I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes.
But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the intervening months have seen lots of favourite brands launch polos, rayon and the like. And the weather has been so hot in the UK that I’ve been searching for things like lightweight linen trousers and floaty shirts.
So here’s a summer breakdown of my favourite things I’ve tried during those two warm months.
SKr2560 (£205)
Rubato have expanded their summer range significantly, with knitted T-shirts (long and short sleeve) and knitted polo shirts. All are made with cotton/silk mix that's very dry to the touch (almost, but not quite scratchy) and use this to make pieces that have a solid handle, but are cool by virtue of being open weave.
The polo shirts are my favourite, in particular the stripes, but I find the short-sleeve T-shirts (such as the cream above) the most interesting. They're cut with a high neck and a body that hangs straight, rather than having any ribbing at the bottom (in contrast to those from The Anthology, for instance). This makes for a rather different look, quite blocky and modern.
I took the black (medium) and will be trying in with both casual and smart trousers. The long-sleeve is more like a sweater, with ribbing on the hem. Still light and dry though.
£69
This latest launch from Tony is a spin on a menswear standard, as we should probably expect by now, with the obvious thing here being the traditional ribbons that tie up the calf. I have to say I’m a little unsure about the style, but having tried them myself the ribbon does function very well, in that it keeps the heel firmly in the shoe, while allowing you to have a roomy fit - often I have to compromise on one or the other.
I also love the black-on-black colour option, which I’ve never seen before, as it makes them less obviously a beach shoe. They’re a basic make, again in common with what Tony does elsewhere, but this is clearly reflected in the price.
€145
I’ve never been that much of a fan of knitted cotton polo shirts, because the ones I’ve tried historically (usually from Smedley) have been oddly warm on the skin and crumpled easily. That was why our PS ones were done in a high-twist merino.
However, if you do like cotton, this version from Perro is the best I’ve tried in terms of performance. The crepe does something similar to a twist, helping the cotton to maintain its shape and make it more breathable too. A smallish collar and a straightforward make, but a great feel on the body.
€130
This new polo from Casatlantic I loved too, though in spite of its cotton rather than because of it. The material isn’t the coolest; it’s a fairly thick cotton. But the style is fantastic, particularly with high-waisted trousers.
It’s slim, short and fairly fitted at the waist (not unlike Rubato knitwear, though the Rubato polos are more generous there). The collar is large, and normally would be too dramatic a style for me, but it works in the black I went for, because the shape and collar are a little hidden. Unfortunately they all seem to have sold out quickly, and won't be restocked this summer.
Pherrow’s open-collar rayon shirt
£149
It’s a perennial problem, actually, trying to recommend products in a round-up article, when they often sell within two or three weeks. This rayon shirt from Pherrow’s for example, available at Clutch, is the first I’ve tried that I really liked - primarily because the collar is smaller and overall it’s a very simple, straightforward make. Good price too.
But many of the sizes have gone. I can see a medium in the black, an extra large in the natural colour, and one or two others. That’s about it. However, this is a style Clutch gets every year, so it’s one to note down and look out for.
The Anthology drawstring linen trousers
$295
I have a pair of olive-green linen drawstring trousers from Informale that I’ve worn a lot the past couple of years. They’re for hot days, when you want that extra comfort, and not for tucking anything into, so the waistband is covered.
However, I recently tried the similar style from The Anthology, and prefer them. It’s a single pleat, rather than double, so you don’t get all that pooling around the waist. They’re a better rise (for me) and the Japanese linen is cool while holding its shape better. I bought the navy, and am considering the olive.
$575
Haulier sent me one of these totes to try, earlier in the year and the slow-woven canvas is beautiful. The leather isn’t quite as good, and they are expensive, but it’s a really nice option for a beach bag.
I mention it because a reader specifically asked for a recommendation for a beach bag recently. However I realise not many readers will go to the beach often enough to be able to justify a bag just for that purpose, particularly for over $500. I prefer the proportions of the bigger (and so more expensive) version too.
Anderson & Sheppard linen holiday shirt
£245
I love wearing a linen shirt on holiday, but most of my bespoke ones aren’t really suitable. They’re more fitted, long, with a higher collar designed for a jacket. They look a little too smart on holiday, and certainly can’t be worn untucked.
For that kind of shirt it’s worth looking for something more casual, which can often be ready-to-wear. One of the best there is these from Anderson & Sheppard, which come in a big range of colours, and are nice and blousy tucked in, or loose and flowing untucked. They do come up big though - even the XS that I wear is roomy.
Simone Abbarchi bespoke camp-collar shirt
€210
The alternative to that is to try and design something with a shirtmaker, adding in all the extra room you want, the length, the softer collar and so on. Shirtmakers are not always great designers, and this can be a bit hit and miss.
