering, but small changes will be possible, most obviously shortening or lengthening the sleeves.
Orders will be delivered by Seraphin in 5-6 weeks. The offer ends on December 10th.
Finally, we will be holding a small launch event for the collaboration next Thursday, November 7th, in the Connolly store on Clifford Street in London.
Please RSVP if you would like to come along, see the jackets and hear why I think they’re so special. The event will start at 6pm and run until 8pm.
I will also be available the next day by appointment, if anyone would like to get my advice on the options.
Other clothes pictured:
- A charcoal cashmere roll neck from Drake’s
- Pale olive basketweave chinos from Stoffa
- White Common Projects Achilles sneakers
Photography: Connolly
Measurements:
Size 44
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam) : 63,5 cm
Chest : 54,5
Back length : 65 cm
Size 46
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 64 cm
Chest : 56,5 cm
Back length : 65,5 cm
Size 48
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 64,5 cm
Chest : 58,5 cm
Back length : 66 cm
Size 50
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 65 cm
Chest : 60,5 cm
Back length : 66,5 cm
Size 52
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 65,5 cm
Chest : 62,5 cm
Back length : 67 cm
Size 54
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 66 cm
Chest : 64,5 cm
Back length : 67,5 cm
Size 56
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam) : 66,5 cm
Chest : 66,5 cm
Back length : 68 cm
Size 58
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 67 cm
Chest : 68,5 cm
Back length : 68,5 cm
Size 60
Sleeve length (from sleeve head at seam): 67,5 cm
Chest : 70,5 cm
Back length : 69 cm
Great project! Can this be order online/via e-mail or phone for those not in the UK?
Yes. Obviously easier to understand sizing in person, which is why we’re bringing the samples, but ordering via phone through Connolly is fine
Thank you. Any chance you could post the measurements?
I’ll ask Connolly
Hi Simon, just following up on this. Were you able to find out the measurements? Or is it best to reach out to Conolly directly? Thank you.
Go to Connolly directly. We had such a lovely evening tonight, myself and Isabel chatting about Seraphin. But yes, Connolly have all the measurements and fabric details. Give them a ring
And also, is the stated price inclusive of VAT? Thanks.
Yes
Simon,both Cromford Leather(the Delon model) and Private White make a suede blouson that are much less expensive, particularly the Private White. Is the quality difference that significant in favor of Seraphin to justify the much higher price? The Cromford product, as I understand it, is basically all handmade from extremely high quality leathers. The quality of the Private White suede jacket must be outstanding as well. As an owner of the PW bomber in navy I can attest to quality of the workmanship as can you obviously. By the way, the idea of adding a beaver lining would be fantastic for a true winter coat, with deerskin being a great choice.
Yes, essentially. Although both of those make excellent jackets, this is a step above. It’s a small difference of course, as most things are at the top of the quality ladder, but this is on a par with Hermes, Loro Piana and similar, and should be compared as such – and of course it’s cheaper than both of those by virtue of being a different type of company.
Thanks. Where does Sartoria Melina fit on the quality spectrum?
Good point. Very high too, but they work with a much smaller range of leathers – mostly the nubuck, then some suede and exotics. Also the main advantage with them (for me) is the fact it’s made to measure, and the hand sewing, which none of these others have.
Hi Simon
Which colour options will be offered for suede and deerskin?
Good point.
The suede is a dark brown (pictured), light brown, grey and black.
The deerskin is four shades of brown, with one very dark (almost black) and the others a light, mid and dark.
The cashmere is a tan, grey and navy.
The beaver is in grey, black, light grey and brown.
Simon
Great looking bomber.
Please, though, drop the sneaker/trainer look.
Not sure if it’s an age thing, or what, but it screams “here I am trying to look cool”. Not a good look I’m afraid.
If I where wearing the rest of the outfit, I would be in chestnut/conker leather ankle boots. Not sneakers.
I imagine you will tell me I am entitled to my opinion but you don’t agree with it, which is fine, but please at least accept there are times when you could try harder, given so many of your readers see you as some kind of style guru. And what colour socks are you wearing? They look a bit off as well.
Thanks.
BTW I imagine VSF will now come on and tell me not to challenge you…..
You can challenge me as much as you like Adam. But it would be helpful if you said something more substantial than ‘trying to look cool’ and ‘not a good look’. If you don’t have anything like that to say, that’s fine, but without it this is a very subjective opinion that isn’t that relevant to everyone else.
