This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries.
It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 18 tailors to the list.
I have also taken out a couple of names (Hemingway and Kiton) that really belong in a made-to-measure list – which I will put together later this year.
There are links in all the descriptions to posts elsewhere on the site, making this a useful jumping off point for anyone looking to research bespoke tailors. And the names of the tailors themselves are hyperlinked to their ‘brand’ page, where you can find all posts about them.
There are now 55 tailors here, which is too many by anyone’s standards. I certainly wouldn’t recommend that someone pursue this course towards bespoke, or maintain this number of tailors. One to three is more like it (see post ‘How many tailors do you need?‘).
However, hopefully it is a useful resource for anyone looking for personal experiences and reviews of the world’s best in bespoke.
Anyone that would like to see many of these tailors’ cuts analysed, with consistent measurements, should see the Guide to Tailors Styles.
UNITED KINGDOM
The biggest exponent of the ‘drape cut’, with soft shoulders and fullness of cloth in the chest and back. Together with a closely cut waist, it gives the illusion of a bigger chest and is very comfortable. Some think that the soft shoulders are unflattering. It is among the cheaper houses on the Row, and I particularly like the double-breasted style as it has a relatively broad lapel with plenty of belly. My suits from A&S were all cut by John Hitchcock, who has now retired.
Benson & Clegg have not been known for their bespoke department for a while, with a stronger reputation for their buttons, cufflinks and braces (they hold the royal warrant to Prince Charles for such things). That has changed recently, however, with Meyer & Mortimer cutter Oliver Cross joining the team. Oliver is in the process of making me a green-flannel suit, and his style is English structured with some drape – though also with an openness to adapt the make and cut.
The finest finish of any English tailors, learning from the French in their buttonholes among other things, Chittleborough was founded by two cutters from the legendary Tommy Nutter shop, where Edward Sexton was the head cutter. Roy Chittleborough is now retired, but Joe Morgan carries on cutting Sixties-inspired suits with large lapels, nipped waists and strong shoulders. My navy suit can be found here.
A highly traditional Savile Row tailor with a rich military history, Dege cuts a strong-shouldered, long jacket and usually braced trousers. Still family owned, they have benefited in recent years from turbulence at similar houses such as Huntsman. Cutter Nick De’Ath made me a superb tobacco-linen suit. And although the higher rise of the trousers didn’t quite work out the first time, he was accommodating on several other points.
Edward’s style is similar to that of Joe Morgan, but his finishing and stylistic details are less about things like lap seams and Milanese buttonholes, and more about colour and cloth. Edward made me a fantastic double-breasted flannel suit and a long grey overcoat. The former has proved very useful and the latter also, after it was shortened rather (by four inches) a year after making.
Davide Taub, of whose style I am a big fan, is the head cutter at Gieves. He trained at Maurice Sedwell among other places and tends towards a strong shoulder and silhouette. He is also very innovative, and has made several very original and stylish pieces for me, including my pea coat, leather jacket and gilet. For the purpose of this list, however, the most interesting piece is this green linen suit, which is striking for being light in construction, yet sharp in appearance.
A traditional City tailor in London. This means not making to the same standard as Savile Row, but doing the important things of cutting by hand and working up a personal paper pattern. Graham Browne is great value as as result, and I have had many things made over the years, including my first bespoke suit in London. (Another tailor, Choppin & Lodge, was an offshoot of Graham Browne but no longer exists. That team, together with Dan McAngus from Graham Browne, now runs McAngus & Wainwright.)
The other one of the big three names on the Row, it is more flexible in house style than either A&S or Huntsman. The basic cut is strong and English, however, with slightly less padding and structure in the shoulder and chest than Huntsman. I had a double-breasted Prince of Wales suit made, which has been quietly superb. It gets more compliments than almost anything else, yet it is conservative in everything by the cloth. (Subsequent to that post, I have had two additional buttons added at the top, and swapped all the buttons for brown horn rather than grey.)
The opposite of Anderson & Sheppard in style, with strong, padded shoulders and a closely cut chest. Relatively slim through the waist and with little skirt, it is known for a one-button fastening. Most other English tailors cut this traditional style, with slight variations. I liked the hunting suit I had made by David Ward, though had some problems with the bi-swing back, as the vents stayed open and elastic was added inside to fix that.
Kathryn used to be the head tailor at Gieves & Hawkes. Her style is, like Poole and others, a traditional English military cut. My travel blazer and trousers were cut by Kathryn Sargent while she was at Gieves. She has since set up her own premises, and made a beautiful tweed jacket for my wife there, which reflected her particular skill in women’s styles. Most recently, she made a summer suit in Fox Air cloth.
John and Terry work with Stephen Lachter (shirt cutter) on Sackville Street. Terry was head cutter at Huntsman and his style is very similar; John tends to cut a slightly smaller back and slimmer leg – sharper, in that way. John made my pattern and I have two suits from it, the second cut and fitted by Terry – hence the difference in styles noted above. The make was good and I would say they are among the best value on the Row.
Bryan Manning is an old tailor who used to work at Kilgour and has operated on his own for several years, meeting clients at Holland & Sherry on Savile Row or in workrooms on Tottenham Court Road. He is very good value for money, but the high-twist summer suit he made me had some issues, particularly around the finishing. The fit, however, was very good, and the suit was hand-padded and hand-finished throughout.
Michael is a young, stylish cutter who deserves credit for many of the good things that happened at Chittleborough & Morgan, before he set up on his own. Michael’s style is similar, but his mode of working – absolutely without compromise, including remaking every fitting himself – is not. His aim has been to produce the best possible garment, no matter what the cost. This means that the beautiful coat he made for me cost over £7000, but it does make Michael unique.
A city tailor, PA Crowe has a small shop near to St Paul’s cathedral. I worked close-by for several years and eventually had a pair of brown flannel trousers made. The results were not great, with the persistent issue I have of hollow fronts and bulging rear causing the trousers to lose their sharpness all too easily. Not bad if they were Graham Browne prices, but unfortunately they are rather more expensive.
Richard used to be the head cutter at Huntsman and his cut is similar, though with less padding in the shoulder. One difference is perhaps a more adventurous style; he makes jackets in denim, for example, and wool jersey, and has his own collection of jeans. Richard made me a tuxedo, single breasted with a shawl-collared waistcoat. It was slim and perfectly fitting, though my favourite part was the superb trousers.
Ben Clarke at Richard James has been growing the bespoke side of the business, which has its own dedicated premises on Clifford Street. Ben made a brown cashmere jacket for me, waistcoat and trousers, deviating from the normal Richard James style somewhat to make something softer and more casual. The waistcoat is self-backed and designed to wear with denim.
Son of A&S head cutter John Hitchcock, Steven was trained there and his style is very similar. As he works partly at home and on Chiltern Street in Marylebone, he is also a little cheaper. Steven has made me a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers, a beautiful pale-grey jacket from the Lamlana bunch, and more recently a fantastic charcoal donegal jacket. I would highly recommend him for this style of tailoring.
A much more contemporary cut than anyone else on this list – a short jacket, narrow sleeve and fitted waist. Famous for their horseshoe waistcoats. Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney are great stylists, with Thom the cutter. Their strength is style, youth and innovation. They made me a navy checked jacket and cord trousers several years ago, which fit very well (though I somewhat regretted the boldness of the windowpane check).
Tim is a stylist and designer, with a dedicated bespoke operation on Elder Street in east London. The style is traditionally English though with less structure; Tim adds a dash of innovation to the mix during the commissioning and fittings. The suit and velvet jacket I had made were both solid, but some minor issues and poor style choices on my part meant they were eventually given away.
Run by Indian brothers, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has an extremely good value service called Classic Bespoke that is cut in London but has some of the making work done in a workshop they own and have trained themselves in India. The result is perhaps the best place to start for any full bespoke suit. The full review of the navy worsted suit they made me can be seen here. They have also become my go-to location for bespoke trousers, given that value.
FRANCE
The biggest of the Parisian tailors, the Cifonelli cut is characterised by a light construction but a strength of shape achieved by a roped shoulder and slim waist. Stunning finishing on the buttonholes, trousers and linings. The Cifonelli designs aren’t always my taste, but the workmanship is among the best in the world. I’ve made several things with them over the years, starting with a tweed jacket. The best have been two overcoats, however, one navy and one brown.
Camps de Luca is a small but no less fine Parisian tailor, and made me a beautiful grey two-piece suit with their characteristic closed notch on the lapel and small Milanese buttonhole. Slightly square of shoulder, with a fantastically made trouser and exquisite detailing, they rival Cifonelli in most departments. Although they can seem more classic than Cifonelli, they do also make suede and leather pieces, and some unusual jackets for hot weather.
Kenjiro is Japanese, but used to be the head cutter at Smalto, the other big name in Paris after Cifonelli and Camps. His style is similar to the other French makers, with little personal touches like the amount of ironing to shape the leg of the trouser. Popular in his home country of Japan, Kenjiro is currently making me a navy cotton suit.
ITALY
A small, second-generation tailor in Naples. Elia Caliendo is the cutter and his father still does some of the tailoring work. Neapolitan style is fairly consistent, with self-lined jackets in the foreparts, very light construction, shirt shoulders and those curving pockets. The biggest difference between them is quality of finishing and fit, and Elia is superb on both. He visits London every month or so. I have had a summer jacket a Permanent Style tweed jacket and several other things made by Elia. He is in London often, which is a big advantage.
A Neapolitan trouser maker with a good reputation – and making trousers for some of the other Neapolitan tailoring houses – Marco Cerrato has started to expand more abroad with his brother in London handling a lot of commissions. Marco has made me a few pairs of trousers, including green cottons and pale-grey cavalry twills. Of the three Neapolitan trouser makers listed here, I’ve had the most consistent positive experience with them.
Renato Ciardi was one of the best-known cutters in Naples, and his sons have admirably carried on his work. Enzo now travels to London, and has become one of my favourite tailors ever, for his character, cut, and consistency. The cut is more traditional Neapolitan, which means slightly longer and more generous in the body and shoulder, while still being soft. My tweed jacket in particular was superb.
Most areas of Italy have a bespoke tailor or two left, unlike most other parts of the world, including England. In the Puglia area in the south-east, I visited a few and tried out Nicola Cornacchia, who was recommended to me by Vitale Barberis Canonico. The light-grey high-twist suit they made me was not world class, but it was very good, and I’d recommend them to anyone that find themselves in the area.
Sartoria Dalcuore are a slightly larger tailor in Naples, with a workshop supplying ready to wear garments to places like China and Japan, alongside traditional bespoke. They made me a brown Crispaire suit for the summer which was beautifully fitted and in a classic Neapolitan style – only lacking a couple of details like fit around the trousers that perhaps could have been corrected at a second fitting.
Ettore is a lesser-known Neapolitan tailor, but actually with a large workshop and international client base. He tends to cut a shorter, closer-fitting jacket, like many modern tailors, and I have had to fight back against that tendency. But he is a very talented cutter, and achieved great fit on the hopsack jacket and coat he made for me. Also works regularly in suede and leather.
Ferdinando Caraceni, one of four outfits doing bespoke in Milan and Rome under the Caraceni name, made me a cashmere herringbone jacket. A beautifully made piece, it was noticeably more formal than other Italians I had tried – more an unstructured alternative to a Row suit than a rival to Neapolitan casualness. Nicoletta Caraceni is the charismatic head of the house, Ferdinando’s daughter. The next piece, a double-breasted cotton jacket, was even better.
My experience with Formosa in Naples was not a very good one – but as with other negative experiences, it is hard to tell how much this should be a conclusion about the tailoring house as a whole. Gennaro wanted to try using two younger cutters for my jacket, whom he was training to take over from the senior cutter. What they made was not a good fit, and the subsequent attempt to correct it by the senior team was not sufficient. I eventually gave up on the jacket.
One of the biggest names in Romain tailoring, Gaetano has a strong international following. I haven’t had any suits made by him, but US writer Bruce Boyer penned a lovely piece for Permanent Style on his experiences, which can be seen here. His style is more similar to the northern tailors in Italy, but with a slightly softer shoulder expression than either.
Biagio Granata is a young cutter who set up his own operation a few years ago. Unfortunately, while clearly a good cutter, he suffered from a lack of consistency in visits to London, in execution of styles, and a lack of English. The suit he made for me had a decent jacket, but I never saw the trousers. The tweed jacket he made to improve the situation in the meantime, was a good fit in the top half, but had gaping vents. Hard to recommend on that basis.
The best-known tailor in Florence, Antonio Liverano cuts a short jacket and slim trousers. The house is quite contemporary in that respect, and has been popularised by the support of The Armoury in New York and Hong Kong. Antonio made me a purple jacket, which was beautifully executed – and a good example of a tailor guiding effectively on cloth. He is expensive, but I like his sense of style (he commissioned his own doughnut-patterned scarves) and the cut works well in smart jackets.
Gianfrancesco Musella was one of the young tailors I brought to our Symposium event in Florence, and no one better deserved the invitation. He is both highly skilled and genuinely innovative, bringing different flavours to the Milanese style. Gianfrancesco made me a navy cotton suit, in the same lightweight cotton as my brown Caliendo. It has striking lapels that I love, and great finishing. I like the style of the single-breasted jackets less.
Antonio Panico is one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring, and particularly known for his big double-breasted lapels and comfortable cut. I went for a grey-flannel suit, and really liked the style, though single-breasted. That comfort was also striking, with some shape through the waist at the front, but pretty much no suppression in the back.