However, when I tried it recently with Simone Abbarchi from Florence (who also visits London and New York) he nailed it first time. This model has a camp collar, a straight hem and a looser fit. He’s also making one with a one-piece collar, which he calls a transformable or Loro Piana collar (as they were the first to popularise the style in Italy).
€89
Peplor is based in Florence, a young brand using old Italian military fabrics to make various accessories - and these shorts. I wouldn’t normally wear camouflage, but this is very subtle, and the cut of the shorts is really nice, short and roomy without being an extreme of either. It’s based off an old gurkha style, thankfully without the double-buckle business.
I did have one issue with them, which is that the drawstring broke, but apparently this was an early batch where the string was made in three parts. It’s now just one. They’re also pretty stiff, and won’t really soften much over time, so that won’t be for everyone.
Among other shorts out there, RRL has a couple of higher rise canvas options, and Buzz Rickson has some styles around that are great, if expensive. Clutch received those recently.
As ever, if you have questions on any of these products, including sizing, let me know. Also how they compare to other similar things in the market.
curious about you not liking knitted cotton polos but liking anthology knitted t-shirt?
also anthology linen drawstring trouser rise being better than informale? isnt it proper high rise on both?
Yes, good point on cotton polos v T-shirts. To a certain extent it’s a question of the particular cotton – eg the Perro crepe cotton and the Rubato silk/cotton are much better than the previous cotton polos I’d tried.
But there’s also something about the weight of the anthology knitted tee that works better as a T-shirt, it would seem a bit bulky in the collar and so on as a polo.
On the drawstring trousers, I found the rise a little different between the two, the Informale stuck a little short of a true high rise
Just following up on knitted cotton polos. I gave up on Smedley’s cotton polos because, as with your experience, they didn’t keep their shape and I found their longevity were poor. I prefer their merino polos. Are you saying the rubato polos/t-shirts are better in terms of shape (less crumpled) or too early to tell?
what does “a solid handle mean”?
thanks
Yes they are.
Sorry, by a solid handle I mean they have some thickness to them, and aren’t that soft – that’s a good thing in terms of keeping shape, but perhaps makes them not quite as cool.
I believe this is just the striped polos – they are in a four-ply yarn, and that’s the one I tried. But the others may be a two-ply, I’m not sure. I can check if you’d like and don’t want to ask yourself.
Yes, I’d appreciate you checking. They certainly look less substantial. Thanks Simon
I have a couple of linen shirts which are made to measure and which i have made for the sole purpoe of wearing it during weekends as i believe linen shirts are fairly causal.
Can linen shirts ever be as smart as cotton shirt or is it the same as oxford and inherently casual?
How should one measure the smartness of a shirt?
Linen can be pretty smart if worn under a jacket – historically it was seen as finer than cotton. But that is rather undermined when there is not jacket and the wrinkling is clearer.
Generally the material of a shirt is smarter the smoother and finer it is.
Whilst we are in summer mode this seems appropriate .
https://boutique.marinenationale.gouv.fr/fr_FR/le-vestiaire
The Marine Nationale have begun to sell their own military kit, I’ve have no experience ,but have a couple of tees on order. Hopefully they will be of usual military quality.
Thanks for the nice collection of well curated pieces, as always! I’m not sure what to think of the Italian camouflage shorts though. The pattern surely is interesting from a style perspective considering its subtle colours, but the pattern’s history somehow gives me a bad vibe (might just be me), given the introduction in Mussolini’s army in 1929 and subsequent use by SS units in Normandy. I wonder why Italy continued to use it, albeit in a slightly updated form, until the 1990s.
Well, I don’t think Italy’s fascist regime is as recognisable as the Nazis are, so there’s that.
I don’t see why it being worn by some SS units is problematic, considering that Flecktarn is little more than an updated SS camouflage, itself.
Son, you need to take a step back and reassess that comment. Whether the Germans are using “updated” camo or simply similar, doesn’t change that the origins are problematic given the record of the original unit.
Thanks Simon! Peplor shorts look great and good value but sold out so have pre-ordered for next batch. I bought informale linen trousers a couple of years ago but have only recently got comfortable wearing them beyond my front door – its been a long journey from having hyper conservative/repressed clothing tastes… I have found though that they work well with t-shirts tucked in. Agree doesn’t feel like a high rise especially and I’d probably be slightly less comfortable if it was.
This is a very cold, dark colour collection for top 10! I know you’ve been liking black more but the dominance surprised me.
I really like the Anfa knit, although I think I need to get some more regular polos first. And I think you’ve persuaded me on drawstring linen trousers. Now to find some more in my price range…
Yeah, there are often other colours in these, I’m just showing my favourites.
Sorry what we cover is mostly out of your budget
No need to apologise – if nothing else it’s good motivation to keep progressing in my career to the point I can buy some of these more regularly instead of just as an occasional special thing!
You could check out Luca Faloni’s linen trousers for a less pricey alternative.
