Other than buying stuff, there are no obvious ways to recognise the best brands, best artisans and best-dressed people in our industry.
In order to try and provide an avenue for this, I am introducing a small set of awards that seek to reward such people - partly decided by a panel and partly by you, the readers.
The awards will cover style, design, and important-but-often-ignored things like customer service.
I am asking for nominations and votes in the comments to this post over the next two weeks. The winners will be announced on January 17th.
And we're doing it now because frankly, it annoys me how many 'best of the year' lists are put together in as early as November and published in December.
Below are the five awards.
In each case, I have tried to be specific and structured in the description of what they are for - again, I hate vague awards without a real methodology.
Two of the awards are pure votes by you, the readers. Two require nominations from you, to be judged by a panel. And one is an entirely personal award from myself.
Please only nominate and vote once per category, in the comments below. And feel free to leave a reason for your choice.
1 Brand of the year
Please nominate the brand that you think has been the best in 2017 in terms of:
- Innovation (bringing original design to our market) and/or
- Functionality (introducing items that have become reliable, versatile wardrobe staples)
A shortlist of three brands will be created based on nominations, and the winner selected by a panel.
2 Best customer experience of the year
Please vote for the brand that you think has been the best in 2017 for:
- Customer service
- In-store / online experience
- Quality of brand (worn well, not fallen apart etc)
3 Best-dressed man of the year
Please nominate one person you think has been the most stylishly dressed in 2017 in terms of:
- Classic style relevant to a modern age
A shortlist of five people will be created based on nominations, and the winner selected by a panel. The person must have sufficient online or social-media presence for the panel to see examples of how they dress.
4 Best media of the year
Please vote for the media outlet you think has been the best in 2017 in terms of:
- Quality, substantial content
- Originality and creativity
This can be any form of media: a newspaper, a magazine, a website, a blog, or an Instagram account. But an ongoing production - not a book.
5 Bespoke artisan of the year
This last award is very personal. Rating of bespoke artisans is so subjective, and it's highly unlikely anyone will have used enough in a single year to make a broad comparison.
This will therefore simply be an award I give to one artisan I have used in 2017, and found particularly rewarding.
Please note that neither myself nor Permanent Style can be nominated for or win any awards.
The panel for these inaugural awards will comprise myself, Michael Drake and Jamie Ferguson.
Enter your votes and nominations below in the comments (together with a short reason if you wish) and do specify which apply to which award.
Thanks for all your thoughts and contributions. I think the people and brands we highlight will appreciate our recognition of their hard work.
Simon
1) brand of the Year: DRAKES
2) there is none
3) Yasuto Kamoshita
Aggressive, I like it Ale!
Thanks
Best dressed man is sartoriomerta(khalid nasr).
His manner of dressing is too aggressively styled and fitted for my tastes.
Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery — best customer experience.
Explanation: Audie’s knowledge and suggestions are invaluable, and her amicability makes shopping at Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery an enjoyable experience — in contrast, shopping in other high-end shops typically intimidates me.
Ethan Newton — best dressed man.
Thanks. Do feel free to vote/nominate in all categories if you want to
I would agree with you there the whole experience in A&S is great from product, shop layout and ambience through to customer service. Emily and connor are also very welcoming too.
Yes the Customer experience of walking into that shop is second to none! I haven’t actually bought anything from there but each time I go there I like being in the shop so I guess it’s only a matter of time before I get the card out!
plus 1 for the Haberdashery. Audie was so helpful last spring when i was choosing a tie and scarf. spent a huge amount of time with me and was wonderful. Although i cannot afford bespoke, i now feel a certain loyalty to Anderson and Sheppard
3) best dressed: Lapo Elkann
5) [my personal choice] Maestro Fernando Alessi
Thanks – interesting on Lapo!
As mentioned the artisan category is not open to votes/nominations, but thanks anyway.
I know. That’s why I put it in parentheses 🙂
but I wanted to pay tribute to my tailor.
1) Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery
2) Drake’s
3) Andreas Weinås
4) The Rake
1) Chad Prom
Mostly on innovation and style.
2) Stoffa (Agyesh)
Ordering my jacket through Stoffa has been the best experience in recent years. The whole process have been managed very well by Agyesh. He was such a pleasure to deal with, meetings were very pleasant. I also value the communication very highly. In my opinion they do not hide behind being ‘craftsmanship’ brand to justify the poor communication/organization. Also styling/editorials/photography are superb.
1. NA
2. Dominic at Edward Sexton
3. Alexander Kraft
4. Hodinkee.com
5. NA
I have to mention 2 brands which I feel fit into category 1 & 2. Both are available worldwide, but I am being slightly London biased.
Thom Sweeney RTW – Bruton Place – I have been a bespoke customer before for my wedding suit however have been in to the Bruton Place store on a number of occasions. The quality of the items has been fantastic and I am massive fan of their knitwear (especially the chunky shawls made by Lockie) I am also reminded of your article the other day “brands need to talk about product” – the staff (in my experience) are very knowledgeable about the construction of the product, cloth etc. I even had a conversation the other day about the Loro Piana yarn used in their merino knitwear. Most of the items are all functional, versatile and on occasion add a luxury element onto casual items – Wool Puffer Jackets, Cashmere blend bombers etc. For those based in New York – I visited the new store a few weeks ago and it looks to be just as good.
2nd- Gaziano & Girling Saville Row – I don’t need to mention the quality. The customer service is always excellent but there is something more important. I have visited many of the high end shoe stores in & around Mayfair. I believe, in my experience none are more welcoming than G&G. I have had terrible experiences in John Lobb & Edward Green – slightly snobby if I am honest. G&G staff are incredibly knowledgeable, flexible and are always willing to do that bit extra for their clients.
Thanks Adam. Trying not to be strict, but would you mind saying which category you’d put each in if you had to? Put one in (1) and one (2)
Cheers
Tough because as I said I think they deserve mention in both categories.. if I had a gun to my head I would say, Thom Sweeney for Brand (1) due to the fact they are offering high quality RTW staples that are classic/timeless but with a modern take, not just tailoring. (as mentioned above – bombers, puffers etc) and Gaziano & Girling for Best customer experience. (2)
Completely agree re Edward Green.
I have numerous pairs of their shoes as I like the product.
However, i always shudder before I enter the shop as I too find the staff awkward and somewhat arrogant
They had a Portuguese lady working there who was excellent but otherwise not an enjoyable experience
Yes the shoes are great but the staff are like an Ealing comedy caricatures in terms of how they treat Customers! The product (shoes) are great but it’s a time capsule of how customer service was conducted in Britain before American focussed customer care tactics came into big department stores and they became less sniffy about dealing with people.
I’m not dismissing your experience Robert but I must say that I’ve always had exactly the opposite experience at Edward Green. I actively look forward to going in and having a chat with them and usually end up taking longer than expected due to all the chitchat. Ironically the two guys that I find great in there are the two Roberts with whom you share a name. Perhaps they don’t think that the store is big enough for 3 Roberts at once :).
(I confess that I haven’t been in for 6 months so not sure if both Roberts are still there.)
1. Christian Kimber – great value, well designed and superb use of colour. Everything from formal shoe to sneakers, scarves to pocket squares, leather wear and soon to be released clothing range.
2. No Man Walks Alone – always generous with time for answers to questions and when small things have gone wrong with shipping or orders .. been humble in apologies and more than made up for it. Greg runs a ‘ship tight’ when it comes to CS. Well curated and user friendly website.
3. Steve Calder. Less well know outside of Oz but I think carries both the classic and casual style with aplomb.
4. Hodinkee. Really well thought out and interesting articles. High quality videos. Good e commerce site.
1) Orlebar Brown – never though about buying well made, tailored beachwear Since I came across OB, however, their products have become absolute wardrobe staples throughout summer.
2) Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery – mentioned by a few already and I can only agree. Even if I don’t want to buy something I enter the shop to have a quick, informative chat.
Great blog Simon, much appreciated. Keep up the valuable work in 2018!
1. Antonio Meccariello RTW. I have only experience with his bespoke service, but he has RTW production which he expanded this year and it is of very high quality.
2. Maximilian Mogg. The customers get very professional customer experience directly from Maximilian himself and the In-Store experience of the Neukölln store is for sure something unusual.
3. Voxsartoria
4. Croquissartoriaux (instagram)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVOwC0UnfPE/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZLMxfjHRLt/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba3XJKMnYgk/
Thanks you very much Hristo, I obviously don’t have my place here, but I’m really honoured you’ve thought of me. 2018 will be a year for new collaborations for my sketches. Let’s hope you all will enjoy them
1) + 2) Ok so over 2017 I have used and have been extremely impressed with the new NY brand Articles of Style. Although not truly bespoke, these guys have produced high quality custom garments for a great price, and are trying something new with technology to try and make buying quality custom clothing as accessible as possible. They are filling an interesting niche, focusing on classic american menswear. I think they are innovative in their designs and use of great fabrics, especially hopsack fabrics which are a personal favourite of mine for adding subtle textures into one’s wardrobe.
They’re alway on hand to provide help and advice and they are always extremely welcoming at their showroom in NY. The quality is great and I’ve had no problems so far. All in all I have been very impressed with what they have achieved for the price.
3) This is very difficult but I think I settle on Justus Frederic Hansen (IG Justusf_Hansen). He’s a young guy who I think is really helping to bring a tailored look to a new generation of young men, combining sartorial class on one hand, and casual elegance on the other. Mr Raro and Massimo Pirrone of PM Eleganza also deserve a mention for just looking on point all the time.
4) Parisian Gentleman. For the excellent blog and fantastic book releases.
3) Douglas Cordeaux
1. Best brand: THE ARMOURY – 2017 has got to be one of the most prolific years at the Armoury. Every product that they have introduced this year makes so much sense – from the gurkha trousers to the Real McCoys collaborations, not to mention the house shoes line! It seems so difficult to stay original in the classic menswear world nowadays, yet the boys at the Armoury have outdone themselves!
2. Best customer service: NO MAN WALKS ALONE – Greg and Kyle have been very supportive, and my drop-in visit in November was one of the, if not the, most enjoyable shopping experiences I’ve had. They were willing to let me try on a bunch of things and offered excellent style advice. I’m hard pressed to think of a better experience shopping both online and offline.
3. Best dressed man of the year: ETHAN NEWTON – an endless source of inspiration.
4. Best media of the year: I assume you can’t award yourself Simon, so I’ll nominate THE RAKE.
First of all, what a legend Pete for giving me a mention! I’m honoured!
Speaking as a store owner here i’m a little biased. But here goes:
1. Chad Prom – the most comfortable RTW garments i’ve ever experienced.
2. Masons (new luxury menswear store) in Melbourne
3. Tough – Nami Nguyen @nami.man for his versatility and niche amongst the noise of #Menswear
4. Plaza Uomo
5. Also tough. But loving Sciamat – haven’t had anything made yet but met them at Pitti in June. Such great guys and amazing product/design.