Simon
I thought I had made my points fairly clearly, but I will try again;
1. I really like the blouson
2. I think sneakers in middle aged men look wrong; I wouldn’t wear them and don’t know anybody who would.
3. I would choose conker coloured leather boots for my feet with this outfit.
We all have our own taste, and this site is surely about honest exchanges, rather than you arbitrating over what constitutes a good look or not?
And my opinion may be relevant to others, despite you announcing that it isn’t. Even VSF agrees with me on this one.
You are about 10 years into your sartorial discovery. I’ve been on my journey since 1978 when I was able to stop wearing wing collars and tail coats to school.
Kind regards
Adam
Adam, I think you seem to miss the point again. I’ll try to put it slightly better.
The site is entirely about honest exchanges and different opinions. You’ll see plenty more on here, from other people.
The difference is the reasoning. It is helpful, if you can, to explain and elaborate on your views slightly. Readers will find this more interesting – and you’ll find many of them do that.
There are many reasons for disliking the sneakers, including:
– They are too casual for other parts of the outfit (eg it may be ok with a blouson, but not with a jacket)
– The colour of them doesn’t work well with colours elsewhere (eg a bright blue or green might have not worked here, given how subtle everything else is)
– The style of the trainer doesn’t work, perhaps because it is not sleek and simple like the other things in the outfit
– They merely look wrong on someone my age. You half made this point, but it is a very valid one.
– Social and cultural associations merely mean that you personally dislike them.
Finally, just be polite. It costs nothing and it’s perfectly possible to make the same points without saying I think I’m a style guru, or that other people are going to attack you. Again, I think you’ll find the other commenters are more polite in this regard.
If you need a rule of thumb, consider how you would talk to someone if you met them in person. I doubt you would say to me ‘You’re screaming ‘here I am trying to look cool”
Thanks
I’m not VSF (not sure who he/ she is?) but this looks fine to me. I speak as someone who doesn’t wear trainers other than for sport. The only nits I’d pick is that the weather is probably on the cusp for wearing white trainers and that they look too box fresh…if Simon wears them for a few more weeks the weather will see to that…
So unfortunate Adam returns complete with the standard snarky, passive aggressive, and overall boorish comments. Well in this case Adam we do agree on our mutual dislike of the trainer look. The reason I don’t like trainers on grown men is that I think they are fundamentally a teenage look that makes adults look really silly. I also agree with you that a pair of ankle boots, Chelsea or Chukka, would be a vastly superior choice over the teenage sneakers. Now Simon of course will disagree with me on this and that’s fine, but I believe he’ll consider my position on the matter, even if he rejects it.
Well guessed.
Trainer-clad Wimbledon participants must look silly, then.
True, a point can be made that that’s a different situation. But then the Common Projects pair Simon is wearing in the photo is a far cry from anything you would ever use for high levels of activity. It’s designed to be more pedestrian.
Part of developing a personal (dare I say permanent) style is flirting with and eventually transcending the associations that clothes possess, beyond merely understanding, acknowledging, and complying with them.
I find this discussion quite interesting. Whilst I concede that I wouldn’t have worn trainers/ sneakers call-them-what-you-will, I appreciate Simon’s decision to dress down the outfit with them. That’s his steez it may not be yours: Simon is a young man whilst I’m a middle aged 50 something. May be there is also some cognitive dissonance in considering what is essentially a casual outfit whilst wearing a £2K plus leather jacket but again I appreciate his decision and why he has made it. I guess even as clothes conscious people we all have different priorities- I place much less emphasis on my casual clothes than I do the more formal. Perhaps I should address this…
I have to say, the amount of fuss created on this site, when Simon wears a pair of sleek and simple ‘trainers’ (even though they are not actual sports trainers) makes me chuckle. It is definitely an age thing. Some readers are in their 50’s/60’s plus. I wasn’t born when some of the reader’s sartorial journeys began, neither was Simon. I am a younger reader, who regularly visits PS and I really like the outfit above. It is definitely something I would wear and I have worn very similar outfits a number of times (same Common Projects but my jacket is a PWVC moleskin bomber). It doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate fine tailoring, as I wouldn’t be on here, otherwise. This is site is called Permanet Style, not Permanent Suit! Being stylish is more than being able to wear a bespoke suit. Being stylish, to me, also includes being able to dress down and still look good! I have seen that lots can look great in good tailoring but when they dress down, they can’t quite do it. Being stylish means being able to do both, in my humble opinion. What we have to understand is, the age of the readers of this website vary from their 20’s, well in to their 60’s and maybe some are 70 plus! Simon obviously appeals to both but he won’t appeal to every age group, 100% of the time and he is staying true to himself.
