Criticism of what people wear to black-tie events tends to focus on obvious sins: wearing a lounge suit, wearing a coloured tie and wearing a long tie instead of a bow (though this is less objectionable than one may think). These are some of the biggest sins against the traditions of the dinner outfit, and stand out as such. They also stand out because they are committed by a relatively small number of people.
For that reason, I don’t think they are the greatest black-tie sins. They’re big, but they’re rare. More important are the small sins committed by almost everyone. Those demonstrate how disconnected the ensemble is from its traditions, despite the apparent uniformity on display.
Sin 1: Cover your waist
This is the greatest sin, so it comes first.Every black-tie outfit needs to cover the waistband of the trousers in some way. That is an indisputable fact. This covering can take one of three forms: a waistcoat, a cummerbund or a double-breasted jacket.
A waistcoat should be the standard. If you’re wearing a single-breasted dinner jacket, something needs to cover up your shirt – particularly if the jacket only has one button.
A shirt with a stiff, oval front makes this obvious: only the stiff part is meant to show, the rest is covered up by a waistcoat. But even a soft-fronted shirt needs a covering. Even though its pleats form a rectangle on the front of the shirt, and even though they go all the way down to the waistband, that waistband must be covered.
This waistcoat can be black or white. White is less common and more formal, echoing as it does white tie or full fig. It can also be full or backless. If white, it should be made of the same Marcella as the shirt front. If black, it should be the same wool as the trousers.
The cummerbund was invented in the subcontinent as an alternative to the waistcoat for hot weather. It was originally a sash simply tie around the waist.
But what proportion of men at a black-tie event have some form of waist covering? Twenty per cent? Fifteen even? That’s why it’s the greatest sin.
Sin 2: Notch lapels
Most suits have notch lapels; dinner jackets should not have them. At some point, the black-tie industry forgot, or simply got lazy, and conflated the two.
A peaked lapel is more formal, aggressive and rakish. It suits black tie where it wouldn’t suit the decorum of day-to-day business. All dinner jackets, single or double-breasted, should have peak lapels. Yet a significant number (40%? 45%?) of men at a black-tie event will have notch lapels.
(Eagle-eyed readers will notice that my own velvet jacket, worn as black tie, has notch lapels. What can I say? My wardrobe is far from complete and the jacket was a vintage piece to trial a look. It’s on the list to upgrade.)
Sin 3: Shoes
The best shoe to wear with black tie is a patent pump with a grosgrain bow. Second on the list is a patent Oxford. Third is a plain black Oxford, without brogueing and preferably wholecut. All three are acceptable but are less impressive further down the list.
Yet how many men wear pumps? Probably zero. How many patent Oxfords? Perhaps 10%. And of the remainder wearing black leather shoes, there is probably a healthy chunk (again, perhaps 45%) wearing brogues, Derbys, boots or monk straps. So another low-level but popular sin. Multiplying number by grade of sin makes it a greater offence than a long tie.
8 Guest Comments »
1.
“The best shoe to wear with black tie is a patent pump with a grosgrain bow.”
You typed this with a straight face?
Comment by smoothie — May 4, 2009 #
2.
And why shouldn’t he have?
Does one need to wear a motorcycle boot to “prove” his manhood?
Comment by David V — May 4, 2009 #
3.
Bond – Brioni Tux – Casino Royal – No cummerbund, one button, just braces and a white shirt. That rocked flat out.
Comment by hornett — May 4, 2009 #
4.
Do I need to wear a patent pump with a grosgrain bow to “prove” my manhood?
Comment by Ragdoll — May 4, 2009 #
5.
#2. What about shawl collar?
Comment by JT — May 4, 2009 #
6.
You did a good job of pointing out common ’sins’ of black tie attire, yet I feel you could explain better why these things are sins. What makes them so bad? I’m not sure why not covering your waist, wearing different shoes, or having anything but a peak lapel should be so deplorable.
My conclusion at so many people making the same ‘mistakes’ and these mistakes not being pointed by the media would be that it is a case of break with tradition and modern black tie differing from tradition. I understand that you might call tradition the entire point of black tie, but i’d be interested in hearing what the actual downsides of breaking these rules would be.
Comment by Matt — May 4, 2009 #
7.