Aaron, You could try Uniqlo. At least until you get round to something higher end. I bought a pair which I thought I’d trash through lot of wear and a holiday this summer. They have held up really well after washing and softened nicely. Just a thought.
A good this about PS is , as a minimum, it provides great ideas. Some investment proves to love and cherish, and other ideas to copy less expensively.
Just a thought.
Thought I recognised the fabric on those shorts! It’s an old (1960s) camo scheme for the Esercito Italiano.
I love these AWMS Espadrilles, but have very hairy legs and find the straps can catch and pull.
Do you have any suggestions how I can avoid this happening please Simon?
I don’t to be honest Arno – I’ve never worn the style before, though so far I haven’t found that issue.
It would be great to see more on knitted t-shirts, I love the look and feel of knitted polos and t-shirts but they are almost always too warm, much as they like to advertise otherwise I’ve never discovered a wool that isn’t too warm to be worn in that way.
The espadrilles are much more fashion than I expected from you too but interesting to see, kind of half way between ballet shoes and something for morris dancers.
Yes! I know what you mean, I’m not sure whether I will end up wearing them a lot, but the functionality of the ribbons is what hooks me in to trying them.
On the T-shirts, I’d certainly say that the Rubato ones are the coolest I’ve tried, but then I find the high-twist merino ones PS does to be cool enough too. Actually I find both cooler than a regular T-shirt – do you?
Hi Simon,
May I just ask you elaborate as to why the Rubato striped Polo is a favourite and what size you take on this?
Sure. I like the cut, which has that normal Rubato fullness, and the colour selection – the brown could easily be pretty boring, a little middle-aged even, but the soft nuttiness of it and the cream work really well. And same comments on the material as in the text.
I took a medium
Sorry Joe, actually I took a Small, just double checked. It’s a bit more open and looser than the others, which might account for the size difference
Hi Simon, will you do a more in depth review of the new rubato polo shirts? I really liked the casatlantic Anfa knit, but missed out on them. They sold out fast. Was considering the Rubato. Also, the all black look you showed is great! I think you really nailed it! And I think your tattoo actually looks parte of the look, it blends beautifully!
Cheers José. I’ll be doing a longer piece on that look.
On the Rubato polo, I might when I’ve worn it a bit, but that won’t be for a few weeks. If you have any follow-up questions on any of the Rubato range, maybe best to ask them here while there’s still stock
Hi Simon, may I know which size did you get for the Rubato polo? Do you know if there is any shrinkage after wash? Thanks.
Medium, and I don’t think so but not sure yet – I haven’t washed mine
The questions is mostly the fit. Does it fit like their knitwear? Or a little bit longer (seems like it from the pictures)? Also, for you what is the most versatile color ? I really like the brown, although most of my shorts and summer trousers are earthy colors (kakhi, brown, Olive), do you think it works well in tonal looks? Or the blue (also very good looking) would be more wearable with those bottoms colors? Thanks for the help!!
I think it is a touch longer, yes, though the fit overall is the same shape. On colours, I like the cream, the black, and the stripes, and they would work well with your bottoms. But the brown is nice too, and I’d be intrigued to try the blue, but I haven’t yet
Thanks a lot Simon. When I said the brown and blue, I meant the Stripes they launched recently, I just realized my questions as not clear . I think I Will go for the brown Stripes, which was the One that caught my eye instantly
Nice, I think that’s a lovely choice
I have to say, I went for the brown striped polo, and it is absolutely fantastic. The photos don’t do justice on the quality of the knit, the style and quite how versatile the colours are.
I did question if it would be worth it, but I have to say my decision to buy this one piece instead of a few cheaper pieces really feels like the right one. It really is unparalleled.
You are considering dropping SKr 4400 or about £350 on a polo shirt? It seems like absurd pricing for what it is. Factory made. Sold over the internet. With no distribution to actually try stuff on apart from a busy pop up once in a blue moon. Yes, its in a cotton silk mix, but then I’ve seen cotton silk fabric mixes even on the British high street for 1/10 of the price (in Mango for eg who sometimes use it). I get that places like Loro Piana might charge more, perhaps even double that, but Rubato isn’t Loro Piana with its own production facilities, retail distribution, or more importantly its brand name. Also lets face it a LP is really just selling to the itinerant oligarchy class where the higher the price the better anyway. I suspect what is going on is the pool of (hashtag) menswear fanatics is the audience and without retail distribution, or big marketing spend, you cant really appeal to a wider demographic and therefore you have a limited pool of customers. Therefore, with a potentially small number of units you can shift you have to charge more per unit to make this kind of business a very profitable venture. Saw a similar thing with a stoffa (who’s new products are all at lofty sky high prices), rubato (with all their nonpareil range which a quick google search told me meant ‘unrivalled’ which begs the question why all the products are not made to the highest standard in the first place) etc. Simon Id be interested in you doing a cost breakdown of these brands costs and so on similar to what you have done in Bespoke so people can see if there is any value in them. Finally just to say that I guess if you like the style enough, & you have the money you can just buy such things. Frankly it would leave a bitter taste in my mouth & a feeling that I had been well and truly done every time I wore it)
I’m happy to work on something like that in the future Rups, but to be honest I object to how many opinions there are here without evidence behind them. Even something like thinking a cotton/silk from a mass-market brand will be anything like one from a high-end one like Rubato. You might as well say all wool is the same.
