The new Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
*Note: The brown of this jacket is perhaps a little browner and lighter than the pictures suggest. A picture of the skin itself has been added at the bottom of this piece to demonstrate. Thanks*
During the recent pop-up shop on Savile Row, the most asked-about item was the Donegal Overcoat. The one most readers came in with (perhaps surprisingly) was the Nubuck Tote. But by far the most popular - to try on, stroke and generally touch - was the PS Shearling.
Everyone tried on their size in the end I think - Ethan, Tony, Lucas, and a host of readers. It was simply the most luxurious thing on display, and it made a big difference that people could feel it as well as see it.
That’s the biggest problem with selling online. It’s hard to communicate how good something feels, let alone the specific ways in which it does so.
I guess most PS readers will have tried on luxury shearling before, so that’s a good start. It has that same light-suede softness on the surface, but unlike suede also has a pliancy, body and bounce, because there’s curly wool underneath. Like wearing a fine suede overshirt on top of cashmere knitwear, perhaps.
Let me know if that was a vivid evocation or, alternatively, gibberish. If it’s the latter I’ll try again.
In the meantime, here’s another angle. If most readers have felt luxury shearling, then this is the same - possibly better - and much cheaper.
I never make price a big selling point with our collaborations. In fact I think readers should be inherently suspicious of any brand that does so. But it is nonetheless true that Cromford uses the best shearling there is, and at any designer brand it would be almost twice as much.
The PS x Cromford shearling coat costs £2700, which is an awful lot of money. But the same Spanish merino is used to make pieces that cost over £5000 elsewhere, and there are many in between that are nowhere near the same quality. (Look out for larger skins and seams in odd places.)
The design points I ran through in our first article on this coat are more important, but it’s good to remind everyone of the value as well.
Those design points include the sweep of buttons that are all functional, fastening up under the chin. The double thickness of the shearling on the lapel and collar, which makes them sit better but stops the whole coat from being too heavy. And the pockets that work equally well for hands and accessories, whether you like to use the top or bottom set.
All the details are on the original launch article here.
This year we decided to do a different colour of the shearling for the second run. But there are still some coats and skins (for made to measure) available in the olive too. See bottom of this article for details.
This year’s colour is a very dark, greyed brown on the outside, and black on the inside. As described last year, this double dyeing is expensive, but I think creates a lot more character. Having a dark inner layer also makes the coat look less bulky.
The colours of the shearling are actually quite similar to the ones we used on the Wax Walker, and the same clothes look good with it.
So it looks particularly nice with grey, charcoal, taupe, cream and dark denim. But it’s also good with beige, mid-blue denim and navy.
The colour could seem quite striking when worn with off-white jeans, as I am in the image above. But actually it’s just a dark brown like any other, as you’d have in a core suede blouson or tweed jacket, and I find it just as versatile.
I’ve also deliberately shown it with different types of clothing to last time.
Last winter the olive version was shown with jeans and crewneck, and flannels and a roll neck. This time I’ve added a cream hoodie (above, from The Real McCoy’s) and a denim shirt (below, from Bryceland’s).
The combination below, in particular, demonstrates how nice this new colour is with dark indigo, which is not necessarily what I think most you’d expect.
That image above also shows how the coat looks with the collar down. I didn’t include an image of this last time, but not because I dislike it that way.
I am more likely to wear the collar up, but when down it has a nice roll through the front, and the curly wool on that leading edge is broken up by the hand-worked buttonholes.
Something else I didn’t show last time was actually my favourite way to button the coat, which is to fasten one lapel under the chin (there is a jigger button on the other side for the purpose) but leave the other lapel rolling open.
The shot below illustrates this. It’s nice because you still get a lot of protection across the chest, but you also have that long, flattering lapel line. And it only requires two or three buttons to be fastened (the other jigger button, at the waist, is the third).
The coat is sold by Cromford, not us, and so you should head to the Cromford website for details about sizing, product queries, and questions about made to measure.
The following is currently available:
- 20 brown coats ready-made in sizes Small to XXLarge
- Enough skins for 5 brown made-to-measure coats
- 3 olive coats (shown below) remaining from last year: Medium, Large, XXLarge
- Enough skins for 1 olive made-to-measure
The coats cost £2250 plus VAT for RTW, and £2812 plus VAT for MTM.
