This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece of cloth to make up this piece.
We had already made the collar smaller and more cut away; we decided to make it a touch more. We had discussed the possibility of pockets with flaps, or even slits behind the front seams; we decided against both. The removal of the extended waistband, it was decided, was a good thing.
There was a short back-and-forth over the seam across the back. Davide had rounded it somewhat from the second fitting, aiming to align it with the shoulder line. I liked the fact it contrasted with my sloping shoulders, adding breadth. We compromised, with Davide promising to flatten the line in the final pattern.
We decided, finally, that a summer version of this would be nice, in cream linen. Or maybe sugar-bag blue?
Photos: Luke Carby
Photos: Luke Carby
Ouch!
Where would you actually wear such a garment?
I’ll post some pictures in an ensemble when it’s finished, but it will be very versatile – it could be worn with jeans and a T-shirt, or pale-grey flannels and an Oxford button-down shirt.
Thank you. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.
The curved darts in the front are elegant. In the top photo Davide resembles Alan Rickman. I mean that as a compliment.
Are you able to give us any pricing information for a project like this?
Hi, yes I did on a previous post – it’s £4200
Can’t wait to see the final result. Chocolate brown or lighter ? You can keep it a surprise…
A bit lighter. I actually just saw the leather come in, so will post some images of that next week.
Davide really is an incredibly well-dressed man.
And the fit looks outstanding, I am very jealous of this project.
Absolutely: if the definition of elegance is being at ease with oneself and ones clothes, as I’m sure someone has said, then Davide is one of the most elegant men I know.
My favourite detail: the two or three plain earrings he always has inserted through the lapel or some other part of his suit.
This is indeed a very nice project! I think you did right in keeping it rather simplistic without the pockets. I am looking forward to see how the collar plays out in leather.
Oh my goodness – I want to be you. Really nice jacket. I like the open collar shirt you’re wearing with it.
Ok – I had to go back to Part 1 and re-read up to Part 3 to understand the jacket process. I originally thought the Part 3 WAS the finished jacket and was thinking – ‘my what thin leather’ only to realize later it was the pattern jacket.
After seeing that for what it was (finally) I wondered about making a pattern for a material like leather. Even though we can see the pattern jacket fits you (definitely!) the leather material has to be so much thicker than the cloth pattern – how do you really know how the connection between the various pieces of the jacket will look based on the pattern jacket? Is this just an approximation? I would think leather would be phenomenally unforgiving – so adjustments later might not be really possible.
Hi Robert, pleased you liked reading the series.
The leather is very thin and soft – a nice brown nappa – and so the difference in thickness won’t make much difference. Even a thicker leather wouldn’t make that much difference: there is more between a summer worsted and a heavy flannel.
You’re right though, adjustments won’t be possible on the final piece, hence the three fittings where only small changes have been made…
Hi Simon,
The muslin looks great! I’m curious did you draft the arm hold and sleeve cap differently since you’re working with leather, if yes then how so?
Thanks. I’ll post a picture of the pattern next week, but no there wasn’t much difference. We deliberately wanted to apply a soft suit shoulder to a leather jacket
Great
Love the cut of the trousers in the final shot.
Thanks. They are A&S, so cut by John Malone. He does do very good trousers. In Loro Piana cashmere/cotton corduroy.
The fit of course is rather distorted by the hands in the pockets…
How much would such trousers cost from A&S?
About 800 if I remember correctly
This jacket is killer, love the color. Great photos