What a lovely evening. Food, laughter, and some damned serious discussions about cufflink manufacturing and soft-shouldered tailoring. I love serious discussions at dinner.
The film of our Gathering dinner last month, in collaboration with Essence Lifestyle, is now available to see above. The craftsmen, designers and entrepreneurs we invited – some of the most exciting young people in UK crafted and bespoke menswear – are all here, responding to the questions you raised.
It’s pretty optimistic stuff. Cyclical fashion is dying; people want personalised, quality clothing; increased information is leading to more distinctive style. They would say that, of course, but it warms the soul nonetheless. Enjoy.
Lovely.
I just posted a reply on your Bentley piece; craftsmanship. doing something by hand rather than by a computer driven machine is a special thing. It is very closely linked in that hand painting an Aston Martin takes a phenomenal amount of time (can’t say how long as I signed a confidentiality agreement!) but it goes to the heart of the matter. My Aston(s) have all had a bit of a creak or a rattle, which you would not get on a factory produced equivalent, but to me that was as heart warming as the slight pucker you might get on the sleevehead of a bespoke suit. Discuss.
Aston(s) dear boy?? You should move up to the next level; my Royces (all 26 of them, now that you ask) were all hand painted on the thigh of a young Cuban, using a panda hair brush no less.
Harry, you’re incorrigible. That Inkster fellow never has to take the bus at all. EVER.
Great video.. Quite funny that probably two of the best dressed cutters on SR. answering that question
Would love to hear more, Simon. Will you be showing any further footage?
No, fraid not
About cyclical fashion dying, that’s sadly not what I’ve seen. Many traditional brands that had made the same styles for many years have changed their styles in the past few years to reflect current trends. Practically all brands shortened their suit jacket lengths and trouser rises in the past few years. Brands where I previously wore a regular length I now wear a long length.
But not New & Lingwood?
I’ve mentioned Justin before, though I’d say you generally swap quality of make with original design with his shoes. I would always recommend a traditional English maker for value of money, if there’s a style you like. Not a fan of Kent Wang, on quality or style.
New & Lingwood shoes are made by one of the Northampton makers, though I forget which one. So buy those over a manufacturer’s shoe at the same price just if you prefer the design.
I think most of N&l shoes are made by Crockett and jones. The designs are very similar and it seems like most of the time they are same models with just a changed name and different stamp. I don’t know how the prices compare from memory they are similar but N&l do have more regular sales on their models with better choice and availability that c&j
Facinating video. Big props to those shoulders on Michael Browne and David Taube!
Fashion victims aside, most people have cut back on their clothes spending in the recession and some are even spending on quality rather than quantity. If you can’t afford bespoke where do you go? The designer brands charge grotesque prices for fused clothing with pointless design details. The High St brands make badly-cut, cheaply-made clothes at low prices. When did wool become a luxury? It’s not to me, but synthetic blends are now the norm!
I think many people just want some good, honest clothes that they can wear for more than one season. Cordings, Barbour, Hackett, etc, use nice cloths and classic styling. I’ve never bought anything from any of them but I respect what they do. Designer brands peaked a long time ago but they’ll always have a market as long as there are few brands offering genuine value.
Supermarkets and cheap High St brands have manipulated the public into valueing cheapness in everything above quality. They can just as easily be persuaded to value quality again if we all do our bit.
love davide taub, even thougth i like italian tailoring more that british, taub is someone that i deeply admire, his cut is impresive and he is very creative. it would be nice to dedicate an article to him. simon i would like to have a tonik suit but i dont wear suits too often so i wear them as separates, what do you think about using tonik as an odd jacket?
Good idea on Davide, Mario.
Tonik is tricky to wear as separates, largely because of its hard finish and sharpness. If you are going to wear it as a separate, try to keep a good deal of contrast with the rest of the outfit, and aim for formal pieces elsewhere rather than informal.
Hi Simon
Thanks for sharing.
I really enjoyed watching this video. The concept is a great idea.
By the way, there’s also a cosmopolitan atmosphere that I find important in such a context.
John
Thanks John, pleased that came across
Dear Simon,
Please forgive me if you have already answered my question, but I forget to mark the notify me and I cannot locate any result, and I follow your instruction to place my question here although it does not pertain to the article above.
I have been wearing Jodhpur boots daily and desire a change to wholecut loafer of a price range befitting my modest means. You have numerous articles about Tim Everest, but I found neither FitzPatrick nor elsewhere Kent Wang, both offer wholecut loafers, although because they are different I need your advice. Which do you think better made and more beautiful?
Lovely indeed. Everyone seems to be such down to earth people with a strong love for the craft. In times of mad consumerism its great to see this indeed.
Simon, a quick question that I have been pondering. Do you use knitwear on top of shirts with French cuffs? I plan to order a few bespoke shirts with French cuffs in the next months, but havent really thought about if one can tuck the sleeve of the pullover underneath the cuff or if this becomes too bulky?
Best
Nico
It’s not ideal Nico, no. Generally I would only wear shirts with double cuffs for more formal/smarter occasions, when I’m unlikely to be wearing knitwear.
Simon can be proud to be a host and catalyst for this synergetic start.
.
Hi Simon,
Perhaps I am the only amongst your audience, but I think the Siniscalchi shirt-boxer is a good idea! Even with bespoke, my shirts tend to ride up or blouse out. I’d love to have an invention that tamed the shirt, keeping it in place the whole day.
Could other shirtmakers do such a creation easily?
They could, though I recommend a strap that goes between the legs first. Italian shirtmakers make it fairly often, it’s called a pettegola. Look up my piece on it on the blog – made by vergallo
The video doesn’t seem to work any longer?
No, the original team that made it have withdrawn it. Rather frustrating
Could you add the film link back in to this page. Or let me know where I can watch it. Thank you
I’m afraid not, sorry, it was the property of the magazine Essence, which no longer exists