Or Loro Piana. Yes it is very expensive and has got more expensive. But I’ve done so much over the years showing why brands like that and Hermes and RLPL are different from other designer brands, in that the quality is there of the very highest level, whether you think that’s worth the price or not.
Rubato make some of the absolute finest clothes in the world, at a price that is very reasonable for what it is. You won’t find a better make or material on a polo like this from any of those luxury brands, or from a Zegna, or a Brioni or anyone else, and they will all be double the price.
Lastly, I’ve spoken many times in the past about saying things are expensive just because they are in a casual style. This is not a normal polo shirt. It is a piece of knitwear that happens to have shorter arms, in a very luxurious make (hand framed, again look it up on PS) and material, with an original design and aesthetic.
OK, one more thing – nonpareil. A lamsbwool sweater made in Scotland is good quality, but doesn’t need to finest level of make. It would make it a different product – and it is priced accordingly.
Fair points & this is why Id be interested in a cost breakdown of these ‘casual’ clothing items. You’ve done similar for bespoke tailoring which was very insightful. I get the quality of fabric may be better at one of these niche / high end brands than on the high street, but how much of that & the make factors into charging 5 times the price for the finished item.
I guess my feeling on this whole area is that casual clothing is meant to be worn .. well casually .. & therefore you should be able to wear it in the park, throw a frisbee around in it, or sit around on the beach on holiday and generally wear carelessly. That lifestyle angle seems to be understood by the makers, who market the products as being worn in that way. However do a lot of people want to pay £350 + Taxes on a casual style top to do those sorts of activities? … or do they wear these things in a prim and proper setting where aesthetic is everything? I wonder if they come back home & instead of throwing a polo shirt in the washing machine as I would do after a hot day in the park, sit over a bucket hand washing their silk and cotton hand wash only luxury fibre top? I guess you’re going to tell me there is a market for everyone these days, & you’re probably right that in a mature economy where there is production of everything & then some why should all these needs not be catered for. As I said in a comment below, as we go into a recession I wonder how much of these luxe menswear will survive & how much will just evaporate or contract to serve the very rich elite who are shielded from the financial issues of everyday folk.
Hey,
I can see that, but I think it’s really just a style issue and presumptions about casual clothing. Just because something is a T-shirt (basically, just has short arms) it doesn’t mean you could or should go and play sports in the park in it. Rather, a lot of this really quite beautiful, refined clothing is a replacement for the suits and ties that used to be worn to the office, to work and during the week. I’d much rather someone wear something like that, with good trousers and loafers, than the cheap T-shirts, shorts and trainers they would naturally default too. This is not an easy area to design for, and they’re doing it very well.
As to hand washing, good clothes need looking after. It’s not that different to carefully ironing your shirt, brushing down and polishing your shoes, or brushing down a suit after use. All of which have been good practice for generations, and are simply about looking after clothing well.
to be honest I second an article to justify 350£+tax for a cotton-silk polo. i guess it’s law of diminishing returns, primarily super small batches, something to do with 4ply? plus a good make?
but still. I got 2 knitted polos from Spier and I’ll stick to them to judge how durable they will end up for me before looking to upgrade..
Yes Martins – you only have to look at the prices of Rubato lambswool knitwear, still well made, still a small, specialist run, in Scotland, to realise that the company is not interested in huge margins.
Comparing it to another polo shirt isn’t really accurate – this is knitwear and is made completely differently. Compare it to one of the finest cashmere pieces of knitwear instead.
Lastly, I always talk about this, but valuing a very luxurious piece of clothing purely on the basis of durability is not useful either. The finest things in the world are often more delicate, not more robust. That goes for everything from superfine shirts, to superfine suitings, to socks, knitwear, everything. Sometimes things do get stronger (felt hats, hand-sewn soles) but not usually.
I guess that is exactly the hard thing to wrap my head around. for most people, wool should be more…luxurious? than cotton. but here you have lambswool knitwear 150-200, but cotton silk shirt sleeved knitwear….350! hand framed? does it really double the price? wool ws cotton? does nice cotton really costs that much more? or they are using just decent but not the best wool? 4ply?
but regards durability… I’m not saying to judge luxury by how durable things are. but would be good to understand before buying to avoid disappointment. (like you responded once to one guy, “if this is how you want to treat it, maybe better look somewhere else?”)
but I’m still of an opinion, when trying something new, it’s not really nessecary to buy the absolute best. better to buy cheaper and figure out if it works for you. for example after buying Uniqlo rollneck I figured that wool knitwear that can be worn on skin or over t-shirt is really not for me. unfortunately I didn’t follow my own principle there and got pwc rollneck before that.