I have not needed to wear black tie for a number of years so I’ve escaped this, but the simple fact is black & white render my complexion corpse-like. What is your view on makers like Emma Willis who offer an ivory dress shirt for evening wear, to minimise the harm on pasty-faced guys like me?
Comment by Paul Hardy — May 5, 2009 #
8.
Thank you all for your comments.
Matt, you make a very good point. While black tie is more rule-bound than any other type of dress, and is the one remaining area where a sense of ‘propriety’ could still be said to determine it, not much is said about the practical reasons behind rules.
I will elucidate this in a future post, but broadly the rules are all about creating contrast in texture – patent Oxfords or pumps, for example, create shine that mirrors the lapels and bowtie, where normal Oxfords do not. Equally, the waistcoat/cummerbund is largely a question of being faithful to how the shirt is designed and its practicalities.
Hornett, Bond did indeed rock but I would suggest that was a result of the cut, material and jawline. In a waistcoat he would have looked better.
JT, a shawl collar is perfectly acceptable for black tie. Slightly less formal than a peaked lapel.
Paul, ivory shirts are a nice alternative and can work well. But do bear in mind that the strength of black tie is contrast, and contrast will always be hard for pale complexions. Not much you can do there.
Simon
Comment by Simon Crompton — May 6, 2009 #
I think that due to the modern trend of what we might call “self-definition,” coupled with anti-traditional movements like deconstructionism, we have a generation of people who not only do not know what the rules are, they do not even know that rules exist. For that matter, too many of us moderns fail to understand the myriad benefits of having rules.
For instance, some hyper-ideological academics cook up cockamamie notions like gender being a “societal construct,” and declare that beyond biology, there are no innate differences between males and females. This and other nonsense oozes into the popular consciousness, and leads to, amongst other evils, the destruction of gender-based differences in attire and situationally-appropriate clothing.
Which leads us too poor, misunderstood, much-maligned black tie. Simon summed it up nicely when he wrote that “tradition is the point of black tie.” Now that we are so accustomed to living without rules, we chafe at having to follow them, not understanding that by following the rules, we are actually freer than having to make them up as we go. In the case of black tie, we can simply learn what the rules are, follow them, and always look fantastic, thus freeing us from having to reinvent the wheel–and keeping us safe from sartorial sin.
Simon- Interested in your thoughts on a waistcoat pairing for my upcoming wedding. My tuxedo is single button, peak lapel (grosgrain). My bowtie will be black grosgrain as well. I have flexibility on the shirt style (wing or standard collar) and the waistcoat. Would you recommend a particular style to complement the single button, peak lapel jacket? Would a double breasted waitscoat be out of the question under a single breasted jacket? What about collar type and color (black or white pique)? If you think a particular style of waistcoat would be best, I’d be interested in the style of shirt you’d pair with it as well. Thanks for your thoughts.
Why would peak lapels be inappropriate for a business setting? I thought business was done originally in daytime formal wear (Morning Coats & Strollers). Didn’t those coats have peak lapels?
Downindixie,
You are right that business originally took place in those outfits, but then you’re not going to go to work in tails or a detachable collar are you?
A peak lapel can work fine for business but be aware that it is something a little more aggressive and individual. Don’t wear it with showy socks, braces and handkerchief as well! Balance is the key.
Simon
“Don’t wear it with showy socks, braces and handkerchief “.
Now, this is intriguing. I assume the rationale for not wearing a handkerchief is that a pocket square would be barely noticeable behind a peak lapel (which is commonly wider than a notch lapel) and, also, because it would creat a gap between the jacket and the lapel. Please correct me if I am wrong. Re: showy socks, I always match my socks to the trousers, so no probs here.
But why no braces?
Thank you very much and my apologies for replying to a very, very old post.
Claudio
Not at all Claudio, I love enriching old discussions. They remain great references for readers.
I meant that all three should not be sorry. That you shouldn’t try to go over the top and that black tie is about simplicity. Nothing at all wrong with a nice sharp hank and subtle braces
Thanks for the explaination. Obviously I wouldn’t wear a morning coat to work in this day and age.(LOL)
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Every man who knows anything about fashion knows that you need a black tie in your collection. It is a classic color and works with every color.