Massimo Pasinato is a small tailor in the Italian town of Vicenza. He is a good cutter, and embraces technology when it can help him in the fitting process, for example. He made me a nice cavalry-twill suit, and also offers some made-to-measure on his travels. He has been travelling regularly to London, and if you are after a soft Italian suit that is very good value, similar to Vergallo, he is worth considering.
Nunzio Pirozzi runs a highly regarded tailoring house in Naples, and travels to London as well as to Asia. He made me a tan corduroy suit – very similar to an Anderson & Sheppard DB that I love, but single breasted and in the casual Neapolitan style. The result was very good in terms of fit and execution, but the style was a bit too short and close, and I ended up selling it, unfortunately.
Lino Pommella used to be the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci until, as often seems to happen with Rubinacci cutters, he left to set up on his own. In this case, it was with the help of filmmaker Gianluca Migliarotti, and the two have established something of a brand for high-end trousers – doing trunk shows in London and with The Armoury in New York, among other places.
The biggest name in Naples. An interesting take on Neapolitan style, with slightly more closed fronts and sometimes padding through the ends of the shoulders. Rubinacci’s strength is its styling. The cashmere Donegal jacket I had made from an old 70s cloth was good, with a great make and ok fit. But it was Luca’s recommendation of the bronze-green lining that made it for me.
Salvatore Ambrosi is easily the best known trouser maker in the world, travelling to dozens of cities around the world and working with shops like Brycelands. Salva makes to a very high level, better than most Neapolitans, with lovely hand detailing. He also has style, which helps rather with commissions. My experience was quite inconsistent though, with a few mistakes along the way.
One of the biggest names in Neapolitan tailoring. Gennaro Solito is a great cutter; he speaks no English but his son, Luigi, does. Their style is typical Neapolitan though they do a large number of regular (not shirt) shoulders too. Luigi has made me a few jackets since he started visiting London with Neapolitan shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, including the first – a lightweight green sports jacket. The make hasn’t always been great, with a few things needing repairs, but he is also a little cheaper than others.
A local tailor from the town of Varese, north of Milan, Vergallo has become a bigger name in tailoring since cutter Gianni Cleopazzo began travelling to London. A north Italian style, so softer than English but sharper than the Neapolitans, Vergallo made me a navy cashmere suit and houndstooth jacket. There is an openness on style and cut; not the highest level of make among Italians, but good value.
Loris Vestrucci was a retired tailor, brought out of hiding by Tomasso Melani and Tomasso Capozzoli of Stefano Bemer shoes, in order to create a new bespoke tailoring house. Vestrucci has a claim to make the original Florentine suit, and his tailoring is soft but elegant, with rounded hips and relatively closed quarters. He made me a charcoal-flannel suit here.
Ciro Zizolfi was introduced to me by Gianluca Migliarotti, the filmmaker and long-time client. Ciro cuts a fairly traditional Neapolitan jacket, which means a comfortable fit, a little padding in shoulders, and overall a little longer and squarer than others. The great fit of my dark-green tweed jacket can be see in the images here.
SPAIN
The best of the three Spanish tailors I tried, Calvo de Mora made a closely fitted grey jacket, a self-backed grey donegal waistcoat, and green cotton trousers. The jacket was quite close through the skirt and soft in the shoulder, although not as casual as a Neapolitan make. Unfortunately Calvo don’t travel to London or anywhere else regularly. They are the most expensive of the Spanish tailors here, perhaps inevitably given the quality.
Sastreria Langa are best known for their shirtmaker, Mariano, who has a long and storied list of customers. The shirt he made was well-fitted, if quite formal and stiff in the collar, with a good deal of handwork. The linen suit cut by Joaquin was a lovely piece, largely because of the colour of the Scabal linen. The jacket itself could have been made better and there was an issue with the shoulders – partly due to trying to create a Neapolitan look.
Reillo is a small tailor – one cutter, Jose Maria, with some help with making at the back of the shop. Like Langa he is good value for money, although the green cotton suit that we made together suffered rather in the shoulders. Partly, as with Langa, this was due to trying to create a very soft, Neapolitan-style jacket, which is not the natural style the Spanish tailors were trained on.
HONG KONG
A team based in Hong Kong, Taipei and London, but using a tailoring workshop in China. There have been many tailors over the years that have relaunched and rebranded in Hong Kong, making use of young tailoring enthusiasts, but The Anthology is one of the best. Modern, with a generous cut and great style (thanks to founder Buzz Tang). Some small hangovers from cheaper production, but superb value and a cut that I particularly like and find flattering. The Anthology team made me a grey-herringbone tweed suit.
Back in the days when I travelled to Hong Kong a lot, and had less money, I tried three or four different cheap HK tailors. Edward Tam at E.Italian was the best, at around £300 for a suit. The cut is rather little boxy but if you’re insistent, it can be a good choice for that price. Cut by hand and made by hand, with a fitting or two required. Not to anywhere near the same standard as bespoke elsewhere (try WW Chan or similar for that) but not a rip-off 24-hour tailor either.
Prologue is a Hong Kong shop making in China – now in its own workshop – with a very good, modern sense of style. Similar to The Anthology in that respect, but deliberately making at a slightly lower level in order to be as accessible as possible. Jerry and the Prologue team have made me a green summer jacket and a heavy glen-check winter one.
One of the best-known tailors in Hong Kong, and the only old name that has really adapted to the modern growth of interest in bespoke – thanks in no small part to The Armoury. They also make for Bryceland’s, however, and it was trying the Bryceland’s cut that made me commission a jacket from WW Chan. We have had one fitting so far on this.
AMERICAS
Paolo is a young tailor in New York – a place with a historic lack of resident tailors – but with lots of experience in tailoring factories and shops, having helped run the custom programme at Paul Stuart for several years. His natural style is for an English-derived, drapey cut, but he is also very flexible and enjoys making things that fit customer ideas. He is not a cutter, but unlike many in New York, he does employ a cutter and tailor, who work off-site. We are currently making a navy blazer together.
Sr Francesco is an Italian tailor resident in Toronto, Canada. After working on his own there for many years, he was brought into the new Leatherfoot store when it opened, and given his own workshop. The store promoted his tailoring, and took him on trunk shows to New York. Unfortunately the store has subsequently closed. Sr Francesco made me a double-breasted donegal-tweed jacket, which I haven’t covered on the site as he is no longer available to customers outside Toronto.
SOUTH KOREA
Korean tailor B&Tailor works through various visiting tailors in different parts of the world, in order to conduct fittings. In Europe, that was Swede Robin Petterson, who went to Korea for training in fitting their jackets. Unfortunately, while I liked the open, sloping B&Tailor style, the fit of the resulting jacket was not great – at least partly due to some lack of communication between Robin and B&Tailor. I therefore wouldn’t necessarily say that poor result was a direct reflection of the Korean tailor’s work.
Dear Simon,
I am a relative newcomer to your blog and have found it to be a veritable treasure trove of interesting and useful pointers on personal tailoring and gentlemen’s dress. However, I notice that many of your articles on ‘English’ tailoring tend to be overwhelmingly focused on London and its immediate confines. This is understandable, given that the metropolis is obviously your place of residence and home to the some of the country’s best tailoring houses, but perhaps of limited use to those of us who don’t live in the South East and would like some help and advice on locating a tailor closer to home.
I am getting married in the summer and would love to know if you could recommend any tailors in the North of England who offer a bespoke service starting in the £1,000 – £2,000 range? I haven’t the time, or the inclination to make the 2-3 six hour roundtrips that would be required to visit a tailoring establishment in London and the cost of rail fares would increase the overall price of the suit by 10 – 15%. I’m therefore looking for someone good, and reasonably priced, who is located anywhere between Sheffield and Edinburgh.
After trawling through numerous online forums I have come up with the names of a countless businesses offering what appears to be factory-made M2M, and of the provincial outlets of Savile Row-trained tailors like Thomas Mahon and Steed, but there appears to be very little in between. Can you help, or am I simply searching for a mythical Northern tailor who doesn’t actually exist?
Regards
Matt
There may be some, but they will be very rare and I’m afraid I’m never going to be a good source, living in London.
There is a bespoke tailor in Lincoln with 25 years savile row experience, at Timothy Everest and Davies and son. his name is Andrew J musson. Hope that helps
Matt,
I sympathise with your problem being a resident in the Midlands. I recently found a small tailoring business locally only to find he is retiring soon and has stopped making garments and has not been able to find anyone to carry on the trade. I do know of Timothy James Henderson who has a premises in Baslow, Derbyshire who purportedly has a fully bespoke service you may be interested in. He has a website and does answer e-mails. He also. Travels around the Midlands, I believe for appointments. Best wishes for the wedding.
I have used Mullen & Mullen of 16, High Petergate in York close to the Minster .
They are worth a try and are in your price range and are online also .
They can also travel to your residence or place of work if required.
Please tell us more about Mullens and where its garments are made. There is not much information on the website. My guess is that the tailoring is sub-contracted to firms in and around Leeds.
Do you know anything about Carl Stuart? The firm has a large factory and shop in Osset near Wakefield plus another shop in Huddersfield. I have heard that it subcontracts for Savile Row and other tailoring firms.
Desmond Merrion is tops and in Rawdon
No longer there I’m afraid. I live quite close. The shop looks to have shut down.
Des is now working from home (Pontefract) and still very much active.
This is a point I’ve made to Simon myself on several occasions .
Unfortunately from what I’ve seen outside of London there are a lot of MTM outfits masquerading as ‘bespoke tailors’ and , to make matters worse, charging BEYOND Savile Row London bespoke prices (a simple google search for Birmingham ‘tailors’ will show this ) .
Which is one of the reasons Simon’s input is so necessary in travelling to the regions.
I’ve even politely challenged some (I consider myself a little educated in these matters from reading PS ) at which point the reply has been a rather disparaging paraphrasing of “what do you know !?” .
Yes, a trait I’ve found some tailors share with chefs ….. blunt and rude when challenged with facts.
P.S.
Simon, would be useful if you could pick one from each country which would be your go to if you were starting out on a limited budget(£1500 -£2000) to buy your first suit.
Dear Simon,
i need to buy a couple of new suits
i have never spent a lot on suits (maybe £500ish; some fella who came to the office), but am willing to stretch a bit now
i am 53, and don’t wear a suit often. Need one for work once a week. Board meetings etc. Single breasted. Classic. Medium weight cloth.
i am tall (6’4″) and a few kg the wrong side of where i should be. My intention (has always been) is to lose a few kilos. I would want to be able to accommodate that, should i be successful!
Price? I was originally thinking less than £1k, but can now (having read some of your pages) see myself stretching to a bit more.
I live in Notting Hill and work near St Paul’s, so Savile Row or somewhere close is ideal.
Separately, I see you are having/had a cashmere blazer made. I used to have one, bought off the peg at Harrods, but it was nicked at a restaurant. I would love to replace it. What should i do?
Found your site by accident. Love it!
Any advice, much appreciated,
Yours,
Bob
ps is there such a thing as a “special offer” with any of your recommended tailors?
Hi Bob,
I congratulate you on starting down this path. It will take a while, but be very rewarding.
I would advise a fair amount of reading of the site over the next couple of weeks, and then coming back with some more specific questions. There are lots of elements here, from the suit you want to the tailor you choose. Both could take dozens of posts.
Let me know
Simon
Hello, Re. Northern Tailors. I thought I would mention Michelsberg Tailors in Leeds. whilst I don’t have direct experience I understand that his work is of a good quality and reasonable price.
Stephen.
I had a number of things made by James Michelsberg while I was living in the North of England. His products are MTM rather than bespoke. However, jackets are full canvas rather than fused and definitely the best MTM I’ve had (better than a MTM suit I had from a very well known Saville Row establishment, for example). I thought that value for money was good (if I remember correctly’ suits started at about £900 and jackets at about £650, but don’t hold me to that!). James is a very likeable person and, in my experience, places great emphasis on customer service. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend him.
Michelsberg tailoring was a great entry for me as an 18 year old interested in tailoring but never being able to afford full bespoke prices, highly recommend him for his work after having a suit, separate jacket and trousers and the mtm shirt i bought for my dad and myself as a birthday present. Wonderful service too!
LB
Re Northern Tailors Cock of the Walk Hull full bespoke made on the premises saville row trained cutter/owner. Brookes tailors Bernard Castle again full bespoke made on the premesis
Simon,
Did you ever do a full article on the Richard Anderson dinner suit? It would be interesting to read, but couldn’t find it.
Did you go for vents on the DJ or ventless?
Thanks,
S
Hey,
I didn’t, it was in The Rake but not on PS. I’ll do something later in the year perhaps.
Vents for me. I don’t like the tubular nature of a ventless jacket.
Simon
Morning, I’ve had a good read through your blog and found it to be very interesting and a glimpse into the world of suits. I am getting married in June and me and my best man are looking for a taylored suit that will look great for the wedding but would also be usable afterwards. I particularly like the blue suit you have had made. Here comes the problem we probably have up too £550 to spend. I’ve got an appointment with cad and the Andy, are there any otheres that you could recommend I don’t mind where in London as I would rather get a better suit than pay for the name when I can’t afford that. I would be greatfull if you could offer me any advice. Thanks you.
Youre looking at made to measure for that price. Go see as many makers as you can, and look up on here points about assessing MTM…
Dear Simon,
I have decided to take the plunge and have my first bespoke suit made. My means do not allow me to go to Savile Row, but I think Graham Browne prices could work for me. I am looking to pay less than 2000 pounds for a genuinely bespoke 2 pieces suit.