2 Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery
4 Shoe Snob
Hi Simon,
For now I can only work out 1 and 2:
1. Brand – Anglo Italian – a perfect mix of styles. I am waiting on my first commission right now but the customer service, advice and knowledge provided by Alex was spot on and the product looks just right.
I know this is an option for category no 2, but the brand is a bold attempt to provide Neapolitan tailoring direct in the UK.
(My second choice would be Drake’s)
2. Customer experience – Trunk – probably the best store in London, always a pleasure to stop by and almost inevitably buy something, but even if not buying great and warm customer service. I always find an excuse to be in Marylebone to visit their two stores.
(Again my second choice would be Drake’s!)
Keep up the good work,
Matthew
I agree on AIC. However, have you found the lead times for delivering products to be very long? I’ve been waiting for 3x the suggested time.
Simon, good idea.
1. Thom Sweeney
2. Thom Sweeney. (Stoffa/Saman Amel/PJT all good but maybe have a little way to go to refine their products and/or customer service. they are relatively new brands after all)
3. Dag and Saman of Saman Amel. Douglas Cordeaux
4. Media offerings seem lacking right now (for example Interesting that a few readers picked Hodinkee which seems to lack any critical perspective and should disclose its partnerships/sponsorships with brands but willing to be corrected).
Yes, 4 is very problematic as most media are disgustingly full with semi-hidden infomercials. I am not sure if this category makes sense on the long run.
1. Norwegian Rain
First time in 100 years, when you can wear rain gear, and still look good!
2) Trunk- by some distance; and
3) Jake Grantham – effortless charm.
Brand: DRAKE’S – If we’re looking at a brand in the round, in terms of consistent innovative and quality products then I think they’re streets ahead. There is an identifiable ‘Drake’s aesthetic’ across their varied products, but the thing which unites them all is the attention to detail and high standards which go in to the manufacturing. I have scarves, shirts, ties, gloves and knitwear from Drake’s and the oldest items still look as good as the newest.
Customer service: LUCA FALONI – Slightly controversial choice as it’s still basically an online-only brand. However the service is undeniably top notch. Very liberal returns policy and you’re always guaranteed a very rapid response over email, usually from Luca himself. The business is still small enough that every customer is valued and taken very seriously. I noticed that my first order arrived in a box with ‘Welcome’ printed on the opening flap, whereas the box containing my second order said ‘Welcome back’. A small and arguably irrelevant detail of course, but a nice little touch! Ditto their branded Pastiglie Leone candies, which are delicious.
Best dressed: I’m not really Instagram-savvy enough to answer this one with any authority!
Media: This is quite tricky as well, as there are still gaping holes in quality menswear media (PS excepted of course…). THE RAKE probably gets my vote. Mr Porter’s ‘The Journal’ used to be consistently interesting as well, but the quality seemed to fall off a cliff in 2017.
1. Private White V.C.
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Alexander Kraft (most inspiring)
4. As PS can’t be nominated: Parisian Gentleman and most of its (former) contributors. You know who you are.
5. Sartoria Corcos (I know it’s not open for a vote but I’ll stick with Kotaro for years to come)
Best brand: Drakes
I rarely fall in love or stick to just one brand but there is nothing better right now for me then Drakes Ties!! Wether the ties are in wool, cashmere, knit or silk they are just great. Muted nice colors, and they so are great for completing a high-low dressed style that i really love. With that said im not a big fan of their animal printed ties. For me they are circus ties but someone must like them and are buying them since they keep on making them.
Best dressed man:
Andreas Weinås and this i not becouse im from Sweden. I think he manages to combine a classic style with modern style in a really nice way. Many influencers out there manage to look like fat old men (some of them are) since they seem to forget that clothes are supposed to bring out your strengths and not your weaknesses. I think Andreas has understood that well and wears clothes that do just that. He could take down the waistline on his pants a bit but this is purely a subjective matter and as i have understood he likes it high on the hips.
1. Anglo – Italian for their unique style. Their customer service is good when IN STORE. However keeping you abreast of errors and managing customer expectations is left VERY lacking.
2. Anderson & Sheppard. It’s already been mentioned but Audie is the pinnacle of service.
3. Andreas Weinas. Constant form of inspiration.
4. If I could say PS I would, but I guess failing that it would be Die Workwear for his very detailed, education and image heavy posts.
1) Drake’s – because this was the year they really turned from a tie manufacturer into a fully-fledged worldwide brand with a clear, consistent aesthetic (the staple trousers, knitwear and tailoring etc).
2) Anglo-Italian – specifically because of Jake, even though I’ve only ended up buying a tie so far he provided the best customer service I’ve encountered – and it is my favourite tie.
3) Aleks Cvetovic – not because I would dress like him, but because from what I’ve seen he has a coherent sense of style that manages to somehow be simultaneously youthful, relevant, classic and unique.
4) N/A – would be Permanent Style, but since I’m not allowed to choose that I won’t nominate anyone.
I’ve tried to specifically focus on 2017 rather than the lifetime achievement style award which this could easily become – which for the record would be 1) E. Tautz 2) Trunk 3) Patrick Grant 4) The Rake.
Is is too late to change my 2) from Anglo-Italian to Blackhorse Lane?
I’m ashamed to say I’d actually forgotten about them before I saw someone else nominate them for brand of the year below. As bad as I feel to take it away from a brand who also deserve it, I feel like Blackhorse Lane haven’t been highlighted anywhere near enough whereas Anglo Italian seem to be doing very well.
My whole customer experience has been absolutely fantastic from start to finish – from buying them straight off out of their Walthamstow factory; to David’s detailed advice to a raw denim novice on everything from sizing to washing; to having them altered in front of me while I waited; to the lifetime repair policy I have yet to take advantage of.
Furthermore, they are simply better than any other jeans I have owned. Obviously the Kurabo Selvedge is top quality and they have worn beautifully, but it is matched by the tailoring inspired finishing such as the much cleaner one-piece fly construction which is really quite impressive (see picture below from the Rake website).
1. Gaziano & Girling
2. Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery
3. Alexander Kraft
4. https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/
1. Atelier Saman Amel – To me, they qualify on several of the points here, but to highlight one their mtm knitwear program.
2. Stòffa – Meeting Agyesh or Nick in person as well as emailing their customer service team is always an enjoyable experience. The willingness to go the extra mile or kindly refuse bulk orders until patterns have been perfected shows they truly value the product and the customer experience of said product.
3. Noboru Kakuta – Such a great inspiration whenever a picture pops up, understated pieces and outfits put together, mostly in navy and grey, but always impeccable fit. He has gained the nickname “The Master” after all.
4. Manolo.se – For many interesting articles as well as the always lovely friday inspiration feature.
4.
1. Anglo Italian – a very welcome and stylish addition to London
2. Alex and Jake at Anglo Italian for their time, enthusiasm and knowledge – just ahead of the lovely Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery
1. Anglo Italian – Great products, modern but timeless design and amazing customer service
4. Die, Workwear!
Anglo Italian are inconsistent unforntately. Jake seems nice enough but Alex i find arrogant. Too much focus on image and not enough on substance
Hi;
Best dressed man is from instagram: Andreas Weinås
1. Drakes – excellent people, products and stability year over year.
2. Ring Jacket – excellent service in store, through social media and other support that is normally outside of their normal business. Really exceeds customer expectations.
3. Kamoshita-San
4. Hodinkee – in-comparable!
1) Drakes
2) Can I vote for Drakes again? If not then Luca Faloni.
3) Aleks Cvetkovic
4)Ethan Wong (streetxsprezza)
Brand – Slowear
Customer Experience – A&S Hab is the gold standard
Icon – Luigi Solito – for a short chap he always looks the business. Please don’t vote for Luca Rubinacci or Alex Kraft (who apparently pays to raise his profile and comes across as arrogant and materialistic)
Media – Esquire. Definitely not The Rake which is puff for brands and not honest such as PS
Great job Simon. Keep it up
1 Brand of the year
– J.M. Weston
– Except that I love the 180 they continuously offer new designs of their products without losing touch to their heritage nor to modern, classic style.
– I think the quality for the money is very good
2 Best customer experience of the year
– J. Panther Luggage Co.
– I bought the Ruc Courier in 2017 and had a few questions before. Johnny himself (the founder and designer) answered every eMail pretty fast and in a genuinely nice and friendly way. One of the best customer services I experienced so far.
3 Best-dressed man of the year
– I nominee Adam Rogers for his unique and personal style
4 Best media of the year
– Instagram: Jkf_man
– Maybe he is to strong related to permanent style but his instagram account shows a broad variety of classic men style, which I like very much.
1. Calder – great contemporary designs and good quality.
2. No Man Walks Alone – Greg is knowledgeable and a very nice man.
3. Shuhei Nishiguchi – original, tasteful, great proportions and good personality.
4. Plaza Uomo – The only magazine that focuses on great menswear, without going too much into lifestyle et c.
5. Pommella Napoli – great quality, knowledge and service.
1. Stòffa
The perfect balance between inovation, functionality and design. Every line, pocket and fabric feels thoughtfully created and nothing feels rushed.
2. Saman Amel
A wonderful set up with two of the most service minded people in the business. Saman and Dag are in my opinion fantastic at both inspire through their own style and at the same time understanding the customer´s personal preferences.
3. Michael Hill
I dont think I´ve ever met a man that felt more natural in his own clothes than Michael Hill. His style feels like an extension of his personality which is perhaps what it´s all about.
4. Hodinkee
Watches are one of my big passions in life and I think Hodinkee took watch journalism to a new level this year.
1. Drake’s (Champion and leader in classic men’s style that’s relevant in our modern age).
2. The Armoury (Open book of information and very welcoming to new comers).
3. Alexander Kraft (Personal inspiration for sophistication with a simplified colour palette).
4. Die, Workwear! (A nice mix of articles ranging from basics to new shops to in-depth history).
1 / Anderson and Sheppard
2 / No Man Walks Alone
3 / Patrick Grant
4 / wellwornwornwell for the quality of writing despite the American centric audience
5 / None
Thanks for the kind words, Gus. Let me know if you ever make it to Atlanta. Drinks on me.
Brand of the year: As many people have nominated before me, Drakes. I’ve been buying Drakes for the last five years and have been delighted to see it grow to what it is now. The ‘Drakes Look’ is so distinctive yet simple, and it is also quite attainable. Their new Easyday range makes it that bit more accessible now too. I’ve just ordered a MTO jacket with them as well and had a lovely experience in store, so will put them down for customer experience of the year as well!
Best dressed man: & every year… G. Bruce Boyer.
Best media: there’s a fella on Instagram called the.daily.obsessions and I’ve been enjoying his posts immensely. Simple, well thought out casual outfits that you probably wouldn’t look twice at.
