The suede blouson for travel
Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar.
Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. I'm wearing my suede blouson here with Incotex chinos, but often wear it with higher-waisted trousers - flannels in the winter, high-twists in the summer.
The close waist is particularly satisfying for someone used to fitting jackets to their body - larger or longer jackets can seem to swamp you by contrast.
If the blouson has a two-piece collar, as this one does, it is often best when oversized - certainly much larger than you would expect from the proportions of tailoring.
That's one thing I would change about my bespoke leather jacket from Gieves & Hawkes (shown below). Davide and I consistently cut back the collar from his original drawings, but we should have kept it large from the start.
The setting is Padua, just outside Venice, which myself, Michael Hill and James Munro of Drake's were staying in while we visited the Belvest factory just outside.
Trips abroad are a great excuse to take some shots on location, so James and I had some fun around the city finding beautiful walls and colonnades to shoot against.
Blousons are also great for travel because they can be worn with the the same tailored trousers as a jacket, so you need only take one pair if you want to travel light.
And they usually have handy pockets, although of course suede is not the most practical of materials in other respects. Fortunately there was no forecast of rain.
The blouson is from Ralph Lauren Purple Label. The tobacco suede goes well with almost any colour of trouser, but is particularly nice against cream.
The grey cashmere sweater is from Anderson & Sheppard, with a Sunspel T-shirt underneath.
Weekender bag from Bennett Winch, 'Starsky' glasses from EB Meyrowitz.
Great post as always Simon1
That blouson is perfection! I’ll certainly look for this the next time I’m in Ralph Lauren! The photos came out really great too!
Whoops! That’s meant to be an exclamation mark.
Excellent jacket Simon.Are you wearing suede shoes with the ensemble?Desert chukkas boots would be nice.
I agree. I’m wearing my G&G slip-ons, but chukka boots would also have been nice.
What are your thoughts on nylon or cotton (and nylon) blend blouson sold on high street ?
Would you always favour pure cotton or is it excusable to allow some artificial fibre ?
Only really for being more waterproof or stainproof than other materials.
Hi Simon,
This is a great piece! I have one that I bought years ago in Paris. In my experience, the best time to wearing it is Autumn! Now I just wonder what type of maintenance do you apply for yours.
John
Occasional cleaning, but mostly it’s about being careful with it, and brushing fairly regularly to keep the nap up
I have a newly -found obsession with suede. What are your thoughts about spraying suede jackets?
Generally a good idea, but only a light spray – and even then, don’t rely on it to absolutely protect the material. Still avoid the rain if you can.
Hi Simon,
A little off topic.
Regarding Incotex chinos. I note in past posts that you state to avoid going for the slim or skinny leg. However on various website such as Mr Porter, etc they stock little else other than the four season, relaxed fit (straight leg).
Are you still of the opinion of sticking with the straight leg incotex chino. If so could you recommend which styles you prefer
thanks for your time
Yes, it’s unfortunate. They’re aiming for a more fashion audience, who don’t want a slightly higher rise or that straight leg.
So yes I’m still of that style – check out Trunk, they’ve just got some new stock in
http://www.trunkclothiers.com/brands/incotex
Another brand well worth looking at that I think has a superior cut and finish to incotex is Officine Generale.
I bought two pairs from porter and have been most impressed. The quality, attention to detail and slightly heavier cotton make them an absolute staple.
Looks an excellent combination with the light chinos though I would be slightly nervous about travelling in case the suede gets marked.
On a totally different tack, Simon I visited the excellent Trunk and Drake’s recently. Thinking about the jackets from the likes of Lardini, Boglioli, Caruso – would you recommend those for an informal jacket or getting a MTM or bespoke from an English tailor. I am wondering about comparisons in quality and whether our tailors can replicate that style – would appreciate your thoughts, thanks.
I certainly wouldn’t go to an English tailor to replicate that style, no. But a Neapolitan tailor could – except for the garment wash aspects, which can only be done RTW (fading/softening of material)
Will any jacket from Italian makers like Boglioli have the length that you require? The ones I have seen all seem fashionably short.
