Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get them (such as the Stefano Bemer shoes) and this goes into that category. I don’t think I stopped smiling for the first 10 minutes.
Of course, it is more of a bridge coat than a pea coat, given its length. But we’ve called it a pea coat ever since the initial designs back in 2013, so I’m sticking with it. The important thing is that it is just long enough to cover the longest of suit jackets (Chittleborough & Morgan) and can therefore work as well with tailoring as a jumper and jeans.
Indeed, one of the reasons I love it is that it sits so well between formal and informal clothing. I wouldn’t wear it with evening attire, but otherwise it will suit any suit. On the other side, I wouldn’t wear it with trainers, but otherwise it will go with anything casual.
The navy colour helps, as does the fact that pea coats are quite popular at the moment. A double-breasted overcoat stands out and looks more formal partly because there so few around. Everyone has an overcoat, but almost no one has a DB.
That conservative design and colour helped Davide and I express ourselves in the details. The strong shoulder, the black frogging, the vintage brass buttons: all of them set this coat apart from anything you would see ready-to-wear, but you don’t notice them until you’re up close.
For me, this is exactly what bespoke should be. From a distance, all you should notice is the fit. Someone that knows nothing about bespoke should simply think it looks good – striking, sharp, flattering – without knowing why.
In a similar way, the thing I love most about this coat is probably the shape of its front edge. It starts pointing in at the shoulder, bulges slightly at the chest, then sweeps long through the waist, before kicking out ever-so-slightly over the hips. It is beautiful, it is subtle, it conjures the ideal physique in just as powerful way as the side seam. And you rarely see it outside vintage and bespoke.
I’ll post more photos of the details when I have them next week.
Photography: Julian Anderson
Beautiful and authentic, and a timely reminder to some that Gieves is more than just a R-T-W emporium. As good as their designer is, this ought to be the very essence of what they do and the reason that they have a shop on Savile Row. The bespoke team are too often ignored by the company, as well as the Rake et al, in the whirlwind of PR surrounding the R-T-W collection. Your posts are a welcome contrast, Simon.
It’s interesting, bespoke is doing very well there. They’ve taken all work in house for the first time, and are looking to expand more. An interesting lesson for those that assume foreign ownership is necessarily bad
I thought bridge coats were much longer than this. This looks much closer to the length of a pea coat since it’s only slightly longer than a suit coat. Anyway, this is a beautiful coat! It’s certainly not a traditional design, but it has appropriate details that are very interesting and a perfect fit. It’s a designer coat that will never look outdated, something more designers should think about.
Beautiful coat. But more than a year to execute? How can that be? May I ask–no matter how amazing the outcome–is that acceptable to you, the customer?
Thank you and wonderful journalism Simon.
It was partly by choice, Fred. We put it on hold over the summer when there was no need for one. And despite four fittings, we made sure it was ready when the cold weather struck
Perhaps a bit to military? Personally would not feel comfortable wearing. Maybe changing the buttons to less contrasting ones would help…
Can definitely see that point of view. I love the buttons, but they could be in black or brown horn and it would completely change the look
Much more dramatic than usual! Does a jacket fit underneath, looks like a v structured shoulder would have difficulty
also new photographer?
No, fits well underneath…
Very good, Mr. Crompton. Assume lookout on the port bridge wing at four bells. Remember CBDR (Constant Bearing Decreasing Range) signifies the object you’re monitoring is on a collision course with the ship.
Superb Simon, particularly that curvaceous lapel. It would be great to have a few more photographs from different angles.
Will do Md, coming next week
Hello Simon,
Staying with bespoke overcoats – I like for my collar to always be UP. Did you once write that having a notch lapel allows for this better than a peak lapel?
Kind regards
Yes it does, although it can work with a peak too. Have a look how it works with my Loden coat, for a notch, and for upcoming overcoat pieces with a peak. The key is the peak need to wrap across under the chin rather than sticking into it. So a flatter peak
Complements on the beautiful curves of the lapel. Does it fit a bit loose with a sweater than with a jacket on? Out of curiosity would the stronger shoulder compensate the difference between the 2 if any?