I can only vote with any knowledge on numbers 3 and 4.
3. Andreas Weinas
4. The Rake, though it is a far second from Permanent Style
Thank you, Simon, for all your terrific insight into the menswear world, it has helped me greatly in my journey towards being better dressed.
Nice idea
1. Drakes (shan’t elaborate as something of a trend in the comments!).
2. Cubitts glasses – had a good service, very reasonable price point, like the shops (esp Jermyn St) and very happy with product.
3. William Gilchrist – admire his inimitable style built on classics but worn in a very personal/unique way. And seems to live in a different world to the iGents/Pitti crowd (closer to the one I live in I reckon!)
4. Really it has to be you or jkf_man but seeing as these must be out of bounds I will go for Rake Magazine (albeit I reckon the publication is getting a bit tired after its early trailblazing years).
1) Stoffa – while the jackets and trousers get (rightfully) most of the love, the scarves should not be overlooked
2) Dag + Saman (Saman Amel) – the best mix of extreme professionalism and personal
3) Gabriel Oberg Bustad
4) Die, Workwear! – only place where one always “learns” something
1. Anglo-Italian: Great addition to the London menswear scene; they are offering something truly different, with friendly service (even if timeliness of orders is not always a strength), at a fair price and with a really exciting pipeline of new things to come in 2018
2. A&S Haberdashery: Whenever I pass I stop by for a chat and a coffee, and it is often the highlight of my day. So friendly, helpful and knowledgable (Audie of course, but also Emily and Conor). And if anything ever goes wrong with an order they will sort it out without any questions
3. Gabriel Oberg of SkoAB
4. Know I am not meant to nominate anyone but will give a shout out to Joe Morgan, who continues to deliver miracles for me
1. Drake’s (I really didn’t want to put this because the whole Drake’s/Armoury thing is becoming a bit of an exercise in group-think, but their success this year is undeniable.)
2. Trunk Clothiers (have had good experience with Oliver particularly)
3. Yasuto Kamoshita
4. “Die, Workwear!” is absolutely brilliant (and – whisper it – deals with clothes that are a bit more within reach than PS). I really can’t understand why anyone would choose The Rake.
Hi Simon,
I might be a tad french biased :
1) Pantalons Scavini : https://pantalons-scavini.fr/ super quality RTW trousers by young parisian tailor Julien Scavini (who runs the good blog stiff collar https://stiff-collar.com/ , only in French, sorry)
2) JM Weston their special order service is amazing, you can do almost anything and for less than 1000 € with VAT it’s an almost unbeatable value for money;
3) Mr Yukio Akamine is the most elegant. And besides menswear world, I have no shame to say that Mr Jean-Louis Triaud is stylish as hell even if google image doesn’t make him justice;
4) croquis sartoriaux http://croquissartoriaux.tumblr.com/ also on instagram https://www.instagram.com/croquissartoriaux/?hl=fr
Thank you, Charles, for the stiff-collar.com URL. The blog is pretty interesting! Nice illustrations!
Thank you very much, Charles, really honoured. I’ll try to keep on drawing nice sketches in 2018!
1. Drakes
2. Nomanwalksalone
3. G. Bruce Boyer. A picture of Bruce 10 years ago still looks relevant today.
4. The Rake
5. I know vote, but Ciccio was a real gem
1- Dashing Tweeds, Guy and Holly always welcoming and endlessly inventive.
2- Anglo Italian, Alex and Jake driving forward a focused range. Again always welcoming, even when the dog comes along as well.
3 Michael Browne – no explanation needed.
4 Jackal website (even with the awful name)
5 not sure this is your best idea as it could get a bit pythonesque?
Read and enjoyed your blog from the beginning but I miss the episodic revelations of the early bespoke commissions.
Interesting on the last point Michael, thank you.
one point that the newbies to this stuff need to grasp.
what you wear doesn’t define who you are. who you are defines what you wear.
1. Stoffa
2. Linnégatan no.2
3. Andreas Weinås
4. Manolo.se
1. New & Lingwood. Better price to quality ratio than Drakes and their RtW tailoring comes in longer (and shorter) fitting sizes.
2. Sadly, nothing springs to mind here. I generally find the standard of customer service in many of the high-end clothing retailers in London to be rather poor when compared with those overseas. All too often my interactions with them tend to involve dealing with someone who sounds like Little Lord Fauntleroy and generally conveys the impression that they are doing me a favour by letting me into ‘their’ shop.
3. Yukio Akamine.
4. Die Workwear! As someone else mentioned above, covers a far more accessible and diverse range of clothing than many other online blogs (PS included I’m afraid!). If I could, I’d down-vote The Rake for being little more than a glossy, expensive booklet of advertisements and for assuming anyone with an interest in clothing is a London-based banker with a six figure income.
1 The Elder Statesman – https://elder-statesman.com/ – Cashmere a bit different
2 Tender & Co – http://www.madebytender.com/ – lots of innovation, great and personal customer support
3 Ethan Newton – great combination of casual and formal pieces
4 http://dieworkwear.com/ – besides your great blog
5 Marco Cerrato – best trousers full stop
Hi Simon,
To me, Drakes it s the best brand and Trunk offers the best customer experience.
Anglo italian looks great, but It seems to me that logistics is an issue for them. I comissioned a jacket in october and have no news about them. The y will hopefully improve it and may be next year I will be happy to vote them as the best brand.
Alan See would be the best dressed man.
Cheers,
Best customer service: The Armoury. I had customs problems when I ordered a pair of chinos and they could not have been more helpful.
1 – Fox Brothers
2 – Anderson & Sheppard/Mes Chausettes Rouge (sorry Simon, a dead heat between Audie at A&S and Vincent at MSR – both fantastic/fantastique!)
3 – Prince Charles (a great ambassador for all things bespoke)
4 – Financial Times (‘how to spend it’ supplement)
1) Private White VC
In particular for their jeep coat and moto trench. Exceptional pieces that are functional, unique, and still appropriate for every day wear.
2) Brycelands
It felt more like coming to a gentlemans club. Extremly friendly people with an excellent knowledge about the stuff that they are selling, great selection of unique high quality clothes, and a beautiful place.
3) Kenji Cheung
Nobody wears a three piece suit better than him, but he also looks great in casual vintage clothes.
4) Dieworkwear
Great content covering different aspects about clothing and best policy regarding free stuff (it matters)
3) Andreas Weinås – @andreasweinas: He wears menswear staples in muted colors with an extraordinary contemporary fit!
1) Anglo Italian. Alex and Jake’s new brand/shop is offering an excellent value proposition with a nice product offering. The term “curated” and “edited” are ridiculously overused these days, but they really have put a great deal of thought, heart and soul into their project as well as their personal style. Runner up: Drake’s; Michael Hill and team continue to kill it (especially under Mark Cho’s new ownership).
2) NMWA: Greg, Kyle and team are fantastic (except more trunk shows back in SF PLEASE 😉 Runner up: A&S. Truly a delight to deal with.
3) Jake Grantham is a personal fav here. Runner up: Carlos Castillo and Ethan Newton.
4) PermanentStyle. Oh right ;-). Not a lot of good options here to be honest. While I find a lot of their photo layouts way too fashionable, the Rake is still a fantastic publication and my top choice here
5) I only have a few bespoke pieces, so no comment (however if you ever have a “Bespoke Makers To Avoid” award, I’ve definitely got opinions there 😉
1. Orlebar Brown, probably because I buy more here than any other 1 brand. Shorts, swimwear, towel polos and Logans.
2. Anderson Sheppard Hab, I day dream about getting fully kitted out for the day when I win the lottery here. Truly out of this world service. (I will win the lottery).
3. I’ve googled the nominees as I don’t have Instagram. Noboru Kakuta is the winner!!
4. Mr Porter – The Journal is the only other blog I read other than PS.
1. Luca Faloni
2. A&S Haberdashery
3. Andreas Weinas
4. How to Spend It
1. Bresciani
2. Saman Amel
3. Patrick Grant
4. Plaza Uomo
3/ Ethan Newton. Perfected fit in a challenging torso, crosses over styles/eras/regions effortlessly, and creates genuinely new quality looks.
Although – like most of them Instagram folks – he could drop some cool and smile more.
1) Calder Sartoria (Steve calder) – a really approachable take on menswear and a unique offering for Australia. Innovative in terms of how anti-fashion steve is and driven by quality, cut and fit.
2) Kevin Seah Bespoke (Singapore) – normally I would say Audience @ AS but I did not shop there in 2017. KS had fantastic customer service in store, staffed by passionate menswear aficionados.
3) Alexander Kraft – Mr Kraft’s instagram is like a catalogue of the best menswear from the last 40 years showcased for its timeless wearability & unlimited applications.
4) Croquissartoriaux – a great tongue in cheek perspective on menswear and the cult of fanatics behind it.
1) Brand: Orlebar Brown they’ve nailed the summer time! Although Charles Trywhitt and Cordings wouldn’t be far behind.
2) Customer experience: Crockett & Jones they never get troubled if you ask to try on shoes and try to build a relationship with the customer so it’s hard to think of other shoes. Cheaney wouldn’t be far behind though!
3) man: G. Bruce Boyer since we can’t vote for you i’ll Pick someone who always appears just ‘well dressed’ as you put it.
4)media: Blue Loafers blog he’s very honest about the discount he receives and how this could effect a bias in a review.
5) Artisan: Crompton Leather
Made me a lovely Navy Shearling Overcoat long with a suede finish! Suprisingly efficient for craftspeople, kept me in the loop through every stage of my bespoke experience and very plain speaking about what can and cannot be done. Always responsive to emails and communication.
Thanks. I assume you mean Cromford for number 5!
Haha yes Cromford!
I’ve only very limited experiences in each category: just 1 truly well-made product (Carmina loafers), have only been to one store, have not seen that many photos of well-dressed individuals to pass fair judgment, and read only PS on a regular basis. I’m afraid to nominate as my narrow experience may equate to a bias.
However, the store I’ve been to made such an impression so I’ll nominate for the customer experience category anyway. On a trip to Hong Kong this December, I had the pleasure of visiting both of The Armoury’s stores. All the staff were very professional, and not once did I sense any pressure to buy. I just felt that they were happy to let me make an informed decision and purchase that I would not regret. Special mentions to Alice, who was very patient with me and extremely helpful with her knowledge of each product, and Jan (who I believe is in the second photo above) who took a moment to check on me while I was trying on the Carminas. His trained eye helped me determine once and for all that my feet are, unfortunately, somewhat flat. Looking forward to visiting again and hopefully picking up another beautiful wardrobe staple.
I hope this is fine, Simon. Cheers.
