Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Match in comments:
Partly, yes, though it's more about the style - it's less comfortable than a drape cut, but not than a Sexton or Chittleborough, yet I'm happy to have the latter two for the style...
Reader profile: Patrick
Patrick Dawson is a retired news correspondent, now living in London. During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC correspondent on the ground during 9/11. ...
Reader profile: Patrick
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Pat Dawson has -always- looked great. He and I competed in local news in NYC back in the late 80s, and even then he was the best-dressed man I knew. I'm not at all surprised it has continued....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
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Yes I think so, on both counts...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
Match in comments:
A pale beige or cream, perhaps a pale olive...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The guide to jacket pockets
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Yes it should do...
The (55) bespoke tailors I have known
This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a fu...
The (55) bespoke tailors I have known
Match in comments:
Yes, though Pirozzi is pretty much the top for what you'll get from Naples. Style differences are harder to go into without more space, but if there are specific questions I can try...
The cream shirt
There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...
The cream shirt
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Love a cream shirt, moreso an off-white/ivory shirt with just a hint of yellowing, I've heard the terms used interchangeably. Great for when I'm not sure if I want a white or blue shirt. People say cream shirts work bett...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
Match in comments:
Thanks Lukasz, and yes good points...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape cut that A&...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
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Thanks so much for the very valuable advice, Simon!...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
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Yes, we will. Worth emailing the support team to register your interest though. Thanks...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
Match in comments:
It would be nice to see a review on Steed Bespoke as I may be visiting Matthew or Edwin in September for a possible first bespoke, preferably separates rather than a suit, whatever is more versatile....
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
A couple of readers e-mailed yesterday to ask about the jacket I was wearing in the images of visiting Simonnot-Godard. It is the jacket I had made by Steven Hitchcock back in 2012 - a sky-blue tweed from Holland & Sherry's Harris Tweed bun...
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
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Yes, a muted colour in a brown or green would be nice...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket post.) What are the trouser colou...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
Match in comments:
I think that would probably look a little odd to be honest, Oscar. Perhaps not the kind of thing most people would notice, but it might lack something in elegance...
Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his ...
I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is usually cut through the ...
Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his ...
Match in comments:
Thanks Alex. I think that's good guidance, just keep in mind that with some tailors, some of the proportion points cannot and perhaps should not be changed. Eg asking a Neapolitan to have closed fronts...
Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...
My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...
Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...
Match in comments:
A tiny bit of room with some side straps......
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I’...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
Match in comments:
Thanks Sam, great update, and great knowing how timeless this advice has been...
The style of cycling
Cycling has to be the most stylish sport in the world. It has such an elegant, innate rhythm, plus a deep design heritage, a unique culture, and some of the most beautiful settings in the world. I sat down recently with three of the leading lights at...
The style of cycling
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Probably not worth it Andrew, unfortunately....
The BTBA summer party
Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shep...
The BTBA summer party
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No, I'm afraid not. It looks very similar to my W Bill linen though: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/07/spanish-tailors.html...
Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
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Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
Match in comments:
Thank you...
And so is Steven Hitchcock…
Just a reminder to those in the US that were interested in seeing Steven Hitchcock, following my recent series of pieces with this ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter here. He will be in New York from this Sunday to Wednesday (20th to 23rd) with s...
And so is Steven Hitchcock…
Just a reminder to those in the US that were interested in seeing Steven Hitchcock, following my recent series of pieces with this ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter here. He will be in New York from this Sunday to Wednesday ...
Steven Hitchcock – the final jacket
I picked up my final jacket and trousers from Steven Hitchcock last week. The result is a beautiful tweed jacket – light and comfortable but still with definite shape – and a wonderfully fitting pair of moleskins. Steven describes...
Steven Hitchcock – the final jacket
Match in comments:
Very few tailors do the back seam by hand, and I don't think Steven does on all his jackets either, but would have to check as it's been a while since this post....
Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting
This is the basted fitting on a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers from Steven Hitchcock, ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter and now very successful in his own right. It is a pocket baste, in that the front edges are unfinished as well as the col...
Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting
Match in comments:
Hi Paul, It is indeed, but the number of changes here is only slightly more than I've had at other tailors for my first piece. I've actually just had the second fitting, and neither the trouser width nor the jacket lengt...
Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed
The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated, because cutting is a solo cr...
Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed
The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
Match in comments:
I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...