No, those will largely be too short. I’m talking about more classic jackets
Can you recommend any quality t-shirt makers who cater for taller guys?
My Sunspel t-shirts are great in most respects but, at 6’3″, I find them just a touch too short through the body.
Hmm, let me think. What you want is a traditional maker that still makes T-shirts intended as underwear rather than outerwear. They will be naturally longer
Merz B? Their Henley’s certainly resemble old fashioned undershirts.
They’re certainly long, though they are a different style to a regular T-shirt I guess, so question of whether Matt likes that.
Looking good! Is this recent? Cashmere and suede in Padua in August must have been a bit on the warm side? But perfect on a chill autumnal day in the sunshine.
A touch warm, but actually it was a cool day
Completely agree on Sunspel being too short. For undershirts, I actually use the American Apparel deep v t-shirt in heather grey. It fits long, is cheap and the v is deep enough that you won’t see it with an open-neck shirt.
For outerwear, I get mine from American Giant – they are excellent quality and good value but far too thick to wear as an undershirt.
I am the same height, and have found Uniqlo’s (no joke) supima t-shirts to be a good length while comparing favourably in terms of quality.
Thanks Bjorn and Bespoken (that’s a good name for a band!) for your suggestions.
AA and Uniqlo were possibly not the quality level I had in mind but there’s no point in paying for quality materials if the fit is off.
It is not the level I normally aim for either, but they really are very good, and makes for excellent shoe polishing cloths once worn out.
Thank you for the reply, Simon.
I’m a fan of your tailored fits except in the case of this goat suede blouson. To my eyes it is a bit short in the body and sleeves and narrow in the shoulders. My preference is for suede to have a hint of a relaxed drape. A slightly relaxed fit gives suede a more luxurious and softer appearance enhancing the beauty of the skin.
Interesting point Gus. This is a size Small and I do like a close fit, particularly in a lightweight, unlined suede jacket like this one. One of the reasons I bought it was that the body and sleeves were not too short on me for a small size (which is therefore as neat as I like it through the body).
But your point about the luxuriousness of a fuller drape is a good one.
Great post Simon and very jealous of the jacket.
Out of interest what watch are you wearing in the pics, I remember you saying a while ago you had a IWC Portuguese and a Cartier, unless I’m mistaken I don’t think it’s either of those, would you mind revealing!!?
It’s a Rolex GMT-Master. There’s a post on my watches as part of a series here:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/05/how-to-buy-a-watch-part-2-my-watches.html
I think it’s quite a nice capsule collection, but then I would say that.
I agree, and i am envious of that GMT. This week I bought a brand new GMT “Batman” as some call it. The modern ones just are not the same. Too big and too chunky and very showy. I do not think some of the modern sports watches will age as well (well they are ceramic so wont age at all) – needless to say the watch is being sold.
Lovely color on the blouson.
Purple t underneath.
Great idea, I have a brushed cotton bomber as well as a dark brown leather one. I will have to try it out with them.
Simon,
I see in some of the posts comments about t shirts, fit and value
While I know it is your stick and trade, this is one area ‘bespoke’ is perhaps a little like using an S class Mercedes for pizza delivery. (Except for those with extreme body dimensions, I suppose)
Find a manufacturer you like (it should not take to many low cost investments) and stick with them.
I happen to think uniqlo makes fantastic t’s in a panoply of great colours, and Calvin Klein has excellent fitted ones (for me) ….
Look around, I am sure there is someone that can fit just about anyone, without have to buy the Swiss or Scandinavian brands…
I know what you mean about bespoke, although one advantage to that is also that the fit and make will always be the same. Part of the problem with RTW brands – including Sunspel,
American Apparel, Uniqlo, Albam and others I have used – is that they change every few seasons. I’d suggest it’s often worse with the designers too (and a bit of a Mercedes issue too there perhaps? )
Apart from just changing style fit also seem to be a problem with some of those brands. I bought a riviera polo from Sunspel in a medium, great fit and no issues. Bought another a year later.. Massive. Had to size down to a small which is a bit short.. why change it. I had the same issue with 2 riveria t-shirts on your rec. They are great but I had a navy and a grey, both were sized differently. I will ignore the cost of an item if i get consistency or quality and sizing (like smedley for instance) but if I am not getting that consistency I may as well go cheap and disposable.
where else would it be a good bet to look for a RTW blouson bar RL?
