I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s.
We will be in the same place, in the same format, as was so successful back in March. Starting on September 10th (opening Tuesday to Saturday) there will be a new set of brands every week.
In the first week, we will have British bag manufacturer Tusting, doing their first physical retail; London denim specialists Blackhorse Lane, presenting a new line of jackets and chinos for the first time; and Stefano Bemer from Florence, who will be launching a new line.
The second week will have brands from further afield. Steve Calder from Melbourne will be coming all the way over with his relaxed tailoring; Chapal from France will be coming with ready-to-wear leather jackets for the first time, as well as MTO; and Stockholm shop Skoaktiebolaget will also be making their debut - offering their own line Lof & Tung, plus Enzo Bonafé.
Then in a third week, as if that wasn’t enough, Ethan from Bryceland’s will be here. He will be taking over the entire shop, with both Bryceland’s merchandise and trunk shows from brands that Bryceland’s works with, including Wellema hats, Solakzade eyewear, Red Rabbit jewellery and Ascot Chang shirts.
As ever, alongside the brands in the first two weeks will be merchandise from Permanent Style and from fellow organiser James Girdwood.
One or two new collaborations on the PS Shop - details to come - will be launching there.
During the first week (September 10th to 14th) it will be interesting to have Tusting on display.
They have been the (British) manufacturer for many mid-market brands we recommend for many years, but this is their first physical shop. Their bags are excellent value - and they will be launching a more urban collection to go alongside the country classics they currently have.
Stefano Bemer are launching a new line of shoes called ‘Essenziale’.
These are the same quality as their normal ready-to-wear (so very good - great arch support for instance) but made in a small number of classic styles and leathers, to reduce costs. As a result, the Essenziale shoes are €850 instead of €1250.
The Blackhorse Lane launch is of three new outerwear pieces, and chinos, to complement their jeans.
There is a Type II trucker jacket, in a nice salt-and-pepper style denim; an overshirt in a cream denim (my personal favourite); and a one-pocket shirt in a light chambray. Then the chinos are in really lovely heavy cotton, a khaki, navy and dark olive. I've got my eye on a dark-olive pair in the same cut as my NW1 jeans from them.
In week two (September 17th to 21st) Steve Calder will be offering pieces like his linen trousers, work shirts and polos.
As I mentioned in my Summer Top 10 piece, it’s interesting to see how he combines awareness of tailoring style (such as rise and pleats) into his pieces. There will also be more casual things like combat pants and t-shirts.
Chapal will be focused on their best-loved pieces, such as the sheep’s leather flight jacket that I have.
Their plan is to offer this style as ready-to-wear, so there is something visitors can walk away with. But then there will also be a much wider MTO offering, on that style and several others.
Skoaktiebolaget, meanwhile, will also have both RTW and MTO from their brand Lof & Tung and from Bonafé.
I’m interested to see Log & Tung in person, as I’ve heard very good things. It’s a more entry-level shoe line (from €330) with some interesting styles (half boots, full-strap loafers).
And then finally, there’s Bryceland’s. It wasn’t surprising Ethan wanted to come back, given the reception he had back in March. But it will be lovely to give him more space for his own week (September 24th to 28th).
As per last time, most of the Bryceland's-branded stock will be available, but alongside Bryceland's partners: Solakzade vintage eyewear, whom I met in Tokyo and loved the eclectic style of; Ascot Chang shirts, whom we know; Red Rabbit jewellery, which now has rather a cult following; and Wellema hats, which might generate the most hype of all.
I'm excited: I look forward to seeing everyone in September. As ever, there will be an opening party, on Wednesday 11th. Do come along if you’re free.
For more on Permanent Style Presents, its history and concept, see the dedicated page here.
Simon,
This looks like the best lineup yet. Tusting are indeed excellent value for the quality, I can’t recommend them enough. I’ve got three bags from them so it’ll be really interesting to see the new styles, and I often get positive comments on the Clipper satchel that I use for the office.