- MTM takes roughly eight weeks. The extra time is consultation, shipping and making toile fittings
- The MTM must be in the same style as this coat, but otherwise there are no limitations
- If you want a different style, this is a bespoke service, which should be discussed separately with Cromford
- I have a 39-inch chest, am 6 foot tall, and wear a Medium in both sets of pictures. I could happily size up to a Large too, though, if I wanted to wear more thick roll necks underneath. The difference between sizes is not Large. Again, though, Cromford are best for advice here.
Photography above, Milad Abedi; below, Jamie Ferguson.
*The new brown, as a skin and in more natural colouring:
Hi Simon, What percentage of the PS revenue is generated through the products? They seem to have taken a more promeneant position over the last year or so and i must say from my personal perspective i find these posts less interesting. It can feel akin to havig to sit through the adverts before the film begins. Some people may like this but its not for me.
Best Wishes, Steve.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for bringing this up, it’s a nice opportunity to talk about it.
PS products make up about half of the site’s revenue these days. But importantly, it is only thanks to them that I was able to commit to PS full time, and so make it the kind of professional publication I think it deserves to be. It’s why the quality of the photography is all consistently good, how we’re able to self-publish books like Bespoke Style, and why I’m able to travel to cover makers anywhere, whether it’s Horween in Chicago or Fukuda in Tokyo.
So to an extent, the products enable everything else, and I know some readers like the fact that by buying them they are helping to support the coverage (and make sure it remains free).
As a separate point, I do genuinely that the products add something valuable to the world of menswear – particularly as they’re usually focused around filling a niche for something I want to wear but can’t find. I know from the reaction from readers that buy them that they often feel the same too, which is really rewarding.
In that way I think it’s slightly different to, for example, a podcast selling ‘merch’ that is the same caps and tees everyone else does, just with that brand on it. That’s great too in the way it supports the podcast, but there’s usually nothing unusual or interesting about the product. I feel like ours in a nice business model in that respect.
Lastly, personally I think the articles on the products often contain as much that is interesting as a regular post, both in terms of information about quality clothing and suggestions on styling. You don’t have to wear this particular coat to find the outfit ideas useful, or to find it interesting that larger panels on a coat often indicate lesser quality shearling.
I hope that all makes sense. I am honestly grateful for the chance to talk about it, as it’s something I think and worry about a lot. It is always good to know whether readers think I’m striking the right balance.
There is one more new product coming out before Christmas, by the way, then that’s it for a few weeks.
Thanks again
Simon
I am sure that i am not alone in being a reader of PS for both the products and journalistic content. PS products are the most consistent i have purchased in terms of versatility, quality and fit, coupled with being wardrobe staples that i know i will wear for years to come. Indeed, the PS posts that i am most excited about are those that relate to purchases i can genuinely make (would love a pair of Fukuda-sans shoes, but that is never going to happen!), and PS products are always the most welcome in this regard.
PLEASE keep the products coming Simon! And thank you for the thoughtful reply to a good question; it would have been easy to shrug that question off, and i am sure we all appreciate the detailed and transparent reply.
Thank you on both counts John. And as I said, please do continue to feed back – it’s what has always made PS special
I completely agree about the quality and style of the PS Products, they are excellent and I think they fulfill exactly the purpose you (Simon) set out; that they should “fill a niche”.
I would absolutely like to see even more products and just not products “filling a niche” but also more mainstream things that you can actually find elsewhere, but made to the same quality standards and thoughtfulness as all the rest of the PS Products. There is always some small style detail that I enjoy or quality improvement in the PS Products that make them superior to other “standard” clothing items.
That’s lovely to hear Johannes, thank you
I’ll echo the same basic sentiment: I appreciate the articles on your products because they’re generally up to the same standards as the other posts here.
They’re not just advertising, and I enjoy reading the in-depth explanation of your design choices, seeing examples of outfit combinations, etc. That’s true even for posts like this one, where I don’t find the product particularly appealing on a personal level. It still makes for an interesting read.
I think the balance is about right.
I’ve never thought that any article was just a filler-before there is another product launch and I do find these articles interesting.
As a working photographer(not in fashion) I appreciate how much care goes into PS photo shoots.
We are bombarded with adverts on SM. I’m happy to support the site buying clothing-when it fits a gap in my wardrobe and it doesn’t to me,feel like there is any hard(or soft).
There does seem to be an increase in PS items for sale. I’m quite glad of that-it proves the concept is viable.
If I may add to this, I think there is also a two-way contribution arising from the products on offer, which are both of benefit to readers (even those who do not purchase).
The observations and insights gained from reviewing menswear feed into the concept, design and manufacture of the product, and then there are further insights gained from those processes which enrich reviews of other products.