I disagree with your comment “The cummerbund was invented in the subcontinent as an alternative to the waistcoat for hot weather. It was originally a sash simply tie around the waist.” My understanding was that it was originally worn in the fields in many countries to support your back. If you look at Fenton’s photographs from the Crimean war(eg http://www.old-picture.com/crimean-war/000/Zouaves-Crimean-Two-War.htm) you’ll zouaves and others (http://www.old-picture.com/crimean-war/000/Montenegrins-Group-of.htm) wearing things around their waists that look like cummerbunds. Quite when it got into black tie I don’t know. But I remember something from the tailor and cutter talking about a craze for them in England one summer in, I think, the 1880’s. Clearly as a summer replacement for a waistcoat they have a lot to recommend them.
Hello. I was wondering if it is alright to wear a cummerbund with a marcella oval bib front shirt; or if it is better to wear a cummerbund with a rectangular bib front shirt? I have an event coming up that I am currently planning for. Thanks
A cummerbund is designed for a rectangular front, usually pleated
Thanks for this.
Hi Simon,
started reading your blog quite a while ago and since it is getting closer to the festive season I would like to buy a black tie outfit.
Can you recommend any brands/ shops in London that are suitable for a tight budget but neverthless offer a good value?
Many thanks already in advance and best
Wolfgang
I’m afraid it’s rather like buying a suit – it’s hard to recommend quality without constantly surveying the product, which I don’t do on RTW or even MTM. Have a look for my How to Spend It piece on how to buy a suit?
Simon,
Some questions regarding the bow tie: Should the material match the facing of the tuxedo itself (e.g., barathea to barathea)? Any recommendations as to bow tie shape (butterfly, pointed ends, large ties, small ties)?
Yes. And it depends on style largely. You want to roughly balance with the size of your head and the size of your lapels, but there is a fairly large margin to play with
Simon,
What’s your recommendation regarding vents on tuxedo jackets? Is a ventless tuxedo jacket standard; are double-vented tuxedo jackets acceptable?
Sorry–an addendum to the previous post: What about turnback cuffs on a tux coat? Too flashy, or just subtle enough to add distinction without screaming for attention?
Ventless is good, but double vents also very acceptable.
Cuffs can be a nice touch, as yes they are pretty subtle.
Simon,
Just curious, but do you prefer grosgrain or silk satin lapel facings? I know that either is acceptable, but my impression is that grosgrain is generally preferable because it’s slightly less flashy, and has nice subtle texture.
Yes, I prefer it and those are largely the reasons
On a similar subject, is it more acceptable to have the revers on one’s waistcoat faced in silk to match the lapels of the jacket, or for them to be self-faced in the same wool as the body of the suit?
Either is fine.
I’m finally getting around to having a dinner jacket made (double-breasted, ventless, turnback cuffs), and would benefit from some advice. As to the cuffs, should they be faced with the same material as the lapels, or the same fabric as the suit? What’s an appropriate cuff depth? Also, should there be a lapel buttonhole on each lapel (as would normally be the case with a double-breasted coat)? Thank you in advance.
Generally, cuffs would be in the same material as the suit. The depth depends on your proportions to a certain extent – arm length etc – so go with what your tailor recommends. And number of buttonholes is a highly personal thing, some people hate having one, others two. With a dinner jacket, I would err towards one as it’s a cleaner look
Hello Simon
I know this is a bit old but it seemed the most appropriate place to comment. I’m planning to wear a velvet wine-coloured jacket and black moleskin trousers to a forthcoming event. It’s black tie, but there’s a fairly laissez faire attitude to that. Firstly, is this choice heretical? Secondly, if not, should I cover the waist band given the more casual approach I’m going for?
Many thanks, and keep up the great blog.
Hi JF,
No worries, no post is too old, nice to keep on filling them out with more information and feedback.
I think you have to gauge how formal the event is, particularly if you’ve ever been before, and I’d imagine that velvet smoking jackets are occasionally worn if it’s not that formal. I might suggest that you try a black worsted trouser, or even linen, however, to avoid both jacket and trousers being too similarly heavy and textured. And yes, in that scenario I would still cover the waist, particularly if wearing a bowtie
Hey Simon, would it be appropriate to wear a black knit tie with brown suede shoes. Assuming the overall ensemble is blue sports coat, white shirt, grey trousers
It could work, yes, though you may find something not quite so harsh, such as a navy or charcoal tie, might work better
Hi Simon,
I purchased by first dinner suit: a black shawl lapel jacket. I plan on wearing a cummerbund. Is it correct form to wear braces with this set-up?