Excited to see Lof & Tung too, as they do some really strong designs but I’d like to handle some before buying. Great to see some Chapal in the flesh too.
Date’s in the diary!
I happened to pass by the last one .
Must say I was very impressed .
No pressure sales , just people with a shared passion admiring and discussing .
I was particularly pleased by the ease with which one felt enquiring about prices . As a man of limited means this is important .
Nice to hear Robin. We’re all pretty chilled – it helps that it’s usually the founder or maker you’re talking to, not a salesman
Simon, the Tusting bags, particularly the Explorer model, look interesting. How would you compare the quality to Frank Clegg bags?
I haven’t used them personally so can’t say with much accuracy, but I don’t think they’re quite at the Clegg level. Hence the lower price level (even though that is good value still – and both are manufacturers of course)
Will Luigi Solito be there? I always miss his flying visits to London. By far the most talented and detailed of the southern Italian tailors (also very handsome)….
No, but he’s in London every 6 weeks, and the pop-up is every six months – so more chance of catching him at a regular trunk show of his! (He’s in London right now actually)
Really looking forward to it, Simon!
Hi Simon,
The BHL chinos sound interesting. Are they washed cotton or unwashed? And are they offering them in different fits? Thanks!
They’re unwashed – designed to wear in more like denim. So a heavier, more robust cotton. And in the NW1 fit to start with I believe
I’m really interested in Løf & Tung and other relatively new shoe companies that are in the same price range. After takling to several sales men of brands like this, the pitch is that the leather and construction quality is of equal quality, but they’re constructed in countries with lower labour costs, and are therefore able to sell at a lower price point than say Crocket and Jones. I’ve inspected the workmanship on shoes like this, and it looks sound. My question is: is the leather of the same quality as more expensive brands( ie. C&J)? And how would I as a consumer know? I can’t tell by just touching them… Any insigths?
Well, most of the saving is certainly that, yes, but having not tried both over a long time I can’t really attest to the leather.
And unfortunately that’s the way you’ll really tell the quality – how it ages over time.
In the UK, it’s fairly easy to distinguish these quality levels because the costs are constant; but that changes when they’re made abroad.
Does anyone know how Brycelands’ OCBD shirts compare to those from Drakes? I am interested in purchasing a few in September.
Really interested in that Stefano Bemer line. Do you know where i can find more info on the styles which will be offered? I cannot seem to find much on their website?
The Bemer line isn’t launched yet, so there’s nothing on it at this point. There will be closer to the time of the pop-up though
Hi Simon,
won’t you finally write a review on your Chapal jacket? 🙂
I was once very very close to ordering a Chapal MTM jacket, but stopped myself due to the price increases and I am not confident on how is a leather jacket going to stay stain free and sweat stench free. With wool it is easy. Some airing and dry cleaning from time to time does the job pretty well.
So I am curious about your Chapal review.
Good point, sorry I forgot I’d never done a full piece on that – just on the jackets of others. I’ll plan one for closer to the winter
I just had the opportunity to try out a few of the Steve Calder/Informale samples at his showroom. Give the Fatigue pants a go if you get the chance!
Really looking forward to it!
It will be a great few days in London I am sure!
Enjoy summer.
would the PS x begg and co square scarf be in stock and what colours would be available?
It will be the same as the shop site has at the moment, so green and navy – no restocks are expected
Where is this being held?
Number 37 Savile Row – same location as the last one
Hi Simon,
The one PS item I would love to own would be a silver grey version of your merino crew.
The navy is possibly my favourite non-shoe item in my wardrobe and silver is my favourite jumper colour.
Any chance this might be on the cards for Autumn?!
All the best, Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
It’s not I’m afraid, but this is all really useful. I did try a prototype of the sweater in grey but the melange is not great in a fine merino sweater like this – not like a normal mid-weight cashmere.
Out of interest, why do you like the piece you have so much?