Opinions are opinions but my goodness, don’t slate a man who can actually carry off smart ‘trainers’. I have seen 50 year olds dress similar to the photo above and still look great! I think, being able to wear smarter trainers well, honestly depends on your body type and overall styling of an outfit. Simon suits the style of Common Projects. It’s not like he is trying to style a suit with a pair of New a Balance (which I have seen on social media and I’m not a fan of that).
We have to accept that sleek, minimalist trainers, are almost the modern loafer for the younger generation. This site is about variety and I think some people really try too hard to challenge Simon on things like trainers, tattoos etc when he is a lot younger than a lot of the readers who are trying to have a go. Opinions will always be there but if a smarter ‘trainer’ really offends some readers that much, then maybe you need to look elsewhere for style advice, instead of trying to slate someone who obviously knows their stuff and feels comfortable in their own skin.
By the way, I typed this lonnngggg comment whilst wearing a pair Crockett and Jones Boston loafers. Hopefully that won’t offend anyone! 😉
Could you do a short follow-up after November 7 where you post picture of the different colours and options? That would help with mulling over the options. Thanks for considering.
Sure, OK
Any plans to try Alfredo Rifugio?
Yes actually, post coming later in the year
That will be an interesting post as I’m very interested in this maker. He doesn’t seem to get much attention even though, best I can tell, the quality and design of his product is superb, among the best. Is that right?
Certainly very good, yes. They haven’t had much attention because they haven’t been around for that long (they used to just be a maker for other brands)
Very much looking forward to your review.
Looks great. Can I ask about internal pockets. Are they included as standard or otherwise available as an extra?
Yes, as standard there are two in-breast pockets, left and right, zipped
Simon,
I have the ‘Private White’ de-luxe suede bomber that I bought at £995.
The styling and quality are excellent. It’s also made in the U.K. which is important to me because I like to support my fellow countrymen.
I just don’t see what justifies the premium with this project ?
Maybe you could elaborate ?
Regards,
Jason
Hi Jason,
Well, the points above as regards quality, as mentioned in regards to Private White.
If you want to buy English, then of course that precludes Seraphin.
how does Seraphin compare against Chapal?
Both great quality, but Chapal is very different. It uses largely sheep leather, which is great and tough and has a vintage look, but isn’t the same feeling of luxury. Same goes for their styles, which are all much more vintage. Seraphin is very modern and refined
Hi Simon
Could the beaver lining be potentially detachable? This would add to the versatility of such a piece.
Cheers
M
Not within this offering no, sorry.
Thanks. No worries! Would you say that deerskin leather with this model is versatile enough and could also be worn with tailored trousers (e.g. flannel)? Or would you recommend going Chapal if one were to think that deerskin would work better with a more “rugged” / casual look?
No, deerskin in this model could definitely be worn with things like flannels. Maybe a casual shirt like a denim or an oxford button down
From the pics the zip looks too light/bright.
I’m not sure you’d think that in person Gonzague. It’s a pretty standard steel.
Easily and by far THE most stylish outfit that I have seen you wear since following this fantastic blog of yours Simon.
I for one would be very interested in reading seeing and learning more about casual menswear.
Love, love, love Common Projects and Lanvin – the ones with the patent toe specifically and only in Black or Navy they’re both incredibly stylish, very comfortable and great when wondering about town. There’s a very big difference between those types of sneakers and a pair of say Adidas or Nike
I’m 70 and, after a working lifetime of suits and ties I happily wear, almost exclusively, jeans (some distressed), sneakers (ranging from dog-walking reeboks to $600 To Boot ‘Formal’ ones).
I live in this along with tailored track pants, t-shirts and hoodies. I dress for myself and I couldn’t care less what anyone thinks, especially the style-restricted posters here. I can happily wear jeans and upmarket sneakers to lunch at the RAC club and most anywhere else.