It doesn’t matter whether you do or not HR. You shouldn’t take your jacket off, so no one will see one way or the other. But you might find it easier with the cummerbund
Hi Simon,
I’m in a profession which still occasionally calls for black tie as part of the official ‘uniform’, as it were – that of a musician. I’m due to play my first cruise soon (Spain/Baltics end of July and August) and have been asked to bring a tuxedo. Being a long time reader of your blog, I’ve taken your advice many times when it’s come to day to day clothes (even today ordering the Le Mont Saint Michel work jacket on your spring/summer list and recently Blackhorse Lane Jeans), and one day would love to order a bespoke suit. However, I’m loath for that to be a tuxedo which I may or may not get much use out of.
Appropriate for a ‘black – tie sins’ comment, I was looking for the cheapest ‘correct’ tux I could find, from a brand which is not un-reputable, and immediately thought of Suit Supply and their £569 deal (DB suit/shirt/bow tie/patented leather shoes). I’m sure many readers looking for a wedding tux will have considered them, also. £569 is more than a weeks pay on the ship, however, and I suppose I am asking whether you think that it is a good choice, considering I may only wear it a handful of times (I may hate cruises ha)…or perhaps you think anything not at least made to measure (specifically for a tux) is a bit of a waste of space? I’m utterly reluctant to go super cheap and equally reluctant to go bespoke.
As a side thought, they offer both wool and linen options (black). I assume linen is a no go (the styling on the photos is ridiculous with espadrilles) but then considered that it will be high summer after all so wondered…
Many thanks
Hi James. I think your instincts are right – to find a midway point between bespoke and RTW. The fully RTW end might just annoy you too much.
But perhaps try to get some pieces in this ensemble that you would wear on other occasions. Eg black wool trousers without the side stripe, so they could be worn on their own; a simple white shirt with covered buttons, so again it could be worn with a suit and tie; and don’t get patent shoes, just wear normal black oxfords, perhaps with ribbon laces (see post on that) if you want to jazz it up a bit. That way, the jacket is the only thing you might not wear much.
Does that make sense?
Yes, that makes a lot of sense – many thanks for the advice!
Hi Simon,
I agree that notched lapel dinner jackets or suits are one of the most odious of sartorial philosophical abortions….That said, aside from the shawl lapel as mentioned by one of the other commenters, and the peak lapel which you discussed, why no mention of the fish mouth lapel? That narrow hinterland of unusual design in the made to measure and higher bracket of gentleman’s evening attire?
I am a strong proponent of this variety of lapel for evening wear, chiefly because it is so rare and so unusual. It is like a lazy or sleepy peaked lapel….
Anyway, smashing article. I enjoyed it very much!
I have just recently gifted by best friend his first dinner suit (one of my older ones that I had gotten RTW or off the peg at one of my first jobs), and as I have gotten a bit taller and broader in the chest, he has stayed as waifish as ever, so it worked out! I am thinking that I should also give him my 3rd best cummerbund and perhaps one of my extra black bow ties. I assume that he can work out his own shirt, I am concerned however, as we will be attending a black tie event in Los Angeles in October and he has a regrettable tendency towards hideous shoes…..I have been attempting to encourage him to get dress shoes that are not “eccos” as they are they ugliest things that I’ve ever seen. He is an engineer and a bit of a hypochondriac, and I am considering what arguments to present to him against wearing ecco bicycle toe blucher loafers with black tie aside from the sheer horrific nature of the combination which wouldn’t occur to him. His family does not really involve themselves in such occasions typically….
On the up side, his date should probably be dressed appropriately, at least from the my impression from the time that I have spent with her and them collectively…..
I chiefly want his first black tie event to be pleasantly memorable and for him to look his best for himself, and for his girlfriend, now, and in the future should he look back upon the evening.
Hello Simon.
I have a few questions regarding black tie suits.
So mine is a DB blazer made of a mix of merino wool and mohair. But i have a doubt about shoes. Are black loafers okay ? You do not talk about them in this article. Maybe I should go for black Oxford instead ?