I very much welcome the PS products and find their role here to be very organic.
That’s very interesting that the sale of products makes up about half of your total revenue. My guess would have been that advertising would be significantly higher. As a business model it seems slightly unusual and one could see that product sales could overtake advertising sales. The site therefor becomes a place that attracts traffic through putting out articles people want to read and uses that traffic to sell products directly to the reader rather than the traditional route of using the high volume of visitors to exclusively sell advertising. I suppose publications such as the Rake have branched into retail and conversely many online retailers try to generator original content to bring people to their sites and so they then subsequently buy their products [think Mr P]. Do you feel there is a danger that if the sale of products overtook advertising revenue something of the core PS appeal would be lost as the site would effectivly become an E-commerce site primarily rather than a journalistic one?
Hi Steve,
I think there’s certainly that danger, yes, which is why I think about it so much – I want to avoid that ever happening.
The limitation is probably best thought of in terms of the amount of PS articles, rather than revenue. The revenue can grow without necessarily writing more about the products, just because the products become more popular. That has been the pattern I’ve seen in the past few years.
When we first did the Friday Polos, in 2015, I wrote five different articles about 50 polos being available. Today there would be only one article, and perhaps three times as many polos. So it’s the proportion of product-related articles to normal articles that I feel it’s important to keep at a level that readers are happy with.
In terms of the industry as a whole, yes I think most publications have found that selling their own product is now a more stable way to fund themselves than advertising. That’s partly been down to advertising dropping off (fortunately not something we’ve suffered from) but also because some publications prioritise growth so heavily.
This last point is the crucial one, for me. What kind of company is PS? What is it aiming for? This drives all other considerations.
I covered this in an article last year, which you can read here. I made it clear then that the aim of PS was to remain doing what it does, well, for as long as possible. Not to make as much money as possible, not to ‘exit’ and sell to some other media platform (those offers come more these days), but to carry on doing what I love, and which readers value.
Thanks once more for the opportunity to talk about it.
Simon
I don’t find I have the same concern as Steve. If you’re watching TV, listening to a podcast or reading a magazine, adverts are unavoidable. In the first two cases, very hard to avoid; with the latter, you turn the page. But we’ve all read a glossy men’s magazine that has 40 pages of ads for designer clothes and watches before we come to an article, and that’s certainly irritating as you’ve paid a few pounds for a thick magazine, but the actual content is thin.
I don’t find that the case here – there is no limit on the word or page count for websites, of course. If you don’t like the product articles like this one, you can simply not read them. If they were to become so numerous that there was hardly any other content, sure, I can see the problem as being like reading GQ or whatever. But that doesn’t seem anywhere near the case: as well as a massive archive or articles, I’m amazed that after so long Simon is still finding new things to write about three times a week.
There’s one other crucial difference, of course: everything here is free to read.
I appreciate it, and don’t mind this sort of article at all, even though the coats are usually well out my range. Even without text, the photos often give me ideas on clothing. Keep on keeping on, I say.
interesting discussion here, I want to add that I have been a PS reader for several several years, and I have not bought a single product (pricing, stylistic difference, amongst various reasons). I have thoroughly enjoyed the product posts though because they usually come in the form of outfit ideas, colour combinations, or carry information around how a product is made and what makes a quality product. On a note of criticism, the recent coverage/launch of the PS donegal coat did feel like a ‘hype’ to me.
Thanks Zo, useful feedback on the donegal. Was there anything particular that felt hype-y? I guess it was eagerly anticipated by many, and went quickly, so that certainly added to the feeling I think.
Thinking about it, I think you’re right. You only had 2-3 blog posts covering it, it was the comments and the whole discussion around it that made it hype-y. Obviously, not in your hands. I did try the coat, and must say it looks and feels good. Sadly, doesn’t quite sit at home with my wardrobe and style, so not one for me.
Thanks Zo, and good to know on the coverage
I’ve been a fairly long-standing reader of the site, and have never felt that Permanent Style has ever tried to sell anything; rather, it’s as though you are permitting readers the opportunity to engage with – in a tactile, physical way – the insights, commentary, and styling on offer in all of the posts. It’s quite remarkable, actually.
It was many of the details noted on the posts that permitted an appreciation for the finer design elements of a piece, many that only the wearer will be aware of, as it is often understated elegance. It’s this sort of education that led to a trip to Private White, then to the purchase of the Bridge Coat (was sold out on the site, but I assume there is an arrangement there), and muted joy every time I wear it.