There are quite a few, but I’d start with Private White, Valstar and APC
Not Aero leathers?
Not for anything like this formal style, no. They are more akin to Chapal – have a look at my posts on Chapal and Seraphin, and comments underneath
Sorry I can’t edit posts
That’s ‘stock and trade’, obviously not ‘stick’
Hi Simon,
Is this from the current RLPL collection?
The Spring/Summer unfortunately so it may not be available anymore. I try to buy things at the start of the season and write about them then – but things are a lot cheaper in the sales!
Hi Simon,
What do you think of the James Bond Morocco suede jacket in the film Spectre?
I liked it in that ensemble although the collar could have been nicer. A larger one as with this RLPL one would have given it more character. The colour is also best suited to bright countries/seasons
Simon, what kind of material at your cream chinos? This is pure cotton, cotton with some elastane, or a mixture of cotton with linen? What material will be better and more versatile for spring/summer season?
And one more question, how can you compare the quality of cashmere sweaters Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana?
Thank you.
These are pure cotton. I usually prefer to an elastane mix. But cotton/linen is much nicer in the heat, and versatile.
Loro Piana is a lot better quality than Cucinelli…
How do you think this blouson would go with navy trousers?
It would be ok with navy chinos, but would look better with greys or natural colours like greens and tans.
And I wouldn’t wear it with navy dress trousers.
I’m asking because I tried wearing a lambskin jacket (not suede) in a similar shade (just a bit more grayish, less red) with navy chinos, and it looked horrible. I’m still trying to figure out why…
Thanks for your reply
Hi Simon
I’m thinking about buying a Valstarino suede jacket and am torn between a chocolate brown one and navy one. Which colour do you think would be the most versatile? To give a bit of context, i pretty much always dress casually and wear always wear brown shoes.
Thanks
Brown then, I would say.
Hi Simon, any recommedations on where to purchase suede for a bespoke jacket?
No, sorry, I’ve never bought suede at retail
Hi Simon,
Is the blouson you are wearing unlined, and is tobacco suede the most versatile color, trumping even dark brown?
Also, you can ignore my other question regarding the safari jacket. After some thought, it is too dandy for me and even unlined, would be too warm to wear during summer/spring as evidenced by your comment on your Cifonelli suede sports coat.
Yes, and no I’d say navy or dark brown would be the most versatile
Would you ever wear a summer hat with the suede blouson to protect your head from the sun and if so,which style would you choose?
Good question. Normally the only hat I’d wear in the summer would be a panama, and that would be too smart here. There are linen caps but I’ve never found one I liked. So I’d probably just go without, use suncream and seek more shade
Yes,I understand your feeling about a Panama but I’ve just tried on my suede jacket(similar to the Matchless Morocco jacket in Spectre) with a narrow brimmed Panama and also a brown straw trilby.I was surprised to find that they looked fine.I’ll have to confirm my feelings again when the weather warms up.
Definitely along the right lines with a narrow brim. That, a browner shade of the straw, and perhaps a more casual band, will be the things that help it work better by being more casual
Which do you prefer in terms of quality and use – this blouson jacket or your navy Stoffa and why?
The quality is similar, but I probably prefer this because I’ve found I don’t particularly like the style of that Stoffa jacket. It’s a little bottom heavy and unflattering I think, perhaps just on me because I’m tall
Hi Simon,
Would be great to know your thoughts on Drake’s Suede Chore Coat for the coming season? You can see it in this link: https://www.drakes.com/usa/clothing/coats-and-jackets/rust-heavyweight-suede-five-pocket-chore-jacket. I am considering getting it and would like to get your take on it, particularly:
1. Do you like the styling? Is it something you would personally wear?
2. The suede is very thick and not supple, and since I would usually look for the opposite, I wonder if this indicates a lack of quality or, better put, a focus on less desirable attributes?