I have heard of other tailors in the same price range and I wondered if you had had a chance of experimenting with any of them since you wrote this post? I am thinking of people like Chris Kerr, Sims & MacDonald, etc.
Also you wrote that you had all your alterations made at Graham Browne – is that still the case, and would they take on alterations on OTR suits from someone who is not a bespoke client? I have a couple OTR suits that I would like to improve where possible, so as to bridge a bit of the gap between the upcoming garments and the older ones.
Thank you in advance.
F.
I’d certainty go to them for bespoke at that level – next up is more like 3000. And yes, it’s fine to do alterations there
Hi, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is a great one to have in mind. Simon wrote a great article on their Classic Bespoke offering. You would be looking at around ~£1.7k. Best value for money in my opinion for a first bespoke suit (even more so than Gordon Brown as the make and fit is much more comparable to Savile Row tailors).
Cheers,
M
I’d definitely second that. I’ve found W&S to be consistently excellent, both in terms of quality and value for money.
Hi Simon,
Will you ever do a review of Chris Kerr? He was highly recommended to me by Ten Group Concierge and I have found him to be a truly excellent tailor, from the service to perfectly fitting suits and jackets. He also stocks a great range of fabrics, including the Caccioppoli bunches you’ve mentioned are quite hard to come by in London.
I have looked at some of the other tailors you have featured, but I have been so impressed with his skills, that for pretty much this whole year I have been going back to him for all my tailoring needs. I don’t feel like I need to go anywhere else.
He doesn’t blow his own trumpet, so it would be great to get your take on his work.
Best regards,
Shan
It is funny you mention Chris Kerr. I asked in one of the places recommended by Simon for pressing suits as to whom they thought was a very good tailor and Chris Kerr’s name came up. So I don’t think you are alone.
As I’m not in a position to go down the bespoke road just yet, I have in the past purchased very well made second hand garments with an eye towards having them altered. The challenge however has always been in finding a skilful tailor willing to carry out the necessary work. Now that I live in London (East End) it seems the only options available are Saville Row or Dry Cleaner Seamstress. Is there anyone in between and if so who??
Try Graham Browne…
Dear Simon,
I follow you blog with interest and was wondering if you could advise on my attire and a tailor.
I was looking to have two pice suit done for my summer wedding. This will be a relaxed affairs and no matching groomsmen attire.
I am contemplating a made to measure service by Gieves & Hawke or alternatively Graham Brown. Some of the other tailors you recommend such Kent & Haste come in a little to pricey.
Do you have any thoughts on the matter? Whom would you choose in London for getting a great suit with some consideration of value for money?
With regards to cloths I was thinking of a mid blue, Scabal 280 gr. Any thoughts on this?
Your suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Kind regards
Samuel
Hi
It’s worth reading my posts separately on GB and Gieves – I can only summarise here. All provide value for money to a certain extent though, it’s just a question of what you want. Also read the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury posts to show how limited the choices are.
On cloth, again read previous posts on wedding outfits. Mid- to pale grey is often nicest.
Hi Simon,
I noticed that your review of Liverano is not up-to-date as it still talks about you waiting for your purple jacket. Can you please provide an update after having experienced their jacket and worn it for a period of time?
Thanks!
Hey. Yes, sure thing. Apologies for the delay on that
In respect of Graham Browne how has you overcoat held up over the years? It is the next thing i am interested in having made. I have an idea in my head how I want it to look which would not fit with some of the more traditional houses, (nothing outlandish or dandy, just a double breasted overcoat in length with great coat style lapels) so being GB are up for a bit of experimentation I thought they might be the ones to try. Thom Sweeney made my suit recently and I have been very happy with them but I would like to experiment with other tailors.
It has held up very well – and the fit was great. If I could do it again, I would flatten the lapels like my Cifonelli one, so they could sit under my chin when the collar is folded up.
GB made me an overcoat too, it’s the best GB piece they’ve made for me. However, in general their work was very inconsistent (trousers varied a lot in size!) and I found them not always honest to me as a customer. E.g. they cut a pair of patterned trousers the wrong way in order to save cloth. I did not realize until another tailor told me the stripes and checks were askew. I haven’t used them since and if I were you would certainly stick to Sweeney!
Hi Simon,
This is a very helpful list. Looks like Dege & Skinner is missing on the UK side? The tobacco linen suit you commissioned from them looked very nice.
And hopefully Maurice Sedwell will make it to the list at some point! No secret that I am a big fan of Andrew Ramroop (head cutter / owner) and it is probably one of the most interesting British tailors out there which have not been covered yet on Permanentstyle.
Cheers,
M
Good spot! I’ll add it now
If I may suggest, Simon, what would be helpful for readers is also to have price points for the various tailors.
Cheers,
Moez
Thanks. They do change though – a lot since 2012
Certainly although I still think it would be very useful to point out the latest update you have on price and precise the date (probably your last commission) as it gives a sense to people directionally. This list is exhaustive but the price point is rather wide between the various tailors. We all agree that value is not equivalent to price but price still is a big factor of the purchasing decision…
Cheers,
M
Hi Simon,
even though this does not relate to suits. When can we expect the final Report on your Charvet Shirt?
Best,
Josua
As above – coming soon, apologies for the delay
At Maurice Sedwell, all of the employees evenly split cutting and sewing all of the garments that they offer. Outside of braces, belts, pocket squares, hosiery, boots and shoes, garments with artwork (copyrighted or otherwise) and garments that are too personal (such as lingerie, though they do make sleepwear that isn’t too personal), they’ll make any garments you want them to make.
Maurice Sedwell currently has 56 employees (half of them men and half women). All of the information about Maurice Sedwell that I share is from an exchange of emails with Andrew Ramroop (the current owner).
In fact, any information about any bespoke boot and shoe maker and bespoke clothing maker that I share is from an exchange of emails with the current owner.
Correction, Maurice Sedwell currently has 112 employees, not 56. Sorry about the mistake.
Of course, Maurice Sedwell has 56 employees at a time working and 56 at a time off from work.
Oh, all of Maurice Sedwell’s employees are on their payroll. There’s no freelance.
Very useful summary of the main players in the bespoke business, thanks. I will certainly refer to this post in future.
By the way, when are we going to hear about the Charvet bespoke shirt? Or did I miss that post?
You didn’t, and apologies there’s a stack of things I need to shoot
That’s just what I’m looking for in regard to RTW !
Bravo, Prof. Crompton!
I don’t have the money I used to for tailored clothes so was looking for a good reliable (not necessarily flash) affordable tailor that I could start to use, heard about quite a well established tailor called C Antoniou on Gray’s Inn Road (been there for several decades). I called and made a few enquiries and was told he makes a fully canvassed, bespoke suit for £1,200! It sounded a little too good to be true, have you heard anything good or bad about this place Simon (or anyone else reading the blog)? Cheers.
Nothing I’m afraid, sorry
After beginning reading this blog a few years ago (I have learned a ton, thank you Simon) I took many suits, trousers, jackets and an overcoat for alteration to Mr. Antoniou. His alteration work is super, he is very experienced and delivers just what I want – he altered a new OTR jacket recently. He gets five stars on that front from me. It is evident from his shop that he is making bespoke regularly, but I have not yet tried something – I have followed Simon’s guidance and been using graham brown and Sartoria Vergallo to date. However, I think in due course I will try Mr. A. with something. Hope that helps.
I had my first two suits made by Mr Antoniou in 1992 and I still wear them today (December 2016)! I have been going back to him ever since and he has made for me by now some 16 suits and 3 or 4 tweed jackets. The quality of his work is overall very good, fully bespoke and lots of handwork. His work can sometimes be a bit inconsistent though and he basically only cuts a traditional English suit. So if you are looking for something fancy or extraordinary you better go somewhere else.
Hey thanks Glanton! Very good of you to reply to my message. I’ve been going round in circles not being able to find decent RTW and not having the money to spend that I used to on bespoke. I really need some trousers made as I’m making do with only a couple of pairs which fit now! Does he cut a nice trouser? I like a traditional trouser with a high waist, pleats (which are surprisingly difficult to get right!) and usually wear braces. On your saying he only does a traditional English cut that’s fine in my book as I like traditional English tailoring and actually don’t want or need anything fancy! (no Peter Stringfellow leapord suits for me 🙂 ) Cheers.
Hi Simon,
The idea of taking stock of your experience with bespoke tailors is an excellent one! Somehow if I were living in London and decided to go down the route of bespoke tailoring, I think, I would start with Graham Browne as a good way to sound the waters in this area before moving upwards. Even though at first sight, I feel Richard Anderson or even Thom Sweeney closer enough to my taste in matter of style.
Aside note: personally, I find your navy checked jacket made by Thom Sweeney amazingly well cut! And it’s not that bold as you seem to believe. Just the right amount of boldness really bearable even by a French!
John
Very helpful list — PS at its best. Many thanks
Hi Simon,
I am no expert but is there not one major flaw in your approach here: namely, you should judge a tailor/house only after the second suit, not the first suit. Unless glaring errors are made, it takes time for a customer and tailor to develop.
True, and with many I have had second pieces made too. But I do feel you can still tell much from a first suit
Hi Simon,
Any experience with Davies & Son on the Row?
No, afraid not
Hmmm, No man ( or woman) should have this much clothes or use this much tailors.
Still, it is interesting i suppose.
Simon,I know this is perhaps the wrong thread to comment in but have you ever wanted to try out Cesare Attolini?I know the cover RTW but would be interesting to hear what are your thoughts on them (especially since youve tried Kiton)
I haven’t particularly wanted to, as I know what they do pretty well, but I do plan to see them next time I’m in Naples to pick up any interesting points or differences with other Neapolitan RTW and MTM
Hi Simon,
I have some questions regarding Marco Cerrato’s work:
In terms of quality, details and finishing how do his trousers differ or compare to that of Solito, Ambrosi?
Hoe much does he roughly charge for a pair of trousers?
And do you know when he will be visiting London again for his trunk show(s)?
Thanks.
F.
Hi. I have a post coming up that will run through all of this. He will be here on October 5th
Cheers
Hey, do you think the post will come out before the 5th of October? It would be helpful to have an idea about price / contact details before he comes to London to potentially book an appointment.
Cheers
M
Yep, absolutely
A piece on regional tailoring has been mooted a number of times in the past – any plans to commission suits in outside London if that post ever gets off the ground?
To be honest, I don’t think so no. The problem is that those local tailors are really only going to be of relevance to people that are more local – which is a very small part of the readership. People may travel to London, but are unlikely to do so to those other places. And most of the tailors I’ve covered travel around the world as well, which again the local tailors don’t.
I’m happy to try and put together a list based on anecdotal evidence, but trying a sufficient number of them is unlikely.
I’d challenge the assumption that regionally-based tailors are only likely to be of interest to comparatively small people living in their immediate vicinity.
If you take the two tailors that I’ve most experience with – Tom Mahon and Des Merrion – both seem to spend considerable amounts of time either in London or abroad (principally in the US) and so would presumably be potential options for people living beyond the north of England.
You may argue that regional tailors do not have the same commercial cache as ones operating on the Row, but then neither does Graham Browne or the other off-Row London tailors you’ve covered.
Thanks Matt. I agree, though I think Tom and Des are exceptions in that sense.
Simon: it might be worth looking into several regional tailors that have strong pedigrees and travel extensively (like Tom – I used to enjoy reading his English Cut blog before he lost control of the English Cut brand name…)
Tailors that are London-trained but set up shop outside of London can offer a lot of value. These tailors (like Tom) have the skills and pedigree but are often able to offer lower prices because it’s much cheaper to set up shop in the north or in the countryside than it is in London.
Hi Simon,
Did you ever end up adding additional buttons to the Henry Poole DB?
Nope… it rather feels like part of its character now. Interesting how that happens.
Hi Simon:
From what I’ve read and from your posts I gather that Cifonelli and Camps de Luca are probably the one of the best, if not the best, of bespoke tailors. You mentioned that CdL is more square in the shoulders and have a very distinct lapel shape; whereas Cifonelli has its famed Cifonelli shoulder. But for someone who wants to splurge on one perfect suit, are there any pros and cons of each house and how do you go about picking between the two?
That would take a separate post probably Vincent. But I would recommend going to see both of them and seeing the styles first hand before making that choice, if you can
Hi Vincent, I would warn against ‘splurging’ on just one suit from these makers. You are right to identify both as excellent, but the first suit is unlikely to be ‘perfect’ from either (I have tried both). I am not entirely sure why, but I find that it takes at least one suit (if not two) for even a great tailor like these to ‘understand’ a client fully. One garment will be very nice, but the second or third will be great!
Simon: I am wondering how you would compare the style of Solito versus the other Neapolitans you have used?
Dear Simon,
I’m planning on having an Olive green SB summer suit made up in Naples. Do you think this would be better in linen or cotton? Any recommendations for a fabric? I understand that selecting the correct type and weight of fabric is key… Thanks in advance
I would go for cotton or linen if its a whole suit. And I’d go for linen if you want something more sartorial, elegant, and cotton for a little more comfortable and contemporary
Thanks, Simon, it will be a whole suit. And I think you’ve tempted me with cotton! Can you suggest a cotton that might work?
Have a look at the Caliendo cotton suit I wrote about recently. Cloth from Holland & Sherry
I am wondering if the reason why A&S is a cheaper option on the Row is because it has slighly less handwork when compared with Huntsman or continental option suvh as Liverano?p
Not these days, no, unless you count the extra density of pad stitches in the chest as less handwork.