Do keep these opportunities coming. Would much prefer to support the site, than simply learn and go elsewhere for a purchase.
Thanks MP, lovely to hear
I really share the sentiment here, particularly “permitting readers the opportunity to engage with”. While I have perceived an uptick in products of late (about which I may be wrong), those posts are equally informative and welcomed as posts not related to a PS product. In fact, it is this exploratory and wholly educational process that is most satisfying: dare I even say democratizing knowledge of and access to high quality menswear. In the case of PS products, buyers profit from fair value (cue 5k+ shearling equivalents from large fashion houses…) and the satisfaction of supporting collaborations with smaller artisans. In a world where ESG is redefining the way we do business, what PS does so superbly is to allow Joe Bloggs to invest in a more considered, more sustainable, more equitable way into one’s own wardrobe. For me, that’s invaluable, and it, along with superior quality, is what keeps me coming back to PS products. And if I don’t buy, I probably will learn more about Donegal tweed that I would ever have thought imaginable!
Well said. I’ve read your site/blog from day 1 and I consistently find the same integrity year after year – whether it’s a post or a comment reply. Thank you very much for staying true to your principals!
Wonderful to hear, thanks Tim
Hi Steve, ultimately I have to say the “adverts “ are fine by me, the are often well thought out classics and use materials/ producers I wouldn’t have access to ( ie loro piana merino etc ) the items I have recently purchased are flawless quality ( I just wish they would reissue the finest navy crewneck and the darker denim shirt !)
Wow. The brown looks lush.
Great colour and styling! May I ask where the off-white jeans are from?
Sure – they’re bespoke from Levi’s Lot 1
This looks fantastic Simon and it is my favourite collaboration so far! I also like the balance between content and products and think it does add to the overall package. Great work ….. Now I need to decide upon my excuse to let me buy one of these. By the way, I purchased the sleeveless cardigan and it is great!
Thanks Stuart. And I’m pleased you like the sleeveless cardigan so much. I haven’t written about that in a while, but I was so happy with how it works as a layering piece.
It is perfect for this time of year and adds a bit of subtle detail. I wish you would release more colours! The quality is excellent.
I think the new colour looks much better. More modern and urban.
I would love to by it this year, but I can’t justify the price for something that will get so occasional wear. It approaches the cost of bespoke shoes, which for me would get far more wear.
I hope many others enjoy it.
Yes, I disagree with Steve too. I very much enjoy these types of pieces as the products are very well designed and highly desirable. I enjoy reading about the thought that has gone into them and like the way you start by trying to fill a gap in the market you have identified through your own experience. Your heart is clearly in these projects.
This coat looks beautiful. Another winner. It’s a bit out of my price range, but compared to LP or Purple Label it’s reasonable – and I’m sure it’s of comparable quality, or even better. Keep going, please.
Now as for the sustainability pieces …
That’s a provocative last line. Care to elaborate?
Feel free both, though again let’s please not get into a fruitless discussion about sustainability as a whole.
Hi Simon,
Could you tell us how you decided the length of the coat?
Shearling used to be popular where I’m from, and not that expensive, before nylon and down took over. My grandfather passed his coat to me when I was a teenager and I wore it until it reached the shearling equivalent of severely threadbare. Then later my father gave me his coat, I still have it and keep meaning to have some alterations done on it.
These coats were made for snow, frost, the kind of weather sometimes referred to as “Scottish conditions”, except we’re another 10 degrees further up the map. So, the coats come down to just above the knee and thankfully so, and the women’s cuts are even longer, to mid-calf.
I’m not criticizing the length, not at all – the shorter coat is much easier for car seats, trains, to keep clean. I guess I’d rather mention that, given the first comment. I’m just curious.
Thanks Stefan, it’s a good point.
There are generally three lengths of shearling – those that stop at the top of the seat (like a flight jacket), those than cover the seat but stop there (like this one), and those that run to the knee.
In each case, if the jacket is shorter then in very cold conditions you need to pay more attention to keeping the legs warm – with heavier trousers, or in extremis, long underwear. Living where you do, I’m sure you’re more familiar with this than I am.
When considering the length for this coat, part of the consideration was that most people won’t be wearing it in quite as cold conditions as that. Right now in London it’s between 2 and 10 degrees, and this coat is perfect for that. When you’re at zero and below you would need to think harder about the legs.
The other consideration was style. Coats are made in a longer length than this in shearling, but they look very dramatic then, and aren’t as easy to wear. They are of course also rather more expensive.