On the materials Martins, there is basic and more luxurious wool, and the same for cotton. As a PS reader I thought you’d know that it’s not as simple as what the fibre is – a finer cotton can be 10 times the price of the cheapest one.
On durability, true, it’s good to know that. It’s just good to keep it part of the evaluation but be educated enough to know that it’s not a consistent part of the story.
I agree with you on the last point – if you’re trying a new style for you, it is more risky to buy the finest version of it.
I guess I just didn’t think cotton can be THAT expensive… I’m kind of used to wool being expensive, cashmere being even more expensive, and cotton being, well the cheap option!
It usually is, true, but there are many levels – we covered how fine cotton can get, for example, in our piece about superfine shirtings.
I know you are keen to have more design based features,Simon , and the design of casual clothing, would I think, be quite an interesting starting point.
Another point on casual clothing -is we should really begin to value it more. My preference is Ivy,so tend to be quite a casual dresser, but that does not prevent me from caring for it.
Nice point Peter.
A late comment on this, but…
When you’re paying for a small, niche brand like Rubato, part of what you’re paying for is the quality and design. Quality here doesn’t always mean durability or hand finishing (though those usually factor in) or the most luxurious materials, it can also be things like an unusual make, or a combination of material. Zegna or Brioni might sell their polos with the argument that they’re the finest, softest lightest possible make as their claim to quality. Rubato feels quite different; their knitwear is substantial. To me, that’s part of the quality of their knitwear. Their polo is a 4-ply, likely quite different in feel from most luxury brands. Their design and the cut it has led to is also very different than most brands. And of course, because those differences are valued by a smaller group of consumers, they will be made in smaller batches.
Does that justify the cost? For most people, probably not. That’s why you don’t see big brands making more robust, shorter, boxier knitwear like Rubato does. But for some people, like myself, those differences are worth a lot. That knitwear looks far better on me than the slimmer, longer models in lighter makes that most brands sell.
As for the casual aspect, I don’t think most people buy luxury cotton-silk polos to play sports in, and I wouldn’t recommend it for my friends with small children. I don’t wear my Rubato knitwear when walking my friends (large, fuzzy, slobbing and very friendly) dogs. But summers in the office in a casual industry, going out for lunch on a warmer summer day, or just relaxing in a friends garden, I could see a Rubato polo being the perfect thing to wear.
You can’t go wrong with the classic Sunspel Riviera Polo. The design and make are fantastic and the fabric is comfortable on the hottest day and holds it shape very well. The same holds true for the company’s Riviera t-shirt. I highly recommend both and they last a long time.
I just received two of them, in black and gray, and they are lovely pieces. Very comfortable, perfect length, and also good to hot weather. I also like the collar, which as we all know can be difficult to pull off. Now, I hadn’t seen that they have a Riviera T shirt. Will have to try that.
On another topic, this was a great piece on summer wear. Keep it coming, Simon.
I wonder what kind of undershirts people are wearing in this hot weather?
I’m going to guess you’re American, Paul? People in Europe don’t really wear undershirts, particularly when it’s hot.
A great line-up as usual Simon. Love the use of so much black—but do you ever find that you regret that color choice when the sun really starts burning down?
Also, do the swim shorts have a liner in them? (I dislike liners but find that they are often included.)
I don’t really, no Devin. I know black absorbs more than white, but I find it’s a small factor compared to things like material, looseness of cut, exposing wrists and ankles and so on. I don’t really notice much of a difference as a result.
No the shorts don’t
Increasingly tempted by the drawstring linen trousers after today’s and yesterday’s posts but still a little too informal for work. Could you (or any fellow reader) recommend some equally lightweight linen trousers more suited to work and preferably in dark olive?
Thank you.
Dan
Dear Simon, how do you like the look of the new Casatlantic sunglasses?
I actually just tried them on yesterday, a friend has some. I like the colours, but the shape is too wide and large for my face – even as a more demonstrative, fashion-like frame. The quality is also good but not the finest
Yes, I was worried about the size. I ordered the all black and honey/green. I am curious if they will suit me. And yes I also think they should be understood as an unusual and bold piece, so they fit the occasion and the outfit.
Simon,
What distinguished good quality sunglasses from great one? In particular, what do you look for when assessing their make considering that over 99% are made from acetate?
I’d suggest having a look at my pieces on sunglasses over the years Ben, particularly those at Bonnet and Meyrowitz. Acetates vary, but most significantly the make varies a lot – a good handmade pair of glasses is so much smoother and more accurate, and three-dimensional.