Absolutely, all contributions appreciated, however small. Thanks Joseph
Brand of the year: Stefano Bemer
Best customer experience of the year: Mr. Porter
Best-dressed man of the year: Tommaso Melani
Best media of the year Rake
1) Rifugio Napoli
2) Corthay (Paris)
3) Mr T Ford (who else, seriously?)
4) Firdaus Ahmed Instagram account: favorite menswear illustrator
I have to take issue with the high ratings and “gold star” comments for A&S Haberdashery. Twice now I have ordered trousers in-store to be sent to the US and both times it took over 6 months to receive them. Emails went unanswered until I finally got on Audie’s radar, but not acceptable service and I am also a bespoke customer. Very nice and helpful in store but they drop the ball afterwords. Once is an accident, twice a habit.
Oh and my list
1) Drake’s, their long sleeve polo collaboration with Fedeli are the best!
2) Drake’s, always helpful in store and online a dream, quick fast shipping and any issue they are in immediate contact and have rush shipped for free several times.
3) Alexander Kraft
4) Grey Fox Blog/Instagram
Long time reader, first time commenter from the Philippines. Always been an admirer of your work, Simon.
1. Brand of the Year – Drake’s
Like many that have mentioned it here, I think Drake’s this year has hit it out of the park. Especially with the launch of their full-range line of clothing. It is a contemporary interpretation of classic style that is still relevant to people today in this world that is becoming ever more casual.
2. Best Customer Experience – Baudoin and Lange
This is difficult since due to where I live, I have not been able to visit the shops that most people here have. But based on my experience, the best experience that I’ve had is probably at Baudoin and Lange. I really give high marks to online shops that are able to communicate at a reasonable time and the service and speed that they were able to fulfill my order really went beyond my expectations. I think for in-store, it’s a bit easier since you’re doing face-to-face interactions with the customer. But for online it’s easy to just be slow in communicating and logistics since it’s a bit impersonal.
3. Best-Dressed Man of the Year – Ethan Newton
I think there are so many well-dressed men in the world now, especially with the rise and proliferation of Instagram and blogs when before they were probably more hidden and contemporary gentlemen could only go with books and whatever media they could access in their respective location, which could be difficult if one was not living in a First-World country.
But I think Ethan Newton, epitomizes what “Best-Dressed”, as subjective as that is, is to me. The ability to combine casual and smart styles together in a way that looks almost effortless, which we all know is not, is the primary reason that he gets my vote. This is especially so with a body-type I think most men can relate to as we are not all definitely tall or muscular or good-looking; qualities I think which makes dressing well a bit easier.
4. Media of the Year – Die, Workwear!
I think what Derek is doing at Die, Workwear! has been superb. The information as well as the media that he provides to illustrate his points are always on point and relevant. And although I feel that sometimes this world of classic menswear can be a bit snobbish at times, he has always written in a style that is erudite, while still being straightforward.
Thank you and looking forward to reading more from PS.
1. Combatant Gentlemen.
2. A nice guy on Grailed from whom I bought a Barbour.
3. Derek Guy of Die, Workwear. I’ve never seen a picture of him dressed, but he writes about buying the most stylish clothes.
4. Guide to Bad Taste
3. Kamoshita
4. Derek Guy of Die Workwear, whose writing always conveys his excitement about clothing, and provides a varied palette of ideas and inspiration for what and how to wear things.
1) Atelier Saman Amel
2) Drake’s
3) Ethan Newton, always
4) Hodinkee
1) Drake’s
2) Got to go with the same as above; never had a bad experience buying from them.
3) Without a doubt Ethan Newton. His Instagram is an endless source of inspiration for someone like myself who likes to mix vintage workwear/military pieces with classic tailoring.
1. The Armoury
2. Burberry
3. Nigel Cleaver (Instagram: ignoreatyourperil https://www.instagram.com/ignoreatyourperil/)
1. Drakes
2.Skoaktiebolaget
3.Andreas Weinås
4. Plaza Uomo
1) Drakes
2) no man walks alone
3) prince of Wales
4) na
Brand of the year: Drake’s
Customer Service: Mes Chaussettes Rouges, hands down.
Brand: Drake’s
CS: Oscar Udeshi
BD: Olof 1982
Media: Grey Fox
1. Stoffa (Luca Falconi a close second but Stoffa ticks the innovation box).
2. Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery (again with Luca Falconi snapping at their heels, but A&S win on sheer variety of products).
3. No interest or knowledge in relation to this category.
4. Probably Hodinkee but really nothing comes comes close to PS.
1. Gaziano & Girling – Maybe not specifically for only 2017, but for how they have shook up the traditional and quite conservative classic shoe industry in England, both in terms of RTW/MTO and bespoke.
2. Isetan Men’s – Japanese are often great at customer service, and Isetan Men’s has maybe not the most knowledgeable staff in all departments, but everyone are super friendly and very caring about their customers.
3. Yohei Fukuda – Always looks impeccable.
4. Shoegazing (Shoegazing.se/English) – Great source of shoe knowledge, very varied both in terms of type of content and topics covered.
1 Brand of the year
Drakes
2 Best customer experience of the year
The Armoury
3 Best-dressed man of the year
Yukio Akamine
(and admiration for the style of Takahiro Osaki, Kentaro Nakogomi and Mark Cho)
4 Best media of the year
If Permanent Style cannot get a vote then I enjoy the “Die, Workwear!” site
P.S. I know we can’t vote for artisans but Liverano, G & G bespoke and Yohei Fukuda deserve praise.
1: Private White (runner up – Drakes)
2: Saman Amel (runner up – Hans Allde)
3: Andreas Weinås (runner ut – Ethan Newton)
4: Manolo (runner up – Plaza Uomo)
A tough set of categories Simon, so many options to chose from. And coming from Melbourne in Australia, is lovely to have this issue, really shows the growth and quality of the local offering. So here goes my two cents
1) Brand: Christian Kimber. As well as being such a lovely guy, really appreciate what Christian has brought to the market. Innovative, quality and practical shoe designs, as well as fantastic accessories and now moves into clothing. But most of all, nominating Christian and his label for the work of creating a truly Melbournian and Australian aesthetic, capturing local casual style rather than simply importing.
2) Customer Experience: another great guy, but also one of the gems of suiting experience, with Steve Calder and Calder Sartoria. One of the people who really works with you to create the garment, look, feel etc, that you want, as well as takes how you, as the customer, engage with his products seriously. Customer centric really the best descriptor. Always fantastic to engage with, whether when actually commissioning new pieces or simply to chat, and critically anytime something doesn’t quite work out or there is an issue, Steve is always completely on top of it to sort things out. Can’t ask more at all.
3) Best dressed: so many options to chose, but trying to stick a bit local, will also put a vote in for Nami Nguyen @nami.man. Love how he can pull off different approaches to looks and certain styles, while adding that little bit to keep him different. Not just another peacock, but his own sense and approach.
Brand of the year: Chad Prom
Best Dressed man: Jonathan Edwards
Bespoke Artisan: Eduardo De Simone
Customer Service: Steve Calder; Chrsitian Kimber
Both make you feel at home, love to sit down and have a chat and go out of their way to accommodate you, leave you with a positive impression and experience.
Blog: dieworkwear
Brand: Chad Prom
Best on instagram: cazjl
1. Drake’s is hard to look past here.
2. I would want to say Linnégatan 2, but they are a store rather than a brand. If that’s not OK, I would say Private White V.C.
3. Andreas Weinås
4. Plaza Uomo
Fine on number 2…
1. Drakes
2. SEH Kelly
3. Bruce Boyer
4. Die, Workwear!
(5. Nicholas Templeman- bespoke shoemaker)
1. Chad Prom
2 . Stoffa
3. Andreas Weinås!
4. The Rake
5 –
1) Drakes – It´s my new “go to” brand for RTW button down shirts, trousers – I think their clothes are ooking quite aesthetic.
2) I´ve received excellent customerservice from Drakes (Kamila) – online experience. And I have some old ties and scarfs which still are looking fine
3) Andreas Weinås
4) danish blog – den velklædte mand – denvelklaedtemand.dk/
1. Drake’s
2. Drake’s
3. Bruce Boyer
4. Hoodinkee
Hi Simon,
It was a pleasure to meet you earlier whilst in Graham Browne and many thanks for your advice.
My nominations as follows:
1) Brand of the year – Luca Faloni
2) Best customer service of the year – Private White VC
3) Best-dressed man of the year – Alexander Kraft
4) Best media of the year – The Rake
Keep up the good work.
Stuart
Nice to meet you too Stuart – good choice in the navy!
1. Brand of the year
Saman Amel – a constant source of inspiration by pushing the boundaries within classic menswear and a joy to deal with.
2. Best customer experience of the year
Drakes Clifford Street
3 Best-dressed man of the year
Ethan Newton – simply a great guy with great sense of style
4. Best media of the year
Die Workwear – always a pleasure to read a substantial blog with relevant articles.
5. Best artisan of the year
Sartoria Corcos – Kotaro Miyahira
Best dressed man is paulluxsartoria
1. Hèrmes.
2. Mes chaussettes rouges.
3. Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo
4. Die, workwear.
5. Corcos.
Brand of the year: The Armoury (Particularly like their collaborations)
Best customer experience of the year: Saman Amel
Best-dressed man of the year: Ethan Newton
Best media of the year: Die, workwear!
2. Equus Leather:
Promptly answered queries and updates on ordered items when delays may be expected.
3. Wei Koh,
for looking absolutely comfortable in what he may be wearing.
4. Hodinkee
Best brand: Zegna
Round the board fantastic products with excellent materials.
(Drake’s would be my runner up)
Best customer experience:
Cheaney shoes – in particular covent garden store. Not the most expensive or greatest of shoes but well made nontheless, excellent customer serivce. Friendly, polite, no snobishness and offered me a drink!
Best dressed:
Simon crompton 😉
Best media: The Rake
1) Brand of the year – Private White VC
This is a new one to me in the year, their style is spot on for me, the quality of the pieces are almost universally excellent and they’re pretty reasonable too.
2) Best customer service of the year – wow, this is tough.
It’s probably Drake’s for me, but this is really hard as the folks at Bennett Winch, Private White VC and Crockett’s (Saville Row) have been exceptional to me in the year.
3) Best-dressed man of the year – can’t comment
4) Best media of the year – The Rake
1) The Armoury – great service, incredible selection and never standing still
2) Mr Porter – I know it’s mass online, but they are always so easy to work with, info online is abundant, returns are a breeze, packaging is great as is speed of delivery. In a world of subpar they buck the trend and always provide a happy experience.