Talking about winter, what would you wear at -10, -15 or colder? I find a down parka or something similar necessary for the coldest months. There is also my fathers old shearling coat, it is certainly warm enough for such conditions, but too much 70ties style.
You shearling does not look as warm though…
No Erik, for those kind of very cold temperatures you would need a bigger, longer shearling or a serious down parka
I cannot afford this but this is breathtakingly beautiful. I hope one day to be able to buy products like this.
Hi Simon,
Just to add to the above I enjoy reading the pieces on your collaborations and creations I have a genuine interest even if I don’t buy anything and I never feel that I am being “advertised to” on PS as I do on other sites. Indeed if I ever feel I need to add anything to my wardrobe PS is the first place I come to in order to “start the search”. Keep up the good work.
Kind regards
Mark
Hey Simon,
Firstly, just to add my piece, I feel that PS products deserve to be a primary focus, so I’m glad they might be making a more regular appearance in posts ( I haven’t noticed that to be honest, still feel your coverage is as broad as ever it was). Why is it important? Because, as is the case here with the shearling, you display, logically, how it can cover such a broad spectrum, from a Real Mccoy’s loopwheeled hoodie, to flannels and knit in last years post. It’s invaluable. With most of us, whether we like it or not, dressing more casually, I feel like PS outerwear for example, takes a more primary focus in an outfit, would that be a fair statement Simon? I know You’ve alluded to this with a previous knitwear post.
I was chatting with Lucas about this coat at the pop up, it really is that good. And honestly, you have me sold thanks to the way you’ve displayed it in this post (again, why I find it so important). I’ll be honest, this would be an investment piece, and I’d need to save ahead. Will the shearling be a mainstay in the PS range going forward? Particularly this colour, I just can’t see how it can get any better than this.
Hi Chris,
Thank you. It’s a good point on outerwear – yes, I think if people are wearing jackets less, outerwear does get more of a focus. It’s often the thing you’re likely to be excited about.
I’d certainly like to keep the shearling available, but in the end it’s Cromford’s call not mine, as they’re stocking it and so taking the risk. I’ll certainly help in every way I can.
Thanks Simon, exactly.
What really makes this particular iteration, even more so than last years as much as I liked that one, resonate with me is that both in colour and in silhouette, it is understated, it typical PS fashion. Timeless. It’s a winter coat first and a shearling coat second, if that makes sense?
I have had a shearling on my hit list for a while, however at the start it was mostly military, B3’s etc. I was looking at and like many things, much as I appreciate them on others, might just be a bit too much for me, in my context. This shearling however, is perfect. It’s modern, refined, detailed and I could throw it over any outfit, whether that’s a knit or a Merz B sweat, flannels or denim without much thought. If you only had one shearling, this would surely be the one?
Thank you Chris, you’ve hit all the notes I was going for. And yes absolutely, this is what I would go for.
I think the bomber shearlings are too much for most people, yes. Something I referred to in the launch piece – the desire to get away from those and the long, camel-coloured type
Thanks Simon, please allow me to sneak in one more question, can I ask what you’re wearing in the bottom half in the image with the Real Mccoy’s hoodie?
Sure, no worries. I’m wearing dark denim
Hi Simon,
Following from Chris K comment and this may prove difficult to answer but having read your ‘if you had five coats’ article, one of the coats on the list was a shearling in olive or brown.
Which colour would you recommend for a more versatile shearling- this years version or last years olive assuming you have the rest of the coat section ticked off
They’d both be very versatile – a bit like a dark-brown or a dark-green jacket. But on balance I’d say the olive is better with things like tans, beige, mid-blue jeans, the dark-brown a little better with things like dark indigo, greys, creams. That brown is lighter than in most of the pictures by the way – see image at the bottom
Simon where is the belt from in the picture with brycelands shirt? Im looking a for a western style belt with engraved buckle and metal end piece.
It’s from Silver Ostrich
How many panels of shearing are on this coat? I have a number of USA made Sawyer of Napa shearing coats that are made using very large panels but the coats while warm are heavy and not very supple. I find the shearling coats from Australia or NZ are also similarly made. I also have a rather expensive Italian made shearing with smaller skin panels and the resulting more numerous seams but is much lighter and far more supple. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks RTK
Hi RTK,
In general, smaller panels means smaller, younger animals, so lambs in this case rather than older sheep. This makes them softer, more pliable, and more luxurious. It also means you need more, though, and they are rarer because lambs aren’t lambs for long. Hence why it (and other things, like calf leather) are so much more expensive.