Can you elaborate on your dismissive comment regarding Attolini? Do you really not rate them?
It was not meant to be dismissive, and I certainly do rate them in some ways. They do a huge amount of handwork in their suits and I like the Neapolitan style. I generally also prefer their style to Kiton, for example.
Hi Simon
I understand that you live in London and hence most of your tailor reviews are for that area. I am due to get married next year and I am looking for a MTM suit with a budget of £1,200 for a three pice suit. Can you recommend any tailors in the North of England. Have you heard of any of the following; Carl Stewart Huddersfield, Rhodes-Wood tailors, Steed tailors, Richard Smith Manchester?
If you are able to offer some assistance that would be much appreciated.
Thanks
J
I’m afraid I don’t do much on MTM Jav, so I wont be able to help, sorry. As a side point, it is very hard to provide reviews of MTM services as they change frequently, and are often inconsistent in quality (eg which new salesperson takes your measurements). Bespoke tailors are much easier
No problem. Thanks for your reply.
I reckon the £1,200 budget for a 3pc would not be enough for bespoke, would you agree?
No, there are certainly options. Search on this site for Graham Browne, which would certainly be within budget. And for a little bit more (but fantastic value), Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.
If it’s any help, Jav, I know people who have MTM from Steed and Des Merrion who are more than happy with the outcome, and they fit well within your price range.
Hi Nick
Looking at Des he offers a semi bespoke option woth a full floating canvas and a new pattern rather than existing pattern like typical m2m from about £1,400. Would this effectively be a bespoke suit then?
Thanks
J
Jav,
I can highly recommend Des. The main differences between his bespoke and semi bespoke option are the amount of hand-sewing that goes into each suit, the construction of the canvass and possibly the number of fittings.
I live in the north and mucked around for years trying trailing back and forth to London for fittings etc., so I’m glad I found out about him.
The only note of caution I would sound is that, as a virtual one man band, he is pretty busy and you may be waiting 4 -5 months from order to collection of the finished suit, so make sure you get in early.
Hi Jav
I know Des does not outsource any of his work, so I imagine you would get your own pattern rather than an adjusted block but a lot less handwork than his bespoke, hence the lower price.
Jav, MacAngus & Wainwight (mentioned in the bit about GB) will be in your budget: https://macangus-wainwright.com/pricing
Simon: now that you have had a a few garments made from Solito, I am curious to know how you would rank home versus the other Neapolitans?
I would largely recommend the other Neapolitans first, but if budget is a big concern then Solito are cheaper generally
Thank you, Simon. I want to commission some more Neapolitian garments but I guess I am struggling with whether they are for “jacketings only” rather than suitings. I wonder if the Neapolitan cut is simply too informal for a serious business environment. Or maybe, provided the suit jacket length covers the seat, suitings could work. Thoughts?
I think they can certainly work for suits, yes. Obviously it depends on your office, but in a conservative fabric it can be a really nice, subtle style point
Ahh so happy to have read this Simon, I’m planning a trip to Italy next year. Will definitely visit the tailors you’ve mentioned above 🙂
Regards,
William Jenkins | https://mrjenks.com |
among all the suits you have, who is the maker of your favourite suit?
Impossible to answer I’m afraid…. Have a look at the ‘how many tailors should you have’ post. That has some more details on which I love for which different reasons
For what it’s worth Chee, I think the Taub G&H dark green linen is an absolute work of art. Davide Taub is a maestro and I don’t think I’ve seen Simon look better in any other suit. If you haven’t read the review it’s well worth taking a look.
Dear Simon,
Are you aware of/can you recommend any good value bespoke tailors in the Netherlands? Thank you for your response and great website!
Best regards
Marc
No, sorry Marc
No personal experience, but I’ve seen nice suits from Ettemadis in Den Haag (and the guy who makes my shirts in Germany vouches for him…).
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this list. I recently visited A&S to commission a suit. I have traditionally used Italian tailors but am keen to find a row tailor as well since moving to London.
The cutter I met was young (perhaps 6 years experience). How would you recommend one navigates the bigger houses with multiple cutters? My preference would be to go with the head or most experienced cutter but would appreciate your thoughts on how much of a difference it makes and how to approach this with the house.
Also, would Steven Hitchcock be a good alternative to A&S in terms of make and fit? I like the though of going to independent tailors but don’t want to compromise quality despite cost difference.
Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry much about seniority at a big house like a and s. Everything will be overseen and managed by the head cutter anyway. Steven would be a good alternative yes, no real difference in quality
Dear Simon
I wanted to know your thoughts on the drape cut for a heavy set body shape. I am 5’10, deep chested and very thick in the thigh. The drape cut appeals to my eye but I wondered if the filling of the chest area would be unflattering on someone who maybe needs the opposite. I have used Timothy Everest bespoke in the past and have dabbled with various MtM offerings since but I’ve never been totally happy, jackets sitting away from the chest being a common unflattering problem. In your opinion would a sharper house style work better for me from say Kent&Haste.
Any suggestions much appreciated
Lloyd
It depends what you mean by work better, really. A drape cut will emphasise the chest more, and its soft shoulder will make that slightly more rounded.
I wouldn’t discount it on that basis, and it’s worth going to A&S and trying one if you can to see the effect. Perhaps by comparing that to the Everest you already have will give you a good idea.
Certainly MTM for your figure sounds tricky.
Lloyd,
I have to jump in here because I have a similar shape.
There are some real misnomers kicking around about ‘The Drape’ cut.
Skinny guys sometimes like it because they think that it gives them an impression of upper body strength – they want effectively what we’ve got. Consequently they assume that it isn’t for us because we either don’t need it or, it will make us look too big.
Not true, the reverse is the case. On a big chested guy (I’m 42”), ‘The Drape’ softens things and gives you a more fluid shape – much less the nightclub bouncer !
And A&S are certainly the king of ‘The Drape’ wether it be SB or DB.
I also think their cut gives our Italian brethren a run for their money. It’s a truly soft and natural look. Not like the militaristic look of some Saville Row practitioners.
If your budget doesn’t stretch to A&S, an alternative I’d heartily recommend is Anglo-Italian MTM. They have a lot of drape in their house style. They recently cooked me up a 3 seasons SB. I love it and at £1,800 it is great value.
Hey Simon,
How would you rate the make of Solito & Calends etc to Thom Sweeney?
The reason I ask is that TS also do a neapolitan shoulder if desired and they’re based in the UK, and there isn’t much information with regards to the make of Thom Sweeney in comparison to other houses.
The make of Caliendo is certainly on a par. However, while Thom Sweeney will do a Neapolitan shoulder, the style is still different in other ways – line of cut and canvas etc
The tailors names which you have given in this blog are the famous and the best tailor! I was not knowing about this much tailors but after reading this blog i come to know about tailors and information about the tailors. Thank You!
Dear Simon,
I am looking at the work of Neapolitan tailors and noticed that in a previous thread you mentioned having tried Panico, and said it was excellent, but then didn’t elaborate on your experience, nor include him in this post. Could you please share your thoughts on his work and how you think he relates to his fellow Neapolitan tailors? This would be very helpful!
I don’t remember saying that Luis. I actually just started a suit with Panico, but I can’t say much about it yet
Thank you very much for your reply Simon, and I look forward to read your thoughts about your upcoming Panico suit!
(Btw, not that it is any important, but the comment I referred to was a reply dated 02/05/2013, found in the “Solito Jacket” post thread: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2013/05/solito-jacket.html )
All the best and please keep up the great work!
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
Have you or are you planning to have anything made by Henry Rose?
I understand he is old school, having worked with the likes of Doug Hayward and Edward Sexton.
Best
Joel
No, sorry
Simon,
Interesting that Germany plays no role on this list and hardly any on PS. Is it a sartorial desert? If so, I wonder why. You’d think such a major economic power would have some kind of a market for high-end menswear…
Yes, good point. There are some tailors, but not many. In general, outside the UK most countries tend to have more surviving tailors and general handcrafts in less developed economies, eg the south of Italy. Italy also has the biggest menswear industry of course, which helps.
I have a few friends in Germany that know the local business though, so perhaps I can write something in general about the country at some point.
Marcus’ comment about Germany (to which I would add Swiss-Germany) is not clear because he doesn’t treat the obvuous fact that Germans and Swiss have different taste for clothes than British and perhaps Italians do.
Dear Simon,
Do you know tailors in Freiburg i. Br., Germany or in Basel or Bern?
I don’t know any who were trained in London.
No, I know very few in the whole of Germany, that’s why it would be interesting to find out.
Dear Simon,
I saw the interview of bespoke tailor Eva Brautigam (her surname means bridegroom in German) in a copy of the street magazine Surprise left on the train and contacted her. We met in Basel and she agreed to sew buttonholes on my N&L RTL jacket Thomas Bauer in Eton couldn’t get cut and sewn for me. Eva confirmed she learned her English bespoke from a retired English tailor in Zuerich. Eva also teaches tailoring at the Basel city trade school. Unfortunately for me Eva only takes orders for bespoke now.
I can see how uneven development preserved these crafts in S. Italy. Yet they survived advanced capitalism in London, Paris and N. Italy, and you’ve written about their growth in Japan & East Asia. So the relationship seems complex…
Germany definitely used to have a tradition of mens’ bespoke tailors – Herrenschneider. And Berlin was once a serious contender. I bet there’s a fascinating story in how history decimated the Herrenschneider.
A quick web search shows there are a few senior names – Arnulf in Berlin/Potsdam, Radermacher in Düsseldorf, Dietl in Munich – as well as old houses that closed, and some new kids on the block. No idea how they compare to the English, Italians or French in terms of style or quality.
Varese and Sartoria Vergallo is with the train from Zürich just 3 hours away…
Hi Simon,
before I add to the above, let me thank you for taking the time to provide all the insight you do – it’s a pleasure to read (and learn from)!
As for Germany, the lack of high-end tailoring is down to a couple of things, I think – most being cultural (I will have to resort to some stereotypes here).
1 – Germans are a nation of savers, so spending 4k+ on a single item of clothing would seem outrageous to most (in spite of bespoke’s better long-term value)
2 – We’re talking about a very sober society that has lost all pomp and circumstance. Things that feel/look expensive tend to be frowned upon (cars are an obvious exception).
3 – Most aristocrats have disappeared from the public eye, meaning a class naturally drawn to commissioning (and championing) bespoke no longer sets the kind of public example the Tatler crowd do in the UK.
4 – Outside of sport, post-war Germany does not really do patriotism (reasons are obvious…) and while German brands will happily promote their German reliability (etc.) abroad (“Made in Germany”), they don’t tend to enjoy some kind special status at home (although, in recent times, people are beginning to go local – but that’s not a German trend per se).
Marcus has a point, though: surely there must be some top-class bespoke in this big/rich a country? Given Germany’s federal structure (which is the exact opposite of the London-heavy UK), they will be scattered all over the place, of course (which doesn’t help).
You mention your friends in Germany. Have you taken this up with any of them yet? Would love to hear their thoughts (and yours!) before weighing my options – which I wouldn’t have to do if Edward Sexton were to drop by for a couple of weeks at a time…
Thanks!
This ranking might help gaining an overview of bespoke tailors in Germany: http://www.kleegraefe-strothmann.de/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EURO-25-beste-Massschneider.pdf Given that Bernhard Roetzel is on the jury and that well-known tailors (Arnulf, Dietl, etc.) are included, this appears to be a credible resource. Starting prices are also given which comes in handy. Dating back to 2009, the list might be outdated and certainly is not exhaustive.
@Surprised: Cannot comment on London trained tailors in Southern Germany/Switzerland, but according to James Whitfield’s website, he is the only Savile Row (A&S) trained tailor in Germany.
@Simon: Thank you for your sharing your insights and making the effort to provide substantive and transparent coverage of artisans. Much appreciated.
Hi Joel,
I have no personal experience of Henry Rose, but an extremely well dressed friend of mine went to him quite a few years ago and was pleased with the result.
Stephen
Simon, have you (or anyone else reading) tried the Tailor Made London shop in Shoreditch for a bespoke suite?
They use a 3D scanner to take the measurements in 10 seconds (more precisely than a tailor they say) but all the rest of the service (consultation, fabrics available, special requests, alterations, etc) should be the same as offered in a Savile Row shop.
A 3 pieces suit with the best fabric comes at £1,300 but you can have a 2 pieces at £800. And I am talking about fully bespoke suit not made to measure.
I saw a lot of comments from readers who cannot afford a £3,000+ suit but still looking for a bespoke experience.
Given your wide experience on bespoke services it would be very interesting if you could try this service and tell us what do you think about the process and more interestingly about the final product.
Congratulation for this website.
Hi Marco,
Sure, I’m happy to look into it, but I’d be very sceptical about the service. For a start, it’s simply not possible to make a bespoke suit for £800 in London. The work required to hand make the suit is going to cost pretty much all of that. And that’s without cloth, any profit or any other costs.
Plus, the skill of the tailor is often the fitting and adjusting of a pattern, not the initial measurements. If you don’t have an experienced bespoke cutter at that stage, it’s not going to be fitted as well.
This is clearly a MTM service, and probably not made to a very high level at that price.
I have, was the first thing that was made for me – 30th birthday present arranged by my girlfriend. It’s very much a made to measure operation. Your consulation and fittings are with a salesperson. They do have alteration tailors in house, who jump in if theres a problem with the fitting and actually perform the alterations.