I discovered athleisure and have stuck with it. I have never received a negative comment or disparaging look. Formal for me is a custom cashmere jacket, long sleeve Rake polo and plain jeans, light or dark and dark suede sneakers.
I think Simon looks superb from head to toe in this outfit, the sneakers adding a touch of light, bright and casual. He’s not trying to look anything – why would he with his wardrobe.
So, come on, tell me I should be ashamed, I’m trying to look 50 years younger, silly at my age. Frankly I’m not interested in your narrow focus.
For goodness sake lighten up – the tie and possibly even the dress shirt will go the way of spats and frock coats, given time.
I live in Australia. It’s hot. I want to be comfortable but clean and tailored as much as possible.
Is this an English thing?
Recent sartorial trends show clearly the move is to casual clothing – and it’s happening quickly. Here it can reach 40c plus and I don’t want to be suffocating in ties and so on.
Incidentally, it’s a delight to discover the endless number of combinations you can uncover with casual clothing.
Simon’s suede coat is the best I’ve ever seen and his sneakers blend beautifully.
Simon – is the fur version fully lined with fur (front and back)? What about sleeves?
Front and back yes, but not sleeves I don’t think. Generally you wouldn’t want that – it would be too hot
Would love to have seen a linen option for this bomber. I suspect they don’t work with linen?
Very rarely
This project looks fantastic. Incidentally, what size do you take in the jacket and did you make any alterations to the sleeve length? How does it fit?
Good point. I took a 50 and lengthened the sleeves slightly. It’s pretty true to size
Thanks for the reply Simon. Connolly sent me sleeve measurements of 66.5 cm for the size 40 suede, which are longer than the sleeves on most of my casual jackets. Is there any reason you decided to lengthen the sleeves even further?
No Arthur, that’s the standard Seraphin length. But of course it’s something you can change with the made to order
I’ve been thinking about the price of this as compared to other quality options (e.g. the Valstarino which is 30% of the cost), and what are the differences of Seraphin’s product.
Putting aside the style, I assume the leather for Seraphin is of superior quality and is water resistant. What else makes this a superior offering?
Everything you’d ever consider in the quality of a jacket C: outer material, lining, trimmings, hardware, precision of work, extra pieces of work, design time.
Nice outfit Simon.
What do you think about wearing socks with sneakers?Personally I think they look better sockless.After all sneakers are more of a casual summer look like espadrilles and I would always wear them without socks.
Yes but espadrilles are purely a summer shoe?
Wearing any shoe with ankles showing only looks right when the weather suits it. Otherwise it’s like wearing ankle boots on the beach.
So yes, always socks with sneakers unless it’s hot.
I wouldnt be wearing fine, over the calf hose though. Just regular short cotton socks
Simon, I apologise for asking for yet more comparisons between makers, however I am very interested to know how some of the respected Japanese leather jacket makers (The Real McCoy’s, Flat Head, Freewheelers, Rainbow Country) stack up to some of your favoured European makers. I believe that you have a jacket from The Real McCoy’s, how would this compare to Chapal, Seraphin, Melina and Cromford, in terms of construction, quality of materials, fit etc.?
No worries, but once you get into workwear jackets like that you’re really not comparing the same things any more. The brands I’ve mentioned before – Valstar, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Loro Piana, Hermes, Seraphin, Melina, Rifugio – are all aiming for the same kind of aesthetic and therefore type of raw material and of finish.
The Real McCoy’s or The Flat Head are not aiming for that at all. First they might want cheaper leather because they don’t want a fine look (eg rough-out suede), and second they might even want rougher finishing because it is more in-keeping with the style, or more authentic.
Do you know how excluding VAT works for bespoke clothing in London or the EU for visiting United States buyers? Or something like this, that is made to order? Is there VAT exclusion?
Yes, normally if you’re visiting from outside the EU and you buy something in the EU, you pay VAT but can claim it back at the airport, with information supplied by the seller.
The companies that process the claim do charge something though, so you don’t get it all back.
And let’s say a London tailor comes to the US for trunk show. For example W&S is charging £ 535 plus duties for foreign bespoke. Should there be VAT deducted? On your article trousers were ~£440 so I don’t see why they should include VAT.
That’s more complicated. It depends where the sale is made. Is it’s invoiced from the UK, you shouldn’t pay VAT, but you should pay duties when it comes into the US
Does Séraphin make these jackets bespoke?