Those coats with larger panels will be made from older sheep
I think thats the most beautiful product you offered this year. Its expensive but i have the feeling that its well worth it. About the product question id say that most of your products are interesting and are well thought so i always read them but rarely buy. This has more to do with the fact that i almost always have other priorities for my wardrobe at the time or i dont like something critical for me on the,. The donegal coat for example is a really great piece that evolves every year and i was waiting to buy it this year but the color was not my favorite so ill wait next year to see what happens. This year i got your beanie and i used it 3-4 times, next month it will see a lot more use for sure. You sure also notice that the times change and also the interests of the readers and of course yours. I was really interested for the bespoke stuff last year but now i like more the urban style clothes. I think the reason i read you regularly is your taste and your combination of ideas that i wouldnt think of, cause i dont have so much time or i dont have so many good clothes to experiment with. The new category of readers clothes is also a good addition cause everyone has his style and it makes me always admire or even adopt an idea for my style. Some other posts like the one about the goodart hlwd shows that you always keep an eye to things and brands that are in another way good and dont have the classic englisch smell. By the way whats the belt you are wearing ?
Thank you George, nice to know that wide-ranging viewpoint is appreciated.
The belt is from Silver Ostrich
Simon, how are you liking the belt? Would you recommend it in terms of quality? Thanks!
Yes, it’s decent, I’d recommend it
Simon, as someone who has read PS for many years now I have never felt that you are doing any hard selling of product. Frankly, even if you did sometimes, so be it. I have thoroughly enjoyed and learned so much from the free content you provide and as a result I don’t think that you should feel any obligation to explain your business model. As a reader I am delighted that you appear to have been able to focus on what you enjoy most and fund your lifestyle. Your sincerity in talking about your business model is admirable but as a “free” reader I don’t feel you owe me or anyone an explanation. Happy Thanksgiving from the USA !!
Cheers Thomas.
Personally I think it’s nice to be open about business models, though I entirely appreciate that you don’t mind either way.
A point I forgot to make, for example, is that this model of selling your own products is a lot nicer – to me – than the Instagram of doing promotions, often quite opaquely. Or magazines were people effectively pay for content. Selling products is very transparent.
It’s a great business model!
I wish more artisanal makers would learn from this. Over the years, I’ve seen too many artisans close shop in Italy, UK and US- not because their work isn’t appreciated, but because it has become incredibly difficult to get potential customers in front of their product (don’t want to call it advertising because it requires so much more than that). Like you mentioned above, you can’t really appreciate the coat until you touch it and put it on. Since that is economically restrictive for both client and maker, a trusted source is the next best thing.
Yeah, you’re promoting your stuff. You’re demonstrating a passion that’s appreciated by many. Great. It works.
Actually, I’ve been thinking about this exact concept for a while, and have talked local makers here in Italy. If it resonates with some of them, I always point out your site and how I think it is a very effective approach to get high quality-limited production work out in the market. In fact, I think it is the future for artisans to survive. Yes, its a limited niche market, and it takes time to build the “trusted source,” but I think it has been extremely effective.
Just my two cents. and BTW, absolutely love the donegal coat!
Current iteration is not exactly the “Simon Crompton subdued and reserved elegance that never stands out” by a long shot – What happened? I get compliments like crazy.
Very nice coat, Simon. The various features you mentioned are all very positive ones and the coat itself looks sleek and less bulky than most shearling coats I have seen.
Some time ago, I found a shearling coat at a vintage shop and bought it, since it was a very nice fit. It is a light brown/sand colour. It certainly is not as lovely and well-style as the PS model, but it is quite serviceable and will come in handy during our harsh winters.
Because of the nature of the coat and the fact that it is second-hand, I was wondering if there are any good options for cleaning it. Unfortunately, the good dry cleaners we had in my little Wisconsin college town closed down, and the chain shop we have now is not very good, or dependable. Is self-cleaning of the wool inside, or the suede outside possible, or even advisable? How do you keep your own shearling coat clean and fresh?
Thanks in advance for any advice you might have on this matter.
Sounds nice Peter.
You can clean the outside in the same way as you do with suede – see our suede cleaning video here.