Their listed prices are for their house fabrics if you want a wider selection then the prices jump up a bit.
It’s probably fairer to compare them to SuitSupply than a bespoke tailor.
I still wear the jacket they made me (back in 2013) and love it. Future commissions were not quite so successful and I’ve since had suits / jackets made by GB and then MacAngus & Wainwright. I’ll be continuing to save longer and buy bespoke personally.
An update to this for 2018 would be highly appreciated!!
Thanks, I’ll try to do that
What house cut do you think flatters the athletic build best? I.E., Big chest and shoulders with a large drop in the waist. Would Cifonelli’s slim waist, light construction and roped shoulders flatter this (my) frame?
It depends what you want JJ – do you want to minimise that athletic look?
Thanks Simon. I want to look powerful and have a commanding presence, without being boastful. It is a tall order!
I see. It sounds like a balance you have to consider for yourself then – do you want to exaggerate the look you already have, or reduce it? Which would give that commanding presence without being over the top?
The more you want to exaggerate that, the more you’ll want a structured look, or indeed Cifonelli given the strong shoulder. The more you want to reduce it, the more you’ll want a softer look
Hi there.
Does someone have experience with Fielding & Nicholson in Shoreditch?
Thanks for your comments
Christian
Hi Simon, you mention: “Cifonelli is my top recommendation for a business suit, given the shape. ”
Could you please expand on why? I’m considering Cifonelli or an A&S for business and would appreciate your insight.
I think to be fair, they both have attractions. Cifonelli has a much closer body and sleeve, but more roping in the shoulder. A&S has more room and strength in the chest and sleeve, but more relaxed shoulder. Have a look at posts on both of them across the site to get an idea of the difference
Thanks Simon. I recently got to try on jackets from both houses to get an idea; and have been perusing this incredible site at length.
My initial impression (for myself working in a conservative industry) was that the Cifonelli is very bold… A match for the boardroom or giving TV interviews. Whereas a classic English suit fits the discretion and uniformity perhaps required in a workplace still coming suited and booted.
As you suggested I’ll continue reading more to better understand. Cheers.
I think that’s a good call Paolo, yes, though a conservative Cifonelli like my navy suit could still be business appropriate i think.
Simon, what tailor would you recommend to make a loden style overcoat?
I don’t know anyone that’s made one I’ve seen I’m afraid
Hi Simon,
Do you know good places to buy a mix and match suit?
I don’t fit regular suits and don’t have time for MTM.
Thanks
Joel
No sorry Joel – I’d suggest that you take the time to do MTM. It’s worth it for something that fits you
Hi Simon,
Curious to why you do not have not done a suit yet with Cesare Attolini?
Would love to hear your thoughts.
Best Regards,
They’re made to measure and we largely do bespoke, but it is something I’ve planned to do
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am quite sure Attolini offers full Bespoke…
Unless it’s changed recently, no, they offer a very high level of made to measure. There isn’t the same pattern development as bespoke and there isn’t the fully hand-padded chest and lapel.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for all the work you put into your blog – it’s both interesting and hugely helpful.
Have you had any experience with Henry Herbert? I see they’re tagged in this article but I can’t find any review. I’m looking for a bespoke, blue, linen suit. I like the cut of theirs and it’s at the more reasonable end of the bespoke price range.
Any other suggestions would be gratefully received – I see Graham Browne and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury are your recommendations for the more modestly priced bespoke suit.
Yours,
R
Hi – yes, I used Henry Herbert years ago. The experience wasn’t great, and it was made to measure, not bespoke to compare to any of those makers you mention. But that doesn’t mean they haven’t changed in the meantime though.
Just seen how you’ve updated and consolidated almost all the tailors with whom you’ve dealt into this one article. Good stuff and a great resource. Suggest it may now belong in your Guides section.
Simon, this post is a wonderful resource as I’m looking to commission my first bespoke suit later this year.
What are your thoughts on Norton & Sons? They seem like an interesting house. I realise that you don’t seem to have commissioned anything from them, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts?
I don’t know anything about them currently Karthik. They were bought out by Patrick Grant a few years ago, were made a fuss of for a while, and now are rarely heard of. Personally, I don’t know anything that would recommend them above one of the other Row houses I’ve covered
Simon,
Thank you for the update. When do you think you’ll have a full review of WW Chan? Also, what do you mean by keeping up with the growing interest in bespoke?
Thank you!
On WW Chan, it depends when they can travel to London next. We need just one more fitting.
On the latter, I mean that WW Chan has adapted its cut, style and structure, and started offering more options, in reaction to how guys have been so much more interested in bespoke in the past 15 years. Most older Hong Kong tailors have not done that.
Hi Simon,
I thought the question can be better put in the comments section to this blog post.
I’ve tried some of the London tailors on your blog’s recommendation – Graham Browne, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury and Manning and Manning. Out of them I found Whitcomb and Shaftesbury the most satisfying and had a couple of suits and a coat made by them. However, I’m starting to think about commissioning a bit more expensive suit and I was wondering whom would you recommend as a step up from Whitcomb and Shaftesbury? Would the next step be Savile Row tailors?
Many thanks in advance!
Best,
Andrey
Hi Andrey,
If you like that style, then yes the next step would be Savile Row or off-Row tailors. Perhaps look at Steven Hitchcock, who will be similar in style, or a bit above him in price, Anderson & Sheppard
Many thanks Simon. I thought about A&S, but will also look at Steven Hitchcock.
Dear Simon,
I’m based in New York and I’ve been considering some bespoke makers. We have storefronts for Thom Sweeney, Huntsman, and Richard James, all of whom you’ve covered here. Additionally I had the pleasure of meeting and getting measured by Terry Haste and Stephen Lachter on their most recent visit. I’m looking for a Huntsman like style of suit; strong shoulders, single button and I was wondering how those tailoring houses compare to one another in your experience.
Hi Benjamin,
If that’s what you’re looking for, I’d certainly recommend Terry. He and John Kent made me a couple of very nice suits in that mould, and were always both very good value (in money and entertainment). If you have any more specific questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Hi Simon,
I finally decided to get my first bespoke suit. Following your recommended, I would like to go for a 2 piece navy suit but not sure which tailor I should go to. I like a bit of structure and since I’m 35 it will be nice to get something that doesn’t make me look older if you know what I mean. Ideally, I would like to spend a maximum of £3/ 3.5k so I was thinking about the following tailors: 1. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury 2. Thom Sweeney 3. Henry Poole (not sure if it is within my price range) and 4. Huntsman (bespoke 100 is within my price range but it might be too structured for me). Would love to get your advice and thank you very much for this wonderful website!
They’re quite different styles Ian, though all English. What do you like or dislike about each of them?
Thanks for the prompt reply Simon.
1. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – Good price and according to your review very good product 2. Thom Sweeney – I heard very good things about Eithan Sweet, younger cut? and relatively good price 3. Henry Poole – classic, solid savile row suit (there is something about having a savile row suit I guess) 4. Huntsman (bespoke 100) – I do like their cut but dont want my suit to be too distinct.
Not sure if it makes sense butI find it hard to decide.
Thanks Ian. I meant specifically how the styles vary though. Whitcomb is more of a soft drape cut, Poole classic sharp Row and Huntsman more built-up. Sweeney is generally shorter and more contemporary.
You need to decide which of those you prefer before looking at anything else
Simon – how would you compare the drape cut of Whitcomb to that of Anderson & Sheppard?
Less drape, slightly less stylised. Eg more closed quarters, less extended shoulder – but very elegant
Thanks Simon. I think that I need to visit their shops in order to get better idea on what I actually want (in terms of style). Hopefully, they have a jacket that I can try on to see if the style suits my needs. Obviously, it will be useful to have a wardrobe which contains different styles but as I’m just moving away from RTW (and have a limited budget) it will take some years.
Yes, worth a visit if you can. Even just seeing the styles would be useful.
Hi Simon. Hope you are well. I am considering bespoke at some stage in the future and on my shortlist I am considering Benson & Clegg, G. Golding or Kent & Haste and one or 2 others.
Can you throw any light on the first two tailors from experience or feedback?
I met Terry Haste when I briefly called in at Sackville Street to see his house style and the reception was very friendly indeed as was Brian Lishak at Richard Anderson but very expensive.
Hi Lindsay,
I’m actually just in the middle of a bespoke commission with Benson & Clegg, and the first post on it will be ready in about a fortnight, so you might want to wait to see that.
On Kent Haste & Lachter, I did like what Terry and John made me. A little close in the body fit, but that’s not too hard to adjust. And as you say, very good value.
I don’t know G.Golding I’m afraid.
Cheers
Fantastic Simon.
Many thanks for this as Benson and Clegg could well be top of my short list.
I like a roomy loose fit, a first priority. I also forgot to mention Malcolm Plews / Meyer and Mortimer here.
Despite these sad and trying times, I want to wish you and your family a very blessed Easter.
Stay safe.
Lindsay
Hello Simon, Thank you for all tour amazing work. I find that this post is one of your most useful articles (perhaps the most practical !) — particularly when choosing a new tailor. I was wondering if you were planning on updating it with recent acquisitions ?
Hi,
Thanks, pleased you think so.
Yes, I should do so. I’ll try and get it done this week – thanks for the reminder.
Hi Simon, Excellent news, looking forward to it! Thank you for you great work!!
P.S
For some reason, when I click on this article from the search function on your website, I get “OOPS! THAT PAGE CAN’T BE FOUND.”. It only seems to happen for this one. I just have to search for this article on google to get it, but thought you might like to know.
Hmm, OK. I’ll try and correct that now. Thanks for letting me know
What about the Sicilian Tailors? I was thinking of getting the book on Sicilian Tailors by Sleevehead and reading up on them. Have you ever visited Sicily and the tailors there?
No, I haven’t Lindsay. I’d be interested to sometime.
Simon, I’ve really enjoyed your pieces on Ciardi and think that silhouette looks fantastic on you, particularly the shoulder on that sport coat. Is there English tailor makes a garment that has a similar cut to Ciardi?
I’d say Anderson & Sheppard is closest, but they’re still different in significant ways – in the same way most Neapolitans are different to all English tailors
Thank you. I was coming to that conclusion as well. This is very helpful indeed. I’m trying to narrow my tailors to two at the most for the sake of simplicity, maybe just one. I noticed that Huntsman and Thom Sweeney have fully functional cutting operations in New York now, but I don’t think either one would cut the kind of garment that I’m interested in.
Oh good.
I would always advise not to use somewhere if you don’t feel 100% confident you like their style. If you don’t like the style, you won’t wear it, no matter what the craft or fit.
Simon,
A great read – might suggest putting “New” or something next to the tailors that you’ve added each time to make it a bit easier to parse for people who’ve already read a previous version?
Nice idea, thanks Sam
Have to believe this resource is unparalleled. Quite an accomplishment.
Didn’t Timothy Everest leave ‘Timothy Everest’ a few years ago and start his ‘Mbe Studio’ business. I believe that Fred Nieddu, who I have heard very good things about, is the cutter at ‘Timothy Everest’ now.
Yes that’s right, Tim doesn’t have anything to do with his own name company any more
This is probably one of the posts that I have referred to the most.
Forgive me if the following is a tad naive but my question here is this.
As I cannot abide the slightest tightness in a garment but a more comfortable fit, which of the tailors you have had good experience with would fall into this category and be of a high quality and finish in the various categories of structured, drape or neapolitan tailoring?
I think you would find most tailors could accommodate that comfort, other than the most structured (Sexton, Chittleborough) and the smallest/shortest Neapolitans (Solito, Ettore). All the rest would be fine – and in Naples, I’d look at Ciardi and Panico in particular
Now Simon, if you had to choose only one tailor to work with for the rest of your life which one would it be?
My bet is either A&S (maybe Hitchcock Jr. instead?) or Cifonelli, being Ciardi up close.
It would be very hard, but right now yes, I think it would be Ciardi followed by Steven
Curious why you’ve never had anything made by Steed, given their relative international popularity and thus, international availability? I mean, as an A&S customer it strikes me as odd that you wouldn’t review alternative takes on soft, draped English tailoring. What gives?
I can’t cover everyone Alex – as you can see from this post, 55 is already a very large amount.
And I have tried alternatives on soft draped tailoring, in Steven Hitchcock.
Steed seem great, but given they don’t offer much I haven’t tried elsewhere, they’re not top of the priority list.
I would say that Steed are a match for the very best actually.
Edwin’s heritage alone makes for a very compelling argument; you are missing something here Simon. Don’t allow their home base to distract you from their craft.
Fun facts about Steed: They give customers the choice of hand set or machine set shoulders and sleeves for the coats and jackets. Half of their customers choose hand set and half choose machine set.
The prices are the same either way.
The showroom with their cutters is on Savile Row with Chittleborough & Morgan and Scabal. The workshop with all of their very own seamsters and seamstresses is in Carlisle, Cumbria.
Edwin Deboise, the founder and current owner of Steed, told me all of the above in an exchange of emails. And, yes, they rank up there with the worlds best in every way (including having the same amount of handwork to boot).
Steed’s 12 cutters (half of them men and half of them women) evenly split cutting all of the garments rather than specializing in a specific garment. Steed’s seamsters and seamstresses (there’s an equal number of both; six each) evenly split sewing all of the garments rather than specializing in a specific garment.
Again, all of the information about Steed that I share is from an exchange of emails with Edwin Deboise, again, the founder and current owner of Steed.
What I meant to say was the following:
Oh, all of Steed’s employees are on the payroll. There’s no freelance. Sorry I forgot to type in the word all.