It’s also a question of fit and adjustment. It’s standard for Meyrowitz to remake an arm to make sure something fits perfectly for example, and they are very experienced. Compare that to a high-street maker where the staff really have little idea how glasses should fit, or what compliments one face or another
Simon, that blue and white striped short-sleeved shirt that you wore at Pitti looked like an ideal summer holiday shirt. Would you mind sharing who made it for you and if it was linen or cotton?
It was actually one of ours Tom – it was the new version of our short-sleeved linen shirt. Should be released in a week or so
Yesterday I was still wondering if there would be a summer top 10 list again this year….ooops, there it is!
Dear Simon,
are you wearing the shorts just for swimming, or are they made for sunny holiday days? I am pretty unsure about the sizing….
For holiday days too, but only very casually, ie T-shirt around the villa, not into town
Hi Simon, what will you match the pherrows with? It will be great if you can let us know the different combinationS you had, like previous years.
Hi Jason,
I’ll write a longer post on those combinations I think, because it is an interesting area. It’s a style of shirt I’ve never really covered before.
In brief though, I’ll wear it tucked in or out with smart linen trousers or (tucked out) with casual ones. The rayon might be a little too smart for the most casual of trosuers, like old fatigues or jeans or casual shorts though
Hi Simon,
As always with these top ten’s some great tips here.
In particular, I have been looking for cool linen drawstring trousers for those unbearably hot days where even lightweight chinos feel like a heavy wool blanket. How would the linen compare to seersucker for summer? I saw some seersucker ones at Trunk a while ago but didn’t buy as I was not sure about how cool they might be.
Re the crepe cotton polo I bought five or fix different colours from Filippo de Laurentiis early this year and have worn them throughout the recent few balmy weather periods. The crepe cotton let’s enough air flow through that now, in warm weather, other cotton polos feel far too heavy and hot. In fact, the PS merino polos are cooler to me than some of the (non crepe) cotton ones.
I was going to get an A&S linen shirt. I take an XS in most of their offerings and you are taller than me so I will have to try it on in store. If it is too large, any alternatives at the same level?
Many thanks.
Yash
Hey Yash,
Seersucker is great, I’m sure that would be pretty much as cool. Linen is cooler to the touch, which can be nice, but that’s probably about it
Thanks on the cotton crepe recommendation, and great to hear on the PS merino polos. I love that merino so much
I haven’t seen any alternatives to the A&S, but I would say that it’s a fairly basic, loose linen shirt, intended to be casual, so I wouldn’t worry about getting something pretty basic – doesn’t have to be the finest quality
Hi Simon,
Great, will look out for more seersucker as well then because I do love the look of it for casual wear.
Yup that Merino is spectacular and versatile. Wore it in grey to the office this week and then Navy is coming out to play again on Saturday for dinner.
Noted re the A&S. Will try them on and/or pick up something else.
Many thanks.
Hi Simon, I like the look of the Peplor shorts/trunks as a summer alternative. Are you able to comment on sizing? I see they offer two sizes that overlap (given elasticated waistband, I assume). I’m normally a 33/34″ waist so arguably could take either.
Yes I found the sizing was very forgiving, so I wouldn’t worry too much about it, but I took size 1 (normally 32 waist) and it worked well for me, with some extra give as well
Hi Simon, thanks for reviewing these summer pieces. You mentioned the size is forgiving on the peplors, how’s the rise?
A mid-rise, nice but not high
Ahh, it´s huge shame that “Anfa” knit is truly sold out. Great recommendation, Simon. Hope they could do something about it next year. Fit and design looks very interesting!
Have you seen the “talented mr. ripley shirts” from Scott Fraser? I think they look amazing. Unfortunately I could not persuade myself that I would have any ocasion to wear something like this. https://scottfrasercollection.com/product/ripley-ischia-knit-shirt
I have, and Scott does wonderful things. But most of them are not my style either – just a little too much colour and contrast. But they look great on others, and Scott’s are well made, unlike some you see from fashion brands
During lockdown and weekends,I wore his track pants constantly.
https://scottfrasercollection.com/product/tapered-track-pant
His tailoring seems very good value, considering the fabric options .
Yes. It’s a fairly basic make compared to some things we cover, but it is still good value I think
What’s your opinion on classic polos such as those from Polo and Lacoste?
Probably best to see our round-up of polos like that here Thom
Hi Simon. Great article. I’m considering the navy blue linen drawstring trousers from Anthology and need some advice on size. How do they fit? True to size. I typically take a size 52 in a pant (Incotex for example) and have them taken in at the waist by 1-2 cm. I need the leg room in the thigh. Please let me know your thoughts.
Also, would you pair these pants with a pair of sneakers – a pair of cream Superga’s? What other shoe options exist
Grazie,
Bruno
Yes I’d say they’re pretty true to size.
Personally given how summery they are I like them with lightweight loafers or with canvas shoes, like tennis shoes. Less with leather sneakers
Hey, Simon! Nice list, thanks.