3) Manolo Costa – He always makes ridiculous faces in pictures, but his style is spot on (for me)
4) Tie between The Rake and Hodinkee – excellent, always super informative
1. Crockett & Jones – the nexus of form, function, quality and value is my brand of the year.
2. Budd was my best customer experience of the year. Very friendly and helpful shop manager.
3. Pep Guardiola always looks cool and relaxed.
4. The Weekend FT.
1) STOFFA
2) SAMAN AMEL
3) CHAD PROM
1 – Anglo Italian
2 – Anglo Italian
3 – Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis (jointly)
4 – The Rake
1) Brand: Bennett Winch – that is quality and inspiration!
2) Customer Exp: Trunk – flawless
4) Best Media: FT (How to Spend it)
Finally – well done on your 10-years. You deserve an award. Most informative media anywhere! Congrats.
Thanks man, that means a lot
Thank you MDR, Happy New Year!
Best brand: Drakes. Everything is of great quality with just enough “twist on classic styling to make them a staple
Best Customer Experience: Orlebar Brown, especially the ladies in the small Royal exchange store.
Best Dressed Man: Adrien Sauvage. Great to see him back in London before Christmas
Best Media: As we are not allowed to nominate PS I will abstain
2) Sid Mashburn – free shipping, free returns, generous return policy. Exceptionally friendly and helpful in-store or online.
1). Brand – Drakes for their continued expansion into a full range of clothing
2) Best Customer Experience – No Man Walks Alone. They have the best communications and fulfillment on the operational side and excellent style and fit advice for an evolving wardrobe. Their mix of classic tailored and wearable streetwear from Japan and Europe is remarkable and very much a reflection of Greg’s taste and personal style.
3 )Best Dressed- I’ve never meet him, but Ethan Newton gets my vote for his mix of tailored, vintage & workwear.
4) Best Media – DieWorkwear for consistent quality and variety. His regular posts of tailored, casual, emerging talent, denim, shoes and accessories are the best.
1. Boggi – love their their stuff and fits me well
2. Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery – lovely people. Advice that is priceless, great products.
1 Brand of the year: Inis Meain, superb knitwear, sweater and hats
3 Best-dressed man of the year: Gary Oldman
5 Bespoke artisan of the year; John Lobb Bootmakers St. James, timeless classic shoes, best quality leather handmade shoes
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/main.htm
2 Best customer experience of the year:
http://www.indigopeople.net/product-category/scarf/
Marinella Ties: The best knot
Best knot! A whole new category….
1) Brand of the Year: The Armoury, Stoffa
2) Best Customer Experience: Tailor Caid. Not really a brand, but I’ve never had more fun working with a tailor
3) Best Dressed: Ethan Newton (most inspiring), Andreas Weinas (coolest) , Alan See (most aspirational)
4) Best Media: Hodinkee, DieWorkwear!
1. Brand
Stoffa for how inventive they’ve been in terms of corporate and visual identity, cuts and fits, color pairing and fabric curation
2. Customer experience
Stark & Sons really nailed it for me this year. I was looking for a reliable, relatively quick turn-around MTM option in Paris and they’ve just turned out to be an excellent choice. They completely revamped the product, now really well made in Italy and finished in Paris. I haven’t had any bad fit surprise and all measurements were really carefully followed. What’s more, having a bespoke tailor (Charles de Luca from Camps de Luca who took over Stark) overseeing the fitting adds a tremendous level of comfort in terms of being assured of the final result.
3. Best dressed man of the year
Hands down Shuhei Nishiguchi, Head Buyer of Beams in Japan. Absolutely amazing skills in dressing up or down any outfit, mastering and breaking all rules. A big source of inspiration…
4. Best media of the year
I can’t say the Rake as I’m contributing for them so it wouldn’t be fair.
I’ll then say MrPorter who has, for me, revolutionized online shopping with great curation (even though I wouldn’t wear many things), an extraordinary grooming and lifestyle section, outstanding editorial work on various topics and great shopping experience overall.
5. Bespoke artisan of the year
If I may, I’ll also mention one as I did order a rather large amount of bespoke garments this year: Sartoria Ripense / Andrea Luparelli. Great fit, incredible style, superb handwork and consistency in all garments delivered, always, throughout the years and THAT is rare.
Dear Simon
Great idea
1- Brand of the year – Cifonelli RTW – Consistency
2- Best costumer experience- Tie Deals – Marvelous costumer service
3- Best -dressed- Manolo Costa – Well-dressed in every season
4- Best Media- Plaza Uomo Magazine
5- Bespoke Artisan- My taylor in Curitiba, Brazil: Antenor Dallabrida
Kind regards,
caio
1: Brand of The Year : A&S Hab
Their corduroy work jacket is a
masterpiece. And they just
continue to innovate classic
piece.
2. A&S Hab : simply the best
menswear store in the world
with the best range and the
best customer service. The
gold standard.
3. Bryan Ferry – he does it
without trying. Classic, elegant
louche dressing at its best.
1) Eidos – For combining casual and tailoring that fits well in the modern workplace
2) No Man Walks Alone – Always great, prompt service with a varied and exciting selection
3) Yasuto Kamoshita – Always inspires with both formula and casual outfits
4) Die, Workwear – As others have mentioned, the range and depth of the coverage is fantastic and has become a true must read
4) Die Workwear
I check it daily for new articles. Wish he would publish more frequently but as long as he keeps writing I’m happy.
Is it fair to say that there is a natural bias, especially for the ‘best shopping experience’ vote, toward brands with the lowest price band: as more people buy clothes at £1000 than at £2500, the cheaper brands will offer a top shopping experience to more readers.
True, but there are surely enough £1,000 (give or take) retailers competing for the same customers that the competition/award is still meaningful. The fact the price-point at which the nominees compete are similar (not the lowest I would say – H&M, Next etc. haven’t received any votes) is just reflective of the disposable income and spending proprieties if the PS readership and the demographic that these brands target (hence the considerable overlap with PS advertisers)
Brand of the year: SNS Herning. High quality knitwear. Both classic and modern interpretations.
Customer experience: NA
Person: Andreas Weinås
Media: dieworkwear.com. Extremely High quality. Always well-written and quite often new perspectives and original thoughs on menswear.
Best media is undoubtedly Die, Workwear! Derek is a genuine guy, who writes approachable and interesting articles about menswear. He is able to talk about the romanticism surrounding tailoring, while avoiding getting swept up in it. He also has suggestions for less affluent readers when possible. Moreover he is fully transparent, unlike some names on the list.
1) In terms of being truly innovative, filling a niche, providing great quality (and being reasonable value too) I would probably go for Stoffa or Boudain and Lange. I’ll go for Stoffa because of number 2!
2) Close one Anglo Italian really do top notch customer engagement, I wouldn’t be surprised if they kept a notebook with details about each of their customers it is that good, however, I get the feeling they are getting far more demand than expected which is making it hard to deliver and means a lot of the stock is sold out before you get there, and tailoring is taking a bit longer than expected. I’m not complaining, success of businesses you like is the best way for the industry to thrive, but I think we’ll wait till their second year to give them the award.
So, I think I will go for Baudoin and Lange, I changed two of my orders quite last minute and it was no issue at all quick, quick clear communication and perfect product.
3) The line between inspirational icons, good looking men who dress well (but where I would look terrible in their clothes) and instagram self-promoters is a surprisingly fine one! So I think I will pass…
4) The one who we aren’t allowed to vote for… by a long, long way.
Other made up categories… best multi-brand store (The Armoury), best new product (Bennett Winch SC Holdall!), best value (Sabot shoes), highest price inflator (?? Brexit)….
Brand of the Year:Private White VC. Bought a couple of jackets this year. Very stylish and functional and have received more compliments than anything I’ve worn. Also like what Justin Fitzpatrick is doing with shoes.
Best customer experience:Simone Abarchi. Had some shirts made this year by him. Visited him when he came to London. Really good experience. Shirts fitted almost perfectly on first delivery. Just needed slight adjustment for the collar. All done promptly as promised. The measuring process was very thorough compared to other shirtmakers I have dealt with. I was apprehensive given some of the experiences you have spoken about with Italian ateliers but glad I took the plunge. Justin Fitzpatrick, Crockett & Jones and Hackett deserve honourable mentions too. Most menswear shops in London are good when it comes to customer service though I think some of the premises on Savile Row need to teach their staff a thing or two about customer service. Visited a number of premises on the Row earlier this year with a friend looking to buy a suit and was practically ignored in some establishments we visited.
Best dressed man:Edward Sexton. Always looks immaculate. Prince Charles runs him close. Idris Elba, Michael Fassbender and Samuel Jackson get honourable mentions.
Best media: Mr Porter on Youtube. They have a series of short videos about various aspects of style and luxury that are exquisitely produced. How to spend it comes second. Fairly comprehensive as is The Rake.
1) Saman Amel
3) Andreas Weinås
4) Die, Workwear!
Another vote for 4. Die, Workwear
A unique and satisfying blog not just for the wide sartorial range, but also for the intellectuality, the knowledge of history, and the photography collections.
No opinion on the other categories.
1. Drake
2. Best customer experience: Luca Faloni. A lot of attention to detail & quick to resolve issues.
3. Best Dressed: Safe bet is always G. Bruce Boyer but I’ll mix it up and go with Shuhei Nishiguchi if for no other reason that he can wear the hell out of a hat.
4. Would honestly have to say Permanent Style and by a very wide margin, but if this is not an acceptable answer, I’ll go with Die, Workwear!
1. Drake’s !
2. Luca Faloni
3. Andreas Weinas
4. The Rake Magazine
Best customer experience of the year.
My vote goes to Sartoria Vestrucci. The service, the attention to detail, the knowledge and experience of all those I met was simply first class. The team were universally friendly and accommodating and the finished product fulfilled all my expectations.
Hi Simon!
1) Brand of the Year: Private White V.C.
2) Best Customer Experience: Anderson and Sheppard Haberdashery.
3) Best Dressed Man: Andreas Weinas.
4) Best Media: I know it won’t count but still… Permanent Style! Thanks for another wonderful year!
1. Drake’s
2. Christian Kimber
3. Erik Mannby
4. Die Workwear!
Ethan Newton for best dressed man. Great hats.
(1) Anglo Italian
(2) Stefano Bemer
(3) Permanent Style (of course)
Sorry, I made a mistake – PS was meant as (4) Best Media
1. Drakes
2. Anderson and Sheppard
3. Jake Grantham
1/ Drake’s
2/ The Armoury
3/ Drake’s Model Jason Jules
4/ Men’s Ex Japan
5/ Liverano
1. Blackhorse Lane
2. Drake’s
3. Michael Browne (C&M)
1) Chad Prom
2) NMWA
3) Steve Calder
4) Parisian Gentleman
Love this idea, and really enjoyed reading all the comments! Here goes:
1) Eidos – amazed not to see any mention of this brand yet. Yes, Antonio has left (and I don’t like the sound of the new direction) but, for me, this season’s collections have been excellent. Unusual / casual pieces that I wouldn’t want to get made bespoke, but are perfect for RTW, given the quality construction and fair prices. Side note; I was also surprised to see so many mentions for Drake’s. Undoubtedly their scarves, pocket squares and ties are great (although heavy competition on all categories from Begg, Christian Kimber and Shibumi, respectively) but I’ve been really disappointed by their forays into clothing. Jackets are far too short, trousers are far too low and the knitwear is no different from that offered by many other brands. Obviously it’s impossible for RTW clothes to fit everybody (so maybe this is mostly a problem with my body shape!) but it seems particularly bad with Drake’s.
