The Permanent Style cufflinks
It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations.
In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everything from the now-widely-available Finagon cardigan to the very-limited Globe-Trotter tote.
One of the collabs I particularly liked, however, was the very first - the Permanent Style cufflinks.
[Cufflinks now available to buy here]
I loved that one because there was such a clear vision for the product, and because it allowed people to buy handmade product from a fantastic bespoke jeweller like Diana Maynard.
The vision was built on:
- Cufflinks should have decoration on both sides of the cuff. They all used to, and it looks cheap if they don't
- To push such a decoration through the cuff, it must be relatively small and smooth - like a small stone or pearl
- That decoration should be of the very finest quality, but be very subtle in its style
- The bar connecting the two sides should be small, so the cufflink bangs on the desk less when you're working, and so it holds the cuff snugly around the wrist
Diana and I went through several iterations of the design, trying out different sizes of stone and length of bar until we found the perfect combination.
We also made some in various stones, but my favourite were always the pearls. They weren't too showy, and the options of white, grey and peacock colour meant there was one for pretty much every outfit, day or evening.
So we decided to make some stock and carry them again on the Permanent Style shop page - where you can see them now, in those three colours, with both gold and silver.
The links cost £240 (in silver) and £280 in gold. Looking back now, I find it incredible how cheap they are for the quality. We didn't really think of margin back then, it was just a question of doing an interesting project. With a standard margin they would be closer to £500.
You can read the full 2011 story here.
In the meantime, some more facts on the links:
- The cultured freshwater pearls are around 10mm in diameter
- The silver and gold stems are all circular in cross-section and gently tapered
- They are hallmarked at London assay office, and polished and rhodium-plated to prevent tarnishing
- The stems are individually cast, and the pearls set by hand. They are then polished and finished by hand also.
- All links are currently in stock and are dispatched within 2 days
- More details on postage and terms and conditions available here
Dear Simon, I ordered a pair of these from the Hanger Project with white pearls when you first launched the collaboration, and they really are beautiful, but I’ve found them impossible to wear as a basic pair because one of the pearls pops off unexpectedly. Kirby sent them back for repair the first time this happened, but it’s continued to happen the link has never been truly reliable as a result. I had planned originally to get a pair in each colour, but obviously didn’t. I don’t think I’ve even tried to wear them in more than a year, and wonder if this was a rare exception or if you’ve had other examples of the problem. Regardless, I can’t argue with the aesthetic, which goes with absolutely everything, and I wish you lots of luck with this relaunch. Best, Michael
Thanks Michael, and that’s very good to know – I wasn’t aware of the issue. Could you email me and I’ll get you a correct pair. It’s [email protected]
By coincidence I ordered a pair of the amber links a few days ago – looking forward to seeing them in the flesh.
Simon have you seen Longmire’s range? They are expensive but the finishing is second to none. The stirrup links in particular are quite something.
I have and I know friends who have them. The finishing is very nice, though I’d question the value for money
Agreed – do you know of anyone with comparable finishing for cheaper?
No, good point (aside from these PS ones of course!). I’ll have a think though
Are Longmire really that good? I have to say when I stumbled upon their shop the overwhelming majority were squarely in the novelty space for me – plus as per the original post the majority were on basic posts without decoration on the other side which is fine for budget items but not really at this price point to me.
The finishing is good, we didn’t refer to the actual designs or the lack of decoration on one side. And I agree that personally most of their items fall down on those points.
Those are beautiful! What a fantastic design.
Hi Simon,
I am incredibly disappointed by Drake’s summer sale, having patiently waited for said summer sale since this winter. Simply no “good” ties are discounted: No madder silk, grenadines only in odd variations, no woollen ties. In a word Drake’s pretty much decided that they should not include anything interesting in their sales. Very sad.
Just received my cufflinks in the mail – they are absolutely perfect. Very subtle.
Thank you Simon!
Lovely to hear it, thanks David
Simon, what’s your opinion on silk knot cufflinks? Elegant? Bad taste? Traditional?
Nice and simple, an effective and versatile option
In terms of quality is there any difference between cheap ones from Ebay and something found on, say, Bond street?