Yes, it is a little looser with a sweater. The shoulders do help a little that regard as well, though it’s never going to fully compensate
Simon—-One rarely sees a unique work of art in men’s fashion, wonderful materials, style and craftsmanship executed by tailors. However, you and Davide have created a grace of structure accented by special attention to details that deserves multiple quedos. Just outstanding!!! Congratulations and enjoy wearing that for the rest of your life.
Thanks John
Looks brilliant. This pea coat speaks to the very essence of the heritage not just of G&H but of tailoring more generally. I’ve always like that about G&H. Enjoy wearing it!
Hello Simon. Can you maybe explain why there is such a small amount of DB coats and jackets, suits in RTW? Maybe you can also confirm the following paragraph:
Fit:
Firstly, it is far harder to achieve a satisfactory cut in a double-breasted jacket than a single breasted jacket. Off-the-rack versions are notoriously block-like and lack the shape at the chest and waist of single-breasted equivalents. A good alterations tailor will be able to whittle something out of it, but the best solution is to get it made-to-measure.
And last:are the same kind of tailor alternations possible as in single breasted version (suppress waist, problems around neck, etc…).
Thanks for your answers. You have a fantastic blog.
Hey,
You get fewer DBs largely for style reasons. They were very 80s for a while, and seen as stuffy and conservative before that. A secondary reason is one of fit – which is well described in that paragraph you quote. A well-fitting DB is a beautiful thing, but it’s not easy to achieve RTW.
And yes, the same adjustments are possible as in an SB, but some of them are a little harder, such as around the neck.
Cheers
I’ve seen many coats to my liking, but this coat is stunning to say the least. G&H did an awesome job paying great attention to minor details that really make this coat unique.
Absolutely beautiful coat Simon! It manages to look unusual and classic all at the same time and is very distinctive.
I’m also a big fan of the photo on a white background. Much easier to appreciate the details of the jacket than the (admittedly very cool looking) GQ style shots you sometimes have on the site…
Thanks. Not easy to do- need a decent light set-up unfortunately
Looks great, but are you happy with the collar?
It seems to be collapsing near the back, both in the picture on this page, and in one of the earlier making-of photographs.
It’s an interesting area. Anything that’s higher than the bottom of your skull will fold slightly when your head pushes back on it. I actually think this coat does this quite well, as when you do so it folds a little in the middle, but stays upright. Others fold from the top and therefore lose the shape
Hi Simon,
This is really a stunning pea coat! From all that I have seen from you posted on PS, this item is arguably the boldest statement you have ever made! Obviously, as it is designed, it also conveys a sort of wink to how Gieves & Hawkes has remained true to itself over the years: the slight touch or rather twick of its military origin and living legacy, that is. For once, Simon, you have let your sense of style really fly high! Please, do extend my “bravo” to Davide for this unquestionable proof of craftsmanship and demonstration of a living tradition! Well done!
John
Thanks very much John.
I actually think Gieves has been one of the worst houses at being faithful to its roots over the years, but things are getting a lot better, starting with a bigger, better bespoke department
Simon, this is something special, when you take the forthcoming shots could you please provide a good variety of differing aspects…I suspect your readership is going to spend some time enjoying and admiring such a fine garment. Some more detail re. aspects of design & construction would also be appreciated as the lines of the garment are just so graceful.
You need someone to proofread/edit your posts — it should be:
“That conservative design and colour helped Davide and me express ourselves in the details” (i.e. helped US express ourselves, not helped WE express ourselves); and “Someone WHO knows nothing about bespoke…” — people are ‘who,’ not ‘that.’
Jacket has a very nice fit, though I think it looks bit ridiculous; nevertheless, if it makes you happy, that is the point of bespoke.
Do you know whats the name and the purpose of the dart that is seen near the collar?
It is called a gorge or neck dart. It is there to help the coat’s collar and lapel lay closer around the neck and chest.
Can we get a better picture of the front of the coat without the the first two buttons fastened? Also, what size are the buttons.
Simon,
How have you found the exterior, under-lapel pocket, especially in comparison to a well placed interior pocket?
thanks,
Hugh
Very practical but annoying that it shows when the collar is up