While at Stefano Bemer I had a fitting on what is easily my longest-running order for a pair of shoes. The process started back in January 2012. A combination of company upheaval and very infrequent travel to Florence has meant that only now, two years later, am I seeing them in the flesh.
They are beautiful shoes. Made in the simple shape and style that Bemer was renowned for, with a gently elongated toe, the mid-brown will have a thin welt and some burnishing and polish to vary the colour. The latter two points are not the normal style for Bemer, but I wanted a finish that was a little closer to Northampton.
Most importantly for bespoke, the fit was excellent. There is a peculiarly pleasurable feeling of feeling your instep hugged all the way around the foot that you only get with good bespoke. It is similar in many ways to the sensation of having a collar fit all round the neck on a first bespoke suit. I still remember that feeling.
On my last below, you can see where Masako has marked out some small changes. A little needs to be added to the top of the instep, as it is lacing up completely at the moment. And a little is needed on the outside of both feet, around my little toe. Both of these will be achieved with the addition of a small layer of leather on the last. The shoes will then be relasted over the top.
As ever, click on the images to enlarge. Note the beautiful Bemer wooden shoe boxes in the background. Each pair of shoes comes in such a box, with a shoe shape in the same leather stuck to the outside.
Photos: Luke Carby
Such a thin sole it looks hardly present, as if the shoes will wear through in a matter of weeks! nonetheless attractive shoes.
There is no sole at all…
Most bespoke fittings take place with a lasted upper and a rough heel hammered on, but no sole. This is so you don’t have to stitch it on by hand – which takes a long time – only to take it off again after the fitting.
SIlly me
Also Simon I was wondering what I should do if I can afford more than £800 Graham Browne but cant quite go to the £3000 top Savile Row tailors?
There must be an immediate alternative available in London for between those price points?
Thanks
There are a few that fall in between, but they are in my experience all around the same quality as GB.
The next step up would be Kent Haste & Lachter for me, who make a Savile Row suit starting at £2650. Basic cloth at that price, but great cut and finishing
They look beautiful. As with your tailoring, do you now only buy bespoke footwear ?
Yes, pretty much. But I wouldn’t put forward much of a case for the value of bespoke shoes – bespoke tailoring delivers far more by comparison, both in terms of style and fit. In my case it’s more that I have far too many shoes already (you need fewer good shoes than suits/jackets) and therefore if I’m going to buy anything it’s only going to be bespoke. One bespoke a year where I might have bought three RTW, perhaps.
Makes sense to me. I’m slowly working my way up the quality shoe ladder. I’ve just decided on my first pair of Crockett and Jones. They will be be heaven compared to what I’m used to.
Not sure if either bespoke suits or shoes can be justified economically. They are both occasional indulgences, for me at least. I must say that I get just as much pleasure from my bespoke shoes (Jason Amesbury) as from my bespoke suits (Timothy Everest, John Pearse). It is the small things that I appreciate as much as the fit – a lovely beveled waist on the sole, the quality of the leather used and, of course, that personal pleasure from knowing that you are wearing something unique and special – even if nobody else notices.
Do you know how the sizing of Stefano Bemer RTW compares to EG sizing? Thanks
No, sorry. If you’re in London you can pop in and see them at New & Lingwood
Wouldn’t the lacing close even more if they added on the instep?
You’re right, I misspoke. Some had to be taken away
I thought so. I was wondering how that would work since the pattern will be even bigger if something was added onto the instep.
Also, I would just like to ask, what to do you think about bespoke shoes being made for people who have very very wide feet? For example, a person roughly around size 46, with a ball girth around 30+cm. Have you ever seen one?
No, I haven’t