Hi Simon, I was about to buy these but noticed they are no longer displayed in the shop (I saw them a couple of weeks ago). Do you expect to have more stock soon? I´m interested in the white pearl, sterling silver version. Thanks!
Sorry – they’re back on there now. They’d dropped off the bottom of the homepage
Thanks! Which would you choose between white and grey pearls if you were only going to have one? They are all beautiful so it is hard to choose.
Probably grey – I’d find them more versatile
Simon, do usually wear a button cuff? When do you wear cufflinks? I’m really unsure whether to stick to button cuff shirts or transition to double cuff ones to wear with cufflinks as Im not sure if it will look a bit too smart up top if Im not wearing formal suit etc and just a cotton trouser down below with a blazer. Also is it funny having metal weight at the end of the sleeve?
I wear a button cuff 99% of the time. Only a double with a suit or black tie.
If you’re not wearing suits, then stick with a button cuff. Much more versatile too.
I think you’re right Simon, cufflinks only seem right with suits and above in formality. Why is that though? Is that because they convey a certain formality in themselves these days?
Incidentally do you remember in the 90s guys wearing jeans with a shirt with cufflinks? That always looked SO wrong in my opinion)
It’s because jewellery is smarter, basically.
And yes, I still see that look around the City sometimes – it’s basically because City guys only ever wore double cuffs and cufflinks for a while, and then tried to wear the same business shirts with jeans…
Hi Simon,
What colour combination for the cuff links do you think would be best for a navy evening suit, white shirt, black tie and black shoes? My instinct is to go for the peacock pearls and silver bar.
Also, are you able to recommend where to buy some good quality dinner suit cuff links (ideally black with a gold bar/link), assuming, of course, PS doesn’t plan to introduce its own in the near future.
Many thanks!
Hi Ravi,
I think either white or peacock pearl with a silver bar would work well.
I haven’t looked at good cufflink suppliers for a while, but if you like the design of these, you could always ask the maker, Diana Maynard, to source you a black stone to go on the end of a gold link. If you place an order here, she’ll handle the shipping and communication anyway, so you can talk to her then.
S
Hi Simon,
I’m about to order PS cufflinks, but I simply cannot choose pearls’ colour & can afford only one pair, looking for the most versatile option. Please, could you provide a little help?
I don’t wear any gold accessories, only silver(ish) (spectacles & watches). Also, no brown shoes/accessories for me, only black. No light suits, only navy or grey (from mid to charcoal). Same for the sport jackets, usually worn with light trousers (tan, cream, grey). Shirts always at least with stripes (blue or grey, mostly), no solid white for me, never. Blue shirts often, always light, different tones.
I must say that I don’t like grey pearls. Peacock seems to me the most attractive colour. White seems also good, but a bit ceremonial (I don’t attend any formal events) and not sure about wearing it with e. g. charcoal suit and blue shirt?
What’d you say? Thanks a lot!
John
I’d go with white John. It doesn’t really look that ceremonial, as it’s so small and subtle. And grey would be my second choice for the kind of versatility you’re after.
Simon, thanks! And about peacock – where do you see limitations of its versatility? In the range of colour combinations or rather unsuitability for the variety of occasions? Personally, I’m for example not sure if it could go with blue shirt of every shade (purple, green etc.), but I think just about every navy/grey jacket would fit with it very well.
J.
I think that’s right on peacock. It’s also a little more unusual, so you might not find it as easy to wear frequently
Do you think the peacock with silver would be appropriate with a properly dark midnight navy tux would work? Looking for wedding cufflinks (wedding next November), but don’t really want white. I’ve been looking at some black cufflinks from Budd, but would really like a proper dark and subtly eye-catching blue. The peacock look to fir the bill, but would appreciate your thoughts.
yes I think they would be, certainly. It’s a very dark and subtle colour
Perfect. Presumably, if the cufflinks work then the matching studs would work as well with a midnight navy tux? Wish you also carried the studs, but it appears I can buy that directly from the maker.
Yes they would. Do feel free to buy direct from Diana, by the way. We don’t really take much of a margin on them, and she would handle the order in any case