2) No Man Walks Alone – not only is the service absolutely impeccable (along with Mr Porter and Luca Faloni) but the curation of Japanese and European brands based on Greg’s personal taste is incredible, and I’ve discovered many makers I had never have heard of before. Furthermore, Greg and Alex manage to create a real sense of community among customers, which is pretty impressive for an online store.
3) paulluxsartoria – I don’t even know his real name, but his Instagram account is a constant source of inspiration for me. If I’m allowed a second vote, it has to be Andreas Weinås – I couldn’t pull off some of the outfits he wears, but he is always so incredibly well put together and shows subtle, sophisticated taste.
4) Die Workwear! – pretty much the only other menswear blog I read regularly. Well-written articles about a diverse range of topics, and I always learn something new. Definite “down-vote” for The Rake – what a shame to see where it has ended up, after such a promising start. Can somebody stage an intervention?!?
(Apologies for the lack of brevity – so much to say on all these topics. Can’t wait to see the final counts!)
That is most kind of you! Seeing my name was kind of a surprise I must say!
Paul is my real name as you might see on the Rake articles.
Nice to meet you Paul! I’ve shamelessly copied many of your outfits and bespoke commissions. Keep up the good work!
Likewise!
Absolutely not a problem and glad to hear I could help you in finding outfit ideas!
Customer experience: No man walks alone
2. No Man Walks Alone
4. Die Workwear
1. Drake’s. I have been a customer of Drake’s for years. I find it astounding that Drake’s has turned its eye for tie fabrics so seamlessly to really, a whole line of clothing. The color (colour?) palette is gorgeous each and every season. Although I find there is room for improvement (especially in the tailoring department – a good start though!), it is the one brand that I would be happy to wear exclusively.
2. No Man Walks Alone. Unquestionably, my favorite store. Customer service is without equal. This year, they sent their customers a free card holder as a Christmas gift – an incredibly generous gesture. Greg and Kyle are quick to answer questions, and are more than happy to accommodate my requests – even when those requests cost them time and money. By way of example, I requested two-day shipping and had to update to next-day air, and they covered that request free of charge. Also, free shipping and free returns alleviate any stress w/r/t fit. I buy almost all of my RTW from NMWA and have no intention of changing that.
3. Yasuto Kamoshita. He is awesome. Further, I am constantly impressed by his use of ochre.
4. Hodinkee. Across the board, Hodinkee is without equal. Easy to navigate? Check. Excellent writing? Check. Excellent editing? Check. Daily updates? Check. I could go on and on. I truly wish there was something similar for clothing.
5. Not asked, but Chris Despos. I have used him for the past few years, and have no desire to even try anyone else. I always chuckle when I hear the horror stories experienced by others.
1. Saman Amel – They operate with true precision, every product that comes out of that exquisite atelier is relevant.
2. Saman Amel – Also Saman Amel. Excellent service and very nice setting in an up-scale part of Stockholm. Definitely worth a visit regardless if you live in Sweden or not.
3. Lapo Elkann
4. The Rake
1) Drakes (They have done fantastic job with brand development although quality can be improved further).
2) Had an amazing experience with 100Hands so will go for them…although Camps De Luca would be my other choice
3) Andreas Weinas
4) The Rake
1) Drake’s – continues to crush it
2) No Man Walks Alone – product and service are second to none
3) Andy57 aka styleafter50 aka Andy Poupart – that’s how I want to look at his age (and now)
4) DieWorkwear.com – always insightful writing
1. Brand of the year: Norwegian Rain
2. Customer experience: No Man Walls Alone
3. Best dressed: Antonio Ciongoli
4. Best media: Dieworkwear Blog
1. Norwegian Rain
2. No Man Walks Alone
3. Antonio Ciongoli
4. N/A
5. N/A
1) Norwegian Rain – perfect blend of taking a classic piece, making it more functional and modern, while retaining classic menswear look. incredible attention to detail.
2) No Man Walks Alone – the only menswear vendor I trust completely and the service is beyond top notch
3) Peter of @urbancomposition on IG. Does classic menswear exceptionally well and streetwear/denim really well as a bonus, but should get it just on his CM look.
1) Drake’s
2) No Man Walks Alone
3) Greg Lellouche
4. The Rake
1) Naissance
2) Benjamin line of ehaberdasher
1) Stoffa- Really the only brand that strikes me as classic while also seeming innovative and fresh. Drakes and The Armoury are great but simply doing what they have always done. Stoffa is one of the few brands that gets me excited when I see their posts.
2) No Man Walks Alone- How an online shop should be run. Also gets my vote because Greg and Kyle are accommodating but will also give you honest opinions and stand up for what they feel is right or appropriate. I like that they have an actual vision to which they stick.
3) Simon Crompton (I know you are out of the running for your own award, but it would be my honest nomination). I will take Ethan Newton as my second choice. If my body type was more similar to his I think I would follow him obsessively.
4) Plaza Uomo- I feel that this was the year that the Swedes became the contemporary focal point of classic men’s clothing.
Having already posted, I have enjoyed reading the comments from everyone who is voting. Simon, how about next year adding a regional perspective, such as “Best Customer Experience /Retailer- North America”, Best Customer Experience/Retailer – Europe”, “Best Customer/Experience Retailer – Asia”.
Nice idea Gus
1: Eidos
2: No Man Walks Alone
3: Yasuto Kamoshita
1 – norwegian rain
2 – no man walks alone
1. Brand of the year: Drakes
2. Best customer experience of the year: Thom Sweeney
3. Best dressed man of the year: Alexander Kraft
4. Best Media of the Year: yours – Permanent Style (then Gentleman’s Journal)
1) Camoshita
2) No Man Walks Alone
3) Frank Cowperwood- great style that influenced my style.
4) Styleforum
2. No Man Walks Alone
5. Solito
Great fit, extremely comfortable and functional. Probably the only bespoke tailor who has made me a coat armhole high enough for complete freedom of movement.
1) Camoshita
2) No Man Walks Alone
3) —
4) Styleforum
5) —
5) Davies and son by cutter Patrick Murphy. He is simply Savile Row.
It is a shame that they does not get more attention by Permanent style!!
1. Norwegian Rain
2. No Man Walks Alone
4. Die, Workwear!
3) Andreas Weinås
4) manolo.se
1 ) Anglo Italian
2 ) Anglo Italian (through trunkshows in NYC)
3 ) Jake Grantham (of Anglo Italian)
1. Chad Prom
2. Double Monk
3.Steve Calder
4. Dieworkwear
#1 – The Flat Head. I’m going through a ‘heritage’ phase and TFH is da bomb. Japanese quality and meticulousness at its best.
#2 – Bryceland Hong Kong. Ethan Newton happened to be there when I walked in. We talked for over two hours on sartorial matters ranging from English vs. Italian cloth, ideal denim weight to create awesome fades, height of crown on Fedora, etc. In the end, I commissioned a mid-grey Dalcuore SB (which is why I popped by in the first place) by Gigi himself.
#3 – Lapo Elkann. He is Sartorial Sensei.
#4 The Rake. Only because I can’t pick Permanent Style.
1. Anglo Italian
2. Anglo Italian
3. Alexander Kraft
4. The Rake
1- P Johnson Tailors, Stoffa, Christian Kimber, and Drakes all stand out this year.
2- n/a
3- @maidoookini (his real name escapes me at the moment, sales for Ring Jacket. Love the way he does classic menswear with a ton of fun and huge balls.) honorable mentions to Kamoshita, Justus Hansen, and Christian Kimber himself.
4- Hodinkee. Almost went for the rake but I do wish there was a media entity as evolved and relevant in menswear as Hodinkee is for watch enthusiasts (and budding ones like myself)
2. Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashary
3. Andreas Weinas
1. Drake’s
2. Richard Anderson Savile Row
3. Michael Browne
1. Stile Latino
2. N/a
3. George Wang of Beijing
4. Dieworkwear, bar none
5. Yuki Inoue Milano
1. Drakes
2. Linnegatan 2
3. Yukio Akamine
4. Die, workwear!
1. Drake’s
2. Bryceland’s
3. https://www.instagram.com/gezzaseyes/
4. http://shoegazing.se/english/
1. Drakes/Kaptain Sunshine/Norwegian Rain
2. No Man Walks Alone
3. Ethan-Desu
4. DieWorkwear
Customer service; Skoaktiebolaget, Stockholm
Customer service – A&S
Media – weekend FT
Artisan – Lobb bespoke.
1. St Crispin’s. Just because I’ve found the perfect fit.
2. Skoaktiebolaget. Just because the service is always impeccable.
3. Kamoshita. Just because his style goes from the inside to the outside. There’s a lot of serious guys out there who should put a smile on there faces.
4. Don’t have a clue.
5. Ok, so you cant’ t nominate in this category. I say Corcos anyway.
I’m only voting in one category and that is 2) Customer Service.
Skoaktiebolaget. Probably the best online shoe shop in the world. Always available for questions (no matter how ridiculous), and the speed in which orders are sent all over the word is quite staggering.
Award 1. Drakes – always great
Award 2. Whitcomb and Shaftesbury – really good quality for money and great customer service
1. Private White VC
2. SkoAB (skoaktiebolaget Stockholm)
3. Gabriel Öberg (SkoAB)
4. Shoegazing
5.
1. Stoffa
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Andreas Wienås
4. Plaza UOMO
5. Yohei Fukuda
2. Skoaktiebolaget
Echoing comments from a lot of others here:
1. Drakes – although with Michael Drake and Jamie Ferguson on the judging panel, it should probably be disqualified
2. Mes Chaussettes Rouges – they only do one thing, but they do it very well, with a lovely personal touch
3. Another vote for Ethan Newton. He’s not blessed with the physique of a male model (who among us is?), but he has a strong and consistent style whether he’s in 1930’s era three-piece suits or workwear. As an alternative someone who looks like he just has great fun in clothes, Maidookini on Instagram.
On point 1 – Neither are employees of the brand anymore, but I take your point. However, even if we disqualified them the weight of nominations here will be hard to ignore!
