The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. You can’t fit leather in that way because alterations would mark the hide. So all the fittings have been in waste cloth that Davide has had lying around at Gieves.
The ‘swatch’ of leather that I picked was about an inch square – not really enough to get a sense of the texture and variation in colour. I agonised over the choice, with Davide eventually convincing me not to go for something safer, darker and less characterful.
It was a relief, therefore, to see the leather when it came in. As you can hopefully see from the images, it is a lovely mid-brown nappa with natural texture and tone. It marks easily, which also bodes well for how the jacket will age over time.
The leather worker we are using is more used to making brasher, brighter jackets for the likes of Avi Rossini. Having a natural leather and somber lining (you can see it and the sleeve lining in the bottom of the first picture) was one way I hoped to stop the jacket turning into one of those garish, overpriced pieces.
Below is a photo that Davide took of the pattern for the jacket, which I like. I’m sure tailors will be interested in the way he has translated a traditional coat pattern translate into a shorter-style jacket.
Hi Simon,
It would be interesting to hear your thoughts regarding whether a bespoke leather jacket provides that extra bit of oomph when it comes to fit and style as opposed to off the rack.
Where as a bespoke suit has obvious benefits – and is quite a complex item of clothing – is it the same for a leather jacket? I suspect you may not be able to answer with certainty until the final product is on your person.
You’re right Mark, but I get the sense that it will make a definite difference – as most leather jackets don’t really fit at all through the waist, just hold on the hips or (on some fashion models, eg Rick Owens) are just tight everywhere and lose any precision in fit.
The difference will never be as much as with a bespoke suit though. That is greater than anything else bespoke – shoe, shirt, anything.
Has part 3 of this vanished from your website? I can’t seem to find it.
No, it still exists. Second line of search results, and here
Hi Simon,
I’m considering commissioning a leather jacket in a similar style but can’t decide between a tan or a dark/cognac brown. My instinct is to go for the dark brown because it’s more versatile, but I keep thinking the tan could be equally versatile and a little more interesting. Would you have a view on either?
Many thanks,
Ravi
If in doubt I’d go for the dark brown Ravi, definitely