Funny Steed is getting a lot of mention on here lately and I just met with them this morning in Dallas. First off, they seem like great guys, funny, wish I could have spent more time with them. Its nice to see a family run business that looks like it will continue for decades to come as Edwin passes it down to Matthew. I just ordered a made to measure suit as their bespoke is out of my price range. One thing I found, at least compared to other MTM options in Dallas, is they had a much broader range of fabrics. I saw Lessers, Smith, Harrisons, Dugdales, Fox, etc. Most local MTM offer just a 2-3 mills and merchants, and mostly Italian at that. Another thing was with styling, everything I wanted with styling on a bespoke suit they could do with MTM, roped sleeves, DAKS style side adjusters, etc. I would also like Simon to do a write up on them at some point and one thing that differentiates them from a lot of tailors is they travel a lot in the USA. I know you, Simon, have a lot of Americans who follow this blog, maybe even more than British who do, and Steed is more accessible to us than a lot of the tailors who are covered here. I think that is especially true for those of us who don’t live on the coasts. I will get my suit shipped in 6-8 weeks, then meet with them again in June. I like this because in this past tailors have wanted to do the alterations right on the spot and be done with me. Here, I get to wear the suit for a while first and then I can tell them any issues I have when I meet them. If the suit is for some reason unwearable until then, I can set up a zoom meeting for a temporary fix. So just putting in one more vote for Steed. I think, if nothing else Simon, you would enjoy visiting with them.
Simon, out of curiosity what size shoe do you wear (assuming off the rack)? I find that the perception of slimness on the bottom half of trousers is strongly tied to how big the shoes are, but I can’t find anything on your size. Thanks very much.
I wear an 8.5E usually David. And it’s a good question
First off, congratulations on this blog. This is really awesome. Great blogs related to bespoke tailors that we can sink our teeth into and really go to work. I love this bucket list and you know you are right. Blogging can be very overwhelming for a lot of people because there is so much involved but it’s like anything else. Everything takes time and we all have the same amount of hours in a day so put them to good use. We all have to start somewhere and your plan is perfect.
Simon,
Ive enjoyed this blog for a while, but as someone who is hard to fit and lives far from the bespoke centers, I never thought I would be asking you for advice. Nonetheless, here it goes; I’m tall (6’5″) with a rectangle body shape. Off the rack in the US, Im a 48L or 46L.
I live in Alaska, frequently wear suits, and have often thought I wanted to go true bespoke instead of made to measure.. For me, its a plane ride to a tailor. Europe is just as easy (or hard) as for me to get to New York.
So the question is; if I were to travel somewhere for bespoke, should I go to London, New York or Asia. Being 6’5″ and 240 lbs, I would feel most comfortable with a tailor used to making suits for larger men.
Any advice?
Thanks James. That does sound like it will be hard!
London or New York would be equally fine. They would both have a full range of tailors there or travelling there. The only difference with New York is you would have to plan your timing to be there for the English tailors coming over – and wouldn’t have that issue in London.
Given your distance, it might be worth looking at people doing fittings remotely, even over video, which some are now trying. Perhaps even someone like Frank Shattuck, who is in upstate New York
Good God, what a rotation! Wherever do you store it all?!
I don’t. A lot of it has been sold or given away – I am not a collector.
If you want to see how I store what I do have, there is a post on it here.
Hi Simon,
How then do you decide what to keep and what to give away/sell, especially since some of the pieces would’ve had a cost price into the £1000’s
Obviously pieces that weren’t succesful/didn’t turn out how you thought they would P Johnson is one example that comes to mind? obviously go but those pieces are from what I can tell having followed your site for a while few and far between.
Do you tend to only keep pieces from the bigger established or expensive houses Cifonelli, CdL, Liverano Anderson & Sheppard as apposed to Thom Sweeney, Richard James etc
No, it’s not usually related to price.
I have sold nearly all my Graham Browne things, which were not made as well – but usually it’s more to do with the cut and the style of the garment.
For example, I recently sold my Kent & Haste linen suit because it was the wrong cut for that cloth – and I made the wrong choice with the pockets.
I also gave away my Thom Sweeney jacket because I made a poor choice with the cloth.
There have been some things I’ve given away because the work wasn’t that good – eg a tweed from Biagio Granata.
Always remember, I am not a typical consumer and do not recommend anyone to buy tailoring in the way I do. It is always partly intended as good coverage for the website, for reviewing every tailor someone might be considering, and deliberately using their house style. I then try to give good homes to the clothes that, as part of that process, as produced but don’t end up being worn.
Wonderful list, Simon!
Have you ever come across Bottega Dalmut? I like their style, but I worry if their more a fashion tailor. Any opinion on that?
No, I can’t say anything useful really, sorry
Simon,
As to the question asked by Nestor regarding the one tailor that you would use for the rest of your life, your response was: ” It would be very hard, but right now yes, I think it would be Ciardi followed by Steven.” Please ADVISE, who is Steven (in this context)?
Sorry, Steven Hitchcock
Any plans to review Meyer & Mortimer Simon? Paul Munday has made most of my business suits since 2008 and I’ve been very pleased with them. Classic English style, and not as structured as the military history suggests.
Not currently no. There are quite a few tailors in this area, all good, but without much to separate them. Harder to justify covering as a result.
Currently it’s Benson & Clegg – and of course Oli was at Meyer & Mortimer previously
Dear Simon, much appreciated update! Would be interested to see or hear your take on the Sr Francesco db tweed jacket you mention, from a styling point of view, how did a db tweed work out? Perhaps, also an update to your article on the different styles of db jackets you have is due? I noticed the ciardi db, but would be good to have a bit more meat on what you think of it’s style.
Nice idea Nick. Another DB comparison might be interesting. Or actually, perhaps a DB overcoat one
Last year Suresh and Karen of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury helped me put together my first bespoke suit, a stunning 3-piece country suit in a beautiful brown plaid, with contrasting vest. Now waiting for the UK to open back up so I can have the first fitting.
If their taste and passion are any indication, this garment will be the the crown jewel of my wardrobe. Suresh also showed me a stunning tuxedo in black barathea, which will no doubt be my next commission.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for a very informative read.
I was wondering , is it possible to let us know the fabric used to make the Ambrosi trousers in the photo ?
I’ve had a number of Ambrosi trousers made after a visit to Naples a few years ago and really love them . Your choice of fabric looks wonderful.
Best regards
Hamish
Thanks.
That’s Crispaire – from Holland & Sherry
Simon,
I’ve read in your blog and others about the differences between bespoke, RTW and MTM. Now RTW is pretty easy to define, it’s the suit already made on the rack at a store. That seems to be its defining characteristic. I’m trying to decide if my tailor falls into bespoke or MTM. I live in Dallas, Tx and frankly don’t know if anyone here is a true bespoke tailor. A lot of the tailors that claim to be bespoke Or custom just take a few measurements and send them up and you get a Coppley suit or its equivalent. I’ve had that before. My tailor is a step up from that, significantly more measurements, multiple fittings, but they still don’t make the suit on site. It is made elsewhere. Does that mean it is not true bespoke? Are there clear definitions between MTM and bespoke, or is it more of a point on a continuum? They call their suits bench made and claim more handwork than any suit made in America. They have great reviews, so I’m not knocking them at all and they appear to be the best in my city, outside of maybe tailors that visit Dallas. I’m just curious what exactly separates made to measure from true bespoke?
There is no clear definition, no. It’s certainly possible to be on a continuum.
But, I would say making on site shouldn’t be any part of that definition. Many of the top Savile Row tailors use workshops in different parts of London. Some of them they own, some they don’t. And in any case, the tailors are usually freelance.
Most important for me as a definition is the development of a personal pattern, refined over several fittings; and the structural handwork like hand padding the chest and collar, which makes a 3D fit possible.
Following up as I have received my suit. There really wasn’t multiple fittings. I got measured, then I had a fitting with the suit basically already made, had a few adjustments from that, and then received my suit a week later. I never met the tailor who made the suit, or who did the alterations. As far as choices and style I wasn’t limited at all, they did the roped shoulders like I like with DAKS style side adjusters. They had a large selection of fabrics from over a half dozen English Mills you list on this site. As far as fit goes I can’t complain at all, trousers were perfect, don’t think I’d change a thing. Suit jacket is an inch too short, but that is probably more on me than them, since their style is the short jacket and I didn’t press them on that. Would you say that rates as high end made to measure or low end bespoke or what?
Sounds like high-end made to measure to me. The lack of fittings gives a fairly clear indication, but also you haven’t commented on the second part of my definition – the hand-padded label, collar etc. I would doubt from your description that they do that, but that would go a long way to it being a handmade suit, and therefore closer to bespoke
I reached out to them and this was the response “It isn’t the padding so much as the canvassing. There is a basted version in our showroom of all of the hand stitching for the canvassing, collar, lapel, button holes, etc. This is the “before” the final version, I can show you next time you are in the showroom.” Maybe that will give you and idea, as I am fairly new to all of this. I’m really just beginning to start understanding these things. I started reading your blog and Matt Spaiser’s blog when the pandemic hit.
Yes, that isn’t very clear, as it is the canvas that is padded. Hard to know what they mean without seeing a picture of it I’m afraid
https://harperandjones.com/uncategorized/sometimes-its-what-you-cant-see-that-matters-more-than-what-you-can/
That is a link to their blog. If you get bored you can tell me what you think, if not I certainly understand. As I said I’m overall very happy with the suit, just curious about these distinctions.
That’s bespoke all right, no concerns there
That’s good to hear. I suppose the discussion is somewhat academic, and me being happy with my suit is most important, but the words custom and bespoke are abused badly over here in America. Thanks again as always.
No worries.
Yes you’re right. Their use of the term ‘bench made’ is a good sign. It’s one bespoke tailors over there often use to say it’s true bespoke.
The list is not exhaustive. I remember you’ve been also at Eduardo De Simone for a bespoke and also a MTM jacket. There was the article comparing them.
True, but I’d put him more in the MTM bracket – so I’ll be including him in that list, when I put it together
Sorry you didn’t mention Simone Abbarchi who I found through your site and who continues to make excellent casual and less casual shirts for me. In fact I placed an order days ago. A shirtmaker in Italy with your pattern in stock would welcome a client’s call about now fellas.
Sorry Ray, perhaps some confusion here. This is a list of tailors, not shirtmakers?
Yes – I guess he is mainly a shirtmaker though I saw two beautiful overcoats he was delivering when I was there last. Tailor or shirtmaker all these Italian craftsmen would love an order from overseas about now, that’s the main thing. With a shirtmaker that has your pattern thats a bit easier I suppose.
Interesting, I didn’t realise Simone offered tailoring. Maybe works with someone else for those.
But yes, you’re certainly right about orders, and supporting the craftsmen we value.
Simon do you know of/can recommend any good tailors in Australia?
Only the mentions in our Melbourne guide here.
Of the Neapolitan-style tailors you’ve tried, which one(s) would you say had the finest finishing?
Probably a few like Panico, Ciardi, Caliendo. But it’s not a big difference from the others in Naples, and the difference between all of them and, say, Paris or Savile Row, is much bigger
Dear Simon,
Have you found that Neapolitan tailors put the notch higher than British one. I am quite tall and yet my notch is position high and I don’t particularly like that aesthetic.
Any views?
Michael
The younger, more contemporary ones do, yes. But it’s not just them – most MTM from Italy does it as well.
More classic Neapolitan tailors like Panico or Ciardi have them a little lower. It is also a fairly easy thing to change if you ask (unlike body fit, for example)
Hi Simon,
Very interesting article.
What is your view on having the label of the tailor and fabric (e.g. VBC) attached to the jacket?
Would you have both stitched to the inside of the jacket, hidden inside the breast pocket of the jacket or do you prefer not to have either incorporated into your commissions.
What is the general rule when it comes to labels for bespoke and MTM in your experience.
Thanks.
Made to measure will pretty much always have a label on the inside of the jacket.
Most bespoke will only have a label on the inside of the breast pocket.
Cloth labels are mostly only used by cheaper tailors – where they think the cloth is more of an attraction than they are.
However, there are no strict rules here. Poole uses a label on the inside of the jacket; some high-end tailors use the cloth label too.
Personally, I wouldn’t use a cloth label but I have no problem having the tailor or brand label visible.
Thanks Simon.
What is your preference if you have one?
I don’t particularly. As I said above, I usually don’t have the cloth label, but I don’t mind about the brand label – inside or outside of the inbreast pocket
Thanks Simon
hi simon，is there any German house you like ?
I haven’t tried any I’m afraid
Simon – I may be answering my question here but, I’ve searched through the site to see if you’ve ever had experience of Pasquale Mola trousers but can’t find any direct reference. Would this mean you’ve not had anything made by him?
Correct
With regards to house style, what are the differences in the silhouette between Henry Poole and Huntsman? I am looking for my first bespoke suit but i am quite broad with a narrow waist and wondered which would suit better. Thank you
Hi James,
They are both included in our Style Breakdown guide – you can compare them there, better analysis than in a brief comment
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the insightful article though I kinda wished you would have reviewed more Asia tailors!!
If I may also ask do the tailors from Savile Row normally employ paddings in their suits?
Thanks.
Andrew
Unfortunately there aren’t many at the top-end from Asia – though many from Europe do visit.
And yes, if you mean shoulder pads, then all Savile Row tailors use them. Some might occasionally make a jacket without pads, but that’s unusual.