I also have a question regarding the collar of the shirt. With a DB and a bow-tie, is it better to have a wing collar shirt or a turndown? I have seen several people complaining about wing collars shirts at black tie events but I am on your side on this anyway, my question here is more about the DB and the collar, not what type of collar for which occasion.
Thanks a million for your help.
No problem.
You’ll be better off with something that’s more a real slipper or with a black oxford. (Plain, cap toe at most, no broguing)
On the shirt, a wing or a turndown is fine, but a turndown will.alwys be safer, and with a DB (being a fairly casual black tie option) I’d go with a turndown
With regards to a Cream Dinner Jacket:
• What material should the lapels be made of?
• Do I need a cummerbund? If so, what color?
• Should the jacket be vented?
• Peak or Shawl?
• Single or Double Breasted?
Thanks!
– Generally, lapels the same as the body, but it does vary
– If it’s single-breasted, yes. Start simple and have black, so blends into the trousers
– Up to you. Tradition is no vents, but it’s a tiny point. Have vents if you want (I prefer it)
– I like shawl for something like that, but again it’s a question of style and taste, not right or wrong
– Once more, up to you. Single is perhaps a little smarter, but I’d prefer DB as you get more sweep to the lapel. Also means you don’t need the cummerbund
Thanks Simon! Any suggestion as to what type of fabric to use? It’s for my brother’s wedding at a very hot destination.
It’ll be a fine wool probably – I wouldn’t recommend silk. Most of the big mills have an occasions bunch that will have the options
Hello Simon,
I thought I would revive this thread with a question of taste: what would be the ideal bow tie colour/fabric to pair with a midnight blue dinner jacket that has midnight blue grosgrain lapel facings and the matching trouser stripe?
I would normally match the bow tie and lapel facing fabric and colour, but I am concerned that the overall effect will be too muted. I received an interesting suggestion to wear a black satin bow tie instead, in order to provide a bit of sheen and to accent the high polish of black oxford shoes.
Would it be best to stick to blue, experiment with a black grosgrain bow tie, or make a statement with black satin?
Also: In my experience, this blue/blue combination is rare. What are your thoughts on this? For example, have you seen this style executed well? Would you say its relative rarity relegates the style to less-formal occasions (all else being equal)?
Thank you!
-O.
Hi Olivier,
The bow tie should be the same as the facings, so a midnight-blue grosgrain. I wouldn’t worry about anything being too muted – that’s the whole point of black tie. It is very simple, very refined, very elegant. Satin would look out of place.
I have seen midnight blue worn well, but it has to be actually midnight, as in virtually indistinguishable from black – just a slightly richer black. Darker than the darkest navy you’ve seen. Unfortunately, a lot of things described as midnight blue are just blue.
Dear Simon:
Should a tux have the end of the sleeves in the same fabric as the lapel? Is this a classical touch or a modern? In addition should the sleeve’s buttonholes be functional or not?
Thanks
Le Cut
It’s more something that’s applied to velvet jackets, and is rarely seen. I’d generally avoid it – in favour of a turnback cuff at most (and that can easily be removed later).
Any buttonholes should be functional unless one or two are kept closed to help adjustments later.
Hi Simon, does the cummerbund need to cover the marcella-bib par too. the bib on mine doesnt go to the bottom on the shirt.
Generally a cummerbund wouldn’t be worn with a Marcella scoop-front shirt like that. It’s cut more to sit under a waistcoat.
Black ties are trend these days for formal wear dress for men’s in office.
Hi Simon,
Would black braces or white braces be more appropriate for black tie? I know a lot of people will say “it doesn’t matter because they’ll never be seen”, but the reality is at some point after midnight guys generally like to take their jackets and bow ties off and hit the dance floor.
My initial instinct is to go with black braces as the contrast would look better against the white shirt with black studs and black cummerbund, but would be grateful for your thoughts.
Many thanks, as always.
I think it is a small point, but personally I’d go for white or even something like grey. Black could be a touch harsh. Also, they wouldn’t be seen even if you took your jacket off, if you were wearing a waistcoat too. Remember to cover the waist with something!
Thanks, Simon. I’ll go for white. And don’t worry, I’ll have a cummerbund to cover the waist!
Nice