As ever, thanks so much.
Sure. I quite like the styling but it is very casual. I’d think of it in the same kind of category as workwear, like a French-blue workwear jacket or Japanese chore coat. So not that associated with tailoring.
The suede is certainly thick, which means it is not the finest – but this isn’t necessarily good or bad quality, it just means it is again rather more casual. Like a coarser or slubby oxford shirting, which I love and we use in our PS Oxfords.
I really love the colour, though it is quite strong and unusual – so I wouldn’t recommend it if this is the only jacket you have of this type.
Hope that’s helpful.
Thanks very much, Simon. It is indeed very helpful. I was actually thinking of wearing this mostly with Armoury/Incotex chinos, dressier Rota cotton trousers as well as indigo and “natural” color denim. I do have other casual jackets, though not similar in style (except for linen overshirts for the hotter months). I am also a big fan of your PS Oxford and would wear it with this. Do you think that wardrobe would work? Would wearing this with gray flannels be pushing it too much? I cannot tell you how appreciative I am of your advice.
Yes I think that would work well – and no problem at all, just spread the word in return!
I assume you’ve seen this piece on how I style the Valstarino?
Thanks again! I saw that piece and straight after bought a dark brown suede Valstarino, which I love and do tend to wear mostly with tailored trousers given its length.
Great article Simon ! Impossible to find a similar jacket, any clue on how/where to get it ?
Not this particular one I’m afraid. I wish there were.
The suede jackets the Armoury do are quite similar though, in the collar at least.
Simon, would appreciate to get your thoughts on The Armoury’s suede blouson in olive green (https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-wright-jacket?variant=31838922965063). Already have a dark brown suede blouson and looking for something else. Thanks
If the question is mostly about the colour, I think you’ll find that good with denim, cream and dark greys, but not anywhere near as versatile as the dark brown, a navy, or a dark olive
Thanks. And as to the styling of the jacket? Do you like it?
Personally I prefer the tall, ribber collar of the Valstarino style, but that’s a small thing.
Hello Simon,
I am considering this Ralph Lauren Purple Label suede overshirt: https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clothing-outerwear/suede-overshirt/491478.html. Would be much obliged if you could share your thoughts on:
1. How would you compare this style in terms of versatility to a blouson?
2. Between the Estate Olive and the Truffle colors, which would you go for (assuming dark brown suede is already taken care of).
3. In your opinion, could this style be worn with denim?
Thanks in advance.
I love that piece JJ. The only question for me over it has always been price.
1. It’s more of a warmer weather piece than a blouson is, and not really as versatile. Though you could maybe wear it around the house, where you couldn’t with a blouson.
2. Estate Olive. I find dark green like that really useful.
3. With dark indigo denim yes
Thanks very much, Simon. Completely agree on the price, $2,400 is outrageous, as most Purple Label is when at full retail. Which is why the sale at $1,000 appeals.
Two final questions: would you style it as the model wearing the brown one does (i.e., tucked into flannels or other smart trousers)?
And, do you think one could wear an additional layer on top of it, for instance one of your Donegal coats?
Thanks again
God no, I wouldn’t tuck it in. It’s an overshirt, not a shirt. A suede shirt is hard enough, but this isn’t cut like a shirt.
But yes, a loose coat over the top would work. A bit of a look, given the material, but could still look good.
Hi Simon,
Instead of getting estate olive, if I were to get the truffle color suede overshirt, how kind of trousers color would it pair it with? Would you pair it with indigo jeans? Many thanks in advance for answering.
I wouldn’t wear it with indigo jeans, no, though most of these might be a little smart for that anyway. I wouldn’t wear olive that way either. If that’s the look you want, you’re better looking at the RRL western options.