Fair enough Simon was thinking along the likes of WW Chan/Gordon Yao/A Man Hing Cheong from HK and maybe few others from Singapore/Taiwan/Malaysia.
Thanks for the clarification on shoulder paddings. Personally what’s your take? Aye or Nay?
Thanks.
WW Chan I’d certainly include, but less so the others.
I’d look more at the likes of The Anthology or Prologue in Hong Kong.
And to Korea as the next country in the region.
Shoulder pads is a fairly big area, and certainly not as simple as yes or no. It depends what style you want mostly – I would always have a shoulder pad in something more formal. And in general, I would prefer a thin pad even in more casual jackets.
Cheers for the input Simon because I do get the feeling that jackets(be it part of suit or on its own) tend to be natural and without shoulder pads going by what I have read on websites on Ring Jacket or The Armoury.
I think that’s a fairly small pool – the vast majority of suits out there still have a shoulder pad of some thicknesses, as well as a lot of Armoury/RJ ones
Hi Simon,
Thank you for all the incredibly helpful information on the website. Not knowing anything about bespoke (and therefore not knowing what to look for without spending multiple lots of £5,000 on a trial and error basis) was the main thing putting me off, but I think I’m coming round!
I’m looking for a tailor that will provide quality in terms of the cut and material, but also one that will guide me through the process. For example, I’d like someone who will cut the cloth to allow my body shape to look its best, without being wedding to their own preferred style. I’d also like someone who can be creative, for example, I’d like to commission an evening wear suit that isn’t a dinner jacket, but isn’t a business suit either.
Essentially, I want to be able to rely on getting the best quality, fit and advice from a tailor, without having to shop around. I recognise that there will inevitably be a premium to pay for this, but I’d rather do that once and forge a long term relationship that I hope will develop into commissioning other items, such as overcoats and shirts.
On that basis, is a tailor you would recommend? My own searching has lead me to favour Chittleborough & Morgan or Michael Brown, but I’d be very grateful for your input, especially if there are any tailors off the Row, which seem to be much harder to research. For context, I’m early 30s and have a t-shirt size of “Medium slim fit”, so I’d be looking for somewhere that could do slim and suitably modern well.
Thank you in advance, and also once again for the information on the website.
Ravi
It’s a big question to answer Ravi, and I’m not sure I can do it in a single comment. For example, it depends a lot on how much you are happy to be led by a house style – most tailors will have one, some stronger than others
Thanks for the swift response, Simon. I think I’d like a tailor to favour what looks good on me, rather than their own house style. Having read the articles on this website, it seems C&M seem to lean towards the 70s style, with MB being more modern and sleek. Having said that, presumably C&M would be able to recreate a more modern look. I suppose what I’m really looking for is someone who’ll impartially tell me what’ll look best on me, as opposed to trying to fit me in to their house style, as I simply don’t have the knowledge to be able to guide the tailor myself at this stage.
On this basis, I’m leaning towards MB for the exceptional items (evening suit, dinner jacket, overcoat etc.) and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury’s classic bespoke service for more everyday suits and clothes. Would you say that sounds sensible? By the way, did you find there were any differences between Whitcomb & Shaftesbury’s Saville Row bespoke and classic bespoke suits beyond the minor finishing touches? I wasn’t able to find the final comparison article on the website.
Many thanks!
I think this all sounds sensible, with the caveat that the selection of the tailor is something you need to do with their house style in mind. No one makes everything, or can make everything.
If you’re happy with what you’ve seen of Michael Browne and Whitcomb, then yes I think this seems like a good choice.
And no, I didn’t notice any difference between the two offerings.
Hi Simon,
Just a quick follow up question on the above. For subsequent commissions with the same tailor, how many fittings should you expect to have, if any? To my mind, I’d have thought if you’re commissioning something that’s of similar weight, in terms of cloth, there might not be any fittings required, but, regardless of the cloth chosen, only one would be necessary at the most.
Also, and please excuse my ignorance once again, how does a fitting differ from a finished fitting? Is the later simply trying on something that you could walk home in and to which only minor alterations can be made?
Many thanks!
You should always expect one fitting, even on subsequent orders. This is a manual process, and cloths are often slightly different too.
Often that’s enough, but if two are required, that’s not necessarily a bad thing or anything the tailor has done wrong.
There are a few different stages of make in the suit, and so types of fitting. The most basic is a ‘basted’ where most things are loosely sewn together. There’s also a ‘forward’ where the front edge and the pockets are normally finished. And sometimes a completely finished garment, where small changes might be made but aren’t necessarily expected.
Hello Simon. What a great article.. Do you have any experience with tailors in sicily? If not, maby just heard of a few houses there? Any tips or maby just a good rtw shop? I was surprised that the Italian tailors where mostly from Napels. Cheers!
Hi Jasper,
No, sorry no real experience with Sicilian tailors that I can helpfully pass on.
Yes there are a lot of tailors in Naples – I believe more than anywhere else in Italy
What about Canali, love them!
They’re not a bespoke tailor
Hi Simon, with the end of the transition period next year and hopefully the resumption of trunk shows, do you know how the question of VAT will be dealt with if an order is placed in London? Also, do you think tailors in Italy will provide forms that give you a VAT refund? I apologise for such a dull question…
No worries Nick. Where do you live? If you’re in the US, I don’t think anything will change for you – you weren’t paying VAT before and you won’t now.
If you place an order in London with an Italian, then it depends how he charges you. But yes, they may well try and make it easier for you to claim the VAT back when you travel home.
Thanks! I live in London, so curious how this will affect the commissioning process.
Oh I see, so you’re interested in how the visiting tailors from Europe will deal with VAT. Well, I’d imagine they might try and do the same as English ones do in the US, which is do all payments remotely from Italy, and so not charge VAT. But there may then be separate duties when the goods come in, that depends.
Thank you, this is a really helpful list. Out of interest, have you had any experience with Couch & Hoskin?
No I haven’t Gui. I’m aware of them, though, and as far as I know they are a good example of an old City tailor – good value, but not (deliberately) at the same level of West End tailors. Like Graham Browne, who I have covered a lot over the years.
When we try to define what „real bespoke“ is, and therefore separating it from MTM: I‘d say from what I learned so far, it is not critical for bespoke that the person who takes the initial measurements is then also the cutter (but ideally it should be?). But I‘d say it is critical that at least one person from the tayloring house is involved in every single measuring- and fitting step? Could you please help me draw the line here? (Separating it from the best MTM like JMM in Paris f.e.) Thank you!
I think the crucial things that define the bespoke are:
– Cutting and fitting: Creating a unique pattern that is substantially altered through the fitting process
– Making: Hand padding the chest, and other areas of functional hand work
After that, there are secondary order things, which are useful to watch out for, but not always necessary.
In that list I would put the measurer and cutter being the same.
It is usually a good idea, and it often causes problems when they are not. For example, a shop taking measurements and then passing them onto a workshop.
But, there are also examples where this works well, eg Brian Lishak travelling around the US, taking measurements for Richard Anderson. Or the set up at Smalto in Paris. In both those cases, it works because the people involved have done that system for so long. The key is experience with it.
I’d say the same thing about someone from the tailoring house being involved with every step too. The vast majority of the time, it’s what you want and will make the product better. But I wouldn’t say it’s an absolute – you can still product a good garment without it.
The problem really, is that these secondary things are just rules of thumb that suggest a product will be good bespoke, but don’t guarantee anything. Really you just need to know what a good review, from seeing the final product on a fried etc, that it’s good.
Thank you for this detailed reply. Cheers
No worries
Hi Simon
Have you had a suit made by Maurice Sedwell? How would describe their style?
Hi Anthony,
No I haven’t. The make is at a very high level, and the jackets pretty structured, but the other aspects of style I’ve never found attractive. Coloured buttonholes, horizontal stripes, it all feels a little gimmicky to my taste. Of course, they can make plain suits as well, but so can others.
Hi Simon
I do not clear about house style and cutter style such as you always refer to Mr.John Hitchcock when you talk about Anderson and Sheppard this mean the style of the house alter by cutter.On the other hand when the cutters move out to open their own they carry the house style with them such as Michael Brown.Question is house or cutter ?
It’s a mixture of both. Sorry, not a simple answer!
Usually tailors at the same house cut in the same way, with very small differences. When one leaves and sets up on their own, they retain the house style mostly, because that is how they trained. But they are more likely to tweak it and add some of their own style. It goes from being 95% house style maybe to 80%
Hi Simon,
Helpful list, thank you! At the start you mention a MTM list too, did you publish that one already (apologies if I missed it)?
Regards,
Jasper
No sorry, not yet Jasper. It will be up soon though
Thank you for the amazing list of tailors. I am so happy to meet with them.
Great article Simon, thank you.
Simon, hi i am thinking about having a classic navy suit made, any thoughts please about folks to talk with in NYC or greater NYC area. Thinking of a A&S style, also welcome any thoughts on material type.
Many thanks.
Cliff
Hey Cliff,
There’s a big thread here about New York tailors – probably the best resource.
Although the short answer is there aren’t very many
Can you speak to how an Italian tailor would refer to his services as either bespoke or MTM? This may be more of a linguistic distinction, but for Italians, is making something ‘su misura’ indicative of making something MTM or bespoke? Or does it depend entirely on the tailor? Is there specific verbiage an Italian tailor would use to indicate that he offers bespoke services?
Unfortunately it varies between brands and tailors. Brands use it for MTM and I’ve seen bespoke tailors use it.
The best way to tell is probably just to try and see a half-made product, and look for the hand padding
A perfect segue! With the many PS references to hand padding in jackets, I’ve actually been meaning to ask whether you could be slightly more specific about what this is. I understand that it’s desirable in tailoring and certainly adds to the price, but I can’t articulate what it means. How are hand padded jackets different from non-hand padded jackets? Why are they superior? How does one look for hand padding or otherwise tell that a jackets has been hand padded?
So in brief:
– A hand padded jacket means the canvas is attached to the cloth of the jacket with hand stitches, rather than machine ones around the edge. On an unfinished jacket, you can see this on the lapel or chest canvas. See image on the green cloth in this post.
– In that image too, you can see how the canvas is curved, domed, which is the natural shape of the chest. This is one advantage of hand padding – the ability to control this shape.
– On a finished jacket, you can normally see small pricks of stitching coming through on the back of the lapel. You can see an extreme example on this coat. Often it is more subtle than that, and only just visible.
Thanks for this! This explanation was very helpful.
Oh good
If from now on you would have to stick to three tailors only either from England or Italy who would that be? Thanks
It’s a very big question, Istvan, and more importantly, very dependent on one’s style and lifestyle.
Can I suggest reversing the question? What do you wear or want to wear – how formal, how sharp, how traditional
I wear a lot of suits (mainly Kent Haste) but also increasingly more casual as well. I also like to mix it up from the most formal to more casual. I realise it’s very broad, which is why I was curious to hear your own personal opinion.
I see, thanks Istvan.
I’m not trying to avoid the question at all, but there are so many factors involved. The prime one is style – these tailors could all be grouped into different styles, some a matter of formality, others just a question of cut you like more or less. Some have a strong style (Chittleborough) others much less so (Poole).
In the reviews I do of tailors, and ongoing articles, I try to get across my reasons for picking particular tailors myself. But I’m hesitant to try and summarise all that in just a comment, because it could easily be misleading. Does that make sense?
It might be more useful to read some of the articles on these tailors, get a sense of why I have used particular ones?
Dear Simon,
On trousers some time ago here on this blog you praised the English trousers and how people didn’t pay enough respect to them and obsessed over Neapolitan trousers. At the time I could not realise how true it was what you were saying. I have had 4 trousers made by one of the famous Neapolitans but they never quite worked for me because what I wanted was essentially a very British trouser in a Neapolitan make. On 4 pairs of trousers I showed pictures and explained how I wanted them to fit and my vision was a high-waisted pair of double forward pleat trousers with a rich leg. You have also cautioned against trying to get a tailor to do a style that is not their by default style – yes, I realize how true this is. I had given up on my trousers until I went to Steven Hitchcock who with my explanation managed to cut an absolutely beautiful pattern of the trousers I wanted. Yes, they are significantly more than the Neapolitan and are not as beautiful in make, but they are comfortable and the style I wanted; they make me 10x happier than the Neapolitan ones. I also wanted to mention how much more comfortable they are for wearing. With my Neapolitan ones who are in fact quite slim and close cut (I don’t know how that happened), I am very self-conscious about wearing them, they fall down, they wrinkle in the wrong places whereas the British hang beautifully.
Best,
Peter
Dear Simon,
Henry Poole and Cesare Attolini.They are two brands that symbolize Britain and Italy, respectively. If you compare the two, please tell me your opinion on what has better quality. They focus on “Bespoke” and “RTW” respectively, so direct comparisons are not easy. However, if Henry Poole’s “Bespoke” and Cesare Atolini’s “Su Misura (MTM)” are the same premise, we can compare the results.I would like you to compare the overall design, feel, appearance, completeness, etc. I’m look forward to hearing from our experts and enthusiasts.
In addition,Whether Bespoke or RTW, I wonder which house you prefer the most in the UK and Italy.
It may be difficult, but please reply!!
Thank you!!
Hi there,
I think it’s a very hard comparison to make. Attolini su misura is not really the same as Poole bespoke, as far as I know. It is not a bespoke make in the same way, or a bespoke fitting process. So I think those two things aren’t really comparing like with like. They are bigger questions about how much you value bespoke and not.