1. G&G for constant new innovations with great quality
2. Skoaktiebolaget for amazing service over the many detailed emails I’ve sent and working to get me a great fit with my crazy feet
3. Andreas Weinås for amazing style combining classic style with great fit (first choice would be Simon Crompton if allowed)
4. Parisian Gentleman for informative posts with great writing (first choice would be permanent style if allowed)
5. Artisan of the year – I may not get a ton of bespoke items but when it comes to bespoke shoes I try a few new makers each year for multiple pairs each to give a fair chance of showing what they can do – Igor Suhenko of Belgrade, Serbia has made me Shoes from causal buffalo leather derby shoes to more formal wingtip balmorals but all are clean and elegant with a last designed exactly as I wanted. The connection and teamwork established is one I have yet to experience in my many many experiences with shoe makers.
1. Antonio Meccariello
2. Skoaktiebolaget
1. Drake’s
2. Luxire
3. Chad Park
4. Plaza Uomo
Brand: Drakes
Customer service: Skoaktiebolaget
Best dresser: Andreas Weinås
No man walks alone.
Greg and Kyle provide for an excellent curated menswear experience with attention to detail and customer service to match.
Highly recommend online shopping here
1) Tailor Italian wear Greece (new website but I have been using their clothes for many years)
2)Skoaktiebolaget
3) Myself (Dr P.Chatzipantelis)
4)Pittiuomo Website
5)
1. Kaptain Sunshine
2. No Man Walks Alone
3. anyone who’s trying
4. Hodinkee
5. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
(1) Drake’s
(2) The Armoury
(3) Taka at Liverano
(4) Die! Workwear
1) Antonio Meccariello
2) Skoaktiebolaget
3) Andreas Weinås
4)
1) Viola Milano ties
2) Skoaktiebolaget. Superb customer service… bought 3 pair of mto Saint Crispin’s shoes.
1) Meanswhile
2) NoManWalksAlone – Bar none, one of the best retail experience I have come across. Boast a diverse selection of different brand from all over the world. The employees are genuine and provide over the top customer service.
3) Yasuto Kamoshita
4) Dieworkwear
5) N/A
1. Camoshita
2. No Man Walks Alone
3. don’t know enough to have an opinion
4. Die work wear
Skoak for customer experience of the year
Best brand – Eidos. Antonio Ciongoili has transformed the brand from Isaia’s little brother brand into some entirely unique. The new collections draw from inspiration from India, New York and so much more to create styles that can be dressed up or down.
Best customer experience – No Man Walks Alone. Look through their styleforum thread and you’ll see them actively participating in discussions and helping customers out with questions. Even in person, their service is amazing. Greg himself greeted me when I went to visit their physical location earlier in the year. He gave constructive criticisms on fit and style and I never felt rushed or pressured to buy anything I didn’t want.
Best dressed – Camoshita! He doesn’t seem to follow any trends and dresses in his own style.
Best media – Dieworkwear. Derek delivers some great and thoughtful reads.
2.Skoaktiebolaget, customer service so great l’m almost broke! 😉
1. Norwegian Rain
2. Nomanwalksalone
3. Kamoshista
2)Skoaktiebolaget very reactive and smart
1. Anglo Italian – great debut ranges – very little I wouldn’t buy or, more importantly, wear. Competition with Drake’s (which I also love) could hot up, which can only benefit us customers!
2. Again, Anglo Italian have been excellent, albeit that there’s some further progress to be made on timescales for order fulfilment and stock levels (my size in RTW seems to sell out in hours)! However, for consistent superb service and friendliness across several years on often-stuffy Savile Row, my vote goes to Gaziano & Girling.
1. Drakes (Shibumi Firenze also gets a mention)
2. Luca Faloni – quality well priced staples and great website but it’s the customer service / personal touches which I think sets them apart
3. Alexander Kraft – modern take on the classic style with impeccable taste
4. Parisian Gentleman.
Appreciate the last one is your choice although for the record I’d go for Luca Avitabile.
Thanks for the all the great content Simon.
1) The Armoury
2) Lot No.1 Lizzie Radcliffe
1- Stoffa
2 – No Man Walks Alone
3 – Sebastian Mcfox
4 – Die Work Wear
1. Drakes
2. No Man Walks Alone
4. Die Workwear
1. Drakes
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. George Wang
4. The Rake Japan
5. Antonio Liverano
1. Stoffa
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Simon Crompton I’m not just saying this to kiss a** I really mean it.
4. If PS is excluded the then Die Work Wear
5. Sartoria Corcos
Brand: Berg and Berg
Customer service: Skoaktiebolaget
1. Stoffa
2. Eidos with Marcus Malmborg in Stockholm
3. Karl-Edwin Guerre
4. Manolo here in Sweden of course
2/ Skoaktiebolaget
3/ Oliver Dannefalk
1. Drakes
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Mark Cho
4. Plaza Uomo
1 Stoffa – Both modern and classic. I would like to own every product they offer in every color
2 Stoffa – Agyesh is the kindest and greatest guy in the business.
3 George Wang – Impeccable dresser, both in formal and casual clothing. He has style, knowledge, taste. True sprezzatura.
4. Die Workwear – Interesting and inspiring
1) Gaziano & Girling
2) Skoaktiebogalet
1) Orazio Luciano
2) Michael Jondral (There is no substitute in terms of inspiration & service orientation – even Online and I have had em all ;))
3) Michael Jondral
4) The Rake
5) Musella Dembech
1. Christian Kimber
2. NMWA
3. Steve Calder
4. The Parisian Gentlemen
1 Brand of the year: Corthay. https://www.instagram.com/maison_corthay/?hl=en Pierre continues to challenge classic menswear norms while maintaining top tier quality. Their associates are enthusiastic fans of their work and still manage to feel like a tiny bespoke operation.
Honorable mention: George Cleverley. https://www.instagram.com/georgecleverley/?hl=en For their shoe trees alone, but also for their craftsmenship and entrance into the digital space, while still being centralized in that tiny arcade shop.
2 Best customer experience of the year: Shopthefinest, or the well known Ian D. https://www.linkedin.com/in/ian-daniels-70877aa/ If it weren’t for his passion and relentless efforts to source the best sartorial goods, I’d not be able to dress as if I were wealthy.
3 Best-dressed man of the year: David Gandy: https://www.instagram.com/davidgandy_official/?hl=en Because he dresses for each occasion without being fixed on maintaining a costumed look. Probably doesn’t hurt he has stylists and is a famous model.
Should that disqualify him, I’ll second Lapo because everything looks as easy as a cozy sweater on him.
4 Best media of the year: Isaia. http://isaia.it/ https://www.isaia.it/content/isaia-spring-summer-2017-look-book Their lookbooks, store experiences, packaging and overall branding has been delightful and consistent in building their image as the epitome of capricous classic fashion.
5 Bespoke artisan of the year: Cesare Attolini. http://cesareattolini.com I’ve only been fortunate enough to have a few pieces made by the esteemed fashion house, but the attention to detail, quality, and historical relevance sets their work apart.
Best Customer Experience: Skoaktiebolaget, easily. Every interaction I’ve had with them, and I’ve had quite a few, has been superlative.
I would like to share my best customer experience of the year 2017. It was Skoaktiebolaget.
It’s really hard to buy well fitted pair of shoes online, and guys gave my best advise with particular last.
Skoaktiebolaget – blthe best customer service
1) Stoffa.
2) Stoffa. Always nice going to the trunk shows (and they are one of the few brands that travels to California), even if I just need to get something altered. Very quick with the alterations and great communication.
3) Gabriel from Skoaktiebolaget. I have never seen a picture of him where I thought it was anything less than brilliant or that was too much and wanted to make me roll my eyes.
(1) Drake’s
(2) The Armoury HK
(3) Taka of Liverano
(4) Die Workwear
Nice idea!
1) Drakes
2) Skomaker Dagestad. A fantastic shoe shop in Oslo. The people working there are increasibly friendly and their passion for shoes makes every visit an experience
3) Andreas Weinås
4) Manolo
2: Skoaktiebolaget
3: Filip Strömbäck (Stiljournalen)
3) Gabriel Oberg
1: Paolo Scafora
2: Skoaktiebolaget
2. Skoaktiebolaget
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Douglas Essehorn
2) – No Man Walks Alone. A key “go to” in terms of introducing interesting less well known makers and brands who bring a level of style, quality and value – across the spectrum of formal t casual – that just seems to hit the right spot every time. A place where one can be confident one is getting that right mix, and Greg’s eye and customer service are excellent.
1. For innovation I’d say Enzo Bonafé. Their new line is amazing and a huge update over their older dated photos. For functionality I’d say St. Crispin’s. Extremely well built classic footwear.
2. Skoaktiebolaget for customer service by far. Always excellent to me.
No comment on 3/4.
5. I’d have to say Antonio Meccariello. Love his designs.
Best Customer Service
Is without hesitation Skoaktiebolaget both the store an online shop is nothing less than great.
1. Drake’s
2. Sam Hober
3. Sebastian McFox – https://www.instagram.com/sebastianmcfox/
4. Put This On
brand: Baudoin and Lange
store: No Man Walks Alone
man: Alan See
media: Dieworkwear.com
artisan: DW Frommer
1. Ikire Jones – Wale’s ongoing efforts to blend traditional Nigerian textiles, Afrofuturism, and traditional menswear is one of the most interesting things happening right now. I look forward to each season of his products.
2. No Man Walks Alone – As others have already noted, Greg, Kyle, and the whole team provide an exceptional customer experience. They consistently daylight underexposed brands, curate selections from all brands expertly, provide a wide range of products encompassing streetwear and tailoring, and take seriously the necessary effort to present what they offer in a way that gives an accurate representation of color, texture, and material. Questions are answered with insight. Purchases ship quickly and are carefully packed. They’ve built a community over at Styleforum and they always welcome drop-ins at the office. And they’re all just good people.
5. Vanda and Steed – I suppose I shouldn’t elevate Gerald and Diana above David Hober or Patrizio Cappelli, whom I also think make tremendous bespoke ties. But in 2017, Vanda made available a lot of interesting fabrics, so I’ll go with them this year. On the Steed side, Edwin and Matthew continue to turn out wonderful garments that don’t seem to get as much love as they should. Everything I’ve seen from them in 2017 has been fantastic, provided with cheer and quality service.
Great idea these awards and really fantastic to read all the submissions. I also agree with Gus’s suggestions on regional awards – as a Melbourne based, Edinburgh boy my exposure to A&S Haberdashery is limited to once every 5 years, but I still receive some excellent services locally and online which would not register enough support for an award from a global audience but is worth some recognition.
Below are my nominations – trying to focus them on 2017 specifically – and those I had experience of in 2017 (for example. did I order from them this year/did the company do something different in 2017).
1. Brand of the Year – Have to add my weight to Drake’s here who seems to grow year on year. The introduction of their EasyDay line specifically. Runner Up – Eidos, some really unique and innovative designs, but will be interesting what happens without Antonio. (Tip for 2018 – watch for Christian Kimber as he expands into clothing).
