Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition. The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you&rsq...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
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Long time client here with 50+ commissions. The cut is their own version of the 30’s era drape. Well defined shoulders, no exaggerated details, very high quality finishing. Nothing that draws attention to the suit. Mod...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
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Thank you Simon. Have a great day! -Tony...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. Wh...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
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Excellent, many thanks Peter. Wellies starting the week after that late summer I guess :)...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
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Some observations: I like how you told them to place a buttonhole at the centre for the watch chain. I came up with another neat solution that avoids having to sew a buttonhole, and instead hide on in a central seam, whi...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I have seen and tried them Jim, but don't own any. They are very big in the body compared to most regular shirts and I found that too much personally...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
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Aleks is correct. Plain grey trousers aren't part of the traditional morning coat outfit. If you wore plain grey trousers with a morning coat to a wedding then people who care about classic menswear would notice this, an...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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Hi Matej, the morning dress looks very nice. I am from Vienna and have been struggling to find an affordable yet non-standard morning dress myself. Any chance I might connect with your tailor? I would not mind the travel...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that fol...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
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Stefan, I started my Apprenticeship as a jacket maker with A&S when I was 15, I’m now 75and still do the occasional jkt, back in the 60s you probably would have to have had a couple of recommendations, I remember w...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
Just before Christmas, I organised a Permanent Style Christmas dinner, to thank a few people that had helped and supported PS in recent years. We were hosted by Geordie D’Anyers Willis of Berry Bros & Rudd, which was kind of Geordie, ...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
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Yes I think that could be nice. I'd try a regular black shirt or knit first, before a western, in case that's too much next to the smarter worsted, but it could be good still...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
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Hi Oscar, Personally no, I wouldn't wear this to a non-formal event, though it does depend how non-formal! If I was going to go tieless, I would probably go with a tonal crewneck sweater underneath and perhaps a silk sca...
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben
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Love the semi-casual....
Brioni bespoke tailoring
A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
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I see. To be honest I'm not sure size is a great indicator of that either - you only have to look at Michael Browne, one of the smallest but with a really strong reputation. Equally Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, whom I really ...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of e...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
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Sure Peter, good point, I should do that. Plan to do one on coats first though... I think a cord suit could certainly belong in that first five jackets or casual suits, yes....
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We di...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
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Hey there, One inch is a fairly big change, it could affect the way the collar is sitting. However, if your neck has changed that much, presumably your body has changed as well? That will make a much bigger difference. E...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Oh no, sorry, I mean a washing machine, no need even for a delicate setting. Hand washing is really only needed for knitwear and materials like silks...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
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Nice, I hadn't heard that. Thanks Daniel...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
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The nicest is cream, grey always works, and green can be good too. Even black. I wouldn't wear a linen jacket in winter myself...
The T-shirt under tailoring
I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
The T-shirt under tailoring
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Yes, I thought you'd be aware of that. Ethan and Ethan do of course look great in theirs - just bear in mind they are often not aiming for the most subtle of looks, the slightly more unusual, and that there will still be...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
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I don't think it has changed much, John, but I would give them a call and ask (before an appointment), they're very nice and will tell you promptly. I agree though that tailors put people off by not being more transparen...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
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No, I don't think it is, personally...
Outfits I got wrong
Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Outfits I got wrong
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yes I would Jack...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
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Chris, I’m not sure if that particular distinction came in with C19 or before, but full bespoke or what would now be called Bespoke 1849....
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
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Hi Lindsay, he is based out of the Oxo Tower Barge House St, visited him over the summer and he is one of the cheeriest people I have ever met. Also the suit he cut for me is stunning which just adds to the whole experie...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
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It should be here at the beginning of next month. As always, the best way to get access is to email the support team and be on the waiting list...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
*Note: Joshua and Kimberley are now running their own, separate operations. Kimberly, at 'Lawton', can be found here* Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in W...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
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Thank you. However, you don't know anything about the privilege or not that these two have had. You are making a sweeping assumption based on their race. As noted above in the comments, ironically these two have had far ...