Basically, brushing lightly makes a big difference, and a touch of water is also fine, to bring off any stains
Cool, have you seen the Polo Ralph Lauren version, think the PRL version over the past few years here and there are basically just peacoat with shearling through out, probably shorter than this but also looks pretty dramatic
Yes, they do great versions. Obviously not the same quality in the Polo ones, but a lovely cut
A thing of beauty and you model it so well. Did you include its weight? That’s one of the attractions for me. Heavy coats = Warmth! Also happy someone brought up the question about the thinking that went into the length. Have you noticed how length influences the choice we make in choosing coats?
I enjoy the ‘deconstruction’ features/photography that follow PS product launches which enlighten readers about the making process. There is enough journalism here and I doubt very much that you will give up writing for E-commerce! However, please do not forget that magazine launch!
(*There is a more pertinent question that nobody has ever asked you … and I am afraid to ask).
Please do ask the more pertinent question? Happy to hear it
Thanks Simon, It was a wellbeing query: what happens to PS if you were ever, God forbid, be indisposed? I struggled constantly with a similar fear when I published a now defunct magazine. I hasten to add that I had no staff nor financial backing. I was the sole financier and mastermind. I constantly worried about burnout.
The more reason for feeling severely handicapped in employing more hands or planning beyond each issue. Eventually I had to wind the paper up. Of course, I can see that PS is on solid footing, but it will be reassuring to know that you do not have these worries about your health, continuity and eventually succession. BB
That’s lovely of you to be concerned, thank you.
A few things guard against that. First, since the beginning of the year I’ve had some people working for me – some to run the shop and the social media, and some chipping in with articles (such as Tony). Others could also I’m sure help out if it came to that. Second, I am always working three weeks ahead of myself in terms of copy, so I could be bedridden for that period at least and there would be no interruption to the service.
In terms of succession, no need there – I plan to carry on doing this for as long as people want me to!
So lovely to hear Simon. I hope you know you enrich our lives greatly.
Thank you.
Beautiful looking coat….good luck with it..perfect for the fall and winter seasons…it’s in the 30s right now in NYC…peace
Simon,
Beautiful coat, luxurious and surely an investment piece that will last those that buy a long time.
Mind if I ask what the boots/shoes are in the opening photo?
Graham
Thank you.
They are the Cranleigh from Edward Green. Also seen in the Wax Walker post here, among other places
I’ve stopped subscribing to The Rake magazine because Wei Koh couldn’t do what you are able to pull off so magically: you are not here to sell. You are here to advise. That you are now selling is a natural outgrowth of that “advising.” I don’t pay for Permanent Style; it still feels far more public service than e-commerce. Because it legitimately is. And while I’ve learned some things from Wei over the years (really one thing, in particular, about the athleisure realm), PS is an actual community that has not been replicated elsewhere. I just bought an Orvis Bostonian shearling that is probably of similar quality to this coat. I bought it new, on Ebay, with tags attached. The original price was $3500 (UK). I paid $360 (best offer on Ebay). It was shipped from England last month. It arrived with a few stains on it [it’s at the leather cleaners now]. The seller refunded me everything but the shipping costs [I didn’t ask him to, but that was his resolution]. The coat is remarkable. And I got one Hell of a deal on it. But your coat (on offer here) is lovely. It’s rich. It’s a coat of real substance. And it’s great value for money. Keep them coming: I hope to buy something from you someday, but I cherish the ongoing education.
Thank you Wes
Wanted to add that you accomplish what Gatsby could not: (as Nick describes it in the novel) – “Personality” being “an unbroken series of successful gestures.”
Wonderful
This reminds me of the original J Peterman, which offered the extraordinary to the knowing, with a story and be at no discount but without the need to hunt and arrange for an unusual product. Yes, the price point feels different, more focus, more story, but somehow similar.
Thanks Ben. Having not owned any original Peterman, and having only seen the version on Seinfeld, I still take it as a big compliment.
The extraordinary for the knowing
Hello Simon. What t-shirt you’re wearing under the denim shirt? You’re wearing a softer t-shirt under your chambray shirt? Will a Real McCoy’s T-Shirt Athletic L/S loop-wheel work as well under the denim shirt or as a stand alone piece worn the jeans. Greetings!
I wear a Hamilton & Hare undershirt under shirts like these. The heavier tees are great, but not so much under knitwear and shirts unless they’re very loose
I rarely comment, but after reading Steves’ comment I wanted to contrast his opinion with my own. I think the work Simon does (not only making designs that you want available, but also making a really noticeable effort in terms of sourcing the best materials/producers) is what really sets PS out in my eyes, and I also feel that I learn more from these articles. I have only bought a few PS items mind you – mainly due to Brexit – but the ones I have are outstanding. I could understand the comment if the products were shoehorned in, but I look at them as a work of passion that is shared with the readers (usually at a bargain too).