They can do more extensive alterations (not really bespoke) if you go to the factory in Paris. But appointment only. They’re a maker primarily, not a brand, so not set up for retail. It’s one reason we did this through Connolly
If we made a jacket with them, could we opt for brass hardware without the circle? And for the pockets, can we make them jetted instead of zip?
If you are a brand and order with them, some changes might be possible. But not as a consumer, no.
Hi Simon
I was hoping to come to the event organised with Connolly last week but unfortunately could not make it due to work commitments… Too bad, would have been nice to chat.
I placed an order and opted for the navy suede version with silk lining. Think it will be a lovely versatile piece!
Just one question: how rain resistant the jacket really is? I guess one still would not wear it if it is pouring but ok if just a light rain? What has been your experience in these circumstances thus far and is it worth still using a spray to proof it further?
Many thanks!
M
Hey
Sorry to miss you. It was a lovely night.
Yes exactly, wear without concern in light rain. I wouldn’t treat it again though.
And whenever it does get rained on, still bear in mind our lessons on suede care in the Trunk/Valstar video. Dry naturally then brush that nap up.
I think this Seraphin jacket fits you proportionally much better than the Stoffa due to the lack of bellowing pockets, which shortens the body and makes the stomach puffy. But why does the Stoffa jacket look still ok on the shorter guys? The pockets are still a little difficult aesthetically, being so big.
Sorry to repeat but I lost this question in the threads: I have an olive technical jacket and natural-colored G9 Baracuta jacket. What should be the model of my 3rd jacket? I’m afraid the suede Valstar would look too much like my Harrington. Thank you
On the Stoffa, I think it’s largely about proportions of the cut – a little longer or shorter makes a big difference.
On your jacket, I suggested a brown suede bomber, with a lower collar like a classic bomber
Wearing my jacket today (brown suede with beaver fur). It’s a beautiful piece and very warm – in fact I am now hoping the weather turns colder. Expensive for sure, but quite a bit less than Loro Piana (the only comparable source that I’ve found for fur-lined suede). The way the fur is fitted around the inside pockets is beautiful.
(Although slightly disappointing that the cuffs did not have the suede strip as suggested)
Really? Thanks I’ll find out why that was
I picked mine up last week (the second batch of the dark brown suede which is subtly different to the original). It’s a beautiful object and promises to be very useful – and I’m sure will be treated less preciously once it’s got a bit of wear and a few marks on it. Thank you for coming up with such a well proportioned and simple design (although I still think the Seraphin circular zip tags are a little bit fussy – sorry)
I’m so pleased Jonathan, and thanks for the view on the zip pulls, always helpful to pass along
Simon, how would you compare this style of bomber jacket to a typical A1 – Valstarino? In terms of style and versatility. Thanks!
I’d say it was more casual, because of the zipper (rather than buttons) and overall cinched, bomber shape.
So great with jeans and more causal things – but it’s stretching it’s use to wear it with flannels, as on me. A Valstarino is more suited to that style, but could look a little out of place with chunkier trainers, more streetwear etc.
Hello Simon
Will there be another similar joint undertaking with Seraphin be taking place this year? I sadly missed out on the MTO jackets with Connolly last year but still really looking forward to finally acquiring a Seraphin jacket.
Also, is it possible to order them directly from Seraphin themselves? They do publish their collection for each season, so I wondered.
Thanks in advance!
Hopefully, yes. We’re still trying to confirm how it will work with Connolly though.
And no, I’m afraid you can’t order from them directly. The collection is aimed at their retailers, and customers who might buy from those retailers
Hi Simon,
Do you update on this cowork you have been doing with? When would you expect the new project to come?
Thanks!
I’m afraid not, no. We didn’t have time to re-run the project this year. Hopefully next year though
OK, thank you for letting us know, Simon.
Merry Christmas for you and you family
Any chance this will be available again?
Hopefully this coming Winter, yes Brendan
Hey Simon – do you know of Seraphin’s current distributors? Lists I found online are quite old and not sure if those places still carry them (e.g. – Bergdorf) I’m based in NYC fwiw. Would be great if you get these again this winter through Connolly as well.
I don’t I’m afraid Brendan, but it has always been very small – most of it is for Hermes. But yes, hopefully we can do these again… Worth emailing the support team to add your name to the waiting list if you want, then we can get an idea of numbers