The overall design is obviously very different, a straight English aesthetic vs a soft rounded Neapolitan one. Which of those you prefer is really a personal decision and a question of style.
It would be much easier to compare two bespoke houses, such as Panico in Naples with Poole. Or two ready-made houses. But again the style side depends a lot on your taste.
Which tailors I prefer in Italy and the UK is a huge question, one most of this site is dedicated to covering! Could I suggest you start with the article showing all the tailors I have used, or the Style Breakdown series, and read what I see about different tailors there?
Thank you
Thank you very much for your reply. Normally, I read most of your writing. I would like to have a Single Breasted Suit in Dark Navy color. Please recommend one each from England and Italy. It’s not a detailed evaluation, I just want you to let me know what impressed you personally.
With a lot of caveats, because so much of it is about style as well, which is personal, I would recommend you try Anderson & Sheppard and Ciardi.
I know you like Ciardi’s clothes among non-British clothes. In the meantime, I have had some questions while reading your writing. After John Hitchock’s retirement, I wanted to ask whether A&S or Steven Hitchock were showing better results. In addition, Liberano hired a large number of employees and was told that the Chinese were making clothes. Nevertheless, I wonder if it is worth paying for the price and matching the clothes. In Florence, I think Guida’s clothes are comparable to Liberano’s. From my point of view, I only need to choose one place to match the suit. I just want to ask you which of the Single Breasted suits you’ve experienced that you’ve shown impressive quality. I’m sorry for asking too many questions. But I don’t think I can ask you a comparison question by naming each store, so I ask like this. I am worried that it will be frustrating, complicated, and difficult for you. I respect you for always giving me answers.
No problem. From what I’ve seen A&S is still just as good, but Steven is also good. Either would serve you well.
I can’t speak to the Liverano points, or Guida, but I would say that it doesn’t really matter where the workers are from, and make sure to differentiate between their ready-made tailoring made elsewhere, and their bespoke made in-house.
I think the questions were too low-key and rash because I was too curious. I feel sorry and ashamed. Thank you for teaching me.
Not at all! Don’t worry, it’s just all a little complicated if you want a truthful answer, rather than just ‘I like X’
Currently, I go to law school. So, I’m looking into it in advance because I think I’ll wear a suit more often soon! Please recommend a few more single breasted suits that will suit legal professionals such as judges, prosecutors, and lawyers. I trust you completely. Thank you a lot👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You want to stay pretty conservative in that case, and I’d start with the ones in our suit capsule collection. But err on the side of caution – eg away from double breasteds, more patterns or texture. At least until you see what your peers actually wear
As someone who has been a practicing lawyer for 13 years in the United States, particularly Dallas, TX I may be able to offer some advice. I also worked briefly in Shanghai, China for British law firm Herbert Smith. You do not need a high end bespoke suit coming right out of law school, in fact I would recommend against it. Get to know what you like first with less expensive options and build your wardrobe of nicer things slowly as you replace the cheaper things you start with. No one expects a young lawyer to wear Savile Row quality suits. Even today, and I’m one of the best dressed attorneys I know, I wear mostly MTM suits. Ready to wear is fine, and I would recommend some place like Suit Supply if you have access to it for your first suits. Fit is most important. You want to be able to buy 4-5 suits with your budget. My parents bought me a MTM solid navy as a graduation gift from a small local tailor and something like that is fine as well. If you can see what the young lawyers in the locale you plan on practicing in wear that should give you a good idea. You don’t want to stand out as a young lawyer. My number one piece of advice is get some proper dress shoes. I see plenty of lawyers who wear otherwise perfectly acceptable ensembles ruin them by wearing shoes that are not meant to go with a worsted business suit.
As you advance in the profession you can get more “adventurous” in your dressing and buy more high end pieces. Just because our profession is one of the few that still requires a suit and tie does not mean that everyone in it dresses well. I know plenty of excellent, well paid attorneys at the top of the profession who are not good dressers. I agree with Simon’s recommendation of looking at his 5 business suit capsule. The only thing I would change is bump charcoal/dark grey up to number 2. When I was a young, poor lawyer with a lot of debt, I had a couple of unfortunate incidents with my cheaper suits that left me running with only 2 suits for several months. Luckily they were my ubiquitous solid navy and solid charcoal SB suits. If anyone ever noticed I only had 2 suits, they never said it. Hope this helps!
I will be going to London in September, all being well, for my first foray into bespoke with Steed. Looking forward to it, albeit a tad apprehensive! I’m looking for practicality, versatility and durability in this first bespoke commission. I’m thinking of separates rather than a suit. I ask myself, do I need a suit? I’m retired now, no business needs!! A jacket in navy in the Harrison’s Oyster, H.Lesser or Botany bunches and grey trousers in the same bunch’s which I’ve shortlisted. Then I’ll cross the “Row” to Gaziano & Girling to have a look at MTO, maybe a very dark espresso or similar shade, not quite black in one of their Oxford or Derby styles,I’ll let them advise me here, to complement my new first bespoke commission.
I’m now finally taking the plunge, I hope it works well for me!!
Lindsay McKee
Hi Simon, following my enquiry regarding choosing my first bespoke Navy/Brown sports jacket, I narrowed it down to Whitcomb&Shaftsbury and Sartoria Ciardi.
Although I am aware that you like both styles, what would you recommend given that it would be the first bespoke jacket and will be mostly worn in London?
Many thanks,
Jack
I think it entirely depends on which style you prefer Jack – both are fine for a first piece and both would be fine in London. But the style and cut are rather different. Just have a look at both and see which you personally prefer.
To be honest, I like them both, and I hope I can get them both in the near future.
For the first sports jacket, I aim to wear it on pretty formal occasions(e.g. business) and casual(e.g. weekends with chinos/jeans).
In my view, Whitcomb &Shaftesbury may not work so well for a casual outfit and vice versa for Sartoria Ciardi. What do you think? Could you correct me if I am assuming this wrong?
Many thanks,
Jack
I think you’re on the right lines, Jack, but Ciardi could bridge them both probably, where Whitcomb wouldn’t.
Hi Simon,
Do you hope to have a new commission soon….. with even a new tailor in London or a regional tailor or another abroad?
Yes Lindsay, though no regional tailors.
Why?
Out of interest generally as I’ll be in London, hopefully, in September for my my first bespoke commission with Steed.
I see. There are various things coming up on tailoring, but none that would be in direct competition there in terms of style that we haven’t already covered
Hi Simon. Another great piece. I recently purchased an Orazio Luciano blue blazer and had it taken in to suppress the waist. It looks as though the tailor took it in at the back as well, but this gave a more tapered look versus an hour glass effect and the back flap (between the side vents) appears too narrow for my liking.
I’m going back the the boutique where I purchased the jacket to have it addressed, but I have a question:
Is there a conventional size or proportion for this back flap or is it variable based on the cut of the jacket and/or intended effect?
I can’t seem to find anything on this.
Thanks,
Bruno
It’s pretty much just in proportion to the jacket. That would have been considered when the jacket was made though, and I certainly wouldn’t narrow it during alterations
Great read Simon. I’m really glad that you state the good and the bad.
I will be travelling to Naples next year and would like to have a jacket or two and some trousers made. I am leaning towards Ciardi or Caliendo for the jacket and Ambrosi for trousers (however, Pomella may be a better choice based on your article).
What would be your suggestion. If you could only have one tailor in Naples make you a jacket, who would it be? And for trousers?
The choice of a jacket would depend on style among a few – Ciardi, Caliendo, Pirozzi, Panico. I’d have a look at what those have made for me and see which style you prefer.
For trousers I haven’t noticed a big difference, but perhaps Cerrato
Have you ever made anything with Pasquale Sabino?
No I haven’t, sorry
Hi Simon,
Who would you recommend for a reasonably priced suit? A good quality/value ratio. I like suits with strong shoulders, and fairly stylish.
Either based in London or visiting.
Thanks
Hi Tim,
I’d say most of the tailors we cover are decent value for money, but it depends a lot on your budget and what you’re looking for – how much you want finer finishing and so on. Do you have any sense of a budget, or of those priorities?
Hi Simon,
My budget would be 2.5/3K. A well cut navy suit with decent finish.
Thanks Tim
Hi Tim,
I’d suggest Whitcomb & Shaftesbury at their offshore bespoke – have you seen my coverage of it?
S
Hi Simon,
I had thought of W&S, but I think you said that their house cut is soft shoulders? I am sure they could change that upon request. What about Graham Browne? I just emailed them with regards to price. Thanks Tim
Hi Tim,
Yes, soft for an English suit, but not for an Italian. So it depends what context you’re working within. Might be worth a look at my suits and seeing if you like that style.
Graham Browne would be a lot cheaper, but not at the level of any other bespoke I cover. Great value, but a more workaday bespoke suit.
Not previously covered by Simon, but I think Meyer & Mortimer can do a bespoke worsted suit at the upper end of your range and they do a more traditional structured military cut, and are part of the Saville Row Association, if physically just around the corner. I’ve been very happy with them.
Hello Simon,
I am a lawyer and considering a new SB navy bespoke suit from either of Anderson Shepard or Henry Poole. I am a conservative dresser. I know they have different house cuts. Although I like the sound of the drape cut (particularly the comfort) I do wonder it would seem more casual / relaxed compared to a more structured style and therefore not appropriate for a formal business suit. What do you think?
I wouldn’t worry about that Anthony, it would certainly be appropriate and look very smart.
I’m not trying to “ stir the pot” here but I had an interesting conversation with an ex-head cutter who is now working on his own and fully hand stitches all his garments in the old one tailor to one garment way. Some may beg to differ on this method but I feel that surely there must be other tailors whether in Savile Row or otherwise who, either by himself or with a dedicated team of cutters and tailors make their garments entirely by hand stitching without any machine work.
Who are and where can one find these tailors, whether in Savile Row/Sackville Street or elsewhere in London, the regions , even Italian tailoring ?
Whilst some machine work may be justified, others may wish for a fully hand stitched garment.
Who are the tailors that still undertake hand-stitching of all their garments?
Are you sure he’s not machine stitching the long seams? It would be rather odd not to, and a tailor would still refer to something being entirely hand sewn, just because it makes so much sense to do those seams by machine.
Dear Simon,
based on all your experience if money and time constraints (for fittings) were no object and you had to choose1 (or maybe 2!) British, French and Italian tailors to produce a bespoke suit that was of the finest quality in terms of delivering a timeless fit, style and supreme elegance which tailor/s would you choose from each country and why?
I think that’s the question I’ve been trying to answer for years in thousands of words!
Maybe I’ll try and do a full article running through what I would choose and why, because there are other really important factors, especially style. That’s the biggest reason alongside reliability and relationship that people end up going with different tailors in the long term
Does VESTRUCCI visit London?
Not any more, unfortunately. They now only do the bespoke from Florence
Hello, Mr.Crompton. I’m your big fan. I’d like your advice. Because of my conservative job, It is mendatory to wear a suit. I’m a lawyer,so I want to be looked like a lawyer. After I subscribed to your article, I became interested in bespoke suits. I’m not that tall because I’m 172cm tall,but I have developed my upper body(especially chest😂) by exercising. I’d like to bespoke ‘SB suit’(I know you prefer double one,A&S!😎)that can be worn at workplace but looks cool like James Bond,Gianni Agnelli,and Simon Crompton. Please recommend (world best🤣) SB suit house which is very attractive and fine quality when you think about it. Personally I prefer well-padded shoulder. I trust the eye of a person who has worn a world-class suit like you. I want to wear an attractive suit that I can wear for the rest of my life. I’m sorry to ask you a difficult question..!! Thank you🙏🏻
Hi Michael,
Not at all, happy to help. The differences here are mostly about styles of SB jacket. If you like a well-padded shoulder, it sounds like you’d be best with a Savile Row house, such as Huntsman or Dege & Skinner.
However, do look at all the examples of styles in our guide here and see which you prefer. Then please do ask follow-up questions there or here
has anyone tried Thresher & Glenny, whether bespoke or MTM, maybe better known for their shirts rather than their tailoring?
Hi Simon,
This is most definitely very useful information for me. I am thinking about commissioning either a coat of some sort. I have dialed in to either an DB ulster coat or a SB overcoat with raglan shoulders.
Fabric would be a heavy grey herringbone (something similar to this https://ibb.co/4NWJ7bD). My question is:
1. Would you go with an ulster or regular SB raglan coat.
2. Debating between going to W&S, Pirozzi, or Solito as I have commissioned from them before in NYC. Which tailor would you go with for such project out of the three or would you pick another tailor?
Much appreciated!
1. I think it depends on formality and how unusual you want the coat to be. A raglan SB would be less unusual and more casual.
2. All would be good, I’d pick between them based on liking English or Neapolitan style more in that regard, and then between Pirozzi and Solito based on quality, with the former being better but I think more expensive
The difference in coat style between English and Neapolitan still being that the former is heaver and more padded shoulder and later lighter and more relaxed, similar to how their suits are? If so, would the later not be as warm given the lighter canvas?
There are quite a lot of other style differences actually, varying with the model, but the Whitcomb ulster is not that English anyway, more inspired by European models. If you were getting, say, a normal DB coat from an English tailor then I’d worry more about differences in style.
The lightness of the canvas wouldn’t make that much difference to warmth. Fabric is much more important
Could you elaborate a little more on the style differences? Also based on quality of the construction, is it W&S>Pirozzi>Solito?
Yes, though Pirozzi is pretty much the top for what you’ll get from Naples.
Style differences are harder to go into without more space, but if there are specific questions I can try