These articles are my favourites ones.
Ps. The coat also looks great in the new colour.
Cheers.
Thank you Erik, lovely to hear
Hi Simon, this is an incredible product and collaboration. One question about shearling occurs to me. Is it easy to wear knitwear beneath a shearling jacket, or in that case does the wool on wool mean the jacket is not the easiest to get on/off and could that lead to deterioration of the structure of the knitwear underneath e.g. a Shetland sweater? That for me would be a pretty standard combination in the cold winter, and I’m just thinking with a viscose-lined overcoat that is never an issue, but I did wonder here given the woollen interior of the jacket. Thanks, David
Hey David,
Thank you. There’s a bit of stickiness when you put it on, but not too much, and no it won’t really affect the knitwear
Thanks Simon. That’s good to know!
Simon I really appreciate reading your articles. As for this year Crompton, the color is very deceptive. I’m not sure what the coat actually looks like. I purchased last year’s olive shearling, which I love, and am now thinking about buying this years coat. The problem I have is that your photos don’t really come close to the skin in the last picture. Whereas last year photos were pretty much spot on I’m not sure of what I’d be getting given the stark difference in the photos.
Are you able to take any or do you have any shoots that actually look like the skin in the last photo? Personally, I really like the “dark bitter brown” as you describe the color in the article. The color is stunning. I’m sure the rich brown skin shown in the last photo is also nice but there isn’t any photos of you wearing the coat that look like that photo.
Help!
Sorry Mike, and no I don’t have any photos like that. Cromford might be able to send you one or two of a finished coat, if that helps.
It is a very wearable dark brown – I wouldn’t say it was a risky colour at all
Hi Simon,
The current cold weather snap had me thinking about gaps in my winter wardrobe.
While my coats/jackets/blazers will continue to evolve over the next few years and I do have two of your Donegals, I lack any coats for this sort of weather.
Your thoughts in terms of which is warmer out of the shearling vs the Cabourn Parka would be appreciated. Or anything else you think might be as warm/warmer?
Many thanks.
Yash
The parka will be warmer, but the shearling would be great for this type of weather – certainly down to freezing. The bigger difference is probably style, with the parka being more casual.
That’s great Simon. I guess I can use the Shearling and layer to achieve a more comparable warmth to the parka?
Very useful. Many thanks.
Yash
Yes I think so Yash. It was -2 this Sunday morning and I was walking in Richmond Park wearing the shearling, a T-shirts and a cashmere roll neck. It was great
That sounds like a great outfit! There is such pleasure to be had in having a decent selection of clothes to be then able to select what is appropriate by weight, material etc etc to achieve the perfect set of clothes for the activity.
I am slowly getting there but still some way off.
For example:
My own Sunday Morning walk on Hampstead Heath was jeans, a fine knit merino roll neck, fairaisle cardigan, cashmere scarf, Crombie style wool overcoat and a charcoal grey (almost black) A&S Lambskin beanie type hat with furry trim I got the year before last. On the feet was an old pair of comfy walking type shoes.
What I felt was lacking were some good boots and a parka type coat. Will do some research on PS for both, especially the boots. Also missing actually was a properly decent set of lined gloves. I do some lovely unlined suede ones which are more useful generally.
Sorry Simon,
Where approximately on the scale of warmth between the parka and the shearling would a “proper” duffle be?
Thanks,
Yash
Well, a duffel is warm but largely a shell – a lot of the warmth comes from what’s underneath it, and of course you can fit a lot in being that roomy. If a shearling or a parka were that long they would definitely be warmer on their own
Very useful.
I love the Cabourn Parka’s but what do you think of Canada Goose quality? I know they are meant to be warm but not sure if they are just overpriced designer stuff.
I don’t think they are from what I know – not very overpriced that is. But I’d prefer a ventile or at least partly cotton outer really.
Thanks Simon
Of all parkas I have owned, my Canada Goose was functionally the best, really like a cozy sleeping bag you could walk around in. I only sold mine because the brand had become sort of a “Gangster” status symbol in my country, with lots of fakes around. If they had a model without the bright patch, i would happily wear it again.
Hi Felix,
That’s good to know re the warmth and functionality.
Sort of the same problem here in the UK. The image is less gangster though and more “wannabe” trying too hard.
It was once a secret in the know brand – not so much now.