As you have been writing on knit polos quite a bit here and in the past, I was wondering – have you ever tried Gran Sasso knit polos? I find they are made up in really but sturdy cotton, are very breathable, and keep shape both during wear and after wash. And they meet the high standards of make, quality, and pairing well with tailoring, I’ve found mine performing very well under the collar. I think they’re a great option, but haven’t seem them mentioned here. Would appreciate your views. Thanks!
I haven’t tried them Leo, no, but I will do some day soon, they have come up more than once
How is the Perro polo in terms of fit (length and body width) compared to the Smedley Adrian? The Smedley fit me well, but I do see your point regarding the material.
It’s quite roomy in the body, but a more conventional length.
Does that mean Smedley is more convention ie longer in length than the Perro? … or have I got that the wrong way around?
Generally would you say Perro has a slight vintage look to it, & the look is meant to be looser with a fuller high waist trouser which look like they do? How would you tackle sizing for them & could I ask what size you opted for with them (& perhaps what do you take in a Ralph Lauren Polo size for purposes of comparison)?
Thank you)))
I would compare the measurements like the lengths to be sure Rups, especially as I don’t have some of the polos you’re referencing, particularly an RL one.
I wouldn’t say Perro is that vintage in style and cut, certainly less than Rubato for example
Simon, what do you make of this phenomenon of niche menswear brands setting up what are often essentially ‘mail order’ brands. It definitely seems to have become more noticeable than 10, 20 years ago. With all these popping up, I guess with lower fixed costs, & ability to use factories to make small batches its relatively easy to set something up, will they be able to survive with a whole load of them competing with one another?
Secondly, sort of a related point, I don’t exactly understand the pricing of these niche online brands like Rubato for instance. I get they are making small batches but they don’t have a fixed premises, a large staff as most of their production is outsourced, & they operate online. However they are selling products at high prices. In the old days the advantage of mail order brands as I put it was they were cheap(er) but this doesn’t seem to be the case here. Whats going on?
Hey Rups,
On the first point, I think there probably will be a shaking out of some of the smaller ones in a few years. But at the same time, so many of the big brands have collapsed amid mediocrity, that there’s quite a big gap there to fill.
On pricing, I’ve answered your other comment lower down on this. To be honest I think you have really underestimated the quality of the Rubato product. You’d get the same quality at a luxury brand for twice the price.
Hi Simon, it will be interesting to see what happens as we go headlong into what looks like will be a proper global recession. I think you’re right that there will be a shakeout. Also the types of clothes people buy Im guessing will change, less jet set rivera style to perhaps more workwear orientated style as they decide to start mowing their own lawn) Anyway interesting times ahead & I guess well see how social trends affect menswear & style over the next few years.
Would you tend to wash or dry clean knitwear?
Wash. It’s easy to do and takes much better care of it. It’s amazing with wool knitwear that gets dirt on it, how quickly the dirt just floats away when you soak it in some warm water.
We made a video on this kind of care here
I bought an expensive boggi wool polo and the rolling pin washed it . It shrank
Great article Simon, some nice bits in here this season. Earmarked a couple myself if not for this year, next year. The Rubato knit polo’s are great, particularly like the navy + white/ecru stripe, although a little pricey (relative) I’m sure it’s justified.
As an aside, what’s your take on the new Colhay’s? The collegiate sweaters seem very handy for those days/evenings where full cashmere isn’t the most practical, very useful. The Colahy’s dark olive is possibly one of my favourite shades of olive, works so well in a cold colour wardrobe, looks great with well worn denim and a navy bomber/harrington. Also cracking with black.
Cheers Chris, and yes it is good value for what it is – if you want that level of make and material.
I haven’t tried the Colhay’s yet I’m afraid, but I’m seeing Ronnie next week to do so…
hi simon have you tried anthology terry polos and would you consider wearing something like that with shorts in summer?
I haven’t. I’m sure they’re nice, but personally I’m not a big fan of terry unless it’s really a beach holiday piece. I know others find it great when you sweat a lot in the heat, but I don’t particularly and I find it quite warm
Yeh agree . When Connery had that toweling suit in sky blue didn’t it look fey
Personally I find the polo model works well in all seasons, it’s just a question of fabric. The design is simple yet very sophisticated. I’ve worn the Smedley Dorset model for the Autumn/Winter months and the Sunspel Riviera for the Spring/Summer seasons in multiple colors for several years now and both have served me extremely well. Recently however, I’ve become interested in long sleeve polos with button cuffs from Luca Faloni which I’ve really enjoyed. I really like the idea of rolling up the sleeves. I also just ordered the Permanent Style button down Friday polo in navy and am particularly excited about this garment. I suspect it’s an improvement in quality over LF. If the PS polo works out I’ll order the remaining colors. This sartorial interest that we have is so much fun!
The best polo is the original smedley but they tell me it can’t be produced anymore
Along the lines of the A&S linen shirt you included here, what are your thoughts on the linen shirts from Luca Faloni (namely the Portofino linen shirt) for the same use case?