2. Customer Service – here perhaps there should be a boutique and “department” store award. Mr Porter and End Clothing are hard to go pass for their range, easy of use (especially in returns), the content and details they have etc. Again hard to avoid being super local here. For someone who has go the extra mile, I would nominate Eidos – specifically for Antonio’s contributions to the Style Forum thread and ability to answer all questions. Drakes and NWMA are both great from an online perspective in terms of advice and support and deserve a mention.
3. Best Dressed 2017 – so many possible nominations. A couple of people previously mentioned Noburo Kakuta (whom I nicknamed The Master sometime ago – http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/42245790203/the-master-in-uniform). He would definitely be in for a lifetime award in my opinion and looking at his 2017 efforts (see links at end of post) – he would get my vote for this year too. Consistent but will subtle changes to stay timely. Honourable mentions for Sid Mashburn, Antonio from Eidos, Nick Sullivan and Gerry (@gezzaseyes).
Yes, Gerry is a close friend but his ability to try different styles, to develop and evolve are wonderful and well worth a mention. Also, not in the business, like many nomination See example – http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/167265929008/gezzasmenswear-wandering-around-kurashiki-in)
4. Best Media – aside from Permanent Style – Mr Porter and No Man Walks Alone both do great content, as does Put This On, and sometimes Monocle. However, it is hard to go past Die Workwear! – different and in depth perspective across all spectrum of price and style – and regularly updated.
Long post but hopefully insightful to some (I have got lots from the posts of others).
The Master in 2017
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/155939932078/the-master-and-son
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/163391277863/the-master-for-summer-source-dan-roberts
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/157218406403/heinfienbrot-noboru-kakuta-the-master-in
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/165499288618/mr-noboru-kakata
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/162266596083/heinfienbrot-noboru-kakuta-the-master-casual
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/156204044793/kerloaz-noboru-kakuta-the-master-for-winter
http://linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com/post/155939691618/the-master-in-2017
1) Fox Brothers & Co;
2) Fox Brothers & Co;
3) Fabrizio Servente of Woolmark Company;
4)
5) Sartoria Franco Puppato – Venice
1. Shibumi Firenze – G&G would be a close second
2. Luca Faloni
Have to say I am surprised by the nominations of A&S Hab for number 2. I’ve always found them friendly but the three times they’ve said they need to get prices or check on something & will call me back they never have and the less said about their website the better.
1) Drakes
2) Michael Jondral in Hannover
3) Simon Crompton
4) Permanentstyle
5) Cannot decide
Best Brand: G. Inglese
Best Customer Service: NMWA
Best customer experience – Skoaktiebolaget
I ordered a pair of Carmina shoes from their end of season sale. These were for an interview in a tight timeframe, which I emailed them about. After getting my message, they dispatched the order within 24 hours, and absorbed all the shipping costs to the US. The order arrived in two days (via international rush mail), securely packaged and the shoes flawless. Impeccable and memorable service.
1. Christian Kimber
2. The Armoury
3. Stephen Calder
4. Dieworkwear
1. Saman Amel
2. Skoaktiebolaget
3. Antonio Ciongoli
4. Plaza Uomo
The Rake – best customer experience. I shopped with them several times and their service is amazing, really as good as one can expect. I don’t think I’ve ever had a shopping experience I could commend more. Their responses were quick, their shipping times good, returns faultless and quick, communication via e-mail/phone polite and helpful, responsiveness to customer’s needs at 100%, offers fantastic and well priced. I’m really amazed and with nothing to hold a grudge for (except maybe DHL, ugggh, but that’s not really their fault :D), and I am a customer that demands a lot. Really great job, guys, keep it up!
Permanent Style – best media. Not because it’s your site we’re writing on, Simon, but you truly deliver excellent and interesting content all the time. Keep at it! Runner up is Luca Rubinacci’s brilliant video tutorials – “hello, (h)everyone!” – love the guy!
1. Christian Kimber – can’t wait for his clothing.
2. Mr Porter is the best service, no comparison really.
3. Tomoyoshi Takada – He is def the best at the moment. https://www.instagram.com/tomoyoshi_takada/?hl=en
4. DieWorkwear
There should be a category for the worst too.
The worst could be easy – anything on Bond St or 5th Avenue!
1/ Orlebar Brown
2/ Skoaktiebolaget
1 Brand of the year: BRIO Beijing
2 Best customer experience of the year: BRIO Beijing
3 Best-dressed man of the year: George Wang
4 Best media of the year: @beijing1980
5 Bespoke artisan of the year: tailor at BRIO Beijing
1) Cesare Attolini. Their lookbook are sufficient to make me travel
2) Le Vestiaire du Renard https://vestiairedurenard.fr/ , a french second hand eshop, with a very high level of customer service. And the founder used to run a very popular blog about classic menswear in France, so he’s very very skilled, and helpful. Wanted to highlight him.
3) Bruce Boyer still rocks the show
4) Parisian Gentleman.
Brand of the year
Innovation: Gaziano & Girling
Functionality: Gaziano & Girling
Best Customer Experience of the Year
Customer service: Gaziano & Girling
In store/online experience: Gaziano & Girling for both
Quality of brand: Gaziano & Girling
Brand: Camoshita continues to surprise me, the brand doesn’t always use the finest materials, but makes up for it with creativity and style.
Customer experience: Private White VC went the extra mile for me this year – highly recommended
Best dressed: Like others above, I’ll pick relative newcomer Sebastian McFox. His fits are spot on – subdued and classic, but comfortably creative.
1) NA
2) Baudoin & Lange, free expedited international shipping and the quickest responses to email I’ve ever received. Changed my order twice, which I assume shipping can be quite expensive, but they handled it quickly, professionally, and efficiently.
3) Yasuto Kamoshita, no comment needed
1. Brand: Drake’s, Asket, Luca Faloni
2. Customer experience: Stefano Bemer, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Luca Faloni,
1. Brand of the year: Private White. Innovative, yet based on tradition as to its design & craftsmanship.
2. Best customer experience: the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. One is always welcomed and treated as if one is a friend of the house.
3. Best dressed: please Simon NOT anyone attending Pitti in Florence. That has become too much of the same inner circles, the same people clapping each other’s shoulders, publishing books about each other’s acquired style (e.g. B. Roetzel’s A Gentleman’s Lookbook).
Please someone that already was stylish BEFORE the whole instagram and blogosphere took off. My suggestion would be Adam Rogers. Adam is not loud, not showing off, but he is and has always been stylish, no matter the casual or dressed up attire. I don’t know him, have never met him in person, but it strikes me each time how stylish he is, no matter the context or situation.
4. Best media: Die Workwear is a honest blog, trying to dig a little deeper. Also, it’s always a good read.
1) Anderson & Sheppard Habadashery
2) Budd Shirts
4) The Shoe Snob
Best Customer Service – Skoaktiebolaget
I ordered a pair of Carmina from them on the evening of Dec 20, and the shoes got to me in Hong Kong on the morning of Dec 22, in just 40 hours! It turned out that the shipping was upgraded to Fedex Priority for free. Apparently Skoak did it hoping that I could get the shoes before Christmas. I was really amazed by this, as well as the quality control and assurance papers enclosed that showed how meticulous they are about customer service. I really couldn’t be more satisfied.
2. Kafka – Quite a lot of their stuff is a bit too Hipsterish but they also stock a good range of classics like Incotex chinos, Inis Meain knitwear and Common Projects sneakers. Where they really excel though is in customer service. They offer repeat customers a discount on future orders at a rate based on spend over the previous 12 months, making you always feel appreciated. Returns/exchanges are dealt with very well too.
3. Andrea Luparelli (Sartoria Ripense Instagram) – I’ve not seen this name mentioned above but I think Andrea manages to look great in casual wear and the tailoring he makes. Nothing ever really looks ‘off’ and he combines colours and textures brilliantly.
Hi Simon, this nomination is for customer service. Billy Higgins is a one-off haberdashery / gentleman’s shop in Limerick City, Ireland. It is in its second generation in the family. They sell RTW shirting, suits, ties, pocket squares and shoes, etc. The shop is delightfully old world, up to date but not excessively fashion forward – classic in the right way. It’s in the service that they come into their own. They have a second floor fitting room that is comfortable and private. Liam, the owner, operates by appointment (but not appointment only), and gives you as long as you need to select a suit, helps you try them on, gives considered suggestions, and has an expert eye for fit. They alter the sleeves and take in jackets as needed via a local tailor they work with. This is a case of a sales assistant who knows fit. I’ve bought three suits from them in three years – Atelier Torino navy worsted, Magee flannel and Magee tweed, and it’s always a special experience. They have a shop in Dromoland Castle hotel, but the Limerick City shop is the flagship.
Brand = Scandanavian Edition (excellent, tailored rainwear and outdoor gear) and Uniclo (for a high-street brand Uniclo pushes the boat out in technical wear – its down jackets are, by far, the best value on the market).
Experience = Dege & Skinner
Man = Lapo Elkann – I know you question this choice Simon but Lapo really does bend and shape the sartorial rules and in Italy is a style icon in the way Gandy or Beckham is here. He moves throughout European high society sporting some of the best suits you will see (it is worth noting that many of his suits are by Rubinacci). However he does it with flair and nonchalance. Most of all he removes fustiness from tailored style by combining cut, colour, design and streatwear in way that no one else does or can.
Media = Die Workwear – the next best thing to PS.
Artisan = All the unknown alteration tailors and shoe repairers that keep our wardrobes in a functional, fit state whilst utilising great craft skills in the process.
In future awards, how about adding The Best New Emerging Brand and Best New Emerging Retailer? We all want to know about positive new options.
Nice idea
Have the winners been announced yet? I noted the January 17 date above but seem to have missed the announcement.
They are being announced gradually Gerry – best customer service yesterday, best media tomorrow, then best brand, best-dressed and artisan next week. They all deserve a little space to talk about the things that really make them unique and deserving I think
1 Drake’s. Just really looked at them past the pocket squares for the first time and for me they’re looking like the “only” brand. Love the Harris Tweed jacket I picked up and am eagerly awaiting this week’s delivery.
2 Drake’s again. Didn’t do much shopping this year, but the Crosby St store over the phone (Kevin in particular) were always very helpful. Even phoned up London and they were quite nice as well.
3 Tie between Jules and the other gentlemen from the Drake’s AW look book. More “regular” guys who actually look great in what they’re wearing.
4 Honestly Permanent Style. Really enjoyed discovering you and am particularly impressed with your willingness to reply. Well done.
Thank you. Please note the votes and nominations for these closed a week ago, however. Four of the five winners have been announced so far, all in separate posts
Brand of the year: doppiaa
Best dressed man: Gerardo Cavaliere, sartoria Giuliva
Best Media: Mr Sloboy
Bespoke artisan: Ambrosi Napoli
Thank you Mirko. These awards closed a few weeks ago, however.