They’re nice, and solid quality. Personally I don’t like the slightly small one-piece collar that much, but that’s quite personal
Hi Simon,
Did you machine wash your Anthology linen drawstring trousers? Recently bought a pair and label says dry clean only.
I haven’t cleaned them yet… though I guess with trousers I won’t be cleaning them that often
I ordered the olive linen anthology trousers last weekend and they arrived on Thursday. I wore them for the first time yesterday. The shade of olive is really nice, not too light in colour. The weight feels substantial but they wear cool and are perfect for this heat. I sized up to a 52 and glad I did (following advice above). Being single pleat they look neat but casual which is a nice balance.
I need to think about what to wear with them on top and for next year will ask Simone Abbarchi to make a linen Cuban/guayabera type line shirt in a light beige, probably long sleeve.
Nice. On beige shirts, you may already have one, but be careful as I find they often wash me out a bit – I end up wearing them with a white T-shirt underneath to create some needed contrast.
Have you machined-washed your Anthology linen trousers? If so, how did they hold up?
Yes, and they were fine. Delicate setting, hang dry
Hi, Simon! What colour is the Perro polo you bought? Having eyed it for a while and having read positive reviews from you and others, I bought their number in cream, also to fill my gap after navy and blue. Unfortunately it is too transparent. My nipples show, pardon the vision in your mind, and the fabric folded over on the inside of the placket contrasts too much with the body of the shirt. The fabric itself is nice and felt like it would perform very well in heat, but this was just not the colour for me. Mind you, my complexion is fairly light so perhaps the nipples (apologies again) stand out (that pun was NOT intended).
I bought the black. Creams are hard, as if the material is going to be open, it’s always going to be a little transparent in a paler colour. Same goes for the doubling back of the material, though I quite like that.
I also don’t mind a little transparency, but then I don’t have a particularly hairy chest, for example.
Right, thanks! I actually have basically zero chest hair, so that one’s less of an issue.
How does your own cream perform in this regard?
I did find also that Perro is not top quality in terms of make – was this your impression too?
The Perro is a bit more of a straightforward make, yes, which is also reflected in the price compared to ours for instance.
I can’t compare the transparency of ours to that of Perro, having not tried the cream, but while I don’t find it transparent or uncomfortable at all in that regard, if someone did have a lot of chest hair or felt more self-conscious of that at all, I can see they might be better with another colour. Sorry, it’s hard to describe something like this in words!
No, I hear you. I guess it could be the self-conscious thing. I feel similar about light trousers, if pockets can be seen I assume my underwear can be seen. I’m not overly hirsute, but being of a lighter complexion and darker hair and nipples (they really should come up with a less embarrassing word here) I feel a bit too aware that that might show.
Hey Simon can i ask what is your sizr in the perro crepe polo and the ps short sleeve shirt?
50M and Medium, respectively. Though I’m a little between sizes with the PS – I could wear a large as well, rather like the T-shirts
Thanks simon do you feel you could do with a size larger in the perro? The measurements in their size chart for a medium look tiny (shoulder 41 cm chest 102cm)
No, actually I find it fairly roomy
Just received the Peplor trunks after ordering them off the back of this post. They’re great; fantastic fabric and fit and beautiful packaging.
Thanks for the nice list. Which size are you wearing in the Anthology linen drawstring trousers?
I have also read in another article that you are wearing a Large in the Anthology knitted Tshirt. Would you still recommend that knitted Tshirt and do you need the Large or would a Medium work too?
Thanks. A 48, and yes a Large – a Medium would be too short for me
Simon, two questions, if I may?
Thank you very much for your guidance.
1. I think you need to be aware there’s a slight danger that they look like the same material just in different colours. But it’s only a small danger – usually the texture of each will be different enough. Particularly if the trousers are more like a heavier, Irish linen
2. I find it’s ok if I tie it neatly, with a the polo or T-shirt then sitting over the top.
Have you found the navy Anthology drawstring trousers to be as versatile as the olive? If you had to buy only one color, which would it be?
It depends what else you wear, but I’d say probably the olive
Thanks. This is a bit of a crossover with another question in the loafer post. I’m trying to figure out what shoes to wear with casual clothing such as the drawstring linen trouser. Would you wear a Sagan Classic loafer in a brown suede with them, or are they too smart? What are some good shoe choices?
I would wear that, yes, plus an Alden more casual loafer, a tennis shoe and an espadrille.
In fact most of the things in our summer shoes list. Not sure if you’ve seen that one
Hi Simon,
Do the Anthology linen pants fit true to size? I am a size 30 waist.
Best,
Andrew
I found they did, yes
Thanks Simon
Simon!
Would you ever wear you bespoke long sleeve linen shirts which has higher collars without a jacket and only with jeans just like an Oxford shirt?
Probably not, no. I’d prefer a lower collar